. PLUMBING AND SECURING THE WALL

Once the wall is up, nail the bottom of the brace so the wall will stay upright as you fine-tune its position. Use a sledgehammer to tap the sole plate till it aligns with your chalkline on the floor. As you adjust, continuously check for plumb, using a 6-ft. level. If you unnail the brace to plumb the wall, have workers support the wall until you’ve renailed it.

Once the bottom plate lines up with the chalk­line, drive two or three 20d nails through the plate, into the joists or blocking below, so the wall can’t drift. Methods for securing the top of the wall vary. If you’re framing an addition and have wide-open space, typically two walls inter­secting at right angles are raised, plumbed, and braced, and then tied together by overlapping top plates.

Подпись: Raising walls Two workers can raise an unsheathed stud wall 8 ft. to 10 ft. long. But if it's much longer than that or if it's sheathed, assemble a larger crew or use wall-lifting jacks to raise it. Raising walls safely takes prep work: Clear the deck of tools, scrap lumber, and other items you might trip over. Nail the top of a diagonal brace 1 ft. below the top plate, using a single 16d nail so that the brace can pivot as you raise the wall; and prenail a 2x block into floor framing so you can quickly nail the bottom of the diagonal brace once the wall is plumb. If you are raising an exterior wall, first nail 2x stops to the outside of the platform so the bottom plate can't slide off the deck during the operation. If you are raising a partition within an existing structure, expose the ceiling joists or end-wall studs you'll nail the partition to. If joists run parallel to the new partition, add blocking between the joists beforehand, as shown in "Partition Parallel with Joists" and "Blocking for Sole Plates" on p. 166. Here are three tips for raising walls: ► As shown in the photo below, several workers straddling the top plate should drive hammer claws into the top plate, lift in unison, and slide 2x blocks beneath the top plate so they can get a good grip before actually lifting. ► Lift with your legs, not with your back. ► If your crew is small, set two sawhorses nearby, perpendicular to the wall; the horses will support the wall once the crew has raised it waist-high, allowing them to reposition themselves so they can push the wall up the rest of the way. image336But if you’re raising a partition in an existing room, you’ll usually nail the top plate to ceiling joists. Invariably, space is tight indoors, and you’ll often need to gently sledgehammer the par­tition into place, alternating blows between top and sole plates till the wall is plumb. Alterna­tively, you can gain room to maneuver by first nailing the upper 2×4 of a doubled top plate to the exposed ceiling joists—use two 16d nails per joist—before raising the wall. Tilt up the wall, slide it beneath the upper top plate, plumb the wall, and then face-nail the top plates together using two 16d nails per stud bay. Finally, finish

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nailing the sole plates, driving two 16d nails into the joists or blocking below. In the corners, use 10d or 12d nails to toenail the corner studs to blocking or existing studs; use 16d nails if you can face-nail them. Adding blocking to existing framing is discussed on p. 165.

Updated: 16 ноября, 2015 — 3:22 дп