Category A Healthy. House

Further Reading and Services

Biointegral Resource Center (BIRC), PO Box 7414, Berkeley, CA 94707,510-524-2567. Useful source of information on pesticides and alternative pest treatments.

Moses, Marion. Designer Poisons: How to Protect Your Health and Home from Toxic Pesticides. Pes­ticide Education Center, 1995. A sobering expose of specific pesticides and the chronic health ef­fects that can result from their use, with useful information on safer alternatives.

National Coalition Against Misuse of Pesticides, 701 E. Street SE, Suite 200, Washington, DC 20003, 202-543-5450, info@beyondpesticides. org. Pro­vides useful information about pesticides and nontoxic alternatives.

Northwest Coalition for Alternatives to Pesti­cides (NCAP), PO Box 1393, Eugene, OR 97440, 541-344-5044, pesticide. org. Provides a compre­hensive information service on the hazards of pesticides and alternatives to their use. Main­tains an extensive library of over 8,000 articles, government documents, videos, and other refer­ence materials, and offers information packets, fact sheets, and the quarterly Journal of Pesticide Reform.

Olkowski, William et al. Common Sense Pest Con­trol: Least-Toxic Solutions for Your Home, Gar­

den, Pets, and Community. Taunton Press, 1991. Comprehensive, well-documented information on integrated pest management and least-toxic control for all kinds of pests.

Schultz, Warren. The Chemical-Free Lawn: The New­est Varieties and Techniques to Grow Lush, Hardy Grass. Rodale Press, 1989. Techniques for grow­ing lush and hardy grass without using pesti­cides, herbicides, or chemical fertilizers.

Chart 10.1: Common Pests and Management Strategies

Pest

Types of damage

Modus operandi

Recommendations

Termites

(subterranean)

• Structural damage

•Tunnels created in wood

• Require moist condi­tions

* Termites must be able to get from the soil into the wood structure via earthen tubes; they do not live in wood

• Control moisture

• Seal off wood from ground contact

• Use termite shielding, sand barriers, and/or termite-resistant sill plates

Termites (dry wood)

* Structural damage

•Tunnels created in wood

* Can access house through walls

• Live in wood

•Tight construction

• Caulked joints

• Boric acid in framing

Rats

• Carry disease

• Destroy food supply

• Breed quickly

• Require hole V2" wide to enter

• Screen all points of entry, including openings along pipes and wires

• Make home weathertight

• Ground floors should be elevated 18" above grade

• Subterranean concrete floors should have a mini­mum thickness of 2"

• Use wire mesh under wood floors

• Use noncombustible cement stops between floor joists

Mice

• Chew through electri­cal wires, causing fire hazard

•Transmit pathogens

• Breed quickly

• Require dime – size openings

• Feed on dry foods, grains, clothing, paper

• Usually seek indoor habitat when outdoor climatic conditions become severe

• Seal all holes and crevices, especially where pipes and wires protrude through surfaces

Chart 10.1: Common Pests and Management Strategies (corn’d.)

Pest

Types of damage

Modus operandi

Recommendations

Ants

(carpenter)

• Create nests inside walls and ceilings, under siding, and where wood and soil are in contact near foundations

• Infest both hardwood and softwood

* Require wood with high moisture content (minimum 15%)

• Use kiln – or air-dried lumber and keep it dry

■ Prevent contact between structural wood and earth

• Allow for proper ventilation of damp areas

Bees

(carpenter)

• Chew on wood

• Burrow into structural members and exposed wood elements

• Enjoy untreated ex­posed wood (especially softwoods)

• Paint or varnish exposed wood (sills, trim, etc.)

• Fill in holes and indentations in wood

Beetles

(wood-boring)

• Bore through wood

• Require moisture con­tent in wood to be 10 to 20%

• Prevent moisture changes and temperature fluctuations

• Allow for good ventilation in attic spaces

• Keep roof frame and sheathing dry

• Use air – or kiln-dried lumber

• Seal wood

Cockroaches

• Invade food storage areas such as kitchens and cupboards ■ Can carry disease-caus­ing organisms

• Most species prefer warm, moist areas

• Avoid moisture and decayed organic buildup in or near home

• Use boric acid in framing in areas prone to infes­tation

• Use screens on vents and windows

Fungus (wood decay)

• Attacks and weak­ens wood, leaving it susceptible to invasion by wood-boring and wood-eating insects

■ Grows best at tempera­tures between 50 and 95 degrees F • Requires a minimum of 20% moisture

• Allow for proper roof insulation

and ventilation to prevent condensation

• Seal wood joints at corners, edges, and intersec­tions

• Prevent moisture accumulation near pipes, vents, and ducts

• Do not use wood containing mold in construction

• Seal all wood exposed to the elements

• Use proper ventilation strategies

to control moisture buildup generated by human activity

• Use building products and procedures that al­low moisture vapor to escape rather than being trapped

Specialties

Integrated Pest Management

All creatures have their rightful place in na­ture. However, for most this place is not within the walls of human habitations and hence the need for humans to exercise pest control. While many pest control companies advo­cate regular prophylactic spraying of homes with toxic chemicals, this approach can have devastating consequences for the health of all living beings, including the occupants of the home. Although pests are effectively elimi­nated, they eventually return because the un­derlying structural problems that created the conditions inviting to them have not been ad­dressed.

Integrated pest management (IPM) offers a holistic approach to controlling pests. IPM differs from standard pest management in that the emphasis is on prevention and on the least toxic methods of pest control. The goal is to work effectively with nature to alter condi­tions without harming the environment. IPM precepts can be summarized as follows:

• Accurate identification of a pest is neces­sary so that its modus operandi may be understood and incorporated into a pest management plan.

• Careful consideration is given to whether any action at all is required. Entomophobia (fear of insects) is rampant in our culture. For many, the first reaction upon seeing an insect is to kill it. Pesticide commercials persuade us that panic and lightning speed action are necessary. In contrast, IPM en­courages an attitude of tolerance to crea­tures that do no harm. It also encourages rational determination of when interven­tion will be necessary.

• If a pest must be eliminated, the first step is to see if its current access to nourishment and habitat can be limited. In the case of ants, for example, this might mean clean­ing up crumbs from the floor and counters and caulking cracks.

• If a pest must be trapped or killed, the most environmentally benign methods

are considered first. Least toxic chemicals are employed as a last resort.

• If a chemical must be used, then toxicity, risk, and exposure must be carefully evalu­ated. (Refer to Northwest Coalition for Al­ternatives to Pesticides, listed at the end of this chapter, for fact sheets on the various pesticides.)

• Careful observation and record keeping are an essential part of an integrated pest management program.

In new home construction you have the op­portunity and responsibility to prevent in­festations before they occur. An integrated approach to pest management in new con­struction would include the following:

• identification of potential pests found in the building site area

• research on identified pests, including eat­ing habits, reproductive cycles, habitat, and common routes of entry into the home

• use of construction strategies that will cre­ate inhospitable and inaccessible condi­tions for pests

In general, a well-constructed home will also be pest resistant, incorporating the following features:

• weathertightness

• appropriate grading and drainage

• provisions for the prevention of excess moisture buildup from within, including extraction fans and windows that allow cross-ventilation

• selection of dry wood without rot or infes­tation for use in construction

• appropriate treatment of exterior wood for prevailing climatic conditions

• screening of all openings such as basement and soffit vents

• removal of all ground cover, leaves, chip and wood piles, and other potential insect habitats from around the building

Throughout the book we have specified tech­niques for the prevention of pests where ap­propriate. If you are building in an area with a particularly difficult pest problem, you may need to take measures beyond the scope of this book. For example, if your home is near a shipyard or a row of poorly constructed grain elevators, you may wish to incorporate more rat control techniques into your construction than would generally be specified. We heart­ily recommend Common Sense Pest Control by William Olkowski et al. (listed at the end of this chapter) as a comprehensive guide to spe­cific pest problems. The following chart pro­vides an overview of major household pests and construction techniques that discourage them.

ЕРА Takes a "Stand" on the Carpet Controversy

In October 1987, the EPA installed carpet at its headquarters in the Waterside Mall in Washington, DC. A total of 1,141 complaints were received re­garding adverse health effects related to the new carpet.3 These complaints included decreased short-term memory, loss of concentration, confu­sion, anxiety, headaches, joint and muscle pains, rashes, digestive disorders, reproductive abnor­malities, asthma, insomnia, chronic fatigue, and multiple chemical sensitivities. Dozens of workers remained permanently disabled. After the EPA in­vestigated these carpet complaints from its head­quarters building, it published a report showing a positive correlation between the EPA worker com­plaints and the new carpet.6

Despite the results of its own study, and the removal of 27,000 square yards of carpet from the headquarters building in 1989, the EPA published a public information brochure that stated, "Lim­ited research to date has found no links between adverse health effects and the levels of chemicals emitted by new carpet."c

Several different adhesives for carpeting (refer to manufacturer)

• Envirotec Health Guard Seaming Tapes: Several different seaming tapes for carpet­ing (refer to manufacturer)

• Hendricksen Naturlich Manufacturer’s Adhesive

Carpet Treatment

Tire following carpet treatment will help re­move pesticides, formaldehyde, and other chemicals from the carpeting and pad and will seal in chemicals to prevent outgassing: AFM SafeChoice Carpet Shampoo, AFM

EPA’s Director of Health and Safety told the Washington Times that "the freshly manufactured carpet clearly caused the initial illness." Within a few weeks of making that statement he was re­moved from his job. EPA management expressed concern that testing and regulation of carpet emissions could potentially cost the carpet indus­try billions of dollars.6

Discussion

The Consumer Product Safety Commission (CPSC) has received hundreds of complaints about carpets causing respiratory and neurological problems.6 Toxic emissions from carpets include fumes from formaldehyde, benzene, xylene, tolu­ene, butadiene, styrene, and 4-phenylcyclohexene (4PC). These chemicals can potentially cause can­cer, birth defects, reproductive disorders, respira­tory problems, and neurological damage such as anxiety, depression, inability to concentrate, con­fusion, short-term memory loss, and seizures. In spite of overwhelming evidence to the contrary,

SafeChoice Carpet Seal, and AFM Safe – Choice Lock-Out. Follow the manufactur­ers instructions. Test a small sample of carpet with these products for shrinkage and color fastness prior to full application.

The treatment is not suitable for carpets with a large wool or cotton content because the wet application can cause shrinkage.

Wet-Applied Finish Materials

Paints, stains, and sealers are all wet-applied finish materials that will have a significant im­pact on indoor air quality as they are drying.

the carpet industry has consistently denied ad­verse health effects of carpeting.

In 1992, in response to public concern, the carpet industry announced its GreenTag program, which has lured consumers into a false sense of safety. The program tests only a small sampling of carpets once a year. The testing is based only on volatile organic compound emissions, not biologi­cal health effects/ In fact, some carpets from the Green Tag program tested at the Anderson Labs have caused death to the mice exposed to their fumes.9

a. Bill Hirzy. "Chronology: EPA and Its Profession­als: Union Involvement with Carpet." 1992. Cited in "Carpet: Trouble Underfoot." Informed Consent. November/December 1993,p. 31.

b. US Environmental Protection Agency. "Indoor Air Quality and New Carpet: What You Should Know." EPA/560/2-91/003. US Government Print­ing Office, March 1992.

c. Bill Hirzy."Chronology: EPA and Its Professionals:

Once thoroughly cured, they will no longer release VOCs. While some materials will have very low odor and/or will dry almost instantly, others may be odorous for months. Because of the large surface area that these materials cover, their impact can be significant and they must be carefully chosen. Consider the fol­lowing:

і. Performance: A product that is more du­rable will not need to be reapplied as often. A product that is more odorous initially but has time to completely cure during the construction period may well be worth considering if it is more durable than the

Union Involvement with Carpet." 1992. Cited in "Carpet:Trouble Underfoot Unformed Consent. No­vember/December 1993, p. 31.

d. Susan E. Womble. "Evaluation of Complaints Associated with the Installation of New Carpet." Memorandum, Consumer Products Safety Com­mission (CPSC) Chemical Hazards Program, Au­gust 13,1990.

e. Ibid.

f. Carpet and Rug Institute. "Carpet Industry Pro­gram Steps Out Front on Indoor Air Quality: Label­ing for Consumers Now Underway." Press release, July 17,1992.

g. Anderson Laboratories."Carpet Off-gassing and Lethal Effects on Mice." Press release, August 18, 1992.

alternatives. However, adequate ventila­tion for the construction team during the curing period must be included in this strategy.

2. Application Procedure: Manufacturers in­structions must be strictly followed. If applications are not sufficiently dried be­tween coatings, they may remain tacky and odorous indefinitely. This same problem can occur if underlying joint compounds or plasters are not sufficiently cured.

3. Construction Protocol: Good ventilation during the application of wet products will not only speed drying time but will also (along with the use of recommended safety gear) help assure the well-being of the construction team. Furthermore, good ventilation at the time of application will reduce the impact of these odors on po­rous materials that can acquire odor eas­ily Planning for and specifying a flush-out period at the end of all construction is a good way to allow outgassing prior to oc­cupancy. Where weather permits, fans can be used with open windows to speed this process. Air filters and ventilation equip­ment may help during inclement weather.

4. Factory applied finishes: Some materials come with an optional factory-applied prefinish. Wood, bamboo and cork floor­ing, and ceramic tiles are some examples of materials that are commonly offered prefinished or unfinished. Factories often have facilities for safely and fully curing the finishes before the products are shipped out. These factory-applied finishes are of­ten more durable than the lower-VOC finishes that would be suitable for onsite application. Prior to approving a factory – applied finish it is prudent to have a dated sample sent to you to examine along with an MSDS. On occasion, samples may still have persistent odors or the MSDS may re­veal the use of unacceptable toxins.

Paints

Because paints cover such large surface areas, careful selection is crucial. Paints are com­monly a source of indoor air pollution. Cer­tain paints and coatings, on the other hand, can improve indoor air quality by sealing out odors in subsurfaces so that they do not out – gas into the living space.

All paints and wet-applied coatings have

three major components: pigment, binder, and carrier, also known as the vehicle. Water – based (latex) paints use water as the carrier whereas oil-based (alkyd) paints use a variety of much more volatile solvents as the carrier. In the past, oil-based paints were considered to be more enduring than latex paints. How­ever, with recent improvements in latex paint technology, oil-based paints can be entirely eliminated from residential construction. Among the thousands of latex paints avail­able, there is a wide range of volatility, toxicity, and performance. Since the previous edition of this book was published, many more low – to zero-VOC water-based paints have become available from commercial manufacturers. In addition, some of the original commercial ‘en­vironmental paint” products have been refor­mulated for higher performance in the areas of hide ability, wearability, and scrubability.

Low VOC is not the only measure of a paints effect on human health. Both synthetic binders and various additives can cause neg­ative reactions for some people, and paints often contain substances that are environmen­tally undesirable. Finding out about the pres­ence of these ingredients can be challenging. Additives such as biocides are often proprie­tary or are present in such small amounts that they are not required to be listed on an MSDS.

Several independent nonprofit organiza­tions have arisen internationally to set envi­ronmental standards for consumer products. Green Seal is a US-based organization that has created evaluation standards for architec­tural coatings that have low-VOC emissions and exclude five heavy metals and 21 toxic or­ganic compounds. The commercially avail­able paints listed below have, according to the manufacturers, met these Green Seal criteria.

A more extensive list can be obtained through Green Seal.

Individuals with chemical sensitivities should test paints to determine the best choice for them. Our experience has shown that sen­sitivities vary and that none of the paints has a perfect track record with everyone. In some cases, paints with acrylic rather than vinyl or vinyl acrylic binders have been better toler­ated. Below are several low – to zero-VOC con­tent paints that you may wish to consider for your project.

Commercially Available Interior Zero – and Low-VOC Paints from Conventional Manufacturers

Following are widely distributed low emission paints. Please note that the product names shown in bold type are the paint line being recommended for each manufacturer. These manufacturers also make paint lines that we do not recommend.

• Air Care Odorless: Solvent-free eggshell and flat by Coronado Paints

• American Pride 100 Line: Green Seal cer­tified zero-VOC paints by Southern Di­versified Products

• E Coat and Enviro-Cote: Paints by Kelly – Mo ore

• Enviro-Pure: Green Seal certified zero – VOC paints by M. A. Bruder & Sons

• Genesis Odor Free: Paints by Duron

• Harmony: Paints by Sherwin Williams

• Lifemaster 2000: Paints by ICI Dulux/ Glidden

• Premium Interior Paint Zero VOC:

Green Seal certified zero-VOC paints by Olympic

• Pristine Eco Spec: Green Seal certified paints by Benjamin Moore

• Yolo Colorhouse: Green Seal certified zero-VOC interior paints by Yolo Color – house.

• Z-coat (59-Line): Green Seal certified zero – VOC interior paints by General Paint

Specially Formulated Paints from Alternative Manufacturers

Although generally more expensive, the fol­lowing paints have been specially formulated and often better meet the needs of chemically sensitive individuals:

• AFM SafeCoat Enamel Low VOC and Safecoat Zero VOC: Formulated with propylene glycol instead of ethylene glycol and free of ammonia, acetone, formalde­hyde, and masking agents

• Ecological: Odorless, formaldehyde-free, water-based terpolymer paint

• Enviro Safe: No fungicides, low-biocide, and custom mixed to order

• Miller Aero: Specify low-biocide, no­fungicide

• Murco GF1000 and Murco LE1000: No

fungicides and only “in-can” preserva­tives that enhance shelf life but become en­tombed in the dry paint

Paints Derived from Natural Sources The following paints, which are derived from natural sources, contain few or no petrochem­ically derived ingredients and maybe more en­vironmentally sound choices. Some may not be suitable for the chemically sensitive. Prod­ucts that contain d-limonene may have vapors that are more toxic than those of petroleum distillates or turpentine and should be used with proper ventilation.1 They are often harder to work with, but when skillfully used can ren­der a more lively wall surface:

• AGLAIA Natural Paints: Plant-based nat­ural paint products, free of petrochemicals and artificial resins

• Auro Natural Paints: Made exclusively from natural sources by Sinan Co., with efforts made to support ecological diver­sity

• BioShield Clay Paint #12: Zero-VOC paint made from naturally occurring clays

• BioShield Solvent Free Wall Paint and BioShield Casein Milk Paint: Very low VOCs, made from natural or minimally toxic synthetic materials

• Green Planet Paints: Zero-VOC clay – based paints utilizing soy resin and min­eral pigments

• Livos Naturals: Low-toxic paints, all in­gredients listed on label, many organically grown; both water – and oil-based products available

• Milk Paint: Made from milk protein, lime, earth pigments, and clay, petrochemical – free, biodegradable, nontoxic, odorless when dry; not recommended for damp lo­cations because it is susceptible to mildew. Milk paint can sour in liquid form. Comes in powder form in 16 colors (see Clear Coat as recommended topcoat).

• Minerva Finishes: Line of all-natural lime-based paints for interior and exterior applications (refer to product literature for specific application and use)

• Sinan Company: Several natural water – based and casein-based paints (refer to Resource List for various products)

Vapor Retardant Paints

The following paints are vapor retarders that can be used to block unwanted outgassing from vapors found in a material:

• 86001 Seal: A clear, water-reducible primer sealer and vapor retarder

• AFM Safecoat New Wallboard Prime – coat HPV: Specially formulated to cover the uneven porosity of new gypsum board and other surfaces with a high recycled content

• AFM Safecoat Transitional Primer: For

use on various previously treated surfaces; seals and reduces outgassing

• BIN Primer Sealer: A white pigmented shellac sealer used as an undercoat/primer/ sealer, free of biocides, effectively seals in odors from drywall, and should be used in a well-ventilated space since the alcohol base is strong smelling during application (available through most paint and hard­ware stores)

Stains and Transparent Finishes

Many standard sealers for wood are solvent – based and contain several highly toxic chem­icals that outgas for long periods after applica­tion. Several more healthful water-based products are now available. Since water-based products tend to raise the grain on wood or absorb unevenly, many installers who are inexperienced with their use have been disap­pointed with the results. We have found sev­eral good installers who have overcome their initial reluctance and now insist on using less – toxic, water-based products, knowing that in doing so they are safeguarding themselves, their employees, and their clients. Natural, more healthful oils, lacquers, shellacs, and waxes are also available.

Clear-Seal Water-Reducible Wood Finishes

• AFM Safecoat AcriGlaze: Clear mixing medium and finish, ideal for restoring old finishes, sealing, and preserving painted work

• AFM Safecoat Hard Seal: Used in con­junction with AFM Safecoat Lock-In New Wood Sealer

• AgriStain: Bio-based interior and exterior stain for metal, wood, gypsum, and cement

• Aqua-Zar: Water-based nonyellowing

polyurethane in satin or gloss finish

• Clear Coat: Nontoxic acrylic coating for use over painted and wood surfaces; may be used in conjunction with Extra-Bond, which will promote adhesion on surfaces other than bare wood

• Hydrocote Hydroshield Plus: Water – based polyurethane for interior and exte­rior use

• Zip-Guard Environmental Wood Finish:

Clear finish for interior woodwork (the same company makes a product called Zip-Guard, which is solvent based)

Natural Oil, Lacquer, and Shellac Wood Finishes

• AFM Naturals Clear Penetrating Oil:

Plant-based sealer for interior and exterior wood applications

• AFM Naturals Oil Wax Finish: Plant – based hardener and sealer for unfinished wood, bamboo, and cork

• Auro No. 123 Natural Finishing Oil: Oil primer, sealer, and protective treatment

• Auro No. 143 Organic Linseed Oil Finish: Interior and exterior penetrating, protec­tive, and conditioning treatment for wood

• Auro No. 251 Clear-Coat Paint Glossy: Oil-based transparent finishing lacquer for use on indoor surfaces; can be tinted

• BioShield Primer Oil #1: An oil-based sealer that creates an elastic and breathable grain-enhancing prime coat for priming and sealing hardwoods and softwoods

• BioShield Resin Floor Finish #4: Breath­able and elastic finish that will create depth and dimension in flooring substrates of all types

• BioShield Penetrating Sealer #5: Crafted from linseed oil, plants, and other less haz­ardous materials, a high-solids primer that excels at sealing cork, dry and absorbent woods, slate, stone, and brick

• BioShield Hard Oil #9: Specially rec­ommended for high-moisture and high- traffic areas, this is one of the most durable low-VOC oils suitable for hard and soft­wood floors

• Block Oil: Natural finish for any wooden food preparation surface; may be used to treat any unsealed interior wood surface

• Sinan Company No. 143 Linseed Oil: Or­ganically grown, for plain oiled-rubbed finish

• Sinan Company No. 251 Natural Clear Varnish, Clear, Glossy: Clear, Glossy #251 or Clear, Satin #261 varnish with good covering qualities for indoor wood use only

• Sinan Company No. 253 Natural Under­coat Enamel, White, Water-Based: Suit­able for priming or intermediate coats for interior and exterior use on wood

• Sinan Company No. 260 Natural Enamel, White, Water-Based, Interior, Satin: Low-gloss lacquer for interior use only, to be used after one undercoat of No. 253; can be tinted

Wood Stains

• AFM Safecoat Durostain: Interior and exterior

• BioShield Aqua Resin Stain: Zero-VOC, resilient wood stain finish for interior and exterior applications

• BioShield Earth Pigments #88

• Hydrocote Danish Oil Finish: Stain that colors and protects in one step

• Livos Kaldet Stain, Resin & Oil Finish: Satin, semi-flat, water-resistant finish, in­terior and exterior, strong surface harden­ing capacity for wood cabinets, doors, and windows

• OS Color One Coat Only: Natural oil- based stains

• PureColor: Two-stage stain formulation of pure mineral ions and oxygen catalyst with no solvents, oils, VOCs, odors, acids, or bleaches

Clear Vapor-Barrier Sealants for Wood

These products are used to help lock in nox­ious fumes so they do not escape into the air. In fact, since no seal is ever perfect, vapor – barrier sealants generally serve to decrease the amount of outgassing at any one time while increasing the overall time it takes for any sub­stance to completely volatilize. We recom­mend that all efforts be made to speed up the outgassing time prior to application of vapor barrier sealants.

Outgassing can be accelerated by using fil­tration or adsorbers indoors or by doing the application outdoors in a weather-protected area whenever possible. VOCs readily release noxious vapors in heat. Harmful chemicals can thus be dissipated more quickly if they are ex­posed to elevated temperatures. This can work well in controlled factory conditions but is not recommended for products in the home. Ad­sorbers are substances such as zeolite or alu­minum silicate to which VOCs adhere. When adsorbers are placed in a room, they help re­move VOCs from the ambient air.

Although most coatings seal to some de­gree, and will be more effective when applied in several layers, the following products are advertised by their manufacturer as recom­mended specifically for locking in noxious fumes. The manufacturer s instructions for ap­plication must be followed in order to achieve an optimum seal.

• AFM Safecoat Hard Seal: Clear sealer for low-moisture areas

• AFM Safecoat Safe Seal: Clear sealer for porous surfaces; also an effective primer

Further Reading and Services

Anderson Laboratories, PO Box 323, West Hartford, VT 05064,802-295-7344, For evaluation of toxic effects of selected carpets, insulation, and other building materials through testing on mice. Consultations are available by phone for a fee. Carpet and Indoor Air: What You Should Know. June 1993. Availabl e free of charge from New York State Attorney General, 120 Broadway, New York, NY 10271.

Environmental Access Research Network (EARN). 315 W. 7th Avenue, Sisserton, SD 59645. For a list of carpet-related articles, studies, and reports available from EARN’s photocopying service, send $1.00 and request “carpet list.”

Foster, Kari et al. Sustainable Residential Interiors. John Wiley and Sons, 2007. A guide to sustain­able principles and practices that can be applied to every level of interior design.

Guelberth, Cedar Rose and Dan Chiras. The Natu­ral Plaster Book. New Society Publishers, 2003.

A step-by-step guide for choosing, mixing, and applying natural plasters.

Thrasher, Jack and Alan Broughton. The Poisoning of Our Homes and Workplaces: Tf-ie Indoor Formal­dehyde Crisis. Seadora, 1989.

Toddler Made Severely III by Carpet

B. J. is a two-year-old boy who was in excellent health until the age of 10 months, when he sud­denly developed seizures. These episodes of rigid­ity and tremors occurred up to 40 to 50 times a day. The baby was subjected to a series of invasive diagnostic evaluations by many different special­ists. The blood tests, brain scans, and electroen­cephalograms revealed no apparent cause of the seizures. The baby was placed on medication to suppress the central nervous system. The seizures persisted, although their intensity declined.

The baby’s grandfather, a building contractor, suggested that the culprit might be the expensive new carpet installed shortly before the onset of the seizures. The parents contacted a represen­tative from the carpet industry, who denied any similar complaints of neurological problems from customers. The parents suspected that this infor­mation was incorrect. They sent samples of the carpet to the independent Anderson Laborato­ries in Vermont for testing. Air was blown across the carpet samples into the cages of mice, whose symptoms were then observed and documented. After a short period of time elapsed, the mice de­veloped tremors, rigidity, and seizures. The parents were horrified by the report. It was clear that their beautiful new carpet had essentially poisoned their son. The carpet and pad were immediately removed from the home, the adhesive scraped off, and the house aired out. The seizures stopped. The child is now off all medication and doing much better, although blood testing shows immune system damage consistent with chemical injury.

Most standard adhesives for carpet instal­lation are solvent-based and contain harmful chemicals. Where a glue-down installation is required, avoid solvent-based adhesives. We have specified several healthier options be­low. In either installation procedure, seaming tapes will be needed to fasten sections of car­peting together. Safer seaming tapes are also specified below.

There are several untreated natural fibers available for wall-to-wall installations, includ­ing wool, coir, and sisal. When these are in­stalled with low-toxic or nontoxic backing and either tacked-down or using low-toxic glue, they will provide a safer solution than most standard installations. Warning: Wool carpets are often treated with highly toxic mothproof­ing pesticides. Therefore, an expensive 100 percent wool carpet is not necessarily a safer carpet.

Wall-to-wall carpeting, whether standard or natural, serves as a reservoir for dirt, dust, mold, bacterial growth, and toxins tracked in from outside, even when it is regularly vacu­umed and shampooed. It is also highly absor­bent and will readily acquire odors. Typical cleaning agents for wall-to-wall carpets con­tain harmful ingredients, including perfumes, chemical soil removers, brighteners, and anti­bacterial agents.

Although we strongly recommend the use of throw rugs of natural fibers, which can be removed and cleaned, instead of wall-to-wall carpeting, we offer the following guidelines for selecting the least-toxic carpeting for those who choose to use it:

Verify with the manufacturer that wool carpets have not been mothproofed.

Of the synthetic carpets, 100 percent nylon is considered one of the safest.

Choose carpeting that has little or no odor. Even the slightest odor on a small sample will be magnified many times in a fully car­peted room and can result in a very promi­nent, unpleasant, and unhealthy smell. Choose your carpeting as early as possi­ble so it will have the most time to air out prior to installation. Buy carpeting from a supplier who will agree to warehouse it for you. This means that the carpet will be un­rolled and aired out in the warehouse prior to shipping.

Avoid carpeting that contains antimicro­bial agents such as fungicides and mildew – cides.

Avoid carpeting containing permanent stain-resistance treatment.

Avoid carpeting or pads containing styrene-butadiene rubber.

Carpeting with woven backing is prefera­ble to rubberized backing.

Follow underpad and installation recom­mendations in these specifications.

Use nontoxic and odor-free shampoos, and maintain carpets regularly to pre­vent mold, bacteria, dust, and pesticide buildup.

To prevent moth infestations in untreated wool carpets, vacuum the carpets on a reg­ular basis, moving furniture if necessary to reach all areas where larvae may hide. A vacuum cleaner that is equipped with a true HEPA filter is a must if you have car­pet. It is the only type that collects very tiny particles such as dust mite feces and mold spores. Portable vacuums that are not

equipped with HEPA filtration will spew dust into circulation, often leaving a room with more ambient dust than was there prior to cleaning.

• Establish a no-shoes policy for your home.

• If the carpet or pad gets wet, dry it as quickly as possible to prevent microbial growth. Warning: Never use wall-to-wall carpet in bathrooms, kitchens, laundry rooms, or mechanical rooms. Carpeting in these areas inevitably becomes damp, in­viting mold and bacterial infestation.

In new construction, homeowners are typi­cally given an allowance and asked to choose the carpeting. This allowance can also be used toward the purchase of healthier floor cover­ings.

Sources for nontoxic underpadding in­clude:

• Endurance II: Synthetic jute pad in 20- or 32-ounce weights

• Enertia Padding: Wool-based carpet pad­ding without dyes, fire retardant, moth­proofing, or adhesives

• Hartex Carpet Cushion: Available in three weights

• Hendricksen Naturlich: Recycled felt un­derpadding, heat bonded with no chemi­cal additives

• Ultra Touch: 29-ounce carpet cushion of recycled fibers

Acceptable adhesives and seaming tapes for carpet installation include:

• AFM Safecoat 3 in 1 Adhesive

• Auro No. 382 Floor Covering Adhesive

• CHAPCO Safe-Set 3 Premium Fast Grab Carpet Adhesive

• Envirotec Health Guard Adhesives:

CASE STUDY 9.4

Resilient Flooring

Although easy clean-up, economy, and a soft walking surface have made sheet vinyl a popu­lar flooring for kitchen and utility areas, vinyl flooring is associated with health hazards. The vinyl chloride fumes it emits are a known car­cinogen. In addition, in hot or humid climates requiring air conditioning the vinyl will trap moisture, which can promote delamination and mold growth or rot. We do not recom­mend vinyl in the healthy home.

Natural linoleum, also known as battleship linoleum, is made from linseed oil, pine resins, wood powder, and jute and is free of synthetic chemicals. When newly installed, this flooring does have a noticeable odor that some people do not tolerate. Cork tile is another natural choice for resilient flooring. The natural smell of the cork is also evident at first unless the cork is presealed. Both linoleum and cork are available with factory-applied acrylic finishes. In hot and humid climates these finishes may impede vapor permeability, causing moisture to be trapped under the surface.

Sources for Natural Linoleum and Cork Flooring

Natural linoleum and cork flooring are avail­able from the following sources:

• Armstrong/DLW Linoleums: Natural li­noleums in a variety of colors with natural jute backing

• Bangor Cork Company: Cork tiles and sheet flooring and linoleum

• Building for Health: Cork and battleship linoleum flooring products

• Dodge-Regupol, Inc.: Cork tile available unfinished, waxed, or with polyurethane matt or gloss finishes

• Duro Design: Cork flooring supplier

• Eco Design/Natural Choice: Cork floor tiles and adhesives

• Forbo Industries: Natural linoleum floor­ing products

• Hendricksen Naturlich: Cork, natural li­noleum, and other natural floor coverings and adhesives

• Jelenik Cork available through Sustain­able Flooring: A variety of patterns and colors, planks or tiles, and acoustical un – derlayment

• Natural Cork Co. Ltd.: Cork in a variety of colors, patterns, and finishes

Adhesives for Natural Linoleum and Cork Flooring These adhesives are acceptable for natural li­noleum and cork flooring:

• AFM Safecoat 3 in 1 Adhesive

• Auro No. 383 Natural Linoleum Glue

• BioShield Natural Cork Adhesive

• Envirotec Health Guard Adhesive #2027

• Forbo L910 Linoleum Sheet Adhesive and T940 Linoleum Tile Adhesive

• Sinan Company No. 380 and No. 390 for cork flooring

• Taylor Meta-Tec 2084 Tuff Lok X Link

for cork flooring

Carpeting

Carpeting has been associated with a grow­ing number of health problems. In a typical

carpet, toxic chemicals may be found in the fiber bonding material, dyes, backing glues, fire retardant, latex binder, fungicide, and an­tistatic and stain-resistant treatments. During a 1992 congressional hearing on the potential risk of carpets, the US Environmental Protec­tion Agency (EPA) stated that a typical carpet sample contains at least 120 chemicals, many of which are known to be neurotoxic. Outgas – sing from new carpeting can persist at signif­icantly high levels for up to three years after installation. Once discarded, carpet is neither renewable nor biodegradable. In major cities, discarded carpeting accounts for 7 percent of the landfill mass.

Synthetic latex, the most common carpet backing, contains approximately 100 differ­ent gases, which contribute to the unpleasant and harmful “new carpet smell.” Most under­pads are made of foamed plastic or synthetic rubber and contain petroleum products that cause pollution at every stage of production and continue to pollute once installed. Felt backings are generally less polluting. We have specified safer carpet backings below. Typi­cally, brands labeled hypoallergenic will be odorless.

Carpet Installation

There are two ways to install wall-to-wall car­peting: tack-down or glue-down. Tack-down installations are preferable because they do not destroy the floor surface and because the carpet is easier to remove and can thus be partially recycled. Tacking strips are nailed, screwed, or glued down around the perime­ter of the room. If the strips are glued, it is im­portant to use a low-toxic glue. The carpet and underpad are then stretched and the edges are folded with the underside tacked down.

CASE STUDY 9.3

Adhesives for Wood Flooring

Use only solvent-free adhesives or 100 percent silicone. Refer to the section on wood adhe­sives in Division 6.

Finishes for Wood Flooring When finishing or refinishing a wood floor on­site, it is advisable to specify “dustless” sand­ing, as explained above. This technique will help lower the amount of dust generated, but a thorough vacuuming with a true HEPA (high efficiency particulate air) vacuum will still be required.

A wide variety of floor-finishing prod­ucts are available, some with very toxic in­gredients. Because the floor is usually one of the last things to be finished, these emissions can be readily absorbed into other porous fin­ishes and may continue to outgas for weeks or months before the finish is fully cured. It is therefore important to apply a product that is free of harsh, solvent-based chemicals.

Water-Based Sealers for Wood Flooring

• AFM Safecoat Hard Seal over AFM Safe – coat Lock-In New Wood Sealer for me­dium gloss

• AFM Safecoat Polyureseal BP over AFM Safecoat Lock-In New Wood Sealer

• Bonakemi Mega Polyurethane: An ox­ygen crosslinking, waterborne polyure­thane wood finish

• Zip-Guard Environmental Wood Finish:

A clear finish

Natural Sealers, Waxes, and Oils for Wood Flooring A naturally finished wood floor often will require more maintenance than one that is sealed with a synthetic finish, but it will have a nicer feel underfoot. It will not have the elec­trostatic buildup associated with synthetics and will maintain its “breathability.” From a Building Biology standpoint, natural options are preferred. Most naturally derived prod­ucts have a scent associated with them that many people find to be pleasant but that may be intolerable to sensitive individuals. It is im­portant to test the following natural finishes prior to application:

• AFM Naturals Oil Wax Finish: Plant – based hardener and sealer for unfinished wood

• Auro Floor and Furniture Wax Finish No. 171: Dirt-repellent, solvent-free wax paste for wooden floors

• Auro European Furniture Wax No. 173:

High-coverage, dirt-repellent wax paste for wooden floors

• BioShield Penetrating Sealer #5: Use by

itself, as an undercoat with BioShield Hard Oil #9, or as an undercoat with a topcoat of BioShield Resin Floor Finish #4

• Livos Ardvos Wood Oil or Livos Meldos Hard Oil: Medium to high gloss

• Livos Bilo Floor Wax or Livos Glievo Liquid Wax: Plant chemistry or beeswax products

• OS Color Hard Wax/Oil: A satin matt oil or wax finish

• Trip Trap oils: A range of wood surface flooring treatment oils imported from Denmark and designed to maintain and clean hardwood or engineered wood floor­ing

Bamboo Flooring

Bamboo flooring has now become a cost com­petitive and aesthetic rival to wood flooring. The bamboo used for flooring can grow to a height of 40 feet in five years and a bamboo forest will continually renew itself. The bam­boo is split into strips and then kiln dried. Bamboo is more dimensionally stable than wood flooring and is 12 percent harder than rock maple. Bamboo flooring is available through the following sources:

• Bamboo Flooring Directory: Internet di­rectory of bamboo flooring manufacturers.

• Bamboo Hardwoods: Engineered pre­finished bamboo floors, sustainably har­vested, with a 50-year warranty on finish.

• Duro Design: Bamboo flooring supplier.

• EcoTimber: Supplier of bamboo flooring, floating floor padding, and sustainably harvested wood flooring.

• Plyboo: Hand harvested and grown in managed forests in Asia. Planks are 3-inch­wide tongue-and-groove and come in natural or amber color. Accessories, pan­eling, and veneer are also available. Plyboo comes unfinished or with an acrylic poly­urethane finish. Processing occurs in Asia and an MSDS is not available.

• Hanlite Bamboo, available through Sus­tainable Flooring: Claims to have the lowest formaldehyde in the industry. Sus­tainably harvested six-year-old bamboo with horizontal, vertical, or strand grain (the newest and most stable bamboo con­struction), unfinished or finished, 4У2 inches wide, 20-year nondelamination warranty. Also extensive line of bamboo millwork.

• Teragren: Available unfinished in vertical or flat grain in 12-inch-wide panels or 4-inch-wide tongue-and-groove planks for flooring. A variety of milled trim acces­sories are also available. Sustainably har­vested and grown without the use of pes­ticides, fertilizers, or irrigation. Available with a very durable German-made UV – catalyzed factory-applied urethane finish.

Wood Flooring

Wood is a healthful choice for flooring pro­vided that the subflooring, adhesives (if used), and finishes are carefully chosen to be health­ful as well. In standard construction, unfin­ished wood floors are commonly nailed to a formaldehyde-emitting underlayment and then finished with solvent-based finishes that will outgas for many months. Noxious glues may also be used in the installation process.

There are several prefinished engineered flooring systems available that can be applied directly over concrete using a floating floor in­stallation method. When considering a pre­finished floor, order a dated sample, product literature, and an MSDS. Manufacturers will publish their underlayment requirements. Most require a vapor barrier of some sort be­tween the underlayment and the flooring product and will state allowable maximum vapor emissions from the subfloor.

In our experience, most factory finishes have proven to be far more durable then any of the more benign finishes available for jobsite application. Furthermore, when a wood floor must be finished onsite the required sanding is a very dusty process, although dust levels can be reduced if you specify that a “dustless” process be used. For “dustless” sanding, a dou­ble-filter vacuum called a DCS unit is attached to the floor sander. It can contain up to 90 per­cent of the dust, making the process less dusty but by no means dustless.

All components of each wood floor ap­plication from underlayment to finish must be carefully analyzed. If you can look at both new and older installations that are similar to your proposed application, you will be able to carefully evaluate what the product smells like when it is new and how well it wears over time.

Wood Flooring International offers a complete line of both solid and prefinished engineered flooring using FSC certified wood. Their flooring is engineered to make very full use of the trees harvested. Their American Woods, Monteverde, Pacific Northwest, and Orchard Collections all meet Ei emissions standards (European standards set to limit formaldehyde emissions). These standards would permit up to an estimated 0.14 parts per million of formaldehyde for hardwoods. This is a significantly higher level than is per­mitted for wood-based products certified by GreenGuard, which sets a limit of 0.05 parts per million.

Prefinished Engineered Wood Flooring Systems

The following wood flooring systems meet stringent European emissions standards:

• Junckers: This is a solid wood engineered flooring system from Denmark that can be applied directly over concrete. It has a factory-applied UV-cured urethane fin­ish and comes in a variety of wood spe­cies with trim pieces. Wood comes from a source with managed forestry practices.

• Kahrs: This is a solid wood engineered flooring system from Sweden with a factory-applied UV-cured multilayered acrylic finish. The wear layer is solid %- inch plain sawn. Available in eleven wood species.

• Rappgo: This is a Swedish system manu­factured to meet German DIN emissions standards and containing a central layer of low-emissions plywood sandwiched between a top and bottom layer of solid wood. The product is distinctive in that the top wood has long plank length and the flooring holds up well in very dry con­ditions. It comes with a durable factory processed UV-cured acrylic finish that is fully cured by the time it reaches the job­site.

Underlayment for Wood Flooring

Interior-grade plywood or particleboard, most commonly used for wood floor under­layment, should not be used anywhere in a healthy house. The following underlayments are acceptable:

• 1- or 2-inch tongue-and-groove wood or rough-sawn lumber laid diagonally.

• Exterior-grade plywood (CDX), if used for underlayment, should be stickered to air out onsite. When used for chemically sen­sitive persons, it should be sealed with an acceptable vapor-barrier sealant, as speci­fied in this chapter.

A Very Hot Bed

Prior to purchasing a home, a family contacted John to conduct radon testing with electronic monitors, following the EPA’s protocol. Closed – house conditions were established 12 hours prior to testing and were maintained throughout the tests. During the testing, one of the electronic monitors located in the dining room indicated 12.5 picocuries of radon per liter of air, while a monitor elsewhere showed close to normal levels. The client was advised that the electronic read­ings were suspicious and that additional testing was necessary. As the investigation proceeded, it became clear that there was a radon source at one end of the home. In fact, the radon result for a test conducted on a night table in the guest bedroom was 27.0 picocuries, while that for the family room a short way down the hall was 7.0 picocuries. The farther the monitors had been placed from the guest bedroom, the lower the radon value.

Upon visual examination of the guest bed­room, it was noted that the headboards for the two beds were made of rock that appeared to be granite. The headboards were later tested with a small Geiger counter. While normal radioactive background levels away from the headboards were approximately 12 radioactive counts per minute, the counts close to the headboards were over 300. It was clear that the headboards were at least one source of radon in the room.

The headboards were in fact a decorative granite rock imported from Italy. Each headboard weighed several hundred pounds. The floors and walls had been especially constructed to hold the extra weight. It took six strong men to remove each of the headboards to a detached garage. The radon tests were repeated throughout the home with all values now under 1.0 picocurie. The home was given a radon clearance, contingent upon the proper disposal of the headboards.

Discussion

This was the first home John inspected in which a radon source was caused by a building material or furnishing. Although radon from the soil is the most common cause of elevated radiation levels in a home, there are many other possible sources. Since granite rock is sometimes high in uranium, it must be considered a potential source of radon when used in construction. Rock can be a superb building material, but it should always be tested prior to use for the rare possibility of radiation.

Grout Sealers

Sealing grouts will make grout joints easier to clean and more resistant to water penetration and staining. When water penetrates grout joints, it makes them susceptible to mold and bacterial growth. Even grouts containing mil – dewcides can eventually become moldy. Be­sides sealing grouts in wet areas, the key to mold-free grout is maintenance. Bathrooms should be kept dry by using exhaust fans, and grout joints should be cleaned regularly We do not recommend the commercially avail­able grouts enhanced with additives. We have found the following sealing methods to be generally well-tolerated by chemically sensi­tive individuals:

• AFM Safecoat Grout Sealer: A clear, moisture-resistant sealer for porous tile grout to help prevent staining

• AFM Safecoat Safe Seal: An odorless, zero-VOC, water-based, low-gloss sealer for highly porous surfaces, it can be di­luted in a 50:50 ratio with water and then mixed into the dry grout to form an inte­gral grout sealer

Stone

While stone is generally a healthful and beau­tiful choice for flooring and decorative ac­cents, it raises the same concerns about proper installation as ceramic tile does. The specifica­tions we have outlined for ceramic tile also ap­ply to stone.

We have tested several stone products for radiation and radon content and found a range of readings from very low to high levels. Al­though uranium content in construction ma­terials is not usually considered to be a serious concern, Johns experience, as shared in Case Study 9.2, leads us to conclude that stone can contribute significantly to ambient radon lev­els in a home. We recommend that stone, es­pecially granite, be screened for radon prior to installation, even though the Granite Institute has issued a scientific report concluding that granite countertops do not emit radioactivity into the home. Tests are easily performed as described in Division 13.

Stone Installation

Refer to our discussion of the thickset method in the section on tile installation above and to the section on stone countertops in Divi­sion 6.

Sealers for Stone

Tire following finishes are free of petroleum – based solvents and can be used for most stone flooring, shelving, and countertops:

• AFM Safecoat MexeSeal: A durable sealer providing water and oil repellency, applied over AFM Safecoat Paver Seal.003, an un­dersealer for porous materials

• Lithofin: Stone sealers

• Livos Meldos Hard Oil and Livos Bilo Floor Wax: A penetrating oil sealer and a clear, mar-resistant finish wax respec­tively; can be odorous when first applied and should be carefully tested prior to use by a chemically sensitive individual

• Naturel Cleaner and Sealer: Water – soluble flakes that clean, protect, and fin­ish stone surfaces

Flooring

Flooring Installation Over Concrete

Flooring materials such as wood, carpeting, and resilient flooring are often laid over a con­crete slab. If the concrete slab has a high mois­ture content resulting from inadequate cur­ing time or from a high water table, then the perfect conditions exist for mold growth: an environment that is dark, moist, still, and nu­tritious. Flooring manufacturers publish rec­ommended maximum vapor-emissions levels for installations of their products over con­crete slab. When these levels are exceeded, the warranty is void. Unfortunately, slabs are rarely measured for vapor emissions.

Where finished flooring, especially wood flooring, is laid over concrete slab with radi­ant heat tubing in it, we have encountered an additional problem. A slab that appears to be fully cured will have unacceptably high vapor emissions when the heat is first turned on. Often the heat is turned on only after floor fin­ishes have been applied and the construction is completed.

We consider these to be important quality control issues and suggest the following speci­fications: [16] [17]

CASE STUDY 9.2

Organic Mastics

Organic mastics are either water – or petro­leum-based adhesives that consist of a bonding agent and a liquid vehicle. For petroleum – based mastics, the vehicle is a solvent, usually toluene. These formulations are highly toxic and flammable and are not recommended for use in a healthy home.

Organic mastics enjoy widespread popu­larity because they are inexpensive, stickier than thinsets, and allow the quickest installa­tions. However, they do not have the strength, flexibility, or water resistance of thinset or thickset applications. Because they are applied in a very thin layer, they do not have leveling capabilities and are suitable only for applica­tion over flat surfaces such as plywood or dry – wall. When they are used over concrete, the vapor emission rate and pH of the slab must be checked to ensure compatibility with the mastic, which can break down if too much moisture is emitted from the slab. If the slab is too alkaline, adverse pH reactions in the mastic can result in a persistent odor that is strong and unpleasant. Refer to Division 13 for more information on calcium chloride mois­ture testing and pH testing for concrete. Most mastics are not recommended for areas that get wet. Where mastic applications are appro­priate, you may wish to choose one of the fol­lowing water-based products:

• AFM Safecoat 3 in 1 Adhesive: Low-odor, low-VOC, water-based mastic for hard composition wall and floor tiles

• CHAPCO Safe-Set 88 and Safe-Set 90 Ce­ramic Tile Adhesives: Solvent-free, non­flammable, freeze/thaw stable, and almost odor-free ceramic floor tile adhesives

• Taylor Envirotec 901 Odyssey Ceramic Tile Type I Adhesive: For ceramic floor and wall tile adhesion

Grouts

As with tile-setting mortars, a number of addi­tives maybe used in commercial grouts to im­part certain performance characteristics such as improved strength and flexibility, increased water or stain resistance, and improved freeze/ thaw stability. Some of these additives, such as epoxies, are quite noxious. In grout applica­tions, they will be exposed to the living space and will continue to outgas until completely cured. Homemade grouts can be mixed on­site by combining Portland cement, sand, lime (optional), and water. They can be colored with the same pigments used to color concrete (see the section on concrete finishes in Divi­sion 3). It is important that the person mixing the grout know the proper proportions and sand size for the particular tile application. These applications should be damp-cured for three days. The following commercially avail­able grouts are free of latex additives:

• C-Cure AR Sanded Grout 922: A sanded grout available in a limited selection of colors

• C-Cure Supreme Grout 925: An unsanded grout for joints less than % inch and for use with tiles that are easily scratched, such as marble

• Hydroment: Ceramic tile grout (sanded) and dry tile grout (unsanded)

• Mapei 2V2" to 1: For large grout joints greater than % inch

• Summitville-700 SummitChromes:

Sanded grout without polymer additives, available in 32 colors

Sealers

Tile Sealers

If an unsealed tile is selected, it is important to specify sealants that are free of harmful chem­icals. Many of the commercially available tile sealers are solvent-based, highly toxic prod­ucts that will emit noxious fumes for a long time after application. If they are used to cover a large floor area, the negative impact can be significant. Consider one of the following spe­cially formulated products:

• AFM Safecoat MexeSeal: For sealing pre­viously unsealed tile floors

• AgriStain for Concrete: Sealer and stain for concrete, plaster, and porous tiles

• Zip-Guard Environmental Wood Finish: A water-based urethane that can be used for sealing very clean, previously unsealed tile floors