The Alexandrian heritage

Carthage is defeated in 202 BC, at the end of the Punic wars. This leaves Rome with­out a rival in the western Mediterranean, so she immediately begins her expansion toward Greece and the Orient. This evolution is inexorable, despite some temporary set­backs due to resistance such as that of the king of the Pontus, Mithridate Eupator (in whose land the remains of one of the first water mills has been found, as noted in the preceding chapter). The annexation of Egypt by Augustus in 31 BC effectively ends the Roman expansion toward Asia. After the occupation of the coast of North Africa at the end of the 1st century AD, the Mediterranean becomes the mare nostrum, a sea that is entirely bordered by Roman lands.

One can clearly see the appearance of the Alexandrian heritage in Roman techniques during the Augustin period. The monumental work On Architecture of Marcus Vitruvius Pollio, who lived in the 1st century BC under Julius Caesar and Augustus, paints a vast tableau of techniques for the information of the new emperor. This broad-brush panora­ma integrates the skills of the Alexandrian School from the 3rd century BC. It describes the siphon, whose use, when implemented with Roman know-how, had already made it possible for water from the Aqua Marcia aqueduct to reach Capitol and Palatain (in 144 BC). It also describes use of the Ctesibios pump, lifting water wheels, etc. During the four centuries of prosperity of the Empire – until its economic decline of the 3rd centu­ry AD and the fall of the western Roman Empire in 410 AD – indelible symbols of the power of Rome were left in the development of water supply, water use in the cities, agricultural productivity in the provinces, and the development of maritime commerce. Many of the countless hydraulic structures and installations that were constructed remain with us today as symbols of that power.

CLOSING IN

Windows, Doors, Siding, and Exterior Trim

Each phase of a homebuilding project offers a new set of challenges and rewards, but the work that we do in this chapter is especially exciting. The big, stick-framed box we’ve built is about to receive a beautiful skin, with windows and doors added to make it weatherproof. By the time we’ve fin­ished the tasks in this chapter, the house will show off its finished exterior appearance. And with the inside protected from the elements, we are free to take on all the interior work ahead.

As I mentioned in Chapter 4, it’s common practice in some parts of the country to sheathe wood-framed walls before they are raised rather than after. In other areas, sheathing is eliminated and diagonal steel or wood braces are installed to help walls resist shear forces. Certain types of exterior siding (such as fiber cement or sheets of T1-11 siding) can sometimes be nailed directly to the studs and do not require sheathing underneath.

Before we nail on the siding, we are sheathing this house with two mate­rials that share the same ‘A-in. thickness. Structural wood panels (oriented strand board, or OSB) are used in the corners, where they provide necessary shear strength. To cover the framing between the OSB panels, rigid foam insu­lation board is fastened against the studs and plates. Lighter and less expensive than wood panels, rigid foam sheets are easy to handle, cut, and install. Their insulating value improves the home’s energy performance, augmenting the R-value of the fiberglass batts installed between the studs.

Подпись:CLOSING INWe won’t make much sawdust in this chapter. Instead, we’ll learn which tools and techniques are needed to install vinyl siding and prefinished alumi­num coil stock. This plastic and sheet-metal exterior is quite different from the redwood siding and trim I used earlier in my construction career. Depending

CLOSING IN

The house is almost ready for siding. This phase of construction begins with felt on the roof and sheath­ing on the walls.

 

on your budget, your personal preferences, and local availability, there are many siding and trim possibilities. Out West, where I’ve done the most building, fiber-cement siding is often used; it has been installed on quite a few Habitat houses in western states. There are other affordable, low-maintenance siding options to consider, too. A few of them are described briefly on pp. 162—163.

Other Remarks

It is worth remembering the following when mechanically spreading a layer of SMA mixture:

• Manually scattering mixture over the mechanically placed mixture is not permitted.

• Allowing any vehicles other than rollers on the hot mixture, before it is finally compacted and its temperature drops below the expected level, is not permitted.

• The end of a working lot (the transverse joint) should be finished by cutting; suitable joint bonding ought to be secured prior to laying the next lot—for example, by applying a PMB tape or a special compound (Figures 10.8 and 10.9).

• When executing the SMA layer in separate lanes (i. e., each traffic lane separately), the edge of the first layer should not be cut vertically but with a falling gradient, e. g., of 3:1 (height: width).

• Longitudinal edges should be cut while the mixture is hot. A special cutting wheel installed on a roller is user friendly; it is even more convenient with a metal pusher for the cut mixture located next to the cutting wheel, which eliminates manual removal operations.

• The utmost attention should be paid to the execution of an appropriate and tight longitudinal joint between two SMA layers; it is difficult due to the high content of chippings in mixtures; experiences have proved that the PMB compounds, laid down mechanically, are very effective.

Rehabilitation of Rigid Structures

Rigid culverts with invert wear may be rehabilitated by paving the lower quadrant of the culvert. Where there is no reduction in the structural capacity of the culvert, the invert may be protected from further erosion by placing portland cement concrete or by using shotcrete. Welded wire mesh may be used to strengthen the culvert where it is necessary to do so. For an unreinforced concrete pipe, this will be the case where there is either significant invert wear or longitudinal cracking. Strengthening of a rein­forced concrete pipe may be deemed necessary where there is significant longitudinal cracking, invert wear, or spalling. Dowels should be drilled into the member to be repaired, to provide anchorage for the welded wire fabric.

Cracks and spalls caused by flexural distress may be repaired in rigid culverts by sealing and patching. Spalls may be patched with a mortar – or cement-based material, a procedure that is inexpensive and requires little resource allocation. Cracks may be sealed with either a flexible or a nonflexible sealant. If the crack is continuing to move, and if there will be no loss in the structural capacity of the culvert if it continues to do so (circumferential cracks may be an example), a flexible sealant may be used. If the crack has stabilized, or if additional movement is not acceptable, a nonflexible sealant such as a cement mortar may be appropriate. However, the sealant itself will not prevent additional movement. The underlying cause of the cracking must be dis­covered and appropriate measures such as pressure grouting applied.

Cracking caused by shear failure of the wall section is a cause for immediate rehabilita­tive efforts. The replacement or structural relining of the affected pipe will be necessary.

If reinforced concrete pipes separate at the joints and infiltration or exfiltration occurs, not only must the joint be repaired, but the surrounding embankment must be stabilized. The concrete pipe joint may be sealed by the use of an expansion ring gasket and band to prevent further infiltration or exfiltration. Stabilizing the embankment may be accomplished by pressure grouting.

REHABILITATION

The appropriate method to be used for culvert rehabilitation depends upon the type and size of the culvert, its condition, and hydraulic and economic considerations.

Hydraulic and economic considerations bear on the issue of repair versus replace­ment. If the hydraulic capacity of the culvert is in question, or if a rehabilitation method that would reduce its capacity—either by reducing the waterway or by increas­ing its roughness—is under consideration, a hydraulic analysis is required. In addition, if there will be additional highway construction in the area or if there are plans to widen the roadway in the future, these considerations should be included in the deci­sion of rehabilitation versus replacement.

Pipe replacement is the only method applicable to all pipe types regardless of defects. It is also the most disruptive to the traveling public if done using an open-trench method of construction. As has been previously discussed, jacking or tunneling, at an increased cost, may eliminate this disruption. The advantage is that the hydraulic capacity may be increased and, at the present time, replacement is comparable in cost to relining. However, other methods of rehabilitation will often suffice, as discussed below.

FIXTURES, AND SWITCHES

Although all UL-rated fixtures, switches, and receptacles will satisfy electrical codes, better – quality devices will last longer. Heavy-duty recep­tacles, for example, have nylon faces rather than plastic and metal support yokes that reinforce the back of the receptacle.

Receptacles. Most household receptacles are rated for 15-amp circuits and wired with 14AWG or 12AWG wire. The NEC specifies 20-amp protection for kitchen appliance, garage, and workshop circuits.

 

The NEC specifies GFCI protection for many locations, including bathroom, outdoor, and kitchen counter receptacles, so there are also 15-amp and 20-amp GFCI receptacles. In addi­tion, you can obtain various kinds of specialty 15-amp receptacles, including childproof models that require an adult’s grip to uncover them, weatherproof receptacles that combine cover and receptacle in an integral unit, recessed receptacles in which clock wires can be hidden, covered floor receptacles, and many more. In addition, there are receptacles specifically matched to the plugs of 30-, 40-, or 50-amp appliances. Your electrical supplier can tell you what’s available.

 

PROTIP

When cleaning touch-pad dimmers, wipe with only a clean soft rag, a damp sponge, or a cleaner recommended by the manufacturer. Touch pads are so sensitive that the wrong spray – on cleaner can make them go haywire, causing lights to cycle wildly up and down!

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Fixtures. Lighting fixtures vary greatly, from elaborate multibulb configurations to simple pull-chain porcelain fixtures. Most attach to a ceiling outlet box with two machine screws. Branch-circuit wires attach directly to two screws on the fixture (white wire to silver screw, black to gold screw) or, more commonly, to two color – coded lead wires from the fixture. Metal fixture boxes must be grounded.

Switches. Switches come in a variety of configu­rations. They include single pole, which control lights from a single location; three-way, which control lights from two locations; four-way, which control lights from three locations; rheostats (dimmer switches), which dim and brighten lights gradually; touch-pad dimmers, which respond to finger pressure rather than a mechanical switch; pilot-light combos, whose small bulbs shine when an attic or basement light is still on; switch-receptacle combos; pro­grammable switches; and space-saver switches.

Before installing any of the more exotic switches, make sure switch amperage matches that of the load (electrical demand of an appli­ance or piece of equipment) you’re feeding. And never run appliances or tools on a rheostat- controlled outlet. Rheostats vary voltage, and without full voltage, appliance or tool motors can burn out.

Rough-In Wiring

As noted earlier, electricians distinguish between new work and old work (remodel) jobs, regardless of the age of the building or the extent of the upgrade. New work means that framing is exposed, so you can attach boxes to studs or ceil­ing joists and easily drill holes for cable; whereas remodel wiring usually entails mounting cut-in boxes to finish surfaces and fishing cable through walls or floors to add outlets to existing circuits.

Certainly, the two approaches have a lot in common. But to avoid repetition, the following

 

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The 20-amp receptacle (at right) has a horizontal slot so it can receive a special 20-amp plug in addition to standard 15-amp plugs. Unlike 20-amp receptacles, 15-amp receptacles cannot receive 20-amp plugs. Thus 20-amp receptacles cannot be used on 15-amp circuits.

image484

FIXTURES AND RECEPTACLES

 

Fixtures and receptacles are polarized, so they fit together only one way. On a correct­ly wired light fixture, the neutral wire of the lamp cord connects to the silver screw shell (where the bulb screws in); whereas the hot wire connects to a brass tab inside the bottom of the screw shell. Should you inadvertently touch the side of the screw shell, there’s no harm done. Whereas, if you reverse the order in which wires are attached-known as reversing the polarity—the outside of the screw shell becomes hot (energized) and could shock someone changing a bulb.

Receptacles and plugs are also polarized. A receptacle’s gold screw terminal connects to hot wires and, internally, to the hot (narrow) prong of a polarized plug. The receptacle’s silver screw terminal connects to neutral wires and, internally, to the neutral (wide) prong of a polarized plug. Finally, the green ground screw connects to the ground wire and the U-shaped grounding prong of the plug.

 

image485

Подпись: When installing receptacles in a metal box, wrap electrical tape around the sides of the receptacle to cover and insulate the screw terminals.image486Подпись: lest BEFORE YOU TOUCH ? Before handling electrical wires or devices—or before cutting into finish surfaces around them—disconnect the power to that area and test with a voltage tester to make sure that the power is off. Before doing any work in the vicinity of an existing circuit, disconnect the circuit. Flip off the governing breaker or remove the fuse. (Don't merely loosen fuses. Remove them.) And leave a note on your service panel announcing work in progress, so that others in the house won't inadvertently turn the electricity back on. Подпись: PRO"ГIP Locating ceiling fixtures can be a literal pain in the neck. It's usually smart to determine the approximate position of a ceiling fixture on the floor or over a counter before using a plumb bob or a laser to transfer the location up to the ceiling. 1111

sections discuss their common elements in the context of new work and then examine the specif­ics of remodel wiring. Assume that nonmetallic cable (Romex) is being installed. Brief sections on installing MC cable and conduit will follow.

OVERVIEW

Electricians further divide installations into rough-in and finish phases. After the rough-in, there’s always an inspection by an authority hav­ing jurisdiction (AHJ). The following sequences are greatly oversimplified.

Rough-in phase.

1. Locate and mount boxes.

2 Drill holes, and run cable.

3. Feed cables into boxes, staple cables to studs, and clamp cables to boxes.

4. Remove the sheathing of cables inside boxes, group like wires and cut them to equal length, join ground wires, and fold all wires into the boxes.

Finish phase. The finish, or trim, phase takes place after a rough inspection has been signed off by the AHJ and the finish surfaces have been installed and painted.

1. Strip insulated wire ends, and then splice them together—black to black, white to white. Leave switch hot wires unspliced.

2. Attach wires to receptacles, fixtures, and switches.

3. Push wired devices into the boxes, and screw the devices to the boxes.

4. Screw on the cover plates.

CIRCUIT WIRING

Copper is the preferred conductor for residential circuit wiring. Aluminum cable is frequently used at service entrances, but it is not recommended in branch circuits.

Individual wires within a cable or conduit are color coded. White or light gray wires are neutral conductors. Black or red wires denote hot, or load­carrying, conductors. Green or bare (uninsulated) wires are ground wires, which must be connected continuously throughout an electrical system.

Because most of the wiring in a residence is 120-volt service, most cables will have three wires: two insulated wires (one black and one white) plus a ground wire, usually uninsulated. Other colors are employed when a hookup calls for more than two wires; for example, 240-volt circuits and three – or four-way switches.

BOXES

There is a huge selection of boxes, varying by size, shape, mounting device, and composition. But of all the variables to consider when choosing boxes, size (capacity) usually trumps the others. Install slightly oversize boxes, if possible: They’re faster to wire and, all in all, safer because jamming wires into small boxes stresses connections.

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WIRING

Aluminum wiring was widely used in house circuits in the 1960s and 1970s, but it was a poor choice. Over time, such wiring expands and contracts excessively, which leads to loose connections, arcing, overheating and—in many cases—house fires. If your house has aluminum circuit wiring, the most common symptoms will be receptacle or switch cover plates that are warm to the touch, flickering lights, and an odd smell around electrical outlets. Once arcing begins, wire insulation deteriorates quickly.

An electrician who checks the wiring may recommend adding COPALUM® connectors, CO/ALR-rated outlets and switches, or replacing the whole system.

Note: Aluminum service cable, thick stranded cable that connects to service panels, is still widely used because it attaches solidly to main lugs, without problems.

Capacity. The most common shape is a single­gang box. A single-gang box 3f2-in. deep has roughly 22Й cu. in. capacity: enough space for a single device (receptacle or switch), three 12/2 W/G cables, and two wire nuts. Double-gang boxes hold two devices; triple-gang boxes hold three devices. Remember: Everything that takes up space in a box must be accounted for— devices, cable wires, wire nuts, and cable clamps— so follow closely NEC recommendations for the maximum number of conductors per box.

You can get the capacity you need in a num­ber of ways. Some pros install shallow four­squares (4 in. by 4 in. by 1И in. deep) throughout a system because such boxes are versatile and roomy. If a location requires a single device, pros just add a mud ring cover, as shown in the photo on p. 240. Because of their shallow depth, these boxes can also be installed back to back within a standard 2×4 wall. Thus you can keep even back-

Подпись: VERSUS PLASTIC BOXES Подпись: Metal boxes are sturdy and are available in more sizes than plastic boxes. Some metal boxes can be interlocked for larger capacity. Also, metal boxes are usually favored for mounting ceiling fixtures because steel is stronger than plastic. If code requires steel conduit, armored cable (BX), or MC cable, you must use steel boxes. All metal boxes must be grounded. For most other installations, plastic is king. (Plastic boxes may be PVC, fiberglass, or thermoset.) Electricians use far more plastic boxes because they are less expensive. And, because they are nonconductive, they don't need to be grounded and are quicker to install. However, even if a box doesn't need to be grounded, all electrical devices within must be grounded by a continuous ground. Another reason to buy plastic: Box volumes are stamped on the outside. to-back switch boxes at the same height, from room to room. Shallow pancake boxes (4 in. in diameter by J2 in. deep) are commonly used to flush mount light fixtures.

Mounting devices. The type of mounting bracket, bar, or tab you use depends on whether you’re mounting to finish surfaces or structural mem­bers. When you’re attaching a box to an exposed stud or joist, you’re engaged in new construction or new work, even if the house is old. New-work
boxes are usually side-nailed or face-nailed through a bracket; nail-on boxes have integral nail holders. The mounting bracket for Veco® nonmetallic boxes is particularly ingenious (see the photos on p. 244). Once attached to framing, the box depth can be screw adjusted till it’s flush to the finish surface.

Adjustable bar hangers enable you to mount boxes between joists and studs; typically, hangers adjust from 14 in. to 22 in. Boxes mount to hangers via threaded posts or, more simply, by being screwed to the hangers. Bar hangers vary, too, with heavier strap types favored in walls, where boxes can get bumped more easily. Lighter hangers, as shown on p. 239, are typically used in ceilings, say, to support recessed lighting cans.

Подпись: Box Fill Worksheet* ITEM SIZE (cu. in.) NUMBER TOTAL #14 conductors exiting box 2.00 #12 conductors exiting box 2.25 #10 conductors exiting box 2.50 #8 conductors exiting box 3.0 #6 conductors exiting box 5.0 Largest grounding device; count only one 1 Devices; two times connected conductor size Internal clamps; one based on largest wire present 1 Fixture fittings; one of each type based on largest wire Total *Table based on NEC 370-16(b) and adapted with permission from Redwood Kardon, Douglas Hansen, and Mike Casey, Code Check Electrical® (The Taunton Press). Подпись: A four-square box with a mud ring has plenty of room for incoming cables, connectors, and a receptacle. Yet four-square boxes are shallow enough to install back-to-back in a 2x4 wall.

Cut-in boxes. The renovator’s mainstay is cut-in boxes because they mount directly to finish sur­faces. These boxes are indispensable when you want to add a device but don’t want to destroy a large section of a ceiling or wall to attach to the framing. Several types are shown in the top photo at right. Most cut-in boxes have plaster ears that keep them from falling into the wall cavity; what vary are the tabs or mechanisms that hold them snug to the back side of the wall: screw – adjustable ears, metal-spring ears, swivel ears, or

Подпись: Romex cable connectors. From left:plastic push-in connector, two-cable hit-lock connector, 7o-in. NM clamp with locknut, and metal box with internal clamps.

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bendable metal tabs (Grip – loks™). Important: All cut-in boxes, whether plastic or metal, must contain cable clamps inside that fasten cables secure­ly. That is, it’s impossible to sta­ple cable to studs and joists when they are covered by finish surfaces, so you need clamps to keep the cables from getting tugged or chafed by metal box’s edge.

Clamps. Every wiring system— whether nonmetallic (Romex), MC, or conduit—has clamps (connectors) specific to that sys­tem. Clamps solidly connect the cable or conduit to the box so there can be no strain on elec­trical connections within the box and, as important, Romex clamps protect cable sheathing from burrs created when a metal box’s knockouts are removed.

CIRCUIT WIRING

Подпись:GETTING BOX Edges FLUSH

Use an Add-a-Depth ring ("goof ring") to make box edges flush when an outlet box is more than ‘A in. below the surface—a common situation when remodelers dry – wall over an existing wall that’s in bad shape. To prevent the metal goof ring from short-circuiting screw terminals, first wrap electrical tape twice around the body of the receptacle or switch.

Inspection of Rigid Structures

Inspection of reinforced concrete pipe should focus on problems with alignment, joints, and the wall.

The alignment of the culvert may be inspected visually. Misalignment may be caused either by poor installation practices or by subsequent settling of the pipe or the backfill. In any case, the pipe should be periodically monitored to ensure that the con­dition does not worsen. Close inspection of the joints may reveal conditions that will lead to an increase in the misalignment of the structure.

Joints should be inspected for cracks, separation, exfiltration, and infiltration. Cracks and separation of joints are detrimental to the culvert only insofar as they increase the possibility of infiltration and exfiltration. Infiltration is the inflow of water and the accompanying fines during times of high groundwater when the flow in the pipe itself is low. If the inspection is made during this time period and infiltration is occurring, it will be evident. If the inspection is made during a period when high groundwater is not present, but infiltration has occurred, there may be evidence of residual fines and silt at the joints. Infiltration can cause the loss of backfill and even­tually lead to a failure of the roadway above as shown in Fig. 5.45.

Exfiltration is the outflow of water from the pipe into the surrounding backfill. This may cause piping, a loss of backfill material carried away by the outflowing water. This can create problems both with the roadway above and with the culvert itself, which can lose structural integrity because of the loss of side support. If exfil­tration is occurring, it may be observed when the flow is relatively low by inspection of the joints. In addition, there may be some evidence of piping at the outlet end of the culvert, where undermining and the deposition of fines may be present.

Whereas loss of backfill support would be evidenced by excessive deflection in a flexible culvert, rigid culverts will not exhibit this condition. Despite the loss of back­fill support, there may be little or no sign of distress in the wall of the culvert.

The walls of concrete pipe should be inspected for longitudinal and transverse cracks and spalls and wearing of the invert. Longitudinal cracks at the pipe crown or invert (cracks that run lengthwise down the culvert) are indicative of high flexural stresses in the pipe. As the pipe is loaded, it tends to deflect downward and outward. These deflections cause the inside of the pipe at the crown and invert to be in tension as well as the outside of the pipe at the springlines. If the pipe is subjected to a high load, longitudinal cracks may develop at these locations. Because the pipe is buried, inspection of the longitudinal cracks located at the springline on the outside of the pipe is not possible. However, the longitudinal cracks at the crown and the invert will be evident if they exist. Cracks 0.01 in (0.25 mm) or less in width are consid­ered to be hairline cracks and are of minor importance. Larger cracks should be noted and monitored.

Longitudinal cracks located between the crown or invert and the springline are usu­ally caused by shear failure of the wall section. If this type of cracking is visually observed, it is imperative that the cause of the cracking be investigated further. If a shear-type failure is determined to be the cause of the cracking, a rehabilitation or replacement strategy needs to be implemented immediately since the load-carrying capacity of the pipe has been compromised.

Inspection of Rigid Structures

FIGURE 5.46 Illustration of transverse (circumferential) cracking in concrete pipe because of differential settlement. (a) Properly prepared bedding evenly distributes loads. (b) Improperly prepared bedding results in stress concentrations. (From "Culvert Inspection ManualReport No. FHWA-IP-86-2, FHWA, 1986, with permission)

Transverse cracks (cracks extending around the circumference of the pipe) are caused by differential settlement along the length of the pipe. This can be caused by either unsuit­able foundation material or poor installation practices. These cracks are usually not struc­tural in nature but can lead to spalling or subsequent corrosion of the reinforcing steel. Figure 5.46 illustrates transverse cracking resulting from improperly prepared bedding.

Invert wear on a reinforced concrete pipe or box culvert will be indicated by rutting of the surface or rust stains on the surface. In the extreme case, there will be exposed reinforcement. All of these conditions lead to a reduction in the structural adequacy of the culvert. Where the reinforcing is exposed, the bond is broken between it and the concrete and the reinforcing is not able to carry the intended stresses.

Unreinforced concrete pipe, whether cast in place or precast, should be inspected for invert wear and cracking. Because the concrete itself must take the flexural stresses, any reduction in thickness due to abrasive wear is of concern. For that reason, if rutting of the invert is evident, an attempt should be made to determine the amount of loss of section. The culvert should be reanalyzed for its structural capacity using this changed section to determine whether or not rehabilitation or replacement is necessary. If lon­gitudinal cracks are present in unreinforced concrete pipe, the modulus of rupture has been met or exceeded and the flexural capacity of the pipe has been reached. As previ­ously mentioned, only those cracks at the crown and the invert may be easily detected.

(See “Culvert Inspection Manual,” Report No. FHWA-IP-86-2, Federal Highway Administration.)

Laboratory Measurements

Contaminants may be held both in pore water and on/in the solids fraction of soil samples. Often it is desirable to know how much contaminant could be released from the sample. Simple separation of the pore water (e. g. by a centrifuge method) will not enable us to know how much contaminant might be released from the solids by desorption and leaching. To find this information, extraction tests of some kind need to be performed in which the contaminant is encouraged to move from the solids into the liquid phase by the arrangement of the tests. This is the subject of the first part of this section. Once the liquid phase has been extracted, chemical tests can be performed on the contaminated water – this is described in the second part of this section.

7.6.1 Extraction Methods

7.6.1.1 Introduction

Soils are complex matrices made up of numerous constituents with different and variable physical and chemical properties. Such constituents present variable capac­ities of interactions with pollutants, which drives the partitioning between the liquid and the solid phases. Pollutants of soils can thus be dissolved in the solution, can be adsorbed or make complexes with organic or inorganic constituents, or can be par­tially or totally transformed (bio-geo-chemical dynamic) (ADEME, 1999). All these forms are in relation and can, according to the type of matrix and the properties of the pollutant or external factors, induce an increase or a decrease in the mobility and (bio) availability of pollutants. These different forms can be extracted selectively from the matrix thanks to laboratory extraction methods using appropriate chemical reactants (Tessieretal., 1979; ADEME, 1999).

The environmental performance of a material is rather based on release than on total content of potentially dangerous constituents (van der Sloot & Dijkstra, 2004). Selective extraction procedures allow the assessment of the geo-chemical distribution of pollutants in the solid matrix (Colandini, 1997), and therefore the choice of extraction methods depends on the purpose of the investigation. This section essentially deals with inorganic pollutants.

Organic pollutants are often insoluble in water, though may be miscible by sur­factants (e. g. detergents) or may exist in water as emulsions. Alternatively, the water and the organic chemical may be self-segregating leading to layered “oil” and other fluids, their relative positions dependent on relative density. Interaction of the or­ganic fluid and solid is complex, depending largely on surface chemistry effects which will not be explained here (see e. g., Yong et al. (1992) for further informa­tion). Sorption of organic fluid is largely limited to organic solids.

Paver

The appropriate passage of material through the paver plays a key role in the proper spreading of a mixture. After starting in the hopper, the mixture is moved by slat con­veyors (with flow gates in older equipment) to augers and then under a screed. During each of these stages the following significant parameters affect the final result:

• The hopper should be fitted with independently lifting wings, and its shape should eliminate places from which the mixture does not slide to the slat conveyor. Such “dead areas” or “cool corners” create accumulations of cool mixture and cause other problems (see Chapter 11). For the same reasons, the insulation of wings is desirable.

• Care should be taken so that the mixture does not adhere to the walls of the hopper where it cools off fairly quickly. These effects can be seen in various forms of segregation (see Chapter 11). It is perhaps worth dedicating one of the paving crew to systematically throw the cooled remains of mixture down in to the middle of the hopper, particularly when work is done on cool and windy days.

• Completely emptying the hopper of mixture should not be permitted. Newly delivered material should be added to the hopper when it is still filled to about 20% of capacity.

• Augers are intended to divide the mixture across the width of the screed plate; the quality of the layer’s surface depends, among other things, on appropriate adjustments to the augers. The amount of mixture supplied to the augers should be constant; it can be controlled by setting the slat conveyors’ speed and allowing an adequate opening of the flow gates (if applicable).

• The distribution of mixture at the middle of the paver screed plate has a sig­nificant influence on the segregation of an SMA mixture. In some machines, there is a feeding screw without a large chain transmission on the axis of the paver; rather the feeding screw is propelled from outside by hydraulic engines and intersecting axis gears.

• The screed plate must be fitted with a heating system. A number of solu­tions are available and include power supplies, heating fuels, and gas burn­ers. A properly heated screed enables the appropriate travel of the mixture without dragging and pulling out particles.

• Screeds are fitted with vibration systems and rammers. The frequency and amplitude of vibrations and rammers’ strokes should be compatibly matched.

• To ensure quality of the placed layer, a constant paver speed should be maintained. Stoppages should be avoided.