Durability and Energy Efficiency Are Intertwined

Making a flooded basement livable is a great example of how one type of repair is directly related to another. On one of these projects, we needed to stop water from leaking into

the old rubble foundation with a perimeter drain and a new slab. Adding insulation under the slab and inside the walls keeps the space free of condensation and also saves energy.

The durability and functional upgrades illustrated on the following pages cost a lot. By spending a bit more, we were able to reduce energy costs tremendously. After cutting energy consumption, the stage is set for the installation of affordable, renewable power sources to offset the remaining energy needs. And that 21st-century step could transform these vintage homes to net-zero energy houses or even energy producers.

3-in. closed-cell spray foam (R-21)

3-in. fiberglass batts (R-10)

2-in. XPS foam (R-10)

Tar paper

FOR THE HOUSE, THREE iNSULATiONS UNDER ONE ROOF

To get a high R-value (R-40) without disrupting the roof or increasing the 2×6 rafter size, we combined insulation types. We could have used only closed-cell spray foam to fill the rafters, but at the time, it was too expensive. Instead, we used 3 in. of spray foam to create an air barrier and fiberglass batts to fill the rest of the rafter bay. A layer of rigid foam under the rafters is a thermal break.

SPECS

Built: 1860s

Renovation completed: 2,000 Conditioned space: 2,600 sq. ft. before; 5,240 sq. ft. after, including the barn Bedrooms: 4 before; 6 after Bathrooms: 2 before; 4У2 after cost of renovation: $125 per sq. ft.

annual utility cost:

• Before: $1.90 per sq. ft.; after: 86Ф per sq. ft.

• Gas: $3,000 a year before; $2,400 a year after

• Electric: $1,950 a year before; $2,100 a year after

„…….. .

12-in. screws

A CALCULATED RiSK FOR THE BARN Because we wanted the timber­framing visible, we put the insulation outside the barn after wrapping it with plastic. Why plastic? Because struc­tural and water-related repairs had drained our budget, and we thought we could save by using plastic (rather than self­adhesive roofing membrane) to control air and vapor while act­ing as a drainage plane.

V2-in. plywood

10-in. EPS foam (R-40)

6-mil poly

3/4-in. plywood strips

Existing timber frame

8-in. EPS J3F- foam (R-32) — 3/4-in. furring strips

Existing sheathing

6-mil poly

Wood siding

6×6 sill beam

New 2×10 floor joist

the renovated bam as our office space for 10 years while fighting a zoning battle to allow this "commercial" use. In the end, we lost the zoning battle, and now the barn is a huge guest house with full kitchen and bath. We did what we thought we could afford at the time, but in trying to save money, we scrimped in ways we would not do again. The 6-mil polyethylene (see the drawing above) was a risky control layer for the barn and has been working except for some areas where the roof leaked at the intersection of the new cupola that we installed. Today, we would use a peel-and-stick roofing mem­brane rather than plastic and be very dili­gent with the flashing and counterflashing around the cupola. The waterproof membrane covering

8-in. EPS / foam (R-32)

2-in. metal stud wall with drywall

Dense mesh drainage mat

Roofing membrane

Granite-block foundation

4-in. crushed stone (no fines)

Embedded perimeter drainpipe leads to sump pump.

FiX FOR A FLOOD-PRONE BASEMENT The granite-block foundation in this 150-year-old barn quit blocking water many years ago. The solution? Pump it out. Peel-and-stick roofing membrane acts as a drainage plane, directing water to the perimeter drainpipe leading to a sump pump. Closed-cell insulation keeps the basement warm and dry.

ШГ — i

SPECS

Built: Circa 1860 Renovation completed:

2003

Conditioned space:

2,150 sq. ft. before; 2,750sq. ft., after, plus

1,0 sq. ft. of dry warm basement space Bedrooms: 2 before;

4У2 after

Bathrooms: 2 before;

4V2 after

Cost of renovation: $125 per sq. ft.

Annual utility cost:

• Before: $2.34 per sq. ft.; after: 83Ф per sq. ft.

• Gas: $3,600 a year before $1,474 a year after

• electric: $1,440 a year before; $830 a year after

a deeper roof is cheaper TO iNsuLATE

Because the 2×4 rafters were sagging under the weight of the slate, we sistered 12-in.-deep rafters to them. Deep rafter cavities such as these mean that the more-economical open­cell foam can be used and still get high R-values. Along with 2 in. of XPS (extruded polysty­rene) under the rafters, we got an R-value

of 5°. Conditioned space behind the

kneewall is ideal for air-handling equipment or ductwork.

Two-inch-thick XPS foam board (R-10) adds insulation and is a class-II vapor retarder.

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