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Few frames are perfectly square, so use a framing square to survey the corners. Note whether a cor­ner is greater or less than 90°, and vary your cuts accordingly when you fine-tune the corner joints. Note, too, whether the floor is level, because side casing usually rests on the floor. First, rough cut the casing. […]

Details on stripping trim, prep work, stains, dear finishes, and paints are given in Chapter 18. Here’s a handful of additional tips: ► Most trim stock comes smooth enough to paint or stain. If you find rough spots, sand them with 120-grit to 180-grit sandpaper before finishing. If molding has only a few rough spots, […]

COMMON, CHEMICAL NAME(S) PROS CONS BRANDS White carpenter’s, Polyvinyl acetate Moderate strength; inexpensive Runny; poor initial tack; clogs sandpaper Elmer’s® Glue-All® Yellow carpenter’s, polyvinyl acetate Strong; good initial tack; sands well Titebond® Original Polyurethane Bonds to most materials; sands well; takes stain; fills gaps; water resistant Glue expansion can spread joints not tightly clamped; slow […]

The older a house, the less likely its floors and ceilings will be level. So don’t make yourself crazy trying to level baseboards and crown molding: You won’t succeed, and trim that’s level next to a surface that isn’t will only emphasize the discrepancy. Interior trim, like politics, is an art of compromise. Trim edges […]

Tight trim joints require accurate layouts, sharp saws, and consistent methods. Recuts are a fact of life. If you’re filling and painting trim, slight gaps are acceptable. But if you’re using a clear finish, joints must be tight. Before you start cutting trim, always check the accuracy of power-saw miter-stop settings by cut­ting a few […]

If you want a cost-effective, easily worked material for plain-profile trim, MDF (medium-density fiberboard) is hard to beat. And you can add visual interest by installing cove, bullnose, quarter — round or other simple molding along MDF’s plain edges. Advantages. MDF cuts and shapes beautifully. For smooth edge cuts, use a 60-tooth 10-in. blade. Because […]

Trim materials include custom-milled hard­woods; softwood boards, molding, and stock caps; MDF (medium-density fiberboard); and polymer moldings that replicate detailed histori­cal styles in lightweight, easy-to-install sections. CHOOSING TRIM Because trim is costly (especially hardwood trim), buy it from a local shop that mills its own. That way, you’ll be more likely to get trim that […]

Because most trim is light, it is usually nailed up with finish nails, which have slimmer shanks and smaller heads than other nails. Trim-head screws (shown in the photo on p. 90) are often specified when molding is heavy or complex or when trim pieces will be subject to twisting or flexing, as happens with […]

Whenever possible, hold a trim piece in place and use a pencil or a utility knife to mark the cut-line. This is usually more accurate than transferring tape-measure readings. Tape measures are frequently used to measure trim longer than 6 ft. Check your tape measure to be sure that the hook at the tape end […]

After framing and wires, insulating, and hanging drywall, it’s time to install interior trim. Somewhat like a picture frame, trim is decorative. But it’s also functional, concealing gaps and rough edges where walls meet floors, ceilings, doors, and windows. Although finish carpentry is not as fundamental as structural framing or foundation work, it com­pletes the […]