Wooden Support Posts

Wooden support posts are available in shaped sizes, as engineered products, and as timber posts. The shaped sizes are described by their nominal dimensions, such as 4 in X 4 in (100 mm X 100 mm). This is their size prior to the surfacing required to provide smooth and straight posts. Their actual size is typically less than the nominal size. A 4-in X 4-in (100-mm X 100-mm) post will therefore have an actual size of 3.5 in X 3.5 in (90 mm X 90 mm). The engineered products are made from laminated or pressure-glued wood and nonwood recycled products. Timber posts are round in shape.

All wooden posts are of breakaway design, with the intended fracture of the post near the base and less than 4 in (100 mm) above the ground. The post features that influence fracture include the size of the post, effective cross-sectional area, embedment depth, type of soil, and the species of wood. The majority of wood post tests have been conducted using grade 2 southern yellow pine posts.

Shaped Wood Posts. The most common size wood post used for single sign installations is the 3.5-in X 3.5-in (90-mm X 90-mm) support. This support should be buried directly in strong soil to a depth of at least 36 in (920 mm). The cross-sectional area of this post is sufficiently small that drilled holes are not needed to provide a weakened section.

A 3.5-in X 6-in (90-mm X 140-mm) post installed in strong soil will provide acceptable performance upon impact without reducing the cross-section. Tests have shown, however, that the 3.5-in X 6-in (90-mm X 140-mm), when installed in loose or

TABLE 7.3 Required Modifications to Shaped Wood Posts

a. Modifications

in U. S. Customary units

Post size, in

Hole size at 4 and 18 in above ground level, in

31; x 3/2

None

312 x 5/2

112

512 X 5K

2

512 X 7K

3

b. Modifications in SI units

Post size, mm

Hole size at 100 and 460 mm above ground level, mm

90 X 90

None

90 X 140

40

140 X 140

50

140 X 190

75

sandy soil, is unacceptable when impacted by a small vehicle. Single wood posts of that size installed in weak soil should be modified with 1.5-in-diameter (40-mm) holes to be crashworthy. The holes should be centered at 4 and 18 in (100 and 460 mm) above the ground line and perpendicular to the roadway centerline.

Table 7.3 provides the modifications required for acceptable performance of various shaped wood post sizes. The holes in each case are drilled at 4 and 18 in (100 and 460 mm) above the ground line and perpendicular to the roadway centerline.

Typical details for installation of shaped wood posts by direct burial and concrete methods are presented in Fig. 7.12. The 6-in X 6-in (140-mm X 140-mm) post should be set in unreinforced concrete to help ensure that the post fractures upon impact. To make it easier to remove a broken stub, a post can be wrapped with 0.5-in-thick (13-mm) Styrofoam prior to filling with concrete.

90 50 0ІА HOLES

2750

CROSS SECTION 90×90 OR 90X140

STYROFOAM

910

Some states have used larger shaped wooden posts, such as 6 in X 8 in (140 mm X 215 mm), with appropriately sized holes to reduce the cross-section area. These holes provide a weak section that appears acceptable, but the increased mass of these posts and lack of testing result in unpredictable impact performance. Shaped wooden posts larger than those that have been crash-tested should not be used. If larger posts are required, then a multiple-post configuration, slip base design, or other alternatives should be used.

Engineered Wood Posts. A number of relatively new products have been developed for use as sign supports. These include engineered wood product posts made from recycled plastics and wood chips, and laminated veneer lumber posts. The Microllam laminated posts in 8 in X 8 in (200 mm X 200 mm) and in 15 in X 8 in (380 mm X 200 mm) have been accepted for use. These posts, manufactured by the Trus Joist MacMillan Corporation, have a wall thickness of 1.25 in (32 mm) and mitered 45° corners. The post is placed in predrilled holes and backfilled. The posts require four 1-in-diameter (25-mm) holes drilled on the two sides parallel to the direction of travel. Two of the holes are at 3 in (76 mm), and the other two holes are at 18 in (457 mm) above ground height. A saw cut parallel to the ground that connects each set of holes is required.

Timber Poles. The majority of wooden sign-support systems consist of square or rectangular shapes. However, round timber poles, up to 7.5 in (190 mm) in diameter of southern pine, grade 2, have been accepted for use by the FHWA [25, 26]. The acceptable sizes and required holes to provide acceptable breakaway performance are presented in Table 7.4.

TABLE 7.4 Timber Wood Post Requirements

a. Requirements in U. S. Customary units

Timber post

Required

Effective

diameter, in

hole size, in*

area, in2

4.0

None

0.126

4.5

None

0.160

5.0

None

0.197

6.0

0.75

0.239

6.5

1.25

0.251

7.0

2.00

0.246

7.5

2.75

0.240

b. Requirements in SI units

Timber post

Required

Effective

diameter, mm

hole size, mm*

area, mm2

100

None

81

115

None

103

127

None

127

150

19

154

165

32

162

178

51

159

190

70

155

*Holes are centered at approximately 4 in (100 mm) and 18 in (460 mm) above ground, with their axes horizontal and in a plane parallel to the sign face.

Setting a Pedestal Sink

Installing a pedestal sink takes planning, a lot of adjusting, and two people. For starters, determine well in advance the height of the 2x blocking needed to anchor the sink, so you can cut that board into stud walls well before the drywall goes up.

Preattach the sink’s hardware before mount­ing it on the pedestal. Next, level the pedestal base, shimming it as needed. Ribbed plastic shims (also called ribbed stability wedges) work well for this task because their ribs keep them from slipping, even if it’s necessary to stack wedges on a badly out-of-level floor. Once the base is level, set the sink atop it and check it for level in two directions—front to back and side to side—using two torpedo levels, as shown in the left photo on p. 295. Chances are, you’ll need to reset the sink several times to get it level and stable because sinks and pedestals are often not perfectly mated.

Once you’re pleased with the sink’s placement, put a pencil in the back of the sink and mark the locations of the lag-screw holes onto the wall. Remove the sink, predrill the holes, start the lag screws, replace the sink, and check for level again. When the sink is level and the lag screws line up to the pilot holes, lift the sink slightly so a helper can slide out the pedestal, attach the drainpipes, slide back the pedestal and reset the sink, and finish tightening the washered lag screws. But don’t overtighten or you’ll crack the porcelain. Attach the supply risers top and bottom, test for leaks, and you’re done.

Подпись: I Sink-Mounting DetailsПодпись: For rimless and self-rimming sinks, first set the mounting device or sink edge in plumber's putty, which will compress.Подпись: RIMLESS SINKПодпись: Plastic laminateПодпись: Plumber's putty or caulkПодпись: Sink rim Sink lipПодпись: Rim clipimage603Подпись: Clear image605"Подпись: SELF-RIMMING SINK

those shown above. Wall-mounted models slip down into a bracket, which must be lag screwed to blocking attached to studs—preferably let into the stud edges. Level the sink front to back and side to side.

Connect the drain. With the sink or lav in place, connect the drainpipe. To the drain stub sticking out of the walls, glue a threaded male trap adapter, which will receive a slip coupling. Slide the trap arm into the coupling, but don’t tighten it yet. The other end of the trap arm turns down 90° and, being threaded, couples to an adjustable P-trap, which you can swivel so that it aligns to the tailpiece coming down from the lav. The other end of the P-trap has another slip coupling, into which the sink tailpiece fits. When trap
pieces are correctly aligned, tighten the slip couplings.

Kitchen sinks are much the same, except that the upper part of a sink tailpiece is threaded to tighten to the bottom of a strainer body. To drain double sinks, use the hookups shown in "End – Outlet Continuous Waste,” on the facing page. Back-to-back lavs or sinks can also share a com­mon drain, by using a figure-5 fitting (see the bottom photo on p. 277).

Connect supply pipes. To each supply pipe stub-out, attach a shutoff valve, typically an angle stop with a compression fitting. Slide the angle stop’s h-in. socket over the stub-out, and tighten the fitting so that the ferrule inside compresses and forms a positive seal. Alternatively, you can sweat /2-in. male threaded adapters onto the stub – outs, wrap Teflon tape on the threads, and screw on a shutoff valve with a h-in. threaded female opening.

Riser attachments depend on whether you install rigid chromed tubing, which inserts into a compression fitting on the angle stop, or a flexi­ble braided supply line, which has nuts on both ends. Rigid tubing must be shaped with a tubing bender and cut to exact length, whereas braided supply can be easily twisted or looped so it fits.

STEP 5 INSTALL THE DECKING AND STAIR TREADS. the ready supply of redwood decking has disap­peared along with the big trees. Cedar decking is available in some areas, but at a premium price. More and more people are using plastic decking material or deck boards that are a com­bination of wood chips or sawdust and recycled plastic. Although the up-front cost of this high – tech decking is greater than that of PT wood, the new materials don’t warp, crack, or require regu­lar finishing treatments to maintain an attractive appearance. They are worth considering

If you’re installing wood decking, keep in mind that many boards have a tendency to cup because of their circular grain structure. If you see a curve in the end grain of a board, lay it so the curve forms a hill rather than a valley. Should cupping occur sometime in the future, water will run off rather than pool. Exposed PT or cedar decking needs to be treated with a good deck finish every other year or so.

On narrow decks, the boards are often installed at a right angle to the house. I usually attach the first board on the end of the deck where the stairs are (or will be). Let the deck board overhang the end framing by about 1 in.

I cut the boards slightly longer than the deck. With the boards a bit long, you can snap a chalkline and cut them off evenly so everything looks neat and proper.

I use 16d nails as spacers between wood deck­ing boards. Placing one nail near the house and

Подпись: Anticipate wood shrinkage. Pressure-treated decking boards shrink after installation. If you allow for a J/s-in. space between boards during installation, expect that gap to be J/4 in. to ys in. after shrinkage. If you want to end up with a smaller gap between boards, simply butt them together during installation.another near the edge of the porch maintains consistent spacing. Where a board crosses a joist or beam, drive two decking screws. Those steel screws have a galvanized or polymer coating that protects against rust, and their coarse threads drive quickly and hold much better than nails do. To install l’T-in.-thick decking, use 3-in. screws. To install 5/4 boards, 21/2-in. screws will do. Although it takes a bit more time, I predrill the screw holes in the decking with a 3/i6-in.-dia. bit. This makes it easier to pull the boards tightly against the framing and just about eliminates the possibility of splitting a board.

When you reach about 6 ft. from the end beam, calculate how many more boards will be required to cover the distance, and check whether the distance is equal along the led­ger and along the rim joist. You may need to fine-tune the spacing between boards to restore parallel orientation and to make sure the final board is of a reasonable width.

Once all the deck boards are in place, snap a chalkline across the front edge about 1 in. from the rim joist, then cut them straight with a circular saw. Tack a lx to the deck to guide the saw and ensure a good-looking, straight cut. Take your time and do a good job. This is finish work, and it must look right.

STEP 6 INSTALL THE RAILINGS

Most codes require railings only when a deck is more than 30 in. off the ground, but you may want to build a rail on a lower deck anyway, for appearance if not for safety. The basic structure of a typical deck or porch railing consists of posts, rails, and balusters, which are also called uprights or pickets.

Even with basic PT lumber, many designs are possible. For example, you can eliminate the bottom rail, extend the balusters down, and fasten them to the rim joist. You can include a 2×6 “cap” installed over the tops of the posts and over the top rail. And you can use a chop – saw to bevel one or both ends of each baluster to give your work a sleeker appearance. There are even decorative PT balusters, along with shaped top and bottom rails that are grooved to hold baluster ends. Also available are quality vinyl railings that are attractive and maintenance-free. As I mentioned at the beginning of this chapter, it’s worthwhile to investigate the design possibili­ties, so take a drive around your neighborhood and visit a lumberyard or home center that car­ries these building supplies. No matter what the design, make sure the railing meets code require­ments (see the sidebar on the facing page).

STEP 5 INSTALL THE DECKING AND STAIR TREADS. the ready supply of redwood decking has disap­peared along with the big trees. Cedar decking is available in some areas, but at a premium price. More and more people are using plastic decking material or deck boards that are a com­bination of wood chips or sawdust and recycled plastic. Although the up-front cost of this high - tech decking is greater than that of PT wood, the new materials don’t warp, crack, or require regu­lar finishing treatments to maintain an attractive appearance. They are worth considering

TWO WAYS TO HANG STAIR STRINGERS

1. WITH METAL STRAPS 2. WITH A PLYWOOD HANGER BOARD

Nail hanger board to landing.

 

Stringer

 

Landing

 

Nail hanger board to stringer.

 

Stair stringers can be attached securely to the landing with either a metal strap or a hanger board. On exterior stairs, use PT plywood.

 

STEP 5 INSTALL THE DECKING AND STAIR TREADS. the ready supply of redwood decking has disap­peared along with the big trees. Cedar decking is available in some areas, but at a premium price. More and more people are using plastic decking material or deck boards that are a com­bination of wood chips or sawdust and recycled plastic. Although the up-front cost of this high - tech decking is greater than that of PT wood, the new materials don’t warp, crack, or require regu­lar finishing treatments to maintain an attractive appearance. They are worth consideringSTEP 5 INSTALL THE DECKING AND STAIR TREADS. the ready supply of redwood decking has disap­peared along with the big trees. Cedar decking is available in some areas, but at a premium price. More and more people are using plastic decking material or deck boards that are a com­bination of wood chips or sawdust and recycled plastic. Although the up-front cost of this high - tech decking is greater than that of PT wood, the new materials don’t warp, crack, or require regu­lar finishing treatments to maintain an attractive appearance. They are worth considering

PORTFOLIO OF HOUSES

Square feet: 172

House width: 8’-6” House length: 20’

Road Height: 12’-3”

Dry Weight: 7000 lbs

Great Room: 9%‘ x 5%’ Kitchen: 5%’ x 4%’

Bedroom: ІУЇхАУ*

Bathroom: 2’x7%’

Ceiling height: 7’ 6” – sizes are approximate

РОРОМО

The Popomo is different than my other portable homes in that it does not have a pronounced ga­bled roof or a loft. It does have a stainless steel boat fireplace, sink and stovetop, a refrigerator, wet bath, a full-sized bed, and a clos­et. The large glass wall is intend­ed to face south during winter for excellent solar gain. The house is shown at right with hot rolled cor­rosion resistant steel siding and at left with the same siding and the wheels removed.

1. Kitchen 2.Bedroom 3.Bath 4. Great Room

Square feet: 65

House width: 7’

House length: 11’

Road Height: 12’-9”

Dry Weight: 3000 lbs

Porch: 2’x 1 %’

Great Room: 4%’ x 5%’ Kitchen: 4’ x 4’

Bathroom: 3%’х2’

Ceiling height: 6’ 2”

Loft height: 3’ 2”

-sizes are approximate

Resilient Flooring

Although easy clean-up, economy, and a soft walking surface have made sheet vinyl a popu­lar flooring for kitchen and utility areas, vinyl flooring is associated with health hazards. The vinyl chloride fumes it emits are a known car­cinogen. In addition, in hot or humid climates requiring air conditioning the vinyl will trap moisture, which can promote delamination and mold growth or rot. We do not recom­mend vinyl in the healthy home.

Natural linoleum, also known as battleship linoleum, is made from linseed oil, pine resins, wood powder, and jute and is free of synthetic chemicals. When newly installed, this flooring does have a noticeable odor that some people do not tolerate. Cork tile is another natural choice for resilient flooring. The natural smell of the cork is also evident at first unless the cork is presealed. Both linoleum and cork are available with factory-applied acrylic finishes. In hot and humid climates these finishes may impede vapor permeability, causing moisture to be trapped under the surface.

Sources for Natural Linoleum and Cork Flooring

Natural linoleum and cork flooring are avail­able from the following sources:

• Armstrong/DLW Linoleums: Natural li­noleums in a variety of colors with natural jute backing

• Bangor Cork Company: Cork tiles and sheet flooring and linoleum

• Building for Health: Cork and battleship linoleum flooring products

• Dodge-Regupol, Inc.: Cork tile available unfinished, waxed, or with polyurethane matt or gloss finishes

• Duro Design: Cork flooring supplier

• Eco Design/Natural Choice: Cork floor tiles and adhesives

• Forbo Industries: Natural linoleum floor­ing products

• Hendricksen Naturlich: Cork, natural li­noleum, and other natural floor coverings and adhesives

• Jelenik Cork available through Sustain­able Flooring: A variety of patterns and colors, planks or tiles, and acoustical un – derlayment

• Natural Cork Co. Ltd.: Cork in a variety of colors, patterns, and finishes

Adhesives for Natural Linoleum and Cork Flooring These adhesives are acceptable for natural li­noleum and cork flooring:

• AFM Safecoat 3 in 1 Adhesive

• Auro No. 383 Natural Linoleum Glue

• BioShield Natural Cork Adhesive

• Envirotec Health Guard Adhesive #2027

• Forbo L910 Linoleum Sheet Adhesive and T940 Linoleum Tile Adhesive

• Sinan Company No. 380 and No. 390 for cork flooring

• Taylor Meta-Tec 2084 Tuff Lok X Link

for cork flooring

Carpeting

Carpeting has been associated with a grow­ing number of health problems. In a typical

carpet, toxic chemicals may be found in the fiber bonding material, dyes, backing glues, fire retardant, latex binder, fungicide, and an­tistatic and stain-resistant treatments. During a 1992 congressional hearing on the potential risk of carpets, the US Environmental Protec­tion Agency (EPA) stated that a typical carpet sample contains at least 120 chemicals, many of which are known to be neurotoxic. Outgas – sing from new carpeting can persist at signif­icantly high levels for up to three years after installation. Once discarded, carpet is neither renewable nor biodegradable. In major cities, discarded carpeting accounts for 7 percent of the landfill mass.

Synthetic latex, the most common carpet backing, contains approximately 100 differ­ent gases, which contribute to the unpleasant and harmful “new carpet smell.” Most under­pads are made of foamed plastic or synthetic rubber and contain petroleum products that cause pollution at every stage of production and continue to pollute once installed. Felt backings are generally less polluting. We have specified safer carpet backings below. Typi­cally, brands labeled hypoallergenic will be odorless.

Carpet Installation

There are two ways to install wall-to-wall car­peting: tack-down or glue-down. Tack-down installations are preferable because they do not destroy the floor surface and because the carpet is easier to remove and can thus be partially recycled. Tacking strips are nailed, screwed, or glued down around the perime­ter of the room. If the strips are glued, it is im­portant to use a low-toxic glue. The carpet and underpad are then stretched and the edges are folded with the underside tacked down.

CASE STUDY 9.3

Plasticity Theory Based Models

The plasticity theory based models require the definition of yield surface, plastic potential, isotropic hardening laws, and simplified accumulation rules (Bonaquist & Witczak, 1997 and Desai, 2002), or kinematic hardening laws (Chazallon et al., 2006). Some of these models have been used for finite element modelling of pave­ment. Now, the main concepts of these models are presented.

The model developed by Bonaquist is based on the plasticity model developed by Desai et al. (1986). These two models differ from each other by the simplified calculation method for large number of cycles. Consequently, the basis of the Desai model (Desai, 2002) is first presented and the different accelerated analysis proce­dures of each model are introduced.

The Desai formulation is based on the disturbed state concept which provides a unified model that includes various responses such as elastic, plastic, creep and micro-cracking. The idea is that the behaviour of a deforming material can be ex­pressed in terms of the behaviour of the relatively intact or continuum part and of the micro-cracked part. During the deformation, the initial material transforms continuously into the micro-cracked state and, at the limiting load, the entire ma­terial element approaches the fully micro-cracked state. The transformation of the material from one state to another occurs due to the micro-structural changes caused by relative motion such as translation, rotation and interpenetration of the particles and softening or healing at the microscopic scale. The disturbance expresses such micro-structural motions. Under repetitive loading, an accelerated procedure exists. From experimental cyclic tests, the relation between the deviatoric plastic strain trajectory and the number of loading cycles can be expressed as a power function of the number of cycle. Pavement finite element modelling feasibility has been carried out with this model (Desai, 2002). The к-0 model was used for the elastic part and the model requires the following parameters:

• Elastic behaviour: кь к2, v.

• Plastic behaviour:

о Rupture and characteristic parameters: 3R, n, y.

о Plasticity parameters: (3, ab nb Nr, b.

Bonaquist’s approximate accelerated analysis is based on the total plastic strain at the end of each cycle and defined by a power function of the cycle number which depends on the ratio: maximum deviatoric stress and the corresponding deviatoric stress at rupture (for the same q/p ratio). Instead of the Nr and b parameters a parameter %b is required.

The model developed by Chazallon and Hornych (Chazallon et al., 2006) is based on the model of Hujeux (1985) in its simplest formulation. This formulation is a non-associated elasto-plastic model and reproduces the saturated monotonic behaviour of sand and clay. A kinematic hardening has been added to reproduce the accumulation of plastic strains under repeated loadings. Each cycle is calculated, nevertheless, by a simplified approach based on the decoupling of the calculation of the elastic strains and the plastic strains. A pavement finite element modelling feasibility has been carried out with this model, see Hornych et al. (2007).

The elastic part is computed with the anisotropic Boyce model and the model requires the following parameters:

• Elastic behaviour: Ka, Ga, у and n.

• Plastic behaviour:

о Rupture and dilatancy parameters: C0, M, and Mc. о Monotonic plasticity parameters: в, PC0, a, b.

о Cyclic plasticity parameters: rf, Puc, Plc.(where the subscript l and u indi­cate loading and unloading, respectively – see Figs. 9.5 and 9.6).

Fig. 9.5 Yield surfaces during loading and unloading in the p — q space (Chazallon et al., 2006). With permission from ASCE

Fig. 9.6 Representation of the influence of the Puc/ic parameters on plastic strains when an un­loading and a reloading occur (Chazallon et al., 2006) With permission from ASCE

Steel U-Channels

The steel U-channel support is the most common type of single sign support used in the United States [19]. The steel U-channel is a unidirectional support available in different sizes and stiffnesses from a variety of manufacturers. The most popular steel U-channel sizes are 2, 2.5, 3, and 4 lb/ft (3, 3.7, 4.5, and 6.0 kg/m) (weight is prior to making the fastening holes). The channel is constructed with %-in (9.5-mm) holes on 1-in (25.4-mm) centers to eliminate the need for drilling to mount the sign panel. The posts are available with baked alkyd resin, with gloss enamel paint, or hot-dipped galvanized to inhibit corrosion. The stiffness of U-channel posts is a function of the material from which they are made, and the method by which they are shaped. The literature refers to billet steel or rail steel as the material from which U-channel is constructed. Rail steel is old railroad track—which has a high carbon content—that has been rerolled into the U-channel shape. The high carbon content results in a steel that is strong but relatively brittle. Billet steel is newly formulated steel. The most common grade of billet steel is A36, which is a relatively low-carbon “mild” steel, but billet steel can be manufactured with sufficient carbon to equal or exceed the strength characteristics of rail steel. For years the FHWA required “rerolled rail steel” instead of billet steel, since such a speci­fication helped ensure a high carbon content. High-carbon billet steel U-channel posts are available from manufacturers, but most state specifications still refer to “rail steel.”

a. Area, ft2, for U. S. Customary units

Post size, lb/ft

Height from ground to center of sign for 70-mi/h wind, ftf

6

7

8

9

10

11

12

2.5

7.5

6.5

5.4

5.4

4.3

4.3

3.2

3.0

9.7

8.6

7.5

7.5

7.5

5.4

5.4

4.0

12.9

11.8

10.8

9.7

8.6

7.5

7.5

b. Area,

m2, for SI units

Height from ground to center of sign for 113-km/h wind, mf

Post size, kg/m

1.8

2.1

2.4

2.7

3.0

3.4

3.7

3.7

0.7

0.6

0.5

0.5

0.4

0.4

0.3

4.5

0.9

0.8

0.7

0.7

0.6

0.5

0.5

6.0

1.2

1.1

1.0

0.9

0.8

0.7

0.7

*Sign sizes are for typical U-channel of rerolled rail steel. fHeight measured from ground to center of sign panel.

Crash tests indicate that, under some test conditions, high-carbon steel U-channel sign posts perform differently from those made of steel having a lower carbon content. The reason for this performance difference is that high-carbon steel posts, because of their low fracture toughness, break under high-speed impacts [22]. Lower-carbon steel posts bend and shape themselves to the front of the vehicle, thereby forming a tether­ing hook. Billet steel posts that have carbon content similar to that found in rail steel posts match the performance of the rail steel posts when crash-tested.

Table 7.2 presents the maximum allowable sign area for one-piece rail steel U-channel installations. The table is for a maximum allowable pressure resulting from a 70-mi/h (113-km/h) wind velocity. State guidelines should be followed for the expected wind veloc­ities for different regions of the state and to obtain support sizes for other wind velocities.

Base-Bending Installation. One-piece base-bending U-channel post installations are usually obtained by driving the post directly into the ground with a sledge hammer, manual post driver, or air-operated post driver. Drive caps should be used to protect the top end of the post while it is being driven into the ground. U-channel posts should not be encased in concrete unless a breakaway design is used. Typical embedment depth is 3 ft (920 mm), and for ease in removing damaged posts, the driven depth should generally not exceed 3.5 ft (1070 mm). The patented RIB-BAK design of a U-channel has a ribbed back and flange. This design provides extra strength, a flush back-to-back sign-mounting surface, and a ridge for mounting channel locking clips. An alternative to the direct burial system is the V-loc anchor from Foresight Industries. The V-loc anchor is currently the only alternative method of anchoring an unspliced U-channel post that has been found acceptable by FHWA. This anchor system uses locking inserts to hold the U-channel securely into the V-shaped anchor piece. Upon impact, the post will bend at the ground line and may pull completely out of the V-loc anchor.

Breakaway Installations. The repair and performance of large U-channel posts can be eased by using a breakaway design. Breakaway design in U-channel installations is obtained by developing splices at ground level. The splice consists of attaching the signpost to an anchor piece that is embedded in the soil or a concrete foundation. Splice designs include the Eze-Erect by Franklin Steel, the Minute-Man by Marion

TRAFFIC

FIGURE 7.8 Breakaway devices for U-channel posts. (a) Eze-Erect splice joint. (b) Details of Eze-Erect splice. (c) Minute-Man coupler. Dimensions shown as mm; 100 mm = 4 in.

Steel, and various lap designs [23]. The intent of the splice designs is for the splice to fail upon impact. The commercially available splices are designed so that the signpost remains attached to the embedded anchor piece and passes beneath the impacting vehicle. This is accomplished by designing the splice device to partially fracture or to completely fracture a frangible coupling. To prevent vehicle snagging, the anchor piece should not extend more than 4 in (100 mm) above the ground. Two commercially avail­able breakaway designs are presented in Fig. 7.8. The Minute-Man consists of a frangible coupling with a backup plate, to hold the anchor and sign-support pieces together. The Minute-Man coupler makes the U-channel a multidirectional support system.

The generic splice (Fig. 7.9) does not require special hardware [24]. It is acceptable for use on 4-lb/ft (6-kg/m) U-channel, or less, installed in strong soil. The generic splice consists of an overlap of 6 in (150 mm) and uses two %s-in (8-mm) bolts spaced 4 in (100 mm) center to center. Spacers, %; in (8 mm) thick, are used to separate the U – channel signpost and the anchor piece. The spacer must be strong enough to transfer the load between the webs of the signpost and the anchor piece. The signpost should be mounted behind the stub.

The anchor piece of all breakaway devices should be the same size as the signpost and must not extend more than 4 in (100 mm) above the ground. A splice configuration, as in Fig. 7.10, does not provide protection for the anchor and increases the probability of snagging or of the sign’s entering the passenger compartment. Breakaway devices improve the safety characteristics of the post and generally reduce maintenance costs. They should always be used when the sign support is placed in concrete areas. If the sign can be impacted from different directions, then a breakaway device similar to that shown in Fig. 7.8 should be used. Splicing the signpost to the anchor piece with bolts, with or without the splice breakaway device of Fig. 7.8a, does not make the U-channel support a multidirectional sign support.

Mounting Concerns. The U-channel post is approved for use in strong soils when impacted from a frontal direction. Installing the support in weak soils or in locations where

BASE POST

FIGURE 7.9 Details of generic splice configuration. Dimensions shown as mm. Conversions: 8 mm = %5 in, 25 mm = 1 in, 100 mm = 4 in, 150 mm = 6 in, 950 mm = 37 in.

FIGURE 7.11 Large anchor plate for use with U-channels in weak soil locations. Dimensions shown as mm. Conversions: 10 mm = % in, 3.43 mm = >8 in, 2.5 mm = 1 in, 75 mm = 3 in, 100 mm = 4 in, 150 mm = 6 in.

it can be impacted from more than one direction requires more than direct burial to make the U-channel perform as required. If the U-channel is installed in weak soil, an anchor plate, similar to that shown in Fig. 7.11, can be used to hold the sign in its proper position and to help ensure proper operation upon impact. In addition, the generic splice can allow the signpost to separate from the base. The possible consequences of this separation, and the trajectory of the sign assembly, should be considered prior to use of the generic splice.

Install the stringers and treads

If you’ve done the stair layout and cutting cor­rectly, the stringers should fit against the rim joist (or beam), with the level cut or cleat for the top tread located 71/2 in. down from the top of the deck framing. Snap or mark a line at that level on the rim joist so you can make sure the stringers are aligned.

There are several ways to secure the string­ers to a deck beam or rim joist. Sometimes the stringer butts against a post, so it can simply be nailed to the post and to the beam or rim joist. In other situations, a metal strap can be nailed to the bottom of the stringer, then to the beam or rim joist (see the bottom photo on the facing page). Still another option is to fasten a PT ply­wood hanger board to the top plumb-cut edge of each stringer, then nail the board to the beam or rim joist (see the illustration on p. 190).

For a set of 36-in.-wide closed-stringer stairs, cut a hanger board 14 in. high and 39 in. wide, then nail it flush with the top of the deck’s

Install the stringers and treads

Use one stringer to make another. Use a completed stringer as a pattern to lay out a new one.

Подпись:Подпись:Подпись:Install the stringers and treads2×6 rim joist. Then measure down 71/2 in. from the top of the rim joist, mark the board on each end, and strike a line across it at that height. Drive 8d galvanized nails through the back of the hanger board and into the stringers below the 2x 6 rim, making sure the top of the upper cleats on both outboard stringers and the top notch on the interior stringers land on the line you snapped on the hanger board. To stiffen the top of the stairs, cut and install PT 2×4 block­ing between the stringers.

Next, cut a 36-in.-long PT 2×4 kicker board and nail it into the notch of the middle stringer and to the outside stringers. The kicker board can be fastened to the concrete landing or base with hardened nails, steel pins, or concrete anchors.

Techniques LEARNING THE VOCABULARY OF STAIRS

 

EVERY NEW ENDEAVOR COMES WITH a new vocab­ulary that you need to learn before you can get started. Building stairs is no exception. Once you learn the names of the different parts and how they relate to each other, you can begin to put together a set of stairs.

Stringers: The diagonal members (here, PT 2x12s) that support the treads and risers. Three stringers are needed for a 36-in.-wide stairway, four for a 48-in.-wide stairway. A cut or open stringer has tread and riser cutouts and can be used in the middle of a stairway. An open stairway is framed with cut stringers. A closed stringer has no cutouts; instead, cleats are used to support the treads.

Closed stringers can be used on only the sides of a stairway.

Riser: The vertical part of a step. For safety’s sake, the height of risers should always be around 7 in. This measurement is also known as the unit rise.

Tread: The horizontal portion of a step, or the place where you set your foot. Treads should be approximately 11 in. wide.

Landing: The level space at the top and bottom of a stairway (and sometimes in the middle if a set of stairs changes direction). A 3-ft.-wide stairway should have a landing that is at least 3 ft. square.

Total rise: The vertical distance that a stair­way travels from the lower landing to the upper landing. This is always measured from finish floor to finish floor.

 

Total run: The horizontal distance that a stair­way travels from the leading edge of the first tread to the trailing edge of the last.

Kicker board: The PT 2×4 or 2×6 that is secured to the bottom landing. The kicker board helps hold the stringers in place.

 

STAIR VOCABULARY

 

Landing

 

*Z2* ns* ю к» *s»

 

Kicker board, fastened to landing and stringers

 

Total

Plumb n*se cut

  Techniques LEARNING THE VOCABULARY OF STAIRS

Total run

 

A stairway’s total rise is always from finish floor to finish floor.

 

CUT AND CLOSED STRINGERS

Deck or porch platform

 

Cut stringer Tread board

 

Kicker board
Cleat

 

Closed stringer

 

Concrete landing

 

finish floor—in this case, from the concrete slab to the top of the porch decking. Let’s call it 30 in., a fairly typical porch height. Divide the total rise (30 in.) by 7 in., the standard riser height, for a total of 4.3 risers. Round that to the closest whole number (in this case, 4) and divide your total rise of 30 in. by that number. This gives you an individual

 

riser height of 7.5, or 7И in. Now you have the riser height and the number of risers.

You can also determine the total run of the stairs; this will tell you where the concrete landing or base for the stringers should be. Do a rough sketch of the stairs, then multiply the number of treads by the tread width (in this case, 11 in.). Keep in mind that you can either

 

Techniques LEARNING THE VOCABULARY OF STAIRSTechniques LEARNING THE VOCABULARY OF STAIRSTechniques LEARNING THE VOCABULARY OF STAIRSTechniques LEARNING THE VOCABULARY OF STAIRS

Seven is the magic number. When determining the number and measurement of risers in a stairway, always start by dividing the total rise of the stair (the vertical distance from landing to landing) by 7.

The unit rise (the height of each step) should be between 7 in. and 73A in.

Techniques LEARNING THE VOCABULARY OF STAIRS

run the stringers flush with the top of the deck (the top tread is even with the deck sur­face) or cut the stringers so that the top tread is one step down from the deck surface. The latter approach is more common; that’s what we did on the Charlotte house.

Lay out and cut the stringers

There are two basic types of stringers for stairs. Cut, or open, stringers have square cutouts to support treads and risers. Closed stringers use cleats rather than cutouts to support treads. To give a deck or porch stair­way a trim look, I like to use closed stringers on the sides. Cut stringers must be used in the middle. Stringers for outdoor stairways are usually cut from PT 2x12s. Stairs with three risers can be cut from 4-ft. stock, but it’s a bit tight. Stairs with four risers can be cut from 6-ft. stock.

A framing square and a pencil are all you need to lay out stair stringers. Although they aren’t necessary, a pair of stair gauges (small clamps that screw onto a framing square) make the layout process faster and just about foolproof. Attach one gauge at the IVi-in. measure (the rise) on the narrow part of a

 

Plumb cut for 11-in. tread at bottom and 72/2-іn. riser

Techniques LEARNING THE VOCABULARY OF STAIRS

 

2. DROPPING THE STRINGER

Techniques LEARNING THE VOCABULARY OF STAIRS

cut from only the first riser to make each rise equal after the treads are screwed in place.

 

3. NOTCHING FOR THE KICKER BOARD

 

Plumb

cut

 

USE A SQUARE TO LAY OUT A STAIR STRINGER. Mark the square cutout areas with a framing square. The tread and riser measure­ments on the square align along the edge of the board.

 

Techniques LEARNING THE VOCABULARY OF STAIRS

Techniques LEARNING THE VOCABULARY OF STAIRSTechniques LEARNING THE VOCABULARY OF STAIRSTechniques LEARNING THE VOCABULARY OF STAIRS

Techniques LEARNING THE VOCABULARY OF STAIRS
Подпись:Techniques LEARNING THE VOCABULARY OF STAIRSПодпись: USE ONE STRINGER TO MAKE ANOTHER. Use a completed stringer as a pattern to lay out a new one.Techniques LEARNING THE VOCABULARY OF STAIRS

framing square (the tongue). Place the other gauge at the 11-in. measure (the tread width) on the wider part of the square (the blade). Now lay out the stringer, working from the bottom to the top. If you don’t use stair gauges on a framing square, simply align the 7/4-in. and 11-in. measurements over the edge of the stringer, as shown in the photo on the facing page. After marking the first tread and riser, move the square up, place the tread mark directly on the riser mark, scribe the second tread and riser, then do the third.

Then use the square to mark a level cut at the bottom of the stringer and a plumb cut at the top.

The bottom of the stringer must be “dropped” to allow for the thickness of the first tread. If you were to screw a VA-n.-thick tread on the first riser (7A in. tall), then the first step would be 9 in., which would cause a lot of people to trip every time they used the stairs. To make each riser the same height, cut 1/1 in. from the bottom of the stringer. Finish laying out this stringer by marking a notch for a2x4 kicker board. Its best to cut the kicker – board notch at the back of the stringer.

When the layout is complete, it’s time to cut the stringer. Start the cuts with a circular saw, closely following the lines (see the top photo at right). Then use a handsaw or a jig­saw to finish the cuts at the intersection of the tread and the riser so that you don’t ovcrcut and weaken the stringer.

A CUT STRINGER SERVES AS A PATTERN FOR A I CLOSED STRINGER. Once you’ve completed a cut stringer, use it as a pattern for other cut and closed stringers in the same staircase (see the bottom photo at right). The plumb and level cuts at the top and bottom of the closed stringer are identical to those on the cut stringer, but they are the only cuts you need

to make on a closed stringer. Using the cut stringer as a pattern, mark the tread lines on the closed stringer to indicate where the cleats must be installed.

Fasten l/l-in.-square PT wood cleats below the tread lines on each closed stringer (see the top photo on p. 186). Drive four 2!4-in.-long deck screws to secure each cleat. Manufactured

Подпись:Techniques LEARNING THE VOCABULARY OF STAIRSПодпись: A METAL STRAP IS USEFUL FOR INSTALLING STRINGERS. Here, the author uses a metal strap to secure the top of a center stringer to a porch beam. A temporary 2x4 cleat, nailed across all three stringers, helps maintain the alignment as the stringers are installed. Techniques LEARNING THE VOCABULARY OF STAIRSmetal cleats are also available, if you prefer.

The treads will be screwed to the cleats after all the stair stringers have been installed.

Codes and Regulations

Until building codes catch up with the environmental and social realities at hand, the question of how to meet or beat minimum-size standards remains. If guerilla housing, variances, or pushing to have your local codes changed hold no attraction, going with the flow may be your best bet. Most of the U. S. and Canada employ what is called the International Building Code. In spite of its name, the IBC is only really used in the U. S. and Canada. While the code is often tailored at the local level, it usually reads pretty much as listed here.

All houses shall have:

– At least one room of no less than 120 sq. ft.

– Ceilings of no less than 7 ft. (except 6’-8” in unfinished basements)

– No habitable room of less than 70 sq. ft. with no dimension smaller than 7’ (except kitchens)

– A window (or second door) in every bedroom of no less than 5.7 sq. ft. total. Each must be at least 24” H x 20” W and no more than 44” above the floor

– A landing or floor on each side of all exterior doors that is no less than 36” deep x the width of the door

– Hallways of no less than 36” wide

– A door to the exterior that is no less than 36” W x 6’-8” H

– Egress for habitable basements (window wells of 9 sq. ft. or greater and 36” minimum any horizontal dimention

– Stairs of no less than 36” wide with 6’-8” headroom (except spiral stair­ways = 26” W x 78” H)

– Stairs with risers of no more than 7 3/4” and treads of no less than 10”.

Trailer Design Considerations (May vary by state)

– All trailers must have fenders or splashguards.

– When it is dark, all trailers must have stop lamps, a license plate light, and turn signals.

– Every trailer over 1500 pounds needs to be equipped with brakes.

– Trailers with brakes require an emergency brake system designed to acti­vate in the event that the hitch fails.

– Tail lights are required (magnetic lights are okay).

– Trailers over 80” wide must have amber reflectors on each side and the front. Red reflectors are required in the rear.

– No vehicles in combination shall measure more than 65’ in length.

– No vehicle may be wider than 102” without a special permit.

– Mirrors, lights, etc., may extend beyond 102”, but not in excess of 10” on each side.

– No vehicle or load may exceed 13’-6” from pavement to top (14’, some areas).

If you are making a corridor that is 20’ wide, you can make it out out of concrete; if it is 10’ wide, you should use stone; if it is 6’ wide, use fine wood; but if it is is 2’ wide, you should make it out of solid gold. – Carlo Scarpa