Fiberglass Insulation

Ninety percent of the homes in the United States are insulated with fiberglass insulation. There has been much debate as to whether or not fiberglass is a human carcinogen, and for a period of time fiberglass insulation was labeled with the warning “probable human carcinogen.” Although the material did not change in any way, the labeling was dropped. Whatever the case may be, fiberglass is by no means a healthful substance. Fiberglass insu­lation can release both particulate matter and gaseous contaminants into the air from form­aldehyde binders in the fibers and asphalt in the backing. There are numerous reports link­ing fiberglass to pulmonary disease in pro­duction workers and installers.1,2 Although healthier alternatives exist, they are gener­ally more expensive and may not be as readily available. However, since the cost of insulation comprises a very small percentage of the over­all building cost, even doubling this figure will not constitute a large increase in the cost per

with a moisture meter. If you find a damp spot you will have found a place with the potential for mold growth. The longer it has been wet, the greater the risk that mold has grown. Suspect areas can be tested for mold.

Even if a moisture meter does not detect a damp area, that does not mean there is no mold. Often things get wet, mold grows, things dry out, and mold sticks around waiting forthem to get wet again. Just because the building is dry now does not mean the mold is gone. Sometimes when you are looking for mold you just have to start testing the areas that are suspected to have been damp at one time. Since a good percentage of mold prob­lems are due to plumbing leaks, the first places to look are under bathroom and kitchen sinks, inside utility closets, next to hot water heaters, and be­hind the washing machine.

How do you remove mold? If you are clean­ing it from a hard, nonporous surface such as bathtub grout, use a nontoxic detergent and re­move the stains with a hydrogen peroxide-based cleaner. Contrary to popular belief, bleach does not kill mold that has grown in your wall cavities or other porous materials. And even if bleach did kill mold, it would not be recommended since dead mold spores are still allergenic. The properties of toxigenic molds are not neutralized by bleach or disinfectants. Mold needs to be removed. If it is removed, there will be nothing left to kill or sanitize.

If mold is present on porous materials or in inaccessible places such as wall cavities, remedi­ation by a qualified professional is strongly recom­mended. If you are mold sensitive, don’t even think about doing it yourself! Effective remediation square foot of your home. Formaldehyde-free fiberglass insulation is now being produced by major insulation companies and is becoming readily available.

One of the more reasonably priced alter­natives to fiberglass is cellulose spray-in or loose-fill insulation. This product has an re­value of ±3.5 per inch. It can contain corro­sive or toxic fire retardants, but many brands are available with more benign borate-based treatment that also protects against mold and insect infestation. Recycled newsprint is often used as a major component of cellulose insu­lation, which may introduce harmful dioxins into the mix. This type of insulation should not be exposed to the ambient air. Some manufac­turers provide virgin or cardboard content instead (refer to the list of alternative insula­tions below). The printing industry has shifted

to predominant use of soy-based inks making dioxin exposure less of an issue.

Choosing one of the alternate building systems discussed in Division 4 is another op­tion. In most of these systems, the more mas­sive walls themselves provide the insulation.

Fiberglass Batt Products The following brands of fiberglass batt contain fewer harmful chemicals or are encased, thus providing safer installations:

• CertainTeed: Manufactures undyed, un­backed fiberglass batt insulation.

• ComfortTherm: Fiberglassbatts that come prewrapped in polyethylene bags. These have limited application, however, since the bags must be cut open and trimmed wherever spacing is irregular.

• Johns Manville: A line of formaldehyde-

requires specialized equipment, containment, and protective clothing.

To effectively remove mold, porous mate­rials such as wallboard, plaster, insulation, and carpeting need to be cut out and thrown away. Wood may be sanded or wire brushed clean. Even if only a small amount of visible mold is present, there may be hidden mold, When cutting into the walls, using containment and other safety precau­tions may be necessary. At this level the remedia­tion goes beyond the scope of most homeowners. When selecting a professional mold remediation company, consider one that specializes in mold and water damage restoration. Mold grows only where there is or has been water, so the two go together.

Why not try to prevent mold so you don’t have to worry about all this in the first place? Sudden floods from plumbing leaks are responsible for a large number of mold problems. If you have a sud­den flood or a plumbing or roof leak, don’t merely try to dry things out yourself. If things are not dry within 48 hours you may end up with mold. The first 24 hours are critical. Look in the phone book underwater Damage Restoration. Insurance com­panies usually pay for sudden and accidental water damage (not floods from outdoor sources), but they frequently don’t pay for mold, or they place a low cap on what they will pay. Call your insurance company immediately but don’t let a water dam­age problem become a mold problem by waiting for their approval or for an adjuster to visit your house. Have the emergency water damage taken care of immediately. Once it’s dry, you can spend time negotiating with the insurance carrier about the repairs. If mold grows because you did not call

free fiberglass insulation products. Fibers are bonded with a formaldehyde-free ther­mosetting resin.

• Knauf Fiber Glass: Fiberglass insulation products certified by GreenGuard.

Fiberglass Blown-In Blanket System (BIBS)

Loose-fill fiberglass insulation is blown be­hind netting or sheeting. Noncombustible fiberglass fibers contain no chemicals or bind­ers and are inert. The products average R-4 in­sulation value per inch. They include Climate Pro by Johns Manville and InsulSafe 4 Pre­mium Blowing Wool and Optima by Cer — tainTeed.

Alternatives to Fiberglass Insulation

The following alternative insulation systems
can be cost effective if suppliers and applica­tors are located in your vicinity:

• Air Krete:* A cementitious magnesium oxide insulation that is foamed in place.

• BioBased 1701: GreenGuard certified soybean-based polyurethane water-based closed-cell spray-applied foam with an R­value of 5.5 per inch.

• Celbar: Cellulose insulation treated with a borate compound for fire resistance, avail­able in loose-fill or spray-in application. The loose-fill can be ordered without recy­cled newspaper content.

• Florapan: Hempwool insulation, although not available in this country, is used in Eu­rope and can be imported.

• Good Shepherd Wool Insulation: Wool batt and wool rope (for log buildings) in­sulation imported from Canada.

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a water damage restoration company immedi­ately, your insurance company may even hold you responsible.

Professional drying companies will bring in in­dustrial-strength fans and dehumidifiers that will dry the building quickly. They may drill holes in the walls and in the kick plates of bathroom and kitchen cabinets. The insides of walls are usually the last place to dry out and the first place mold is going to grow. Drilling or cutting holes in the walls is frequently necessary to allow air to circulate into the wall cavities.

What else can you do to prevent mold growth? Mold can’t grow without water, so prevent excess moisture in your home. Check for slow plumbing leaks under bath and kitchen sinks and in utility closets. Caulk or grout any cracks in shower tile and cracks or gaps behind and around kitchen sinks.

Maintain the roof. Caulk around exterior doors and windows twice a year. Keep water away from the house. If water collects next to the house when it’s raining, install gutters and change the landscap­ing to drain water away. Keep things dry and mold can’t grow. It’s that simple.

Dan Stih, BSE, CMC, CIEC, is an aerospace engineer, Certified Microbial Consultant, Certified Indoor Environmental Consultant, and Building Biolo­gist. He is the author of Healthy Living Spaces: Top 70 Hazards Affecting your Hea/t/i. Visit healthy living spaces. com for more information about mold.

CASE STUDY 7.3

Updated: 18 ноября, 2015 — 11:44 пп