Tapes

These inexpensive tapes come in several varieties: nonporous, closed-cell foam; open-cell foam silicone; and various rub­bers, including a product called EPDM (ethylene propylene diene monomer). It’s worth spending a few extra cents per foot to buy the more-efficient closed-cell foam or higher-quality silicones. Any of these styles can be purchased in various thicknesses and lengths.

Although installation is easy—little more than peel-and-stick—be sure to clean sur­faces using a mild detergent prior to setting the tape in place. In areas that see little use, such as inoperable windows, expect the tape to last roughly three years. On frequently opened windows, you’ll need to replace it in as little as a year. Securing the tape with tacks or staples helps to extend its longevity. As a general rule, apply this type of weath­erstripping only on parts of windows that are not opened, such as around the upper sash.

Durability: Poor Cost: Vinyl foam: about 20ФДк X-Treme Rubber: about ЗОФ/ft. Rubber foam: about ЗОФ/ft. EPDM rubber: about 80ФДк Silicone: about $1.15/ft.

	Accurate Metal Weatherstrip Co. Inc. www. accurateweatherstrip. com Duck® Products www. duckbrand. com Frost King® www. frostking. com M-D® Building Products www. mdteam. com Pemko Manufacturing® www. pemko. com Randy Surley Manufacturing Company www. randysurleymfg. com
Resource Conservation Technology Inc. www. conservationtechnology. com
Available at tool-rental outlets, this laminate trimmer has a 45-degree angled base that slides between the window jamb and stop to cut an angled groove for silicone-bead and other kerf-in weatherstripping.
OPTIONS FOR AN EXTERIOR DOOR The swinging motion of a door allows you a greater choice of weatherstripping. In most cases, though, you must pay attention to how it should be applied. Some types of weatherstripping attach to the door jamb, and others to the doorstop.
TOP OF DOOR V-strips (attach to jamb) Felt (against doorstop) Tapes (attach to doorstop) Rigid jamb (attaches to jamb and abuts doorstop) Kerf-in (against doorstop) HINGE SIDE OF DOOR V-strips (attach to jamb) Felt (applied to jamb) Tapes (applied to jamb) Kerf-in (against doorstop)
LOCK SIDE OF DOOR V-strips (attach to jamb; notch to fit around latch plate) Felt (against door­stop; place separate lengths on each side of latch plate) Tapes (abut doorstop) Rigid jamb (attaches to inside face of doorstop) Kerf-in (against doorstop) BOTTOM OF DOOR Vinyl, metal, or wood thresholds Door seals, sweeps, or shoes; attachment varies by style

Cut the groove toward the corners. Plunge the kerfing tool into the seam between the window jamb and the stop that holds the sash, and move it slowly toward the top and bottom corners of the jamb. A vacuum hose sucks up stray sawdust. silicone-bead and other kerf — in weatherstripping is easy to install. Just cut the corners at a 45-degree angle, and press the flat fin into the kerf.

Durability: silicone: excellent Plastic polymer and foam: good Cost: Plastic polymer: about 18$/ft. Foam: about 38$/ft.

Silicone: 35$/ft. to $1.10/ft.

Kerf-In

A kerf is a blade-width notch cut into a door or window jamb with a saw or router. New doors often come with kerf-in weatherstrip­ping in place. Although silicone might last up to 50 years, plastic and foam kerf-in weatherstripping might need replacement sooner. Simply pull out the old weatherstrip­ping and snap the new, self-locking product into place.

Although it’s possible to install kerf — in weatherstripping on old windows not originally designed for it, you need to rent a corner-grooving tool (see the photos above left and on p. 87) to create the kerf. If you’re tool savvy, these router-like machines are easy to use. Expect to pay about $70 per day for the rental.