ESTIMATES FOR A ROOF

A HOUSE

Determining the quantity of materials needed to cover and shingle a roof is rather easy. First, measure the roof to deter­mine its square footage. Add the width of both sides of the roof and multiply that number by the length of the roof. Let’s look at an example: A roof with an overall width of 28 ft. and a length of 46 ft. has a total area of 1,288 sq. ft., which I’d round up to 1,300 sq. ft.

FIGURE FELT PAPER FIRST. The first material you will need is felt paper. The coverage you can obtain from a roll of felt paper varies, but it’s often 300 sq. ft. (to make sure, ask your building-materials supplier). Divide 1,300 sq. ft. by 300 sq. ft. for a total of 4.33 or 41/3 rolls. Buy five rolls of felt paper, because you’ll need the extra to compensate for overlap and to seal around the plumbing vents.

SHINGLES COME IN BUNDLES AND ARE ORDERED BY THE SQUARE. One bundle of standard-size shingles covers 33.3 sq. ft. Three bundles cover 100 sq. ft. (10 ft. by 10 ft.), which is called a square. It takes 13 squares (39 bundles) to cover a 1,300-sq.-ft. roof. Order at least two extra bundles to make up for the ridge cap, the valley lap, and waste.

In addition to the shingles, you’ll need a ridge vent. Measure the length of the ridge to determine the size you’ll need. Depending on the manufacturer’s recommendations, vents can extend all the way across the ridge or to within 2 ft. of the roof’s edge at each end.

DON’T FORGET THE NAILS. Buy 7/s-in. roofing nails for the shingles (about 1 lb. per square) and 11/2-in. nails for the ridge vent (about У2 lb.). Buy coil nails if you are using a pneumatic nailer. If the eave overhangs will be exposed, buy 2 lb. of 5/s-in. roofing nails; longer nails that penetrate the roof sheathing are unsightly. You’ll also need about 5 lb. of plastic-head roofing nails to hold the felt paper in place on a roof this size. Add a tube or two of asphalt caulk to cover any exposed nails and to seal around the plumbing vents.

Подпись: Back in the days when I was a roof shingler, I hardly ever saw asphalt or fiberglass (composition) shingles. Being a shingler meant working with wood shingles. Now in most parts of the country I see wood shingles used more often on the sides of buildings than on roofs. Composition shingles are more popular because they are faster to install and more resistant to fire. Give some thought as to the color and style of the shingles that you want on your house. A new style of architectural shingle that casts a shadow has become popular. Light-colored shingles reflect more heat than dark ones do. For this reason, people living in the southern part of the United States tend to prefer light- colored shingles. People living further north often select darker shingles. Lay out the shingles With some simple layout, your shingles can look like a professional installed them. Poorly laid shingles may keep out water, but they just don’t look appealing. Admittedly, not many people visit your home just to see whether your shingle pattern is pleasing to the eye, but good workers take pride in doing things right. When I was framing tract houses (500 at a time), I knew roofers who could start in one corner and shingle an entire roof without snapping a chalkline and do a neat, proper job. That’s skill. The rest of us need to snap a few lines to keep the materials oriented correctly. BASIC MEASUREMENTS. Before snapping a chalkline for the first shingle course (the starter course), determine the distance the shingles will extend beyond the drip edge. Here in Oregon, shingles typically lap over the edge by about Vi in. I worked on houses in Georgia where the shingle overhang was about 2 in. They drooped in the hot sun and provided the roof with a nice-looking detail. Just be aware that a large shingle overhang presents a greater surface area to heavy winds, making them more vulnerable and likely to tear or rip off. Check Don’t let shingles get sunburned. Don’t store asphalt shingles in the sun, unless you’re going to use them right away. The tar strips can melt and seal the shingles together into a big, useless mess. If you must store shingles, put them in the shade or cover them with a light-colored tarp to reflect the heat.

the shingle manufacturer’s recommendations for overhang.

As shown in the illustration at right, a stan­dard three-tab shingle measures 12 in. wide by 36 in. long. Each of the three tabs measures 12 in. across. (Dimensional or metric shingles are a bit larger. To install them, read the instructions printed on the package.) If you want 12-in. shin­gles to hang over the edges by ‘/2 in., for example, measure ПУ2 in. from the outside edge and snap chalklines around the roof’s perimeter. VERTICAL LAYOUT LINES. Sometimes referred to as bond or offset lines, vertical layout lines keep shingles aligned and ensure that you don’t end up with a narrow section of shingle when you get to the edge of the roof. There are different ways to establish vertical layout lines. The best method I’ve seen is explained in the sidebar on p. 138. My thanks to Habitat veteran Anna Carter and other volunteers, who figured out this vertical layout technique. HORIZONTAL LAYOUT LINES. Once the vertical layout lines are in place, you can lay

 

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SHINGLE ANATOMY AND NAILING DETAILS

 

36 in.

 

Tar strip

 

3/4 in.

 

3/4 in.-

 

in.

 

Nails between slots and tar strips

 

7/8-in.

roofing nails

 

out the horizontal lines. To do this, you must know the reveal—the part of each shingle that remains exposed (“to the weather”) after the next course is installed. On standard shingles, this distance is usually 5 in. Therefore, on a 12-in.-wide shingle, 7 in. will be covered by the next course. Some manufacturers recommend

 

Snapped with red chalk, vertical and horizontal layout lines ensure proper shingle alignment and al­low shingling work to go quickly.

 

ESTIMATES FOR A ROOFESTIMATES FOR A ROOF



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Updated: 18 ноября, 2015 — 9:16 дп