Category Framing

Bearing Walls

Three 16d nails or 3" x.131" nails into each joist.

If wall sits on a rim joist or blocking, place third nail at center of joist space and nail into rim or block.

Nonbearing Walls

One 16d nail into each joist or two 3" x.131" into each joist.

Nail Bearing & Nonbearing Walls to Floor Parallel to Joists

Bearing Walls

Three 16d nails or 3" x.131" nails per stud into each joist. If wall rests on a rim joist or blocking, place third nail at center of joist space and nail into rim or block.

Nail Header to Stud

4 x 8 or 6 x 8 Header
4 x 10 or 6 x 10 Header

Nail Double Plate to Top Plate

One 16d nail at 16" O. C, (on center) or one 3" x,131" nail at 12" O. C, Stagger nails,

Four 16d common nails or six 3" x,131" nails each side of splice in top and double plate,

Nail over studs to allow plumber’s and electrician’s drills to pass freely through the place between the studs

Two 3” x,131" nails at 16” O. C. may be substituted to prevent interference,

Nail Walls Together or Nail Double Studs

Five 16d (3 1/2" x,135") nails or twelve 3" x,131" nails into studs, Start 6" from top and bottom,

Note: A 16d (3 1/2" x,135") nail will protrude 1/2" beyond a doubled 2x, This sharp nail point can be a hazard, Nail at slight angle to prevent protrusion,

Nail Trimmer to Stud

If you are framing every day, the nailing patterns in this chapter will soon become second nature.

For the part-time framer, they can serve as a quick reference.

Building codes and generally accepted practices were followed in developing the nailing patterns in this chapter. When the plans call for other nailing patterns, however, be sure to follow them.

You will notice in this chapter that there are different nails specified for the same nailing. There are many different styles of nails. The five most frequently used categories are:

• Common nails

• Box nails

• Sinker nails

• Gun nails

• Positive placement nails

You will see a 3” x.131” nail specified frequently. This nail is the most common P-nail, or pneumatic gun nail, used.

The common nails are listed because they are typically specified by building codes. Most of the tests that are done to determine the strength needed use common nails. Box nails and sinker nails are listed because they are easier to nail, and less likely to split the wood. They are also commonly found at nail suppliers. The gun nails are listed because nail guns are used most often. Positive placement nails are made specially for nailing on hardware. They only work in positive placement nail guns.

Please note that common nails are listed with “common" written after the size. If the nail size has “common" after it, you can only use common nails. If it does not, you can use either common, box, or sinker nails.

The International Residential Code (IRC) is similar to the International Building Code (IBC) except it only covers one – and two-family dwellings. The patterns in this chapter are based on the 2009 IBC, which, in some cases, requires larger nails than the 2009 IRC.

Nail Top Plate to Studs

The treating of wood in recent years has gone through some major changes. The most important thing to know is that there are different types of preservative treatment and that some of the treatments require specially coated fasteners to prevent corrosion.

A little history will help in understanding. For years the predominate chemical for preserving dimension lumber had been chromated copper arsenate (CCA). However, health concerns arose because of the arsenic content in CCA, and in 2004 the Environmental Protection Agency (EPA) required labels on CCA, which had the effect of disallowing the use of CCA-treated wood for most residential uses.

The first commonly used substitutes were copper azole (CA) and alkaline copper quaternary (ACQ). These eliminated the arsenic but created a different problem because they were corrosive to steel fasteners. To solve this problem, hardware manufacturers began making their common fasteners with a galvanized coating. For example, if you see a Simpson Strong-Tie hardware labeled Z-max you know it has been coated so that it can be used with CA and ACQ. Steel nails also had to be coated when used with lumber treated with CA or ACQ. Typically they are galvanized. Stainless steel is a better substitute for hardware and nails because it is less corrosive, but it is expensive.

Sodium Borate (SBX) preservative treatment is another substitute for CCA that does not have the problem of causing corrosion of steel fasteners, however it will wash out of the lumber with liquid exposure. It is specified for use above ground and continuously protected from liquid water.

New products are continually being developed. Carbon based compounds are among these and could prove to be less corrosive and natural in color.

The 2009 IBC & IRC code states that preservative treated wood should be in accordance with AWPA U1 (American Wood Protection Association Use Category System) for the species, product, preservative, and end use. The lumber tag attached to the treated wood will give the use category to assist you in making sure you are using the correctly treated wood.

All the different labels and chemicals can be confusing. Most importantly, make sure that you are using the right treatment for the task at hand and that you are using corrosive resistant fasteners where necessary. To check the correct use of treated lumber, read the tag attached to the lumber or ask the lumber supplier. For CA or ACQ treatment, you will need corrosion-resistant fasteners; for SBX or other borate treatments, you will not need corrosion-resistant fasteners. Beyond that, check on the fastener boxes for specifications or ask the lumber or fastener supplier.

Moisture and warmth will promote decay of most woods. To prevent decay, naturally durable woods or preservative-treated wood must be used when the wood is exposed to moisture.

Decay-resistant woods include redwood, cedar, black locust, and black walnut. Preservative-treated wood is treated according to certain industrial specifications. Preservative-treated wood is most commonly used because of its availability.

Preservative-treated or naturally durable woods should be used in the following locations:

1. On concrete foundation walls that are less than 8" from exposed earth.

2. On concrete or masonry slabs that are in direct contact with earth.

3. Where wood is attached directly to the interior of exterior masonry or concrete walls below grade.

4. For floor joists if they are closer than 18" to the exposed ground.

5. For floor girders if they are closer than 12" to the exposed ground.

Exterior wall

8" or less

When pressure treated lumber is cut on the job site, apply treatment to the end by soaking or brushing

Protecting Lumber from Decay (continued)

Framing on a concrete slab

Stud

If you’re a professional framer, organizing your tools helps keep them in good condition and helps you find them when you need them— saving valuable time on the job.

Lumber

Saw blade

Check to make sure tape ‘ end is not bent and that it moves on the end rivets.

Saw upside – down

Accuracy in measuring, marking, and cutting lumber is a very important framing skill to master. Periodic checks should be made of the condition of tape measures and the squareness of saw tables and blades.

A typical saw blade removes a channel of wood approximately 1/8" wide, called a kerf. This must be taken into consideration when you make a cut.

Suppose you want to cut a board 25" long. Measure and make a mark at 25", then square a line through
the mark with a square. The work piece— the 25" piece you want to use—will be to the left of the line; the waste piece will be to the right. Guide your saw along the right edge of the line so the kerf is made in the waste piece. If your cut is perfectly made, the work piece will be left showing exactly half the width of your pencil line, and will measure exactly 25". Thus, the old carpenter’s saying: “Leave the line."

Lumber is sized in “nominal," as opposed to number. For example, a piece of lumber that actually

“actual," dimensions. A nominal dimension rounds measures 1%”x 3%" is rounded off to the nominal off the actual dimension to the next highest whole 2” x 4”.

The engineered panel products on this wall provide the strength needed for the high ceiling of this elementary school

Dens Glass® gypsum sheathing is a brand that has fiberglass mat, which provides mold and moisture resistance and is gold in color.

Engineered wood products can be divided into two categories: engineered panel products and engineered lumber products. Engineered panel products include plywood, oriented strand board (OSB), waferboard, composite, and structural particleboard. Engineered lumber products include I-joists, glu-lam beams, LVLs (laminated veneer lumber), PSLs (parallel strand lumber), and LSLs (laminated strand lumber).

Engineered wood products have structural qualities different than those of traditional wood, so they must be used within the specification set by the manufacturer. When these products are specified on the plans, the architect or engineer who specified them will have checked with the structural engineer to ensure proper use.

Engineered panel products have been around for years and are treated in a

Engineered Panel

Stagger (optional)

Leave space at all panel edge joints and У space at all panel end joints unless otherwise recommended by panel manufacturer.

2x joists, plywood-webbed I-joists or floor trusses.

APA rated sheathing

manner similar to engineered wood products. The 4′ x 8′ typical sheets are strongest in the direction of the grain. For floors and roofs, these sheets should be laid perpendicular to the direction of the supporting members. The strength of the panels comes from the panel cantilevering over the supports—so each piece should be at least as long as two support members.

Glu-lam beams, LVLs, PSLs, and LSLs can be cut to length, but should not be drilled or notched without checking with manufacturers’ specifications.

I-joists are becoming more widely used. Although the Engineered Wood Association has a standard for I-joists, not all I-joists manufacturers subscribe to that standard. Consequently, it is important to follow the manufacturer’s instructions whenever using I-joists. Installation instructions are usually delivered with the load for each job. The illustration shows some of the typical instructions.

Certain features are common among all I-joists. Rim and blocking may be of I-joist or solid rim board. Typical widths are 9%", 11 7/8 ", 14", 16", and 20".

Web stiffeners are used to add to the strength at bearing points. If the bearing point is at the bottom flange, then the web stiffener, which is the thickness of the flange on one side of the web, is held tight to the bottom. There should be at least a 1/8" space between the top flange and the web stiffener. If the bearing point is at the top flange, then the web stiffener is held tight to the top with at least 1/8" between the bottom flange and the web stiffener.

Silent Floor* joist framing does not require

Rim board joint between joists

Safety bracing (1×4 minimum) placed at

Common construction details for engineered lumber joists.

ІЛ. 0 0 ~W 0 0 . – Я-0 Tf, , -0 . S* ^ -0 section view of 1-joist. iJlease note tne components of the joist (darker colors) and the web stiffener (lighter color). Fasteners are shown in black.

Squash blocks are pieces of lumber installed alongside TJI’s at points of heavy loading. They prevent the weight from crushing the TJI. They are typically dimensional lumber like 2 x 4s or 2 x 6s. They should be cut 1/іб" longer than the I-joist to take the load off the I-joists.

I-joists typically require a Ш" bearing. You can cut the end of an I-joist as long as it is not cut beyond a line straight up from the end of the bearing. However, no cuts should extend beyond a vertical line drawn from the end of the bearing point.

I-joist hardware, such as hangers, is usually delivered with the I-joist package. However, standard I-joist hardware can be purchased separately.

Check to-e

coWirtoS,

V

2 x 4 minimum squash blocks (Illustrations courtesy of iLevel by Weyerhaeuser)

Squash blocks should be 1/16" greater than the I – joist height.

Lumber

Framing Grade Use Light framing Construction Plates 2 x 2 thru 4 x 4 Standard & better Sills Utility Studs over 10′ Stud Stud Studs 2 x 2 thru 4 x 6 10′ or less Cripples Structural framing Select structural Joists No.1 Rafters No. 2 Headers No. 3 Posts Beams

Images of grade stamps courtesy of APA, The Engineered Wood Association and WWPA, the Western Wood Products Assocoiation