ORDERING COUNTERTOPS

Once you’ve identified several reputable coun­tertop shops in your area, get bids. For your protection, develop detailed floor plans and, as you proceed, put everything in writing. That way, you’ll be sure that quotes from different shops reflect similar details, deadlines, and so on. The following guidelines are adapted, with permission, from Sullivan Counter Tops, Inc. (visit www. sullivancountertops. com).

Visit suppliers in your area. Look at counter­tops in several different showrooms, and discuss your options with the salespeople. Share any information—samples of wall paint or cabinet finishes, magazine ads showing counter surfaces, photos of sinks or sink fixtures—that will clarify the style and look you’re after. A salesperson’s willingness to spend time and answer questions says a lot about a supplier.

Get bids. Provide a floor plan, drawing, or sketch to the countertop suppliers, and ask each to gen­erate a written bid. The bid should also specify a completion date, terms of payment, and the scope

of the installation. In most cases, quoted prices will not include plumbing, electrical work, or adjustments to the cabinets such as sink cutouts and leveling plywood substrates. Tearing out old countertops is usually extra, too. Based on bids and supplier reputations, choose a supplier.

Schedule the job. Most installations require two visits from the supplier: the "measure date” and the "install date.” It’s difficult to pinpoint a meas­ure date until the cabinets are installed, but in general, 2 weeks’ to 4 weeks’ notice should be enough. Typically, solid-surface (such as Corian) and plastic-laminate countertops require about 1 week between the measure date and the install date. Quartz-composite countertops (such as Zodiaq) require about 2 weeks. Most countertop suppliers will allow you to change the installation time without penalty, provided you give them enough notice.

Be prepared for meetings. The measure date is your last chance to give input on details such as underlayment issues, color, edge treatment, and splash detail. Whatever you finally decide on, get it in writing. During this meeting, the supplier will review job site conditions, so the general contractor should be there, too.

Important prerequisites

► Cabinets must be set before the job can be measured. In other words, the cabinets must be screwed together and screwed to the walls, not just pushed into place. The cabinets cannot be moved even И in. after the countertop supplier has measured because countertops are fabricated to close tolerances.

► Cabinets must be set level. As general rule, cabinets must be set on a level plane within % in. over a 10-ft. length. Such stringent requirements are a concern not only to installers but also, in some cases, to manu­facturers as a condition of warranty.

► All appliances and sinks should be on the job site at the time of the measure. The fitting of sinks and appliances is often critically close. Design or construction issues that could cause problems or delay the installation should be resolved on the measure date. If the sinks and appliances are on site, the supplier can inspect them. If there’s a defect, damage, or, say, a sink rim that won’t fit the countertop, you’ll need time to replace the item before installation.

Kitchen Sinks

Because a kitchen is one the most-used rooms in the house, do a little research before choosing its most-used fixture.

CHOOSING A KITCHEN SINK

Keep four criteria in mind when considering sinks: size and number of bowls, sink-hole compatibility with faucets and accessories, mate­rials, and mounting styles.

Size and number of bowls. Sinks are available in dozens of sizes and shapes. For the record, a 22-in. by 33-in. two-bowl unit is the most popular, perhaps because it fits neatly into “standard” sink cabinets 24 in. deep by 36 in. long. Two bowls allow you to prep food in one, and put used bowls and pots in the other, during the mad dash to din­ner. Typically, there’s a garbage disposer on one side. If you’ve got a dishwasher and don’t need to wash dishes in the sink, a large single-bowl sink is best suited to washing pots and pans; 10 in. deep is optimal. If you’ve got plenty of counter space and two family members like to cook, install two separate sinks. By the way, three-bowl sinks (45 in. wide) are overkill for most home kitchens.

Most sinks have one to four holes. Typically the spout and faucet handles take up three of those holes, but some single-lever faucets require only one hole. Filling an extra hole is generally not a problem, what with soap dispensers, hot-water dispensers, spray units, filtered-water dispensers, and so on to choose from. Incompatibility more often occurs when a faucet assembly’s valve stems have a different spacing than the holes in the sink. Always measure the sink and the faucet assembly to be sure. Likewise, if the sink is undermounted, an installer must drill holes into a countertop, making sure they have the same spacing as the faucet to be installed.

Materials. Sink materials include many of those used for countertops. You can use almost any­thing that will hold water, but ideally it should be

 

light enough to install without breaking your back, easy to clean, durable, moderately priced, heat resistant, and stain resistant. Few materials fill the bill as well as stainless steel.

► Stainless-steel sinks represent roughly three-quarters of all kitchen installations. Typically, they have a brushed or polished finish; brushed finishes are easier to maintain

 

ORDERING COUNTERTOPS

Templates are useful for transferring accurate measurements to any sheet material or flat surface, whether it’s a piece of drywall that needs to be notched beneath an exposed stair or a new door that must be fit to an old, out-of-square door frame. When the going gets rough, the pros make templates. Nowhere is this truer than when those large sheets are granite slabs. Often, countertop suppliers create templates during the "measure date" described in "Ordering Countertops," on the facing page.

 

ORDERING COUNTERTOPS

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This enameled cast-iron farmhouse sink is big enough to rinse as large a turkey as you can lift. The faucet’s spout swings out of the way for complete access to the sink. (Fixture available from www. bathsfromthepast. com.)

 

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The more complex the site conditions or cutouts, the more information the template contains. This small section notes the type of granite, edge bevels, and thickness and the location of the sink cutout. The template’s back edge registers to the window width.

 

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image659image660image661image662because water spots don’t show as conspic­uously. A sink’s gauge (thickness) is the real differentiator. Thicker gauges (16 gauge to 18 gauge) are harder to flex and dent and are quieter to use; whereas thinner gauges (20 gauge to 22 gauge) are less expensive, less durable, and more inclined to stain. Cost: This can range widely, from $40 for a 22-gauge single-bowl

Updated: 21 ноября, 2015 — 11:15 пп