1. Make sure the first piece goes up plumb. If you are installing more than three pieces in a row, use a level to set the first piece plumb.
2. It is easier to install the plywood if you are able to fit a 16d nail between the concrete foundation and the mudsill.
a. Place two nails under each piece near each end.
b. Remove the nails when you are finished.
3. The easiest and fastest way to handle an opening in the wall is to just sheath over it, then come back and use a panel pilot router bit to cut out the sheathing.
1. Make sure the first piece goes on square.
2. Chalk a line from one end of the roof to the other.
• When measuring for the chalk line, make sure you consider how the plywood intersects with the fascia. The plywood may cover the fascia, or the fascia may hide it.
3. If the sheathing overhang is exposed, the sheathing could take a special finish.
• If the exposed sheathing is more expensive than the unexposed sheathing, then often the exposed sheathing is cut to fit only the exposed area. In this situation, cut the sheathing so that it breaks in the middle of the truss or rafter blocking.
4. 24" is the minimum width of any row of sheathing. Check before you get to the last row in case you need to cut a row so the last row will be at least 24".
1. Read the information on the stamp on each piece of plywood. Make sure you are using the right grade. Sometimes the stamp will tell which side should be up.
2. There should be at least a 1/8" gap between sheets for expansion.
3. The heads of the nails must be at least 3/8" from the edge of the sheathing.
4. Make sure that the nail head does not go so deep that it breaks the top veneer of the sheathing. Control nail gun pressure with a pressure gage or depth gage.
5. Angle the nail slightly so that it won’t miss the joist, stud, or rafter.
6. Use the building code pattern for walls, floors, and roofs. Always check the plans for special nailing patterns. (Most shear walls have special patterns.)
Installing Hold-Downs (while walls are being built)
1. Locate wall hold-downs on plans and check details.
2. Locate holes to be drilled for hold-downs, anchor bolts, and through-bolts.
• Measure location for through-bolts.
• Center hold-downs on plates.
• Center hold-downs in post or align with anchor bolts.
3. Drill holes.
4. Nail post into wall.
5. Nail sheathing to wall.
6. After wall is standing, install hold-downs, bolts, washers, nuts, and through-bolts.
7. Tighten all bolts and nuts.
Installing Hold-Downs (after walls are built)
1. Select a work area (large, close to material).
2. Check the plans for the location, quantity, and other details of hold-downs.
3. Collect all material and tools needed.
4. Spread hold-down posts for common drilling (Cut if necessary.)
5. Mark hold-down posts for drilling.
6. Drill for posts with holes 1/16" larger than the bolts.
7. Loosely attach hold-downs, bolts, washers, and nuts to posts.
8. Spread hold-downs to installation location.
9. Drill holes for through-bolts if necessary.
10. Place hold-down in wall.
11. Place through-bolts into hold-downs where required.
12. Tighten all nuts.
13. Nail posts to plates.
14. Nail sheathing to posts.
Teaching installing hold-downs after walls are built
oivd^e
Teaching installing hold-downs while walls are being built
1. Remove temporary braces only after the walls have been secured so that they will not move.
2. A sledgehammer provides a fast and easy way to remove the braces.
3. Knock a number of the braces off at one time. Be careful that no one steps on the nails before you remove them.
4. Put the removed braces together.
5. Hit the point end of the nail to expose the nail head.
6. Use a crowbar to remove the nails.
7. If you do not have many braces, a hammer is an easy way to remove them.
