Category Framing

Normal backer layout has the layout marks for a backer aligned with the position of the wall that will be nailed into the backer. This isn’t always the case, however. Sometimes it is better to move the backer so it does not line up. For example, you might have a door next to the backer, with only 21/г" between the backer and the rough opening of the door. Instead of having a Ш" trimmer and a 1" king stud, you just attach a Ш" trimmer to the backer and move it over У2".

The best way to mark this on the wall layout is to mark both positions of the backer. The first position is where the backer would align with the wall, and the second is where the backer was moved and where it will be nailed. A good way to distinguish the two positions is to mark over the one line with a carpenter’s crayon (keel or lumber crayon). This layout information will help when the walls are nailed together. It will also help when you are cutting the double plate of the joining wall to overlap. (See “Backer Move” illustration.

Special Stud Layouts

It is important to be aware of special stud layouts, such as might be required for shower or bathtub center valves. Showers and tubs are typically 30" wide. Space must be allowed in the middle for the valves. It’s usually easy to find the center and then set a stud 8" on center each way. (See “Plumbing Studs” illustration.)

Recessed medicine cabinets are another special layout. If they require a 141/2" rough opening, they could fit between standard 16" O. C. spaces. More often than not, however, the design requires installation in a particular location that requires special layout.

Backing for Siding

Different types of siding require different types of backing. For example, bevel siding with a wide window will require an extra stud or extra backing along the window to attach the siding.

Structural Support

Often a beam or girder truss, or some other structural member, requires structural support all the way to the foundation, but that support is not shown on the plans. Check and lay out for upper floor structure support when laying out walls.

Location Marks

Another mark you might need to make on your walls is for location. If you have to move the plates to make room to build walls, then you need to mark the location for all the walls to make sure you know where they go when you are ready to build them.

It is best to use a crayon and mark a number and an arrow on each plate. The top and bottom plates will be marked with the same number. The arrows will point in the same direction as all the other walls that run in that direction. In addition to marking the plates, mark the number and the arrow on the floor next to the plates. (See “Plate location marks" photo.)

If you are laying out walls on a concrete slab, then you will have to contend with plumbing and electrical pipes. Before you start your layout, notch the bottom plate to fit.

Some walls will have studs of different lengths. Examples are rake walls or walls where the concrete is not level, and the studs are cut to compensate.

In such cases, you will want to write the stud lengths on the plate next to the studs.

Cripples

The cripples to be framed over and under the windows and doors will be laid out on the same layout as the studs. You will mark them with a line and a "C," and indicate their lengths on the plates— for example, C-25V21′. Mark the cripple height for the cripples that go below the window on the bottom plate, and the cripple height for the cripples that go above the window or door on the top plate.

Blocking

Many kinds of blocks are installed in walls. Some common blocks are fire blocks, medicine cabinet blocks, cabinet blocks, stair rail blocking, curtain rod blocking, and wainscot blocking. The hardest part of laying out for these blocks is getting the right information so you can figure out their location.

You might as well find this information before you build the wall, since it is easier and more efficient to install the blocks as you build the walls than afterwards.

Hold-down as pattern

Two basic types of blocks are installed in walls. One is a horizontal block that fills the whole stud space as a fire block does. The other is a vertical block that is flush with one side of the wall. (See “Vertical and Horizontal Blocks" illustration.)

The vertical block is more often used for backing to provide a greater area for attaching fixtures. To position a block in the wall, you need to know if the block is vertical or horizontal, the height of the block, and the size. This information is written with a “B" first, indicating blocking, and then either a “V" or an “H," indicating a vertical or horizontal position. The height is then written following the

V or H, indicating the center height of the block from the subfloor sheathing or the concrete. If the block is vertical you will need to write “U" or “D" indicating up or down, showing which side of the wall the block will be on. If the block is the same width as the studs in the wall, then that is all the information that is necessary. However, if the block is a different width than the wall, then the size of the block should be written before the “B."

If there are a number of blocks in a row, as is the case with fire blocking, you can just mark one stud space and (with a carpenter crayon) draw a line in both directions to indicate the extent of the blocking.

Hold-Down, Continuous

Bearing plate

Studs

Solid blocking —Floor joist

Each building has unique characteristics that require special attention. Hold-downs, shear walls, blocking, backing, special stud heights, and posts are some of the more common miscellaneous framing items. The framing language for these framing items is not well-defined because the operations frequently change and the same ones are not always used. The Miscellaneous Layout

Language Chart on the next page gives you an idea of how these framing tasks can be communicated.

Hold-Downs

Hold-downs are probably the most difficult to mark correctly. They vary from location to location and require different studs or posts for connecting.

Vv

Top plate tacked to bottom plate hanging over edge of concrete for layout

Offset backer

Crayon marked

There are also different types of hold-downs, and each manufacturer has its own identification system. There are, however, four basic styles of hold-downs that you need to show in your wall layout.

1. Basic hold-down: bolts, nails, or screws to the hold-down post or studs. This type is typically attached to an anchor bolt in the foundation or bolted to an all-thread rod that is connected to a hold-down in the wall below. (See “Hold­Downs with Floor Between" illustration.)

2. Hold-down already embedded in the concrete, which needs only to be attached to the wall. (See “Hold-Down in Concrete" illustration.)

3. Strap used to connect the top of one wall to the bottom of the wall above. (See “Strap Wall to Wall" illustration.)

4. Hold-down that is continuous between all floors from the foundation to the top floor. (See “Hold-Down, Continuous" illustration.)

The difficulty in laying out for hold-downs is knowing what to write on the plates so that the requirement will be easily understood. The best thing to do is to explain to all framers at the beginning of each job what symbols you are using to indicate hold-downs. Use the same language when possible at different jobs. The most common symbol for hold-downs is HD, followed by the number representing the size of the hold-down—for example, HD2 or HD5.

When you are laying out for hold-downs, it’s important to get the layout in the right location. Since the purpose of a hold-down is to connect the building to the foundation, the hold-downs must

line up with the anchor bolt in the foundation below them. Hold-downs are typically found at the end of shear walls. Engineers sometimes position hold-downs attached to posts at the ends of walls or within a specific distance from the ends of walls. If that information is not specified, keep the hold-down as close to the end of the wall as possible. If the hold-down anchor bolt is already in the concrete, then you can only position it in two locations—one on either side of the hold-down anchor bolt. (See “Hold-Down Either Direction" illustration.)

If the epoxy system is specified for installing the anchor bolts later, you have more options. A good rule of thumb is to keep the hold-down within one

foot of the end of the wall. However, the shorter the wall, the closer the hold-down should be to the ends of the wall.

When laying out for a hold-down, you want the studs or post to be in the correct position in relation to the anchor bolt or hold-down in the wall.

A good way to make sure the distance from the studs to the anchor bolt is correct is to use one of your hold-downs to mark the pattern and location of the studs or post. (See “Hold-Down as Pattern" photo.) If you do not have a hold-down available for this purpose, you can use the manufacturer’s hardware catalog to find the distance from the anchor bolt to the studs.

When you are laying out for the hold-downs on an upper floor, it is helpful to mark the location of the hole to be drilled in the plate and the floor. You have to locate the hole anyway to lay out the studs. By marking its location, you are saving someone else from having to locate it again. It is easiest to go ahead and drill the holes through the floor then, before the walls are built. These holes can be oversized to make alignment easier.

Shear Walls

Shear walls have unique characteristics, but the most common information a framer needs to know about them is the type of sheathing, the edge nail spacing, and the nail spacing for nailing of the bottom plate. This information can usually be found in a shear wall schedule in the plans. The sheathing used is typically either plywood or OSB, commonly identified as "W," or gypsum, identified as "G." The edge nailing is designated as a number after the W

or G, and the floor nailing as a number before the W or G. An example could be "6W4," meaning that the bottom plate is nailed at 6” on center, the sheathing is plywood, and the edge nailing is 4” on center. The language for shear walls can be written on the plates with the other language, but it is best to also write it on the top of the bottom plate. That way, when you get around to nailing the wall down, the nailing pattern will still be visible.

Pull layout so that sheathing will break in the middle of a joist/stud. Hook tape on the outside edge of rim joist/plate. Pull and locate 16" on tape, then measure back half the thickness of joist/stud (%" for 2x stock) and mark. This puts the layout mark on 15W. Make an X on the correct side of the layout mark to show the location of the joist/stud.

Continue marking in this way for each subsequent 16" space, thus: 3Ш", 47W, 63W, etc. Finish by drawing square lines through the mark.

The reason for subtracting the %" is that the 4′ x 8′ sheathing will be installed from the outside edge of the rim joist/plate, not from the center.

16" O. C. 16" O. C. 16" O. C. 16" O. C,

15У4" , 3Ш" , 47%" , 63%

4′ x 8′ Sheathing

Rim joist/plate

LAYOUT

Layout is the written language of the framer. If the lead framer on the job “writes" clearly, then the framers reading the layout will be able to understand and properly perform the work. It’s important to include enough information in the layout so that there aren’t any questions. Layout language has been developed by framers over the years, and there are some variations. The version described in this book is quite typical. Feel free to make any changes that reflect practices in your area. If you need to explain something about the layout that isn’t shown in this chapter, either write it out on the plates in plain language, or explain it to the person who will do the framing.

Layout for framing requires bringing together the desires of the owner, the written instructions of the architect and engineer, instructions from the builder and/or superintendent, and materials from the supplier-then writing these instructions on job-site lumber in a legible manner so that the framers can build the walls, floors, and roofs without continuous interpretation. This chapter describes this process and explains the written words and symbols the lead framer uses.

The approach you use will depend on the size of the job, the area of the country you are working in and, most of all, the style of the person who taught you framing layout. This chapter presents a common style of layout, with some variations. Any style you use is good, as long as the framers can read and understand it, and you have provided all the information they need to frame the building completely.

Wall plates positioned vertically for layout

Wall Layout

On many jobs, the basic skeleton of the walls is built, and then the blocking, hold-downs, and miscellaneous framing are filled in as a later operation. There are some disadvantages to installing miscellaneous framing after the basic framing. For example, you may have to notch around wires and pipes. You may even have to come back and set up a separate operation after you have already left the job site. This chapter describes a system that includes everything possible in the layout, so the walls can be framed, complete, all at one time. To do this takes organization and pre-planning, which includes gathering all the information you need before you do the layout.

The positioning of the top plate and bottom plate for layout detailing is a variable that depends on personal preference and the type of operations.

The plate can be positioned vertically so that the Ш" width is on top, which makes it easy for marking on the plate. The plate can also be laid flat (horizontally) on top of the chalk lines so that the plates are in the same position as when the walls are standing. This system makes it easy to keep the walls in the proper position, particularly when you have angled walls. A third option (for some exterior walls
only) is to position the bottom plate where it will be once the wall is standing, then tack the top plate to it, hanging over the side. This system works well if you want to attach the bottom plate to the floor and then stick-frame the wall.

The layout language varies, but all layout styles are similar. The chart on page 138 shows the basic layout language. Page 144 shows additional language. Although the parts of the walls are typically the same in different areas of the country, quite often they are referred to by different names. For example, a backer is also known as a channel or partition. Even the term “layout" can have different meanings. Sometimes layout is understood to be the total process of chalking the lines for the wall locations (snapping), cutting the plates, and writing the layout language on the plates (detailing). It is not important what terms are used, as long as there is clear communication.

Wall layout is the process of taking the information given on the plans and writing enough instructions, in layout language, on the top and bottom plates so the framer can build the wall without asking any questions.

Following is some general information that must be considered before starting. Unless otherwise noted, all layout discussions will assume 2 x 4 studs at 16”

O. C. (on center).

Where possible, we want joists, studs, and rafters to rest directly over each other.

Before layout is started, establish reference points in the building for measuring both directions of layout and use those points for joist, stud, and rafter/truss layout throughout the building.

Check the building plans for a special joist plan or rafter/truss plans indicating layout.

Select a reference point which allows you to lay out in as long and straight a line as possible, and which ensures that a maximum number of rafters/trusses are directly supported by studs.

Wall Layout Steps

1. Spread the top plate and bottom plate together in chalk lines. If a plate is not long enough, cut the top plate to break on the middle of the stud and four feet away from walls running into it.

2. Place plates in position with chalk lines.

3. Lay out for backers from chalk lines.

4. Lay out stud trimmers and cripples for windows and doors.

5. Lay out studs.

Chalking Lines

“Chalking lines" is the process of marking on the subfloor where the walls are to be placed. Red chalk makes a permanent line and is easily seen. Blue chalk can be erased and is good to use if the lines might have to be changed. Using different colors allows you to distinguish between old and new lines.

Before chalking, when possible, check foundation and floor for square. Walls must be square, plumb, and level. If necessary, adjust your chalk lines accordingly.

Measurements for chalk lines are derived from wall dimensions as given in the plans. If the plans show finished walls, be sure to subtract the appropriate amount to get your framing measurements.

Draw lines from points A & B to the point where the bisecting line intersects the circumference (at point C) creating half lines.

2. Draw line from the radius origin to the circumference (at point D) passing through the mid point of the half line.

Stair wall lines Two established points Radius origin

3. Draw quarter lines by drawing lines from points B and C to point D.

4. Continue dividing lines in half until all tread widths are found.

Circular stairs are not as difficult as they seem the first time you think about doing them. They do, however, take some planning and careful work. There is no one way that curved stairs need to be built, as long as they are strong enough to bear the traffic. The method that follows is commonly used.

First of all, unlike straight stairs, we will not use stringers. Instead, each tread will be supported independently, by either a wall or a header. The header method allows for space to be usable under the stairs. The system outlined here uses a header to create what are called tread walls.

• It is not uncommon for a set of plans to be drawn up with the stair headroom less than the 6′-8" that the code requires. To check the headroom before you frame the stairs, you need to find the point that is plumb, down from the lowest point above the stairs, and then measure to the line in a plane with the nosing of your stair treads.

• Since the stairs are not built yet, the hardest part is finding that nosing plane. You can either work off the plans, if framing has not started, or work with the framing if the frame is ready for the stairs. To find this plumb point on the nosing plane, start from the first nosing, count the number of risers, and multiply that number by the riser height; then add the partial riser.

• To get the partial riser height, you just multiply the partial tread length by the riser percent, which is the riser height, divided by the tread length. Once you have found this length, you can measure either up or down, depending on which direction you used, to see if you have enough headroom.

8 Steps for Building Circular Stairs

1) Find Riser Height

To get started, you first need to find your riser height. Quite often it is given on the plans, in which case you want to check it to make sure it works with the actual floor heights. If the height is not given on the plans, consider the following points when figuring the riser height.

• As with straight stairs, you want the steps to feel comfortable, so remember:

— Make sure all risers are equal, so the stairs
will not cause people to trip and fall.

Drawing the circumference lines

— The lower the riser, the longer the tread needs to be to feel comfortable.

• Common dimensions for riser and tread on straight stairs are 7" for the riser, and 10%" for the tread.

• For circular stairs, the tread width varies, so it is more difficult to figure the riser and tread dimensions.

• The comfortable range for circular stairs is harder to determine than the range for straight stairs because of the varying tread width.

The code for residential buildings requires a minimum of 6" at the narrow end and 11" at a point 12" out from the narrow end. For other buildings, the code requires a minimum of 10" at the narrow end and 11" at a point 12" out from the narrow end. Because most of the length of the tread is greater than 11", the rise will typically feel more comfortable if it is less than it would be for a comparable straight stair.

2) Mark the Circumference Lines

With the rise figured out and the number of treads known, you can start marking your circumference lines. The best way to start is by making the stair footprint on the floor in the position where the stairs are going to be built. If the plans show a radius dimension and location, then you can use the plans to locate the radius center point. To make your circumference lines (which represent your stairs and the walls on the sides of the stairs), set a nail part­way at the located radius center point. Then hook your tape to the nail and mark your circumference lines by swinging your tape around the nail and holding your pencil on the required dimension.

(See photo.) Most tape measures have a slot in the hooking end for a nail head. (See illustration later in this section.)

If the radius or the radius center point is not given, you will need to find it. You can vary the radius length, but make sure you can maintain the following four requirements:

• 6" minimum tread width at the narrow end of the tread (10" in non-residential).

• 11" tread width at a point 12" in from the narrow end.

• A minimum stair width of 36" in the clear to finish.

• In non-residential buildings, the smaller radius should not be less than twice the width of the stairway.

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End of tape hooked to a partially set nail

The first thing you need to do to find your radius is to establish two points on the circumference opposite each other. They can be any two points. Look on the plans for points that are already established. If there are no established points, then select points that fit with the location of the stairs. Once you have established two points, it is merely a matter of bisecting the line between these points, finding the radius origin, and drawing your circumference lines from the radius origin. (See the “Bisecting a Line to Establish the Radius Origin" illustration.)

3) Marking the Tread on the Footprint

Now that you have your circumference lines, you need your tread lines. Since you have figured your riser height, you know the number of treads that you will have. Knowing the number of treads, you can find the exact tread point along your stair circumference. To do this, divide the stair circumference in half, and then divide those halves in half again and again until you are down to single treads. (See “Divide Circumference for Treads" illustration.)

If your stair has an uneven number of treads, then you have to subtract one tread before you begin dividing into halves. To subtract one tread, you first have to know the width. The width will be equal to the total stair circumference length divided by the number of treads.

It is difficult to measure the stair circumference, and so your one tread will probably not be exact. Therefore, when you are done marking all the other treads, re-mark the tread you measured first.

Once you have all your division points for the treads, then chalk lines from the radius center point through the division points to the longest circumference line, and those lines will make your tread footprint. (See “Tread Footprint" illustration.)

4) Cut Bottom Plate

The bottom plate of the tread walls will not be parallel to the top plate, as it would be in a straight stair. The bottom plate will follow the circumference and serve as the bottom plate for all the tread walls. A good way to make the bottom plate is to use two pieces of %” plywood. If the radius is not too small, you can cut the plywood with a circular saw. To mark on the plywood, set a nail anywhere and mark the plywood with a pencil and a tape measure. Use the dimensions from the stair footprint to get the radius length.

5) Nail Bottom Plate in Place

To build the stairs, start by nailing the bottom plates in place. (See “Bottom Plate Nailed in Place" illustration.)

6) Build the Tread Walls

The walls supporting the treads will be built as header walls. Built this way, they will provide the riser and allow space for storage below the stairs.

The wall will consist of a 2 x 12 single header that will serve as the riser, a top plate, a double plate, trimmers for under the 2 x 12 header, and king studs next to the trimmer. A ledger to support the tread below will be nailed onto the header. (See “Section of Tread Wall from End" illustration.)

Each tread wall should be higher than the one below it by the riser height. The height of the first step will have to be figured separately to equal one riser height, adjusted for any difference in floor covering. The top step might also have to be adjusted for a difference in floor height.

7) Install the Tread Walls

Nail the tread walls in place using the footprint lines. The bottom of the studs will be toenailed into the bottom plate already in place. (See “Tread Walls Nailed in Place" illustration.)

8) Cut and Nail Treads

The treads should all be the same. They will be nailed onto the top of the tread walls and the ledgers. An equal nosing should be maintained the full length of the tread. Make sure the walls stay plumb both ways. Glue each tread to prevent squeaks. (See “Treads Halfway Up Stairs" illustration.)

Adapt these guidelines for use when plans do not give details.

2 x 12 Stair tread:

1. Router nosing with V2" round router bit.

2. Glue and nail three 16d nails on each stringer for single residence use.

3. Glue and nail four 16d nails on each stringer for multi-residence use.

• Two stringers for single residence use, 36" or less width (depending on tread and riser material).

• Three stringers for multi-residence use, or treads larger than 36" (depending on tread and riser material).

Recap of Key Stair Guidelines

The following are important items to go over to make sure you end up with a good set of stairs:

• Check the code maximum and minimum widths, depths, and heights.

• Remember to review the floor finish on the top, the bottom, and any midway decks for different thickness in the finish floor material. For example, if there is going to be lightweight concrete on the floor sheathing, or if a carpet stair ends on a concrete slab, then the last tread height would have to be adjusted. It

is important to stay within the 3/8" height variance (specified in the codes) between all the risers.

• If you have a midway deck in the stairs, make sure you check the height. Figure the height and measure from the top or bottom of the stairs, and then check by figuring the height and measuring from the opposite of top or bottom. If you figured right, your marks should align.

If the riser and tread dimensions are not given on the plans, then you need to calculate them. To do this you should consider the following points:

• You want the steps to feel comfortable.

— When walking up steps, a person’s mind determines the height of the riser based on the first step. Make sure all risers and treads are equal, so the stairs will not cause people to fall.

— The lower the riser, the longer the tread needs to be to feel comfortable.

• Common dimensions for riser and tread are 7" rise and 10%" tread.

• Use the following three rules to check to see if your stair dimensions are in the comfortable range.

— Rule 1: Two risers and one tread added

should equal 24" to 25".

— Rule 2: One riser and one tread added

should equal 17" to 18".

— Rule 3: Multiply one riser by one tread and

the result should equal 71" to 75".

Important Stair Code Regulations

The following guidelines for stairs are according to the 2006 International Residential Code (IRC) and 2006 International Building Code (IBC)

Width – 36" minimum – with occupant load of

49 or less (measured in clear, to finish).

44" minimum – with occupant load of

50 or more (measured in clear, to finish).

Rise – 4" minimum.

7%" maximum for IRC – 7" for IBC, with residential 7%".

Tread – 10" minimum for IRC – 11" for IBC.

Riser height and tread length variance –

3/8" maximum variation between the treads within any flight of stairs.

Headroom – 6′-8" minimum, measured vertically from a line created by connecting the nosing of the stair treads to the soffit above.

Check for headroom by finding the distance vertically between two lines that represent the distance between the stair treads and any obstruction in the headroom. One line is a straight line that connects the nosing on the stairs. The second line is one that runs parallel with the first line but 6′-8" in a vertical direction above the first line.

To create the stair noising line, first measure up the height of one riser and back from the riser the distance of the noising and make a mark. From that mark, measure parallel to the subfloor a distance equal to the combined width of the number of treads. Then measure perpendicular to the subfloor
the combined height of the number of risers and make a second mark. Chalk a line between these two marks. From this line, make the second line that is parallel and yet a minimum of 6′-8" vertically. This is your headroom and if anything protrudes into this space you do not have minimum headroom. Remember this distance is to the finish, and so if you are putting carpet or drywall on then you need to allow for their thickness.

Measure treads and risers using framing square.

Subtract thickness of riser from top.

Notch bottom for ledger or top plate. Notches differ. (See illustrations in this and following section.)

Care must be taken when marking the top and bottom steps. The thickness of the stair tread and the type of finish flooring on both the tread and the floor must be considered so that all the risers will be the same.

5. For the top tread, be sure to figure in the riser so that the treads and nosings are all equal.

Doors and windows are two of the few finish items that framers sometimes handle. It is important that time and care are taken to ensure they are installed in a proper, professional manner. Put your framing hammer in the toolbox and use, instead, a lighter, smoother-faced trim hammer and a nail set.

Exterior, pre-hung doors are the type covered in this chapter. They are the ones framers most commonly work with, and most of the skills involved in hanging them will carry over to the hanging of interior doors. The first door you hang on any job will give you the most difficulty. If you have more than one door to hang, do them one after the other; each door will go in a little easier than the one before.

Nail-flange windows and sliding glass doors will vary depending on the manufacturer. You will find here the basic principles of their installation. Use common sense and follow the directions provided, and you should have little trouble installing these units.

Stairs represent one of the more difficult challenges to a framer’s skill. As in roof framing, the geometry is a bit complicated, but taken step-by-step, the logic

soon becomes clear, leading to successful execution of the plans. There are many different stair designs. The stair layouts described in this chapter are typical. Be aware that the dimensions given on the plans do not always allow for enough headroom. Always check headroom and other dimensions by taking accurate on-site measurements. This chapter also contains instructions for laying out and framing circular stairs.

The instructions for installation of pre-hung doors, windows, sliding glass doors, straight stairs, and circular stairs are all presented in steps for easier understanding. A calculator is handy-some might say necessary-for finding the rise and tread dimensions when not given on the plans. Always double – or triple-check your calculations. Remember: measure twice, cut once. The finish floors at the top and bottom of stairs are often different. When cutting stair stringers, don’t forget to check the plans for such differences and then check the height of your top and bottom risers to allow for them.

One 16d galvanized casing nail at each hinge. Hinge

DO NOT SET NAILS

Door

View of door looking down from the top

АОЛ

Steps for Installation

1. READ INSTRUCTIONS

• Usually there are instructions that come with the door. Check the instructions over for anything you might need to know.

2. CHECK PLANS

• Check the building plans to find the direction of the door swing.

3. CHECK THE THRESHOLD

• Check the threshold for level. Shim under hinge jamb if necessary.

4. NAIL HINGE JAMB

• Nail hinge jamb tight to trimmer with one 16d galvanized casing nail at each hinge. Do not set nails. Plumb both directions. Shim behind jamb if necessary to obtain plumb or if door needs to be centered in opening.

Install window flashing. (See the following section.)

Set window in place.

Place temporary shims under bottom of window. Equalize space at top and bottom of window. Shims are usually 1/b" to W. Level windowsill.

Make gaps the same between window frame and trimmer on each side.

Nail top corners from outside.

Nail one bottom corner. (Do not set all the way.)

Place window slider in and check to see if the gap between the window slider and window frame is the same from top to bottom.

View From Inside

Header

8. If the gap is not equal, check both the rough opening and the window for square, and adjust accordingly.

9. Finish nailing. Make sure gap is equal top, bottom, and middle. (Do not nail top of the window.)

Minimum nailing:

Two nails on each side and one in the bottom. Increase the number of nails for larger windows. Use 8d nails.

Header flashing needs to be applied when weather-resistant barrier (house wrap) and siding are applied.

2. Attach 9" wide flashing at each jamb. Start flashing 8V2" above rough opening at header. Extend below and over flashing at sill. Do not attach where it extends over sill flashing.

Moisture penetration in buildings can cause rot in the structure. New and more extensive exterior rain protective systems have been developed and used to combat this problem. Some of these systems use a special type of water resistant barrier and self-adhesive flashing. Another system is the rainscreen. It provides a whole second layer of protection, typically by installing furring strips over the initial water – resistive barrier and then an outside siding material attached to the furring strips. These furring strips allow for ventilation and pressure equalization. These systems have not been standardized yet and so it is important to follow the specifications as outlined on the plans.

1. READ INSTRUCTIONS.

Read and follow carefully the instructions that come with the door. Never assume what you do not know.

2. SEAL THRESHOLD.

Use neoprene or similar sealing compound to seal the threshold.

3. INSTALL FLASHING.

The jamb flashing with sealer is installed using a method similar to the jamb flashing on windows.

4. PLACE DOOR.

Place the door in position.

5. CENTER TOP.

Center the top of the door in rough opening.

6. NAIL TOP CORNERS.

Nail each corner of the top of the door through nail flange. (Do not set nails.)

7. ADJUST DOOR.

Adjust the door frame so that the space between the door frame and wall trimmers is equal. Check for plumb with a level and adjust if necessary.

8. COMPLETE NAILING.

Close the door and latch it. Then nail off the sides using four 8d nails on each side. Do not nail top of door.

9. ADJUST DOOR.

Adjust the slider part of the door if necessary. Usually there is an adjustment screw at the bottom of the door. Tighten this screw to close a gap between the door and the jamb at the top of the door, or loosen to increase the gap.

10. TIGHTEN SCREWS.

If screws come with the door, shim and tighten screws in the sides and bottom. Use pre-drilled holes.

The three main dimensions in stair building are for risers, treads, and headroom. The riser height and the tread width are usually given on the plans. You can generally use the tread width given on the plans. The riser height, however, is often not accurate enough to use.

Stair Installation Steps

1. MEASURE HEIGHT.

Measure the height of the stairwell from finish floor to finish floor.

2. FIND RISER HEIGHT.

Divide the height of the stairwell by the number of risers shown on the plan to determine the riser height. Be careful to consider the finish floor heights, which may differ top and bottom.

3. FIND TREAD WIDTH.

Check plans for tread width.

4. CHECK HEADROOM.

Chalk a line from edge of nosing at top of stairs to edge of nosing at bottom of stairs. (See “Checking Stair Headroom" later in this chapter.) Check for minimum clearance of 6′-8" to finish straight up from line to bottom of headroom.

5. MARK AND CUT STRINGERS.

(See “Marking Stair Stringers" later in this chapter.")

6. CUT.

Cut stringer spacers, treads, and risers.

7. NAIL STRINGER SPACER.

Nail stringer spacer to stringer. Spacer leaves clearance for applying wall finish.

8. SET STRINGERS.

a. At top deck, measure down riser height plus tread thickness and mark for top of stringer.

b. Set stringers to mark.

c. Check stringers for level by placing a tread on top and bottom and checking level, side to side, and front to back.

d. Adjust stringers for level.

e. Nail stringers.

9. NAIL RISERS.

10. GLUE AND NAIL TREADS.