Materials ESTIMATES FOR A ROOF

DETERMINING THE QUANTITY of materials needed to cover and shingle a roof is rather easy. First, measure the roof to determine its square footage. Add the width of both sides of the roof and multi­ply that number by the length of the roof. Let’s look at an example: A roof with an overall width of 28 ft. and a length of 46 ft. has a total area of 1,288 sq. ft., which I’d round up to 1,300 sq. ft.

Figure felt paper first. The first material you will need is felt paper. The coverage you can obtain from a roll of felt paper varies, but it’s often 300 sq. ft. (to make sure, ask your building — materials supplier). Divide 1,300 sq. ft. by 300 sq. ft. for a total of 4.33 or 4Уз rolls. Buy five rolls of felt paper, because you’ll need the extra to com­pensate for overlap and to seal around the plumb­ing vents.

Shingles come in bundles and are ordered by the square. One bundle of standard-size shingles covers 33.3 sq. ft. Three bundles cover 100 sq. ft.

(10 ft. by 10 ft.), which is called a square. It takes 13 squares (39 bundles) to cover a l,300-sq.-ft. roof. Order at least two extra bundles to make up for the ridge cap, the valley lap, and waste.

In addition to the shingles, you’ll also need a ridge vent. Measure the length of the ridge to deter­mine the size you’ll need. Depending on the manu­facturer’s recommendations, vents can extend all the way across the ridge or to within 2 ft. of the roof’s edge at each end.

Don’t forget the nails. Buy 7/s-in. roofing nails for the shingles (about 1 lb. per square) anc ІУИп. nails for the ridge vent (about Vz lb.). Buy cuil nails if you are using a pneumatic nailer. If the eave overhangs will be exposed, buy 2 lbs. of Уз-in. roof­ing nails; longer nails that penetrate the roof sheathing are unsightly. You’ll also need about 5 lbs. of plastic-head roofing nails to hold the felt paper in place on a roof this size. Add a tube or two of asphalt caulk to cover any exposed nails and to seal around the plumbing vents.

Подпись: Helping HandПодпись: Don't let shingles get sun-burned. Don't store asphalt shingles in the sun, unless you're going to use them right away. The tar strips can melt and seal the shingles together into a big, useless mess. If you must store shingles, put them in the shade or cover them with a light-colored tarp to reflect the heat.

shingles relied more heat than dark ones do. For this reason, people living in the southern part of the United States tend to prefer light — colored shingles. People living further north often select darker shingles.

Lay out the shingles

With some simple layout, your shingles can look like a professional installed them. Poorly laid shingles may keep out water, hut they just don’t look appealing. Admittedly, not many people visit your home just to see whether your shingle pattern is pleasing to the eye, hut good workers lake pride in doing things right. When 1 was framing tract houses (500 at a time), I knew roofers who could start in one
corner and shingle an entire roof without

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snapping a chalkline and do a neat, proper job. That’s skill. The rest of us need to snap a few lines to keep the materials oriented correctly.

BASIC MEASUREMENTS. Before snapping a chalkline for the first shingle course (the starter course), determine the distance the shingles will extend beyond the drip edge.

11 ere in Oregon, shingles typically lap over the edge by about V: in. I worked on houses in Georgia where the shingle overhang was about 2 in. T hey drooped in the hot sun and provided the roof with a nice-looking detail. Just be aware that a large shingle overhang presents a greater surface area to heavy winds,

making them more vulnerable and likely to tear or rip off. Check the shingle manufac­turers recommendations for overhang.

As shown in the illustration at right, a stan­dard three-tab shingle measures 12 in. wide by 36 in. long. Each of the three tabs measures 12 in. across. (Dimensional or metric shingles area bit larger. To install them, read the instructions printed on the package.) If you want 12-in. shingles to hang over the edges by Y in., for example, measure 11У: in. from the outside edge and snap chalklines around the roof’s perimeter.

VERTICAL LAYOUT LINES. Sometimes referred to as bond or offset lines, vertical layout lines keep shingles aligned and ensure that you don’t end up with a narrow section of shingle when you get to the edge of the roof. There are different ways to establish vertical layout lines. The best method I’ve seen is explained in the sidebar on p. 140. My tharks to Habitat veteran Anna Carter and other volunteers, who figured out this vertical layout technique.

HORIZONTAL LAYOUT LINES. Once the vertical layout lines are in place, you can lay out the horizontal lines. To do this, you must know the reveal—the part of each shingle that remains exposed (“to the weather") after the next course is installed. On standard shingles, this distance is usually 5 in. Therefore, on a 12-in.-wide shingle, 7 in. will he covered by the next course. Some manufacturers recom­mend different reveals, so check the label for specifics.

Assuming your reveal is 5 in., measure 5 in., 10 in., 15 in., and so on from the starter course’s chalkline (II ‘A in. from the edge of the eaves). Mark these 5-in. increments near both gable ends—all the way from the cave to the ridge on both sides of the roof—then snap chalklines between the marks. It’sokav to use

 

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red chalk on felt, because it shows up well and will he covered by the shingles anyway. Each successive course of shingles is held to these horizontal lines.

Rather than snap a line every 5 in., some shinglers prefer to snap a line every 15 in. or 20 in., set the gauge on a shingle hatchet to 5 in., then use the hatchet to space the courses between the chalklines (see the illustration on p. 141).

 

SNAPPING LAYOUT LINES. Snapped with red chalk, vertical and horizontal lay­out lines ensure proper shingle align­ment and allow shingling work to go quickly.

 

Materials ESTIMATES FOR A ROOFMaterials ESTIMATES FOR A ROOF

Updated: 19 ноября, 2015 — 5:02 дп