Lightly sand and prime the stool, including its underside and ends to prevent its absorbing moisture from condensation or driving rains. After the paint is thoroughly dry, apply water­proof glue to the underside of the stool, level it, and nail it to the rough sill using two or three 6d galvanized finish nails. Try not to lean on the only partially supported stool till it’s nailed to the top of the apron, which will steady the stool.

Next cut the apron, which is generally the same casing used for side and head casing, although here its thicker edge is butted to the underside of the stool. The apron should be as

Подпись: 1. After transferring the interior dimensions of the window frame to the stool stock, cut across the stock till the sawblade reaches the stool shoulder.

long as the head casing so that it lines up visually with the outside edges of the side casing. If the apron is molded, cope each end to accentuate its profile or miter-cut it and glue on a return. If you’ll be painting the casing, caulk along the underside of the stool to prevent drafts. Then butt the apron to the underside of the stool. Nail up the apron, driving 6d finish nails into the rough opening beneath the sill. Finally, nail the

Cutting a Window Stool








Start casing a window by installing its stool. Use a combination-square level or a torpedo level to level it, then 8d finish nails to secure it to the rough sill underneath. However, the stool won’t be stable till it is also nailed and glued to an apron under its inside edge.


2. Following the shoulder line, cut in from the ends of the stock to create horns.


3. Rip down the stock so its beveled portion butts the inner window sash, less Via in.




Final bevel width




4. Trim the horns of the stool so they protrude 3/4 in. beyond the side casings.






Windowsills have both an inner and outer life-one half is interior, and the other is exterior. It makes sense to pitch the outer portion of a sill so it can shed water.

Подпись: Typically, the apron is as wide as the casing above the window stool; the stool horns project 3A in. beyond both. But in the old days, windowsills were pitched all the way, front to back, which created a uselessly pitched interior section that had to be covered with a stool piece, as shown in "Window Trim," on p. 421. To fit a pitched sill, usually set at 14° to 20°, the underside of a stool must be partially rabbeted at the same angle, so that when the stool is nailed on top of the sill, the top face of the stool will be level. It’s an archaic design but, surprisingly, it survives in some new window designs.

Many modern windows, however, have a sill whose interior portion is flat on top and flush to the insides of the window frame. Consequently, there’s no need for a stool or an apron. Such windows may be "picture framed." That is, the casing can be mitered around all four sides of the window frame.

If your windows have traditional stools and aprons, the trickiest part of casing the windows will be fitting the stools. Typically, a stool’s outer edge almost abuts the inside of the lower window sash (allow a 1/i6-in. space for the thickness of paint), and its interior edge overhangs the apron beneath it. And note that the stool’s "horns" extend 3/4 in. to 1V2 in. beyond the width of the side casings. You can still buy replacement stools for window renovations in older houses.


Подпись: 1. After installing stop-strips inside the window frame and scribing reveal lines on all three jamb edges, cut and tack up the first piece of jamb casing, in this case, a miter cut. image875

If yotlTe installing new or reattaching old door casing or baseboards, wait till the floors are finished. Otherwise, floor sanders and carpet knee kickers can bash the dickens out of trim.


image876Подпись: 3. Set nails, fill holes, and touch-up sand all surfaces before finishing the wood casing. Generally, there won't be many nails to set if you've used a pneumatic nailer.2. Although many carpenters install both jamb casings before measuring the head casing, this carpenter chose to dry-fit the second jamb and head as a pair, so he could adjust the miter joint in place. An unglued biscuit held the pieces of casing together as he finessed the joint.

Подпись:image877Подпись: If you can't scribe and cut the bottom of the baseboard, use base shoe to cover gaps.Подпись: Arched Window Casing There's something inspiring about arched windows. Restoration carpenter Jim Spaulding (shown on the following pages) offers this advice: "Order all the casing from the same shop so that the same knives cut the arches and the legs (side casing). That way, all the profiles will sweep continuously around the frame." Arched casings are different from casings for other windows, and so installing them takes some flexibility. After setting the stool and apron, for example, you install its head casing next. Side casings are last. Although modern window makers offer a limited selection of prefab casing for the arched windows they sell, plan on custom-ordering casing for older arched windows. Correctly determining the radius of the arch is challenging: One method is to tack Vs-in.-thick plywood (also called doorskin) to the inside edge of the arched frame head-run it about 1 ft. below the "spring line" of the arch, where the frame becomes straight. Go outside and trace the arch, tracing lightly so you don't bow the plywood. Make templates for each arched window, and take them to a local shop that mills trim. Note: The inside edge of arched casing must be revealed (set back) from the arch you traced of the frame's inside edge.

stool to the top of apron, using three or four 6d galvanized finish nails. Set and fill those nails.

Install the side and head casing in the same order that you would case a door: side casing, head casing, and second side casing. The main difference is that window side casing sits on the stool horns. If you’re casing side-by-side windows with flat trim, you can run a single piece of head casing over both windows and butt the middle and side casings to the underside of the head casing, as shown, in in the top photo on p. 419.

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