STEP5 Install the Decking and Stair Treads

With the floor and stair framing complete, you can start installing the decking boards and stair treads. I mostly use 2×6 PT decking, because the ready supply of redwood decking disappeared along with the big trees.

Cedar decking is available in some areas, but at a premium price. More and more people are using plastic decking material or deck boards that are a combination of wood chips or sawdust and recycled plastic. Although the up-front cost of this high-tech decking is greater than that of PT wood, the new mater­ials don’t warp, crack, or require regular fin­ishing treatments to maintain an attractive appearance. They are worth considering.

If you’re installing wood decking, keep in mind that many boards have a tendency to cup because of their circular grain structure. If you see a curve in the end grain of a board, lay it so the curve forms a hill rather than a valley. Should cupping occur sometime in the future, water will run off rather than pool. Exposed PT or cedar decking needs to be treated with a good deck finish every other year or so.

Подпись: Helping HandПодпись: Anticipate wood shrinkage. Pressure-treated decking boards shrink after installation. If you allow for a Уз-in. space between boards during installation, expect that gap to be V* in. to % in. after shrinkage. If you want to end up with a smaller gap between boards, simply butt them together during installation.On narrow decks, the boards are often installed at a right angle to the house. I usually attach the first board on the end of the deck where the stairs are (or will be). Let the deck board overhang the end framing by about 1 in. I cut the boards slightly longer than the

Подпись:STEP5 Install the Decking and Stair TreadsATTACH THE STAIR TREADS. It takes two boards to form one step. With open risers, an outdoor stairway is easier to keep clean.

deck. With the boards a bit long, you can snap a chalkline and cut them off evenly so every­thing looks neat and proper.

I use 16d nails as spacers between wood decking boards. Placing one nail near the house and another near the edge of the porch maintains consistent spacing. Where a board crosses a joist or beam, drive two decking screws. Those steel screws have a galvanized or polymer coating that protects against rust, and their coarse threads drive quickly and hold much better than nails do. To install VA-in.- thick decking, use З-in. screws. To install 5/4 boards, 2A-in. screws will do. Although it takes a bit more time, I predrill the screw holes in the decking with a %6-in.-dia. bit.

This makes it easier to pull the boards tightly against the framing and just about elimi­nates the possibility of splitting a board.

When you reach about 6 ft. from the end beam, calculate how many more boards will be required to cover the distance, and check whether the distance is equal along the ledger and along the rim joist. You may need to fine-
tune the spacing between boards to restore parallel orientation and to make sure the final board is of a reasonable width.

Once all the deck boards are in place, snap a chalkline across the front edge about 1 in. from the rim joist, then cut them straight with a circular saw. Tack a lx to the deck to guide the saw and ensure a good-looking, straight cut. Take your time and do a good job. This is finish work, and it must look right.

Visco-Plastic Equivalent Models

Visco-plastic equivalent models based on an equivalent time: number-of-cycles re­lationship, have been developed by Suiker and de Borst (2003) for the finite element modelling of a railway track structure and by Mayoraz (2002) for a laboratory study of sand.

Suiker has developed a cyclic densification model. It is based on repeated load triaxial tests carried out on two ballast materials. The idea was to develop a model that captures only the envelope of the maximum plastic strain generated during the cyclic loading process. The unloading is considered as elastic. The plastic deforma­tion behaviour is composed of two different mechanisms namely: frictional sliding and volumetric compaction. In general, both mechanisms densify the material. This model is based on the Drucker-Prager yield surface and Cap surface. The stress space is divided into four regimes (see Fig. 9.7):

(i) the shakedown regime, in which the cyclic response of the granular media is fully elastic.

(ii) the cyclic densification regime, in which the cyclic loading submits the granular material to progressive plastic deformations.

(iii) the frictional regime, in which frictional collapse occurs, since the cyclic load level exceeds the static peak strength of the granular material.

(iv) the tensile failure regime, in which the non cohesive granular material instan­taneously disintegrates, as it can not sustain tensile stresses.

Fig. 9.7 Map of various response regimes in (p, q) plane during cyclic loading (Suiker and de Borst, 2003). Copyright John Wiley & Sons Limited. Reproduced with permission

The model requires the following parameters:

• Elastic behaviour: k1, k2, v; and

• Plastic behaviour:

о Monotonic parameters: pt, hm, h0, p0, d0, dm, Zf, Zc.

о Cyclic plasticity parameters: pt, h0, hm, Zf, af, ac, yc, p0, nf, nc, d0, dm.

The monotonic parameters initialise the state of stress and strains in the railway track structure which are required for the cyclic model.

Mayoraz has developed a visco-plastic equivalent model based on the associated modified Cam-Clay model with no elastic part. Permanent deformations compar­isons with the results of repeated load triaxial tests performed on a sand have been carried out. This model requires only 5 parameters and is based on the Perzyna concept (Perzyna, 1966) developed for visco-plastic creep of clay.

Parameters needed for the model are:

• Plastic behaviour:

о Rupture parameters: M; and о Plasticity parameters: n2, Г, J°nit and в*.

Other Roman ports and navigation works

We should not forget the role of the port of Alexandria during the Roman period, as it closely follows the Ostia complex in importance. The port was built in the Hellenistic period, and we have already described it at the beginning of Chapter 5 (Figure 5.2). A squadron of Roman warships is based at the port, a point of departure for Egyptian wheat bound for Rome (via Pouzzuoli before completion of the port of Trajan). But Alexandria is also an intermediate stop for products coming from Sudan, Arabia, and the extreme Orient. The Romans continue to use and maintain the canal of Necho that we described in Chapter 3. Trajan develops Clysma (Suez) and undertakes repair of the canal.[292] The canal constitutes one of the routes to Arabia, India, and China, without ever really seri­ously challenging the grand ports of the Red Sea (Myos Hormos, on the site called Qoseir on Figure 3.1, and Berenice, formerly Head ofNekheb).

The port of Carthage, the most important of Africa, is also a point of departure for wheat bound for Rome. We have mentioned the wealth of the Roman Cartago earlier, from its refounding by Augustus in 29 BC up until the 7th century AD when it is des­tined to be eclipsed by the modern Tunis. The port has two basins (Figure 6.37), one for military uses and the other for commercial traffic.

Other Roman ports and navigation works Other Roman ports and navigation works

It would be difficult to mention all the other Roman Mediterranean ports. Some are excavated into level ground or in natural creeks, like Carthage and Marseille; others are developed in the mouth of watercourses, as is partially the case of the complex of Ostia, often with the same accompanying problems of sediment management. The port of Leptis Magna, the native city of Septimus Severus, is situated in the mouth of the wadi Labda. This emperor develops the port (Figure 6.38) and erects a lighthouse there. As a typical Mediterranean watercourse, the wadi Labda is subject to rapid and violent floods, and these can endanger vessels or cause other significant damage. As we have

Figure 6.37 The port of Carthage Figure 6.38 The port zone of Leptis Magna (after

(after Scarre, 1995). Scarre, 1995).

seen for some other African dams, a flood diversion structure is built upstream on the wadi Labda. A similar scheme is used by the Romans for Seleucid, the port of Antioch (with a 130-m long tunnel, followed by a 700-m long open cut, 6 to 7 m wide).

The Romans are not great canal builders – even though they maintain and use the Necho canal, or canal of two seas, and rename it the canal of Trajan after this emperor’s work on it. There is some fainthearted thought given to the construction of a canal at Corinth, cutting across the isthmus to enable ships to avoid having to sail to the south of Peloponnese. Caesar, Caligula, and Nero are tempted by this project, and initial work is begun.[293] But there is concern that the sea level may be different from one end of the canal to the other,[294] and that the opening of the canal would provoke a catastrophe. Or perhaps it was simply that the economic stakes were not high enough, for Greece is, under the Empire, more of a symbol than a significant economic player. In any case, the canal was not built in Antiquity.

STABILIZER LUMPS

Stabilizer lumps occur rarely, but sometimes they bring fairly unpleasant consequences. The problem lies in the fact that symptoms may only be seen some time after the placement of an SMA course. Results such as the following are quite spectacular:

• Initial formation of bulging spots in a newly made course

• A spot of mixture that separates from the mat

Both cases are caused by lumps or pieces (Figure 11.6) of an undistributed (unmixed) stabilizer of loose fibers. Moisture absorbed by a stabilizer is able to lift

image112

FIGURE 11.4 An example of randomly scattered circular fat spots of about 1-15 cm in diameter. (Photo courtesy of Krzysztof Blazejowski.)

 

image113

FIGURE 11.5 A circular fat spot about 20 cm in diameter, enlarged. (Photo courtesy of Krzysztof BlaZejowski.)

 

image114

FIGURE 11.6 A big lump of stabilizer incorporated into an SMA course, after removal. (Photo courtesy of Krzysztof Blazejowski.)

 

image115

FIGURE 11.7 Stabilizer lumps incorporated into an SMA course. (Photo courtesy of Marco Schunemann.)

image116

FIGURE 11.8 The closed structure of an SMA course over a large area. (Photo courtesy of Krzysztof BlaZejowski.)

an SMA course enough to be discernible to the naked eye. It also causes the mixture to ravel and create pot holes (Figure 11.7). These situations may happen as a result of the following:

• Wet, loose fibers were applied.

• Loose fibers was added into the pugmill too late—namely, after binder dosing.

• Wet-mixing time was excessively shortened.

• Stabilizers of poor quality were used.

Install the stringers and treads

If you’ve done the stair layout and cutting cor­rectly, the stringers should fit against the rim joist (or beam), with the level cut or cleat for the top tread located ТА in. down from the top of the deck framing. Snap or mark a line at I that level on the rim joist so you can make I sure the stringers are aligned. I

There are several ways to secure the I

stringers to a deck beam or rim joist. Some – I times the stringer butts against a post, so it I can simply be nailed to the post and to the I beam or rim joist. In other situations, a metal I strap can be nailed to the top of the stringer, I then to the beam or rim joist (see the bottom I photo at left). Still another option is to fasten I a PT plywood hanger board to the top plumb – I cut edge of each stringer, then nail the board I to the beam or rim joist (see the illustration I on the facing page). I

For a set of 36-in.-wide closed stringer I stairs, cut a hanger board 14 in. high and I

39 in. wide, then nail it flush with the top of I

the deck s 2×6 rim joist. Then measure down | 7Vi in. from the top of the rim joist, mark the 1 board on each end, and strike a line across it I at that height. Drive 8d galvanized nails I through the back of the hanger board and I into the stringers below the 2×6 rim, making sure the top of the upper cleats on both out – I board stringers and the top notch on the inte* I rior stringers land on the line you snapped on the hanger board. To stiffen the top of the I stairs, cut and install PT 2×4 blocking between the stringers.

Next, cut a 36-in.-long PT 2×4 kicker board I and nail it into the notch of the middle stringer and to the outside stringers. The kicker board

Install the stringers and treads

can be fastened to the concrete landing or base with hardened nails, steel pins, or con­crete anchors.

Now that you know how to build a simple set of stairs—a good skill to learn for its own sake—let me tell you about an alternative to wooden stringers. You can buy manufactured metal stringers with a 7-in. rise (see Resources on p. 278). This means that you will have to control the overall distance (from the concrete landing to the finished surface of the deck) so that its a multiple of 7—either 14 in., 21 in.,

28 in., or 35 in. I like metal stringers because they are galvanized and stand up well out­doors. Holes in the metal stringers allow you to attach treads with screws or small bolts.

KEEPING THE NUMBERS STRAIGHT

Keeping the numbers straight for standard plumbing fixtures doesn’t require a lot of brain space. There are very few numbers to commit to memory. The process gets somewhat more complicated when you are dealing with handi­cap or "accessible" fixtures. We’re done with standard fixtures, so let’s explore accessible fixtures.

HANDICAP FIXTURE LAYOUT

Layouts for handicap plumbing fixtures require more space than what would be needed for standard plumbing fixtures. When you are planning the instal­lation of accessible fixtures you must take many factors into consideration.

There are regulations pertaining to door widths, compartment sizes, fixture locations, and so forth. These rules and regulations are generally provided in local plumbing codes. It’s not necessary for you to commit all the measure­ments to memory, but you need to be aware of them and know where to find the figures when they are needed for design issues.

When you are dealing with a build­ing that requires the installation of handi­cap plumbing fixtures, you find yourself spread between the local building code and the local plumbing code. The two codes overlap when it comes to handicap facilities. Are you, as a plumber, respon­sible for the carpentry work? it depends upon how you look at it. You probably have no responsibility for the width of a door used for access to a bathroom where handicap fixtures will be installed. But, the width of a toilet compartment will af­fect you and your work. Most trades work well together on most jobs, but this is not always the case. If you know that rough framing done by a carpentry crew is going to prohibit you from installing fixtures with proper placement, you should talk to someone about the impending problem. Whether you talk to the carpenters, a carpentry foreman, a job superintendent, or a general con­tractor, you should raise the question of what you perceive to be a problem with the framing work. The quicker potential problems can be caught, the eas­ier it will be to correct them.

Who is responsible for the installation of grab bars? It could be the plumbers or the carpenters. This is an issue that must be addressed before a bid is given for a job. Grab bars are not inexpensive, so don’t make a mistake by omitting them from a bid price where the person you are bidding the job for expects you to include the bars and their installation in your bid. There’s something else to consider on this issue. If you are responsible for the grab bars, you are also responsible for installing proper supports in the framed walls during your rough-in work. Some type of backing, such as a length of framing lumber, must be installed in the wall cavity where a grab bar will be installed. Without the backing, the grab bars will not be solid. Finding out that there is no solid support to secure a grab bar to after a job has finished wall coverings is going to be a real problem. I’ve seen many jobs where back­ing wasn’t installed for wall-hung lavatories and grab bars. This is an expen­sive and embarrassing mistake.

Ostia and the imperial ports of Rome

Rome’s food supply depends on the chain of maritime transport of wheat from Numidia and Egypt. For a long time Rome could offer only minimal port facilities to cumber­some and large loaded boats needing to enter the Tiber at Ostia. Mooring there was especially dangerous when the Auster, an ill-reputed west wind today called the Libeccio, blew. Moreover, access by large boats was made problematic by a shoal. Here is how Strabo describes the situation, in about 25 AD:

“This city has no port, owing to the accumulation of the alluvial deposit brought down by the Tiber, which is swelled by numerous rivers; vessels therefore bring to anchor further out, but not without danger; however, gain overcomes every thing, for there is an abundance of lighters in readiness to freight and unfreight the larger ships, before they approach the mouth of the

river, and thus enable them to perform their voyage speedily. Being lightened of a part of their

81

cargo, they enter the river and sail up to Rome, a distance of about 190 stadia.”01

Boats coming from Alexandria or Antioch at this time, after fifteen to twenty days at sea (and sometimes twice that long), prefer to unload in the bay of Naples, at Pouzzuoli (Puteoli). Their merchandise then continues on to Rome either by land or sometimes in smaller boats capable of sailing up the Tiber. Navigation between Pouzzuoli and Ostia is dangerous, since the coast is low and lacks shelter, and therefore Rome is often threatened with shortages. Plans to create a true port at Ostia are proposed under Caesar and Augustus; these plans are often subject to long dissertations. But the first attempt to implement such plans must await Claudius, whom we have already seen as a great hydraulic entrepreneur. A 70-hectare basin (700 m by 1,000 m), excavated

behind the shelter of a naturally growing barrier island, becomes a first basin of the port.

Two large jetties are constructed to protect it; the most offshore one is built of large limestone blocks tied together by iron grapples cemented with lead;[286] [287] it is 330 m long and 23 m wide. Beyond this breakwater a ship was sunk and filled with sand to serve as a subfoundation for the construction of a four-story lighthouse. This was the great 100-m long ship that had been used by Caligula to bring from Egypt the obelisk that now is in Rome’s Place de Saint-Pierre:

“Claudius created the port of Ostia, constructing two jetties in circular arcs to the right and left, and in quite deep water, a breakwater to block the entrance; to seat this breakwater more solid­ly, one began by sinking the ship that had brought the great obelisk from Egypt; upon it, one constructed a great number of piles supporting a very high tour, destined, like that of Alexandria, to illuminate with its fire, during the night, the shipping route.”°J

Work on the port of Ostia proceeds from 42 to 54 AD. The project is finished after the death of Claudius and inaugurated by Nero, who associates his name with the achievement, without completely claiming it as his own, in naming itportus Augusti: the port of the Emperor. Two canals are excavated from the Tiber, obviously to connect the port to the river, but perhaps also to protect Rome by facilitating the drainage of flood- waters of the Tiber to the sea.[288] Somewhat later, the base of the lighthouse is joined to the west breakwater; other boats are sunk to facilitate the initial construction.

But the works of Claudius at Ostia remain inadequate to meet the needs of the city of Rome. Wheat from Alexandria continues to be offloaded at Pouzzouli, not Ostia. Moreover, the port at Ostia has a tendency to fill with sand from the alluvia of the Tiber brought through the canal(s) that link the river to the port, and from the littoral currents that sweep the alluvia of the mouth of the Tiber toward the north. Therefore Trajan excavates a second basin of 32 hectares from 100 to 112 AD. The basin is in the shape of a hexagon with sides of 358 m, a depth of 5 m, and linked to the first basin (Figure 6.36). A new lighthouse is built at the entrance of the canal linking the two ports. The canal coming from the Tiber is retraced: it constitutes a second mouth of the river and is called today the Fiumicino. The new port is connected to this canal, but little of the Tiber’s flow and sediment circulate through the port, which therefore minimizes silta – tion. The overall project eventually will support and receive all maritime traffic with goods destined for Rome. The work is completed, still under Trajan, by creation of an artificial port at Civitavecchia (Centumcellae) to the north, and by improvements at Terracino, about halfway between Pouzzouli and Ostia, to provide shelter along this

coast.[289]

The vast complex of ports of Claudius and Trajan, called Portus, is further improved and maintained under Septimus Severus, and then under Constantine. The complex remains active until the 5th century AD, but then suffers from the decrease in Roman population following the fall of the Empire, and progressively decays. In the 5th centu­ry the sea level is thought to have risen sufficiently to submerge the barrier island that protects the port of Claudius from the west. At this time work is done to provide protec­tion for the canal that links the two ports.[290] The blocks of Claudius’ large jetty to the northwest become partially disconnected, since the structure, lacking the protection of rock armor, was vulnerable to wave attack. There is intense alluvial deposition in the outlets of the Tiber, from the 15th century, and the port complex ends up being land­locked. The remains of the port of Claudius are now beneath the international terminal of the Rome airport. Today’s traveler therefore arrives at the same spot as did the ships from Carthage, Tarraco, and Massilia in the first century.[291]

Ostia and the imperial ports of Rome

Figure 6.36 The complex of imperial ports of Rome, after Trajan’s work (Le Gall, 1981; Redde, 1983).

ELECTRICAL

Electrical codes and their implemen­tation are normally not very flexible. But costs can still be reduced by several methods within the codes.

Floor plans can often be adjusted to reduce electrical costs by reducing length of wiring or eliminating outlets while staying within the code. For example, since one outlet is needed for each 12 feet of wall, shortening or eliminating walls or moving door locations can reduce wiring, recep­tacles, switches, etc.

If all points requiring heavier appli­ance circuits are clustered and located close to the distribution panel, expen­sive heavy cable can be minimized.

Check the house during construction to make sure extra outlets are not arbitrarily installed. Relocate closet doors or other openings to avoid short walls over 24 inches wide which will require an outlet. Remember outlets are not required in hallways.

In some locations, entire homes are traditionally wired with #12 wire and 20-amp devices for general wiring. However, most codes allow the bulk of a house to be wired with #14 wire and 15-amp devices.

Each required lighting point can be switched by a single switch. Also, bath fans can be switched with the bathroom light. Light fixtures that are not required by code can be pull – chain operated and need not be separately switched.

Smaller homes do not need heavy service load centers. Many can be served by a 100-amp load center. A switched receptacle may be substituted for overhead lights in habitable areas. Only one light fixture is required in a basement. Attic storage or equip­ment service areas require light fixtures. Otherwise, attic lighting is not required.

Extra branch circuits are often routinely installed by electricians to simplify the arrangement of breakers in the panel. Maximize the number of devices on a circuit, and normally one or two circuits per home can be eliminated.

Separate circuits are not required for the refrigerator or garbage disposal. Extra circuits cost about $25 each for additional home run wiring and breakers.

Heavy 240-volt circuits are required for the range, clothes dryer, water heater, electric furnace, and heat pump or air conditioning unit. If house design permits, locating as many of these heavy circuit appliances near the load center will reduce costs.

The large feeder cable required for an electric furnace is very expensive. In addition, if the furnace is located near the breaker panel, a separate discon­nect is not required at the unit, saving between $75 and $100.

Plastic utility boxes reduce costs by about $1 per wiring point and are allowed by most codes.

EXAMPLES FROM THE DEMONSTRATION PROJECTS

Phoenix, Arizona

Homes were designed with duplex outlets located at points of probable use rather than the arbitrary 12 foot minimum. About three outlets per house were saved. Because extra care was taken not to eliminate useful outlets nor to endanger safety of the occupants, the city building department allowed the variance.

In addition, because the units were small and expansion possibilities few, service entrance panels were reduced from 200 to 100 amp. Total electrical costs were reduced by $108 per unit.

Santa Fe, New Mexico

As in Phoenix, the builder was required to comply with all electrical code provisions except the arbitrary spacing of outlets. A well-thought-out layout was submitted based on logical use patterns along with the rationale for outlet locations.

In addition, garage ground-fault interrupters were loop-wired to bathroom outlets, thereby eliminating ground-fault interrupters in bathrooms. Bathroom exhaust fans were eliminated along with overhead light fixtures.

Total electrical savings amounted to $320 per unit.

. Fat Spots of Mastic without Segregation

If porous spots are not visible around the fat spot, this is not a case of classic segrega­tion. We may suppose that the fat spot appeared because of an excess of mastic volume (an error of design). It may also have been caused by too much energy applied during compaction (improperly adjusted or unskillfully applied vibration); this will lead to the crushing of the coarse aggregate skeleton and the squeezing out of the mastic. Then the surface with the bleeding mastic will make up a major part of the surface (which, simply put, is any area where bad compaction was applied). A related prob­lem, described in Section 11.5, describes an SMA surface that is too closed or tight.

11.1 SMALL CIRCULAR FAT SPOTS

Small fat spots with a circular shape of approximately 3-20 cm in diameter may appear on a laid SMA course, randomly scattered without any visible order of occur­rence (Figures 11.4 and 11.5). This type of fat spot hardly ever appears. As usual, their composition should be checked. Most often, mastic and stabilizer (especially loose fibers) can be found in them. They are most often caused by insufficient mix­ing of the SMA components (i. e., insufficient wet-mixing time at the mixing plant).

INSTALLING A TOILET

When you’re ready to install the toilet, remove the plastic bag you inserted earlier in the closet bend to block sewage gases. Place closet bolts in the closet flange if you haven’t already done so.

Set the bowl first. Then attach the tank to the bowl. If you’re re-installing an old toilet, as shown in the bottom left photo on p. 296, leave the parts connected, and set the toilet as one piece. But if it’s a new toilet, setting the base first is easier on your back. Place the wax ring in the closet flange, so that the ring’s plastic funnel centers in the flange. Some manufacturers rec­ommend placing the wax ring on the toilet horn and then inverting the toilet bowl, but the wax ring may not adhere and the funnel may not align.

Have help aligning closet bolts to holes as you set the toilet bowl. Don’t rock the bowl when set­ting it, which could excessively compress the wax ring on one side, creating a gap. Instead, press the bowl down evenly; then use a small adjustable wrench to tighten the nuts gradually, alternating sides, till the bowl is secure. Place a torpedo level atop the bowl edge to see if the unit is level side to side and front to back. If the bowl needs shimming, use plastic shims, which can be chiseled or cut flush to the toilet foot so they’re not visible. Don’t trim the closet bolts till you’ve attached the tank and tested the unit for leaks.

SETTING A PEDESTAL SINK

 

Check the sink for level one last time, tighten the lag screws to secure the sink, and connect the supply risers top and bottom.

 

It usually takes several tries and some fine-tuning to level the pedestal, level the sink in two directions, and then lag screw the sink to a 2x blocking let into the studs.

 

Mount the tank. Standard two-piece toilets have tanks that bolt directly to bowls. In addition to bolt holes, tanks have two fittings on the bottom: a threaded ballcock stem, which is screwed to the supply riser, and a larger flush valve, which is tightened to a spud nut. Typically, a rubber spud – nut washer covers the spud nut and cushions the tank-bowl juncture to prevent leaks; there may also be a separate, preinstalled sponge-rubber gasket to cushion the tank and bowl. Tighten the spud nut and position the spud-nut washer, insert the washered tank-mounting bolts into the bot­tom of the tank, and set the tank atop the bowl so that bolts line up with the holes in the bowl. Carefully follow the manufacturer’s instructions about caulking mating surfaces because some caulking compounds may deteriorate the gaskets.

 

Because the slot in the bank of the pedestal is narrow and the wall is close, there won’t be enough room to tighten slip-nut couplings on the drain. Instead, after starting the lag screws, lift and support the front of the sink while a helper slides the pedestal forward. After connecting the drain fittings, slide the pedestal back, and lower the sink.

 

End-Outlet Continuous Waste

 

11/4-ІП. ОГ

To prevent the tank-bolt threads from turning and cutting into the rubber washers or gaskets,

/

^—11/2-in. tailpieces _____

hold the bolts steady with a long screwdriver as you tighten the nuts on the underside of the bowl

/

Slip-nut trap adapter

shelf, using an adjustable wrench. Moving from

Sanitary tee —^

 

INSTALLING A TOILET
INSTALLING A TOILET

Save fixture invoices and shipping boxes till you’ve inspected fixtures for flaws. You’ll need both to return defective units. Apart from chipped enamel or cracks, the most common toilet flaws are a foot that is not flat, a deformed horn, or bowl and tank surfaces that don’t mate correctly.

 

Elbow

 

Total pipe length includes fitting sockets. P-trap

 

A common assembly for double sinks or lavatories.

 

image606image607

Подпись: INSTALLING A TOILETПодпись:Подпись:Подпись:image610

one side to the other, tighten the nuts snugly.

Use only brass or stainless-steel bolts and nuts. Connect the water supply, fill the tank, flush the toilet several times, and check for leaks. If there’s leaking between the tank and the bowl, tighten the nuts. If there’s leaking only near the foot of bowl, the wax ring may have failed: In this case, pull the toilet and replace the ring. If there are no leaks, trim the closet bolts and caulk around the perimeter of the foot.

Toilet supply connections are essentially the same as sink or lavatory risers. The standard toilet supply riser is 58-in. chrome tubing that attaches (at the top) to a threaded ballcock stem on the underside of the tank, and a 58 by 58 angle stop at the bottom. A better option is a 3з8-іп. flexi­ble braided stainless-steel supply line: It won’t crimp, attaches to the same fittings, and can be easily disconnected.

Bidets. A bidet is easier to install than a toilet. Although a bidet requires hot – and cold-water connections, its wastes are all liquid, so a 154-in. drain will suffice. Mount the bidet base securely, but it doesn’t need to be seated in a wax ring.

In fact, the drain takeoff is similar to that of a tub, which is described next.