Blog Archives

STEP 6 INSTALL THE SIDING PANELS

Posted by on 20/ 11/ 15

Thanks to the work you did in the previous step, panel installation can go quickly, especially when you have a good-size crew, as we did on this job. The first panel course is always the bottom-most course. Start against the corner on one side of the house (preferably the back corner). Pull up the first panel, snap it into the starter strip, and slide the end of the panel under the corner trim’s top edge. Keep the panel seated in the starter strip as you drive nails into each stud. The nail heads should be Мб in. proud of the flange. Don’t drive nails at the edge of a slot or through the vinyl itself. If the prepunched slot is not centered over a stud, lengthen the slot with a utility knife or a slot-punch tool.

STEP 6 INSTALL THE SIDING PANELSПодпись: Trim around a door. J-channel trim is nailed around the window and door frames, with a tab in the top piece bent to fit around the corner.Подпись: The work goes quickly. With a Habitat-size crew, this siding job moves along at a good pace. Short offcuts from one side of the house can often be used elsewhere to minimize waste. Once the panel is nailed in position, check whether you can slide it bac...

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Median Barrier End Treatments

Posted by on 20/ 11/ 15

Median barriers, similar to roadside barriers, should be introduced and terminated with safety in mind. Openings or breaks in barriers should be kept to a minimum to negate the need for end treatments. Where openings are required, shield barrier ends or, if the median

SGM04a (with non­steel blocks)

Подпись: AASHTO Designation: SGM04a SGM04b Test Level: TL-2 TL-3 Post Type: W6x 9 8 in x 8 in timber* Post Spacing: 6 ft-3 in 6 ft-3 in Beam Type: Two steel W-sections Two steel W-sections Offset Brackets: Two W6 x 9 Two routed 8 in x 8 in x 14 in timber or plastic Nominal Barrier Height: 27 in 27 in Maximum Dynamic Deflection: Approximately 2 ft Approximately 2 ft

Подпись: SGM06a Подпись: SGM04a
Median Barrier End Treatments

TL-3 W6x9 6ft-3 in Two steel W – sections

Two 6 in x 8 in x 14 in timber or plastic 27 in

Подпись: SGM06a TL-3 W6x9 6 ft-3 in Two steel W- sections Two routed 6 in x 8 in x 14 in timber or plastic 30 in Approximately 2 ft Подпись: SGM06b TL-3 6 in x 8 in timber* 6 ft-3 in Two steel W-sections Two routed 6 in x 8 in x 14 in timber or plastic 30 in Approximately 2 ft
Подпись: AASHTO Designation: Test Level: Post Type: Post Spacing: Beam Type: Offset Brackets: Nominal Barrier Height: Maximum Dynamic Deflection:

Approximately 2 ft

Remarks: These systems are semirigid and are satisfactory for use in narrow medians. After typical impacts, the system remains serviceable. Some states use a W-section as a rubrail, centered at 10 in above grade. This modification is appropriate for both the SGM06a and b, and a higher SGM04a and b...

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Raising the walls

Posted by on 20/ 11/ 15

Like barn raisings of old, it often takes a few warm bodies to raise a framed, unsheathed wall. For raising sheathed walls, it takes even more people or a wall jack. For your safety, don’t try either job solo. And, as always, start with a clear deck.

With the first wall assembled, align the bottom plate with the chalkline on the floor if it hasn’t already been toenailed in position. To keep the wall from slip­ping over the outside edge while it’s being raised, nail pieces of 2x stock to the rim joist so that they stick up above the floor a few inches to catch and hold the bottom plate (see the photo at right). On a slab, bolts hold the bottom plate in place; otherwise, the bottom plate is toenailed to the deck.

To lift up an unsheathed wall, stick the claws of your hammer into the double ...

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TOOLS FOR VINYL SIDING

Posted by on 20/ 11/ 15

TOOLS FOR VINYL SIDINGA long, flat work surface is essential for vinyl siding and sheet-metal work. A couple of 2×12 boards on sawhorses work fine. For precise 90- degree-angle cuts and angled rake cuts, I suggest making a cutting jig for a circular saw (see the bottom center photo).The jig, which sits on a long worktable, is essentially a wooden cradle that guides the base of the circular saw. The cradle can be positioned at a right angle, or at other angles, to the siding.

Use both right – and left-handed aviation snips to make straight and curved cutouts (see the center right photo); tinsnips are also helpful...

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Characteristics of Median Barriers

Posted by on 20/ 11/ 15

Like roadside barriers, median barriers can be classified as flexible, semirigid, or rigid as indicated in Table 6.7. Figures 6.26 through 6.35 show details of these various types of median barriers and factors to be considered in selection and application. Additional comments on several of the systems follow. In many of their characteristics they are similar to their roadside barrier counterparts.

Typical three-strand cable systems (Fig. 6.26) should be used only if there is ade­quate deflection distance, about 12 ft (3.5 m) in each direction. Performance is sensi­tive to mounting height. Proper end anchorage is critical. They are not well suited for areas hit frequently, on sharp curves, and on facilities with high truck volumes.

Characteristics of Median Barriers

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Variable transformation method

Posted by on 20/ 11/ 15

The variable transformation method generates a random variate of interest based on its known statistical relationship with other random variables the variates of which can be produced easily. For example, one is interested in generating chi-square random variates with n degrees of freedom. The CDF – inverse method is not appropriate in this case because the chi-square CDF is not analytically expressible. However, knowing the fact that the sum of n squared independent standard normal random variables gives a chi-square random variable with n degrees of freedom (see Sec. 2.6.6), one could generate chi-square random variates from first producing n standard normal random variates, then squaring them, and finally adding them together...

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An Overview of Plumbing Systems

Posted by on 20/ 11/ 15

A plumbing system is a loop of sorts, created by supply (or delivery) pipes that carry potable water to the house and its fixtures and by drainage, waste, and venting (DWV) pipes that carry waste water, effluvia, and sewage gases away from the fixtures—sinks, toilets, lavatories, washing machines, and so on.

These two systems within a system are quite different from each other. DWV pipes are larger and must slope downward so wastes can fall freely (by gravity) and sewage gases can rise through vents. Consequently, large DWV pipes can be difficult to route through framing. By con­trast, smaller water-supply pipes are easy to run through studs and joists, and they deliver water under pressure, so there’s no need to slope them.

THE WATER SUPPLY

The pipe that delivers water to a house (from...

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Simple flashing details

Posted by on 20/ 11/ 15

Whether or not you wrap the house, it’s important to flash around the window and door openings. Especially with windows, proper flashing can prevent the water that runs down both sides of the window from entering the wall cavity through the sill area. To flash window and door openings, I gener­ally use б-in.- to 8-in.-wide strips of felt paper, installing the strips as shown in the illustration on the facing page. Don’t forget to install the top piece of flashing after the win­dow has been set in its opening. If housewrap

Подпись: FLASHING A WINDOWПодпись: 2. Attach the side pieces to overlap the bottom piece.Подпись: 1. Fasten the bottom flashing along the rough sill.Simple flashing detailsПодпись: 4. Install the top flashing over the window flange and side flashing.Подпись: 3. Install the window.Simple flashing detailsПодпись: Cut flashing strips 6 in. to 8 in. wide from good-quality builder's felt. Secure flashing with staples or Уг-іп. roofing nails.is used, you can still install a top piece of flashing. Cut a horizontal slit in the house – wrap above the window, then slip the top edge of the top flashing piece into the slit.

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Plumbing

Posted by on 20/ 11/ 15

Подпись: щПодпись: other Nature knows a thing or two about plumbing. larger midrib of this leaf is a naturally occurring trunk line, with smaller veins branching off to supply the leaf.image528

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Builders have benefited greatly from

the standardization of building materials, and nowhere is this more true than in plumbing. Whereas a plumber once had to fashion waste systems from cast iron, oakum, and melted lead, today one needs little more than plastic pipe and solvent-based cement. Such improved technology enables more people to understand, repair, and install plumbing. Would-be plumbers should do two things:

► Learn the vocabulary. Some people feel intimidated by the plethora of plumbing terms, especially fitting names. But there’s actually a logic to all those names, once you learn what a part does and why it is shaped as it is. Besides, you’ll get better service from plumbing-supply clerks if you can speak their language.

► Consult local plumbing codes before begi...

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Starter strips

Posted by on 20/ 11/ 15

The installation of vinyl siding begins with different trim elements: starter strips, inside corners, outside corners, J-channel, and so on. The various trim details are designed to hide or interlock with siding ends and edges. As with other homebuilding phases, if you get started right, the next steps follow more smoothly. The critical first step is to put on a straight and level
starter strip right above the top of the concrete foundation wall or slab (see the photo above). This strip can usually be installed by nailing through the sheathing and into the bottom of the mudsill or sole plate. The strip’s bot­tom edge can then extend about 1 in. over the concrete.

With a house that is covered with housewrap, it is not always easy to see where to nail the starter strip...

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