Engineering Properties of Soils

The equation for shearing strength S (lb/ft2 or kPa) of a soil may be taken as follows:

S = c + a tan ф (8.3)

where c = cohesion, lb/ft2 (kPa)

a = confining pressure or normal stress, lb/ft2 (kPa) ф = angle of internal friction of the soil, degrees

The shearing strength of the soil should account for the effect of pore water pressure when present. Equation (8.3) can be modified as:

S = c + (a — u) tan ф (8.4)

where u = pore water pressure, lb/ft2 (kPa)

Soil consolidation is produced by load and is associated with changes in soil mois­ture. It is also a function of time. The time required for drainage to occur, which results from the change in soil moisture, is a function of the permeability of the soil and the distance the water must travel in the material to be released. It is clear that consolidation of coarse-grained materials will occur fairly rapidly. This explains the often used assumption that consolidation of such materials under applied load, for example, the load of a retaining wall, generally occurs during the construction of the wall. Thus, long-term settlement is not normally considered to occur. On the contrary, clays and/or silts are relatively impermeable, so that long-term settlement should be anticipated in the design. The designer must consider various options to accommodate this projected long-term settlement. For example, the designer may (1) require preloading to effect the settlement before the wall is constructed, (2) accelerate the consolidation by drilling for and placing sand drains, and (3) decide to build the structure with pile or caisson support systems that are independent of the consolidation.

Traffic Considerations

The structure of the traffic greatly influences the road run-off pollution load. As a general rule, pollution on low-density roads is smaller than on high-density roads. However, the relation between pollution and traffic density is not linear and it is very difficult to predict the run-off pollution from road traffic characteristics, al­though these characteristics have a large role in controlling contaminant fluxes. The pollution of road run-off is also highly dependent on the climatic regime.

Traffic characteristics on roads are defined according to the several criteria. The most general parameter is called annual average daily traffic – AADT – however this parameter doesn’t define the structure of the traffic. Usually, this parameter is further defined through the passenger car equivalent – PCE – or by the proportion of the AADT that is heavy commercial vehicles (HCV). These approaches allow consideration of the number of different types of vehicles.

In low volume roads, run-off treatment procedures usually differ from those used with high volume roads. For mechanical reasons, the traffic volume and road design criteria are, of course, connected. Consequently, the pollution potential of all roads is linked not only to the traffic levels, but also to the design criteria and approach adopted to match that traffic level. If the traffic volumes are low, the road’s design is likely to be thin and the attention to detail to handle runoff and seepage waters is likely to be brief or even absent altogether. Thus, while the risks and volumes of contaminants arising may be less than on a heavily trafficked road, there may also be greater opportunity for these pollutants to enter the local water and ground environments.

If there is no exact legislative demand for run-off and seepage water treatment, the designer must define the treatment procedure according to the traffic density forecast and to the structure. Some national legislations (e. g. in Central Europe) attempt to define technical protection measures based on traffic characteristics (e. g. Brencic, 2001). Criteria are then related to AADT and PCE. However, these criteria are not very satisfactory, over-simplifying the situation, and should be re­considered with new parameters based on potential pollutant equivalents of different types of vehicles being applied instead. In Slovenia, the technical legislation dealing with road run-off pollution was implemented defining classes according to PCE. The legislation defines classes of PCE according to the aquifer types and surface water bodies that are crossed by roads. If the prescribed limit of PCE is exceeded then road run-off treatment should be performed. On the highly vulnerable karstic aquifers the limit is set to 6,000 PCE, on intergranular aquifers the limit is set to 12,000 PCE and on rocks and sediments with low permeability the limit is set to 40,000 PCE.

Bedrock

Bedrock is divided by geologists into three large groups, namely (1) igneous, (2) meta – morphic, and (3) sedimentary. Igneous rocks are those that have resulted from the cooling and crystallization of molten masses of mineral matter and gases either at or below the earth’s surface. Sedimentary rocks consist of the transported and subse­quently indurated products of weathering of previously existing rock types, while metamorphic rocks are frequently defined as those having characteristic textures and mineral compositions that have resulted from high temperatures and pressures and/or hot mineralizing solutions acting on a parent rock. Figures 8.16, 8.17, and 8.18 indi­cate easily recognizable descriptions for field classification of igneous, metamorphic, and sedimentary rock, respectively.

8.3.2 Soils Laboratory Tests

Grain size, shape, and gradation are generally established by sieve analysis. For the finer clays, a hydrometer analysis is necessary. Figure 8.19 depicts a classification of sediment based on grain size.

Atterberg limit tests are performed on fine-grained soils and represent the amount of water present in the voids. The liquid limit (LL), plastic limit (PL), and plasticity index (PI) constitute the Atterberg limits.

FIELD CLASSIFICATION OF IGNEOUS ROCKS

ROCK

TEXTURE

ROCK COLOR AND ESSENTIAL MINERALS

Light gray, white, or pink contains orthoclase and quartz

Dark gray or black contains plagioclase, hornblende, and/or biotite

Dark gray or black contains plagioclase and

pyroxene

Black or green contains augite and/or olivene and/or hornblende

Granular or (course-grained)

Granite

Diorite

Gabbro

Peridotite

Porphyritic and aphanitic (coarse and fine)

Rhyolite

Andesite

Basalt

Aphanitic

(fine-grained)

Felsite

(light-colored)

Basalt

(dark-colored)

Glassy

(amorphous)

Obsidian Pitchstone Pumice (black) (red or brown) (a glass froth)

FIGURE 8.16 Field classification of igneous rock. Note: Consolidated volcanic ash is called tuff if no large fragments are present. If large fragments are present, it is called breccia. (From C. H. Harned, Some Practical Aspects of Foundation Studies for Highway Bridges, U. S. Bureau of Public Roads, January 1959)

FIELD CLASSIFICATION OF METAMORPHIC ROCKS

NONFOLIATED

(no parallel alignment of minerals)

FOLIATED

(parallel alignment of minerals)

Quartzite conglomerate (from conglomerate)

Quartzite (from sandstone)

Marble (from limestone)

Serpentine (from basic igneous rocks) Anthracite (from bituminous coal)

Gneiss (individual foliation planes are easily distinguishable with the naked eye)

Schist (individual foliation planes are distinguishable with a hand lens)

Slate (microfoliated)

ESSENTIAL MINERAL COMPOSITION OF THE COMMON METAMORPHIC ROCKS

NONFOLIATED

FOLIATED

ROCK MINERALS Quartzite Quartz Marble Calcite or dolomite Serpentine Serpentine Coal No minerals

ROCK MINERALS

Gneiss Quartz, feldspar, muscovite, biotite, pyroxenes, amphiboles

Schist Garnet, staurolite, talc, muscovite, biotite, chlorite, epidote

Slate Microscopic quartz, muscovite, biotite, chlorite

Note: The names of foliated rocks are frequently modified by designating the conspicuous minerals present, e. g., chlorite schist, talc schist, mica schist, staurolite schist.

FIGURE 8.17 Field classification of metamorphic rock. (From C. H. Earned, Some Practical Aspects of Foundation Studies for Highway Bridges, U. S. Bureau of Public Roads, January 1959)

The triaxial shear test is used to find the shear strength of a soil for the determina­tion of pile lengths and of bearing capacity for spread footings or drilled shafts. Triaxial shear test results are also needed to give soil parameters for the design of retaining walls. High-quality, undisturbed samples are required for triaxial shear tests. Poor samples should be discarded rather than tested, as they will give misleading results.

The direct shear test is sometimes performed in lieu of other shear tests, and the use of its results is the same as that noted above for the triaxial shear test. It is impor­tant to remember that direct shear test results are usually less reliable than those obtained from the triaxial shear test, since the failure line in the direct shear test is imposed by the method of testing, whereas the triaxial method allows the sample to fail in its weakest plane. On occasion, it is desirable to shear soil or rock along a par­ticular plane. In these cases, a direct shear test may be used. High-quality, undisturbed samples are needed for this test.

CLASTIC SEDIMENTARY ROCKS

RESIDUAL AND /OR MECHANICAL SEDIMENT

GRAIN SIZE

UNCONSOLIDATED SEDIMENT

CONSOLIDATED ROCK

Coarse

Boulders, cobbles, gravel, and coarse sand

Conglomerate (rounded particles)

Breccia (angular particles) Sandstone (coarse)

Medium

Sand

Sandstone

Arkose = +25% feldspar Graywacke = dark colored

Fine

Silt and clay

Siltstone and shale

NONCLASTIC SEDIMENTARY ROCKS

CHEMICAL SEDIMENTS

ORGANIC SEDIMENTS

Gypsum

Salt

Dolomite Clauconite Some chert (flint) Some iron ores Some phosphate rock

Some limestone Some chert (flint) Some phosphate rock Peat Coal

Note: 1. The cementing agents for sedimentary rocks are calcite, quartz, limonite, hematite, and chalcedony. Clay minerals may also function as binder or semicementing material.

2. Compositional descriptive adjectives such as siliceous, argillaceous, arenaceous, calcareous, carbonaceous, ferrugenous, feldspathic, opaline, and cherty are frequently used.

3. Other descriptive adjectives such as massive, laminated, stratified, varved, cross-bedded, concretionary, and fissile are also used.

FIGURE 8.18 Field classification of sedimentary rock. (From C. H. Earned, Some Practical Aspects of Foundation Studies for Highway Bridges, U. S. Bureau of Public Roads, January 1959)

The unconfined compression test of a soil is a uniaxial compression test in which the test specimen is provided with no lateral support while undergoing vertical com­pression. The test measures the unconfined, compressive strength of a cylinder of cohesive or semicohesive soil, which, indirectly, may be indicative of the shearing strength. The test is usually performed on an undisturbed sample of soil at its natural moisture content. It may also be performed on a remolded sample to evaluate the effects of disturbance and remolding upon the shearing strength.

Unconfined compression tests are relatively quick to perform and relatively inex­pensive. When used in conjunction with the triaxial test, the unconfined compres­sion test is of value. Also, it is sometimes used as an index test because it is easy to conduct.

(a)

GROUPING USED IN TRIANGULAR CLASSIFICATION

CLASS

PERCENT OF SIZES PRESENT

NAMES

SAND

SILT

CLAY

Sand

80-100

0-20

0-20

Silty sand

45-80

0-55

0-20

Sandy silt

0-45

35-80

0-20

Silt

0-20

80-100

0-20

Clayey sand

38-80

0-42

20-30

Clayey silt

0-38

32-80

20-30

Sandy clay

30-70

0-40

30-50

Silty clay

0-30

20-70

30-50

Clay

0-50

0-50

50-100

If gravel is present in appreciable amounts, the term “gravelly” may be added to the class name, vis. “gravelly sand”. The terms “coarse”, “medium”, and “fine”, when used to describe gravel, sand, and silt, refer to standard grade size limits.

(b)

FIGURE 8.19 Classification of soil based on (a) grain size of sediment and (b) standard grain size limits. (From C. H. Harned, Some Practical Aspects of Foundation Studies for Highway Bridges, U. S. Bureau of Public Roads, January 1959)

STEP 7 PREPARE AND PAINT THE INTERIOR TRIM

Подпись:One nice aspect of new construction is that you can paint all the walls and ceilings before installing the cabinets, shelving, doors, and interior trim. Even though you’ll have more wall surface to cover, the work can go quickly because you don’t need to worry about getting paint on all the other finished surfaces. In the next chapter, we’ll see how trim and cabinets are installed. Just ahead, we’ll cover what you need to know about applying finish paint or stain on interior trim.

Подпись:There are several finishing options for interior trim. Instead of paint, the wood can either be stained or finished with clear polyure­thane. Both options allow the grain of the wood to show. If you like the look of natural wood against painted walls and ceilings, plan to install solid stain-grade trim rather than less expensive finger-jointed, paint-grade stock. Wood doors can also be stained or coated with polyurethane or another clear finish. An application of wood stain is usually followed by a coat or two of clear finish to give the wood added protection and make it easy to clean. Tinted polyurethane finish provides the benefits of both stain and clear finish in a single application. For recom­mendations on stain and clear finish treatments for interior trim, consult a knowledgeable paint supplier.

With painted trim, it’s a good idea to prime – coat the pieces before installing them. You can apply paint quickly when the trim pieces are set
up on sawhorses. Brush primer on the back of the trim (known as back-priming) as well as on the front. It doesn’t take a lot of extra time, and this technique makes the trim more resistant to warping, swelling, and shrinking in response to moisture fluctuations.

Common Interior Glues

COMMON,

CHEMICAL NAME(S)

PROS

CONS

BRANDS

White carpenter’s, Polyvinyl acetate

Moderate strength; inexpensive

Runny; poor initial tack; clogs sandpaper

Elmer’s® Glue-All®

Yellow carpenter’s, polyvinyl acetate

Strong; good initial tack; sands well

Titebond® Original

Polyurethane

Bonds to most materials; sands well; takes stain; fills gaps; water resistant

Glue expansion can spread joints not tightly clamped; slow tacking time; stains skin

Gorilla Glue®; Titebond

Cyanocacrylate

Instant bond; great for nonstructural joints; bonds many materials

Expensive; can’t adjust pieces once placed, skin/eye hazards

Super Glue™; Hot Flash; Turbo Flash

Hot glue

Quick-tack glue to create thin plywood templates

Limited strength, but okay for temporary positioning; low-stress joints

Hotstik; Bostick HotMelt

Contact cement

Instant bond; resists heat and water; best for attaching plastic laminate and veneers

Can’t adjust once sheet and substrate make contact; volatile solvent; needs good ventilation

DAP® Weldwood™; 3M® Fastbond®

* Several Web sites offer interactive product selectors. Specify how and where you’ll use the adhesive, and the selector will choose a product (www. titebond. com is particularly good).

Подпись: Double-gluing creates strong joints. First use your finger to rub in a little glue to seal the end grain. When that's tacky, apply a second layer of glue to bond the trim pieces.

the trim. But splicing joints with biscuits is by far the better way to keep them from spreading. Use a biscuit joiner to cut slots into mating edges; then inject glue into the slots and spread it evenly on the casing ends. Place biscuits in the slots and reassemble the joints, drawing the joints tight with a single 4d or 6d finish nail angled into butt joints or end-nailed through miter joints. Use a damp cloth to wipe off excess glue.

Drive nails into framing whenever possible.

If framing members are spaced 16 in. on center, nail trim to every stud or ceiling joist it crosses. Where trim runs parallel with the framing, as with side casing, nail the trim at the ends and roughly every 16 in. in the field. Equally impor­tant is using the right nail or screw to avoid splitting the wood trim. (The table on p. 415 recommends sizes for most trim applications.)

To attach narrow molding such as quarter – round, use a single row of finish nails. On wider molding, use two nails to prevent cupping: Set the nails at least ‘A in. from the edge, and use a square to line up nail pairs.

It’s usually not necessary to predrill softwood trim to prevent splits. If you use a pneumatic nailer, do not nail too close to the edge, and don’t use to too big a nail. However, when nailing hard-

Подпись: Door and I Window Casings image854Подпись: Use an end cutter (or nipper) to snip nail points. Nails with blunt points are less likely to split trim because they crush the wood rather than wedge it apart, as triangular points do. Подпись: SQUARE-CUT OR BUTTПодпись: . revealПодпись: casingimage856image857wood trim or nailing the ends of boards, pre­drilling is smart. Use a drill bit whose shank is thinner than the nail’s. Alternatively, you can minimize splits by using nippers to snip off the nail points, as shown in the photo at right. It’s a bit counterintuitive, but it works.

Before painting, caulk all gaps between the casing and the wall.

Casing a Door

Before casing doors and windows, review "Assessing and Prepping the Opening,” on p. 92, particularly the remarks on margining, centering jambs in relation to a wall’s thickness. Then sur­vey the door and window frames to be cased; use a 4-ft. level and a square to see if the frame jambs are plumb, margined, and square.

CASING ELEMENTS

Door casing is trim that covers the gaps around a door frame. It thus goes on after a door has been hung. Most often casing consists of three pieces: two side casings (leg casings), which cover frame jambs, and one piece of head casing, which goes over the frame head. Six pieces, if you count both sides of a doorway.

There are three common casing joints: mitered, preferred for trim that is molded (shaped) because it enables you to match mold

SOME FACTS ABOUT COPPER PIPE AND TUBING

Would you like some facts about copper pipe and tubing? Well, you’re in the right place. Let’s go over some data that could serve you well in your plumb­ing endeavors. Figure 11.20 will show you some size data for copper tubing. Are you interested in size details for copper that is used for drain, waste, and vent (DWV) applications? Refer to Figure 11.21 for this information.

Подпись:SOME FACTS ABOUT COPPER PIPE AND TUBINGПодпись:

SOME FACTS ABOUT COPPER PIPE AND TUBING

Copper is rated in terms of types. For example, Type K copper has a thick wall and is considered a stronger material than Type L or Type M copper. This type of tubing isn’t used often in residential work, but it is sometimes used for water services when the copper is supplied in its soft form. Soft copper comes in a roll and allows underground piping, such as that for a water service, to be installed without joints. Type L copper is fre­quently used for water distribution pipes in homes and can be used in its soft form for water services. A softer type of copper is known as Type M copper. This copper tubing is used mostly for hot-water-base­board heating systems. it is available only in rigid lengths and is not available in a rolled coil. Many plumbing codes prohibit its use for water distribution systems. Figure 11.22 will show you how different types of copper are available for purchase.

Nominal pipe size (inches)

Outside diameter (inches)

Inside diameter (inches)

Type К

V*

0.375

0.305

%

0.500

0.402

Vi

0.625

0.527

%

0.750

0.652

%

0.875

0.745

1

1.125

0.995

VA

1.375

1.245

l’/i

1.625

1.481

2

2.125

1.959

2Vi

2.625

2.435

3

3.125

2.907

3Va

3.625

3.385

4

4.125

3.857

5

5.125

4.805

6

6.125

5.741

8

8.125

7.583

10

10.125

9.449

12

12.125

11.315

Type L

‘/4

0.375

0.315

%

0.500

0.430

Vz

0.625

0.545

%

0.750

0.666

%

0.875

0.785

1

1.125

1.025

VA

1.375

1.265

v/i

1.625

1.505

2

2.125

1.985

2 Vi

2.625

2.465

3

3.125

2.945

3Vi

3.625

3.425

4

4.125

3.905

5

5.125

4.875

6

6.125

5.845

8

8.125

7.725

10

10.125

9.625

12

12.125

11.565

FIGURE 11.20 ■ Copper tube – water distribution. [Courtesy of McGraw-Hill)

CAST IRON

Подпись: ✓ fast code fact Don’t use 50-50 solder for potable water piping. Most codes require lead-free solder or, at the most, a 95-5 solder for potable water piping. Solder with a 50-50 rating is normally used only for heating pipes at this stage of life.

Подпись: FIGURE 11.21 ■ Copper tube - DWV. (Courtesy of McGraw-Hill)
SOME FACTS ABOUT COPPER PIPE AND TUBING

Cast-iron pipe comes in three basic types.

One is known as service-weight pipe and another is called extra-heavy cast iron.

These types of pipe may be purchased with either one or two hubs. A third type of cast-iron pipe is called no-hub pipe.

This type has no hub on either end; it is coupled with mechanical joints (Fig.

11.24 & 11.25). Cast iron is still in use and provides years of dependable service.

Risk and Hazard for Pollution

Pollutant emissions from roads and traffic present risks and hazards to water bodies where roads are in their recharge area or when they are in direct contact with road environment. Risk is defined as the probability that a particular adverse event will occur during a stated period of time, or it results from a particular challenge (Adams, 1995). Similarly ‘hazard’ is defined as the attribute that is the consequence of the probability of an adverse event and the degree of harm that can happen if this event occurs. A high hazard is present where the potential consequences to water bodies are significant.

Pollution risk depends not on vulnerability but on the existence of pollutant load­ing entering the subsurface environment. It is possible to have high aquifer vulner­ability but no risk of pollution, if there is no pollutant loading; and to have high pollution risk in spite of low vulnerability, if the pollutant loading is exceptional. It is important to make clear the distinction between vulnerability and risk. This is because risk of pollution is determined not only by the intrinsic characteristics of the aquifer, which are relatively static and hardly changeable, but also on the existence of potentially polluting activities, which are dynamic factors which can in principle be changed and controlled.

The hazard of polluting the proximal road environment is the consequence of three types of emissions that are very much related to overall road and traffic char­acteristics:

• permanent emissions;

• incident emissions; and

• seasonal emissions.

Permanent emissions are mainly the consequence of vehicle operation on the road and their interaction with the pavement. This type of emission can also be the conse­quence of the interaction between materials used for road construction, maintenance and their surrounding environment.

Seasonal emissions are the result of the climatic seasonality, which influences circumstances that exist at a particular time on pavement and in the embankment. Typical seasonal emissions are connected with road salting. In northern European countries and Alpine countries during the thawing of snow and ice, a significant amount of chloride is emitted from the roads and their near surroundings. Similar seasonality is connected with higher summer temperatures when pollutants are more bound to asphalt surfaces then during the colder periods of the year.

Accidental spillages of liquids and gases hazardous to water bodies are typical incident emissions on roads. Roads, where the potential hazard of spillage of envi­ronmentally dangerous goods is high, should be treated more rigorously than roads where such potential is small.

Protecting the water environment from different types of emissions requires different mitigation measures. Therefore, it is necessary that during the planning and design of roads, a basic knowledge about potential risk and hazards must be established.

Soils Analysis

Retaining wall design engineers not fully trained in soil mechanics need to be acquainted with certain basic principles, in order to understand the data developed by the geotechnical engineer or geologist responsible for the subsurface exploration. Soil is a nonhomogeneous earthen material that varies laterally and vertically in mineral context, grain size, density, grain shape, moisture content, strength, consistency, and compressibility. For the design of retaining walls and other structure-type foundations, the engineering properties of the soil must be evaluated. Such an evaluation will

always require consideration of foundation soil classification, bearing capacity, and compressibility.

Soil Classification. Since the types of soils are so numerous and variable, a classifi­cation system is important. The Unified Soil Classification System (USCS) has been generally accepted by engineers. It is based upon the sizes of the particles, the distrib­ution of the particle sizes, and the properties of the fine-grained portion. Only particle sizes of 3 in (75 mm) or less are included in the USCS. Materials greater in size are generally indicated in the log of borings as cobbles or boulders. Figure 8.14 shows the unified soil classification chart. The basic classifications include coarse-grained and fine-grained soils.

Coarse-Grained Soils. Coarse-grained soils are classified as either gravels or sands, dependent upon the fraction of the material retained on a no. 200 sieve. The classification threshold is 50 percent; i. e., if more than 50 percent of the fraction retained on a no. 200 sieve is retained on a no. 4 sieve, the soil is classified a gravel. If more than 50 percent passes the no. 4 sieve, the soil is classified a sand. There are many groupings of these coarse-grained soils, as indicated in the chart.

Fine-Grained Soils. Fine-grained soils are subdivided by plasticity and compress­ibility rather than by grain size. Fine-grained soils are classified as silt or clay, and as lowly or highly compressible. Criteria for classification are based upon the relation­ship between the liquid limit and the plasticity index. The relationship is given in the form of a plasticity chart shown by the inset in Fig. 8.14 and reproduced in Fig. 8.15. The “A” line on the chart divides clays from silts. Soils whose Atterberg limits plot above the line are clays, designated C; limits that plot below the line are silts, designated M.

0 10 20 30 40 50 60 70 80 90 100

Liquid limit

FIGURE 8.15 Plasticity chart for laboratory classification of fine-grained soils. (Adopted by U. S. Army Corps of Engineers and U. S. Bureau of Reclamation, January 1952)

Cut in around the edges

The two basic techniques for painting both ceilings and walls are cutting in and rolling. uCutting in” means brushing paint onto areas that can’t be reached with a roller. Painters usually begin working from a ladder, cutting in the corners where the ceilings meet the walls. Use a З-in. or 4-in. brush to make a cut-in band all around the ceilings and walls, as shown in the top photo on p. 234. This band will be overlapped when the large open spaces are painted with a roller. Professional painters prefer to use a brush for cutting in, but it can also be done with a paint pad, which is basi­cally just an absorbent sponge on a handle.

Take your time. Good brushes are easy to load with paint. Rather than painting with a

Подпись: CUT IN WITH A PAINT BRUSH. A roller can't reach corners and edges. A З-in.- to 4-in.-wide brush is ideal for painting these areas. Подпись: LOAD YOUR BRUSH WITH PAINT. A good brush can hold plenty of paint. Using a half-full paint bucket allows you to dip and load your brush by tapping it gently against the inside of the bucket. full can of paint, painters like to use a bucket that’s about half full. This allows them to dip the bristles about halfway into the paint, then fill the inner part of the brush with a few gen­tle slaps of the brush against the inside of the can (see the photo at bottom left). Apply paint in relaxed, even, gentle strokes.

Use a roller to fill the field

Once you’ve finished cutting in, switch to a roller to paint the rest of the ceilings and walls. Ask at the paint store which roller to use for your type of paint and wall surface. Many painters use a good-quality 9-in. roller frame fitted with a Yz-in. synthetic-nap roller. An extension pole that attaches to the frame makes it easy to reach the ceiling. Paint can be loaded on a roller from either a paint pan or from a 5-gal. bucket with a roller screen hooked to the inside. Don’t overload either the pan or the bucket with paint. Dip the roller into the paint several times to saturate the nap. Then unload the excess paint on the pan or roller screen (see the photo on p. 236).

Rolling paint on ceilings and walls must be done slowly and methodically, using long strokes. It must be done slowly because push­ing a roller rapidly scatters paint far and wide. It must be methodical so that every square foot of drywall receives full and equal cover­age. Try painting in З-ft. squares, running the roller back and forth in a tight “M” or “W” formation, with each stroke overlapping the previous one by a few inches. Blend the main ceiling paint into the corners by overlapping the cut-in sections by an inch or so, but be careful not to touch the other side. In hot, dry climates, try to keep the working edge wet with paint. If you overlap a dried edge, you’ll often see a lap mark after the paint has dried.

When rolling paint on walls, you can reduce the splatter by painting on the

upstroke. Watch out for paint ridges left at the ends of a roller. Try tipping the roller to the side to squeeze out the excess paint as you roll. Then go back over the ridge and even out the coat. Apply a uniform, thick coat, but not so thick that the paint begins to run. When painting near the floor, turn the bend in the roller frame toward the floor to keep the roller from picking up dust and dirt. With care, you should be able to cover the walls and ceilings with one coat on top of the primer, especially I if you’re using good-quality paint. But don’t I despair if one coat looks a little thin. Paint is 1 not all that expensive, so just roll on another I coat, if necessary.

STEP 7 Prepare and Paint the Interior Trim

One nice aspect of new construction is that you can paint all the walls and ceilings before installing the cabinets, shelving, doors, and interior trim. Even though you’ll have more wall surface to cover, the work can go quickly because you don’t need to worry about getting paint on all the other finished surfaces. In the next chapter, we’ll see how trim and cabinets are installed. Just ahead, we’ll cover what you need to know about applying finish paint or stain on interior trim.

Подпись: rПодпись: Helping HandПодпись: Avoid overloading. Inex-perienced painters often make the mistake of over-loading brushes (and rollers) with paint. All this does is make a bigger mess, with paint splattering, dripping, and running down your elbows.Cut in around the edges

Cut in around the edges

There are several finishing options for interior trim. Instead of paint, the wood can either be stained or finished with clear

Подпись:Подпись: 1 "1Подпись: Helping HandПодпись: Plastic wrap makes good short-term storage for brushes and rollers. When you stop painting to have lunch or simply take a break, there's no need to clean your brush or roller. Instead, just wrap it in plastic until you get back to work.polyurethane. Both options allow the grain of the wood to show. If you like the look of natural wood against painted walls and ceil­ings, plan to install solid stain-grade trim rather than less expensive finger-jointed, paint-grade stock. Wood doors can also be stained or coated with polyurethane or another clear finish. An application of wood stain is usually followed by a coat or two of clear finish to give the wood added protection and make it easy to clean. Tinted polyurethane finish provides the benefits of both stain and clear finish in a single application. For recom­mendations on stain and clear finish treat­ments for interior trim, consult a knowledge­able paint supplier.

With painted trim, it s a good idea to prime-coat the pieces before installing them. You can apply paint quickly when the trim
pieces are set up on sawhorses. Brush primer on the back of the trim (known as back – priming) as well as on the front. It doesn’t take a lot of extra time, and this technique makes the trim more resistant to warping, swelling, and shrinking in response to mois­ture fluctuations.

Paint prep is the key to a good paint job

Professional painters know from experience that the biggest part of a paint job is the preparation. You don’t just grab a bucket of paint and a roller and have at it. Take time to remove doors from their jambs before you start painting the walls and ceilings. Number or label the doors so you’ll know later where each one belongs.

Some drywall jobs create lots of dust that must be removed before you can paint. I use a vacuum cleaner to remove dust from the walls and ceilings, but a broom or a pole sander wrapped with a cotton cloth also works well. Take it easy, because topping compound is rel­atively soft and easily scratched. Pay special attention to dust in the corners. Remove any drywall mud or dust left in electrical outlets, and scrape up any globs of drywall compound that have dried on the floor. Drywall mud left on the floor can work its way up through a carpet. Then vacuum up all the dust. Cover the tub or shower with a protective sheet of inexpensive 1-mil plastic, often called painters poly, affixed with masking tape.

Apply the prime and finish coats

My advice for buying paint and brushes is the same as for buying any other tools and mate­rials: Talk to contractors and knowledgeable folks working behind the counter where you buy your supplies. Then buy the best you can

Paint prep is the key to a good paint job

Подпись: Materials TYPES OF PAINT
Подпись: YEARS AGO, PAINTERS who worked with oil-based paints, lacquers, and varnishes in poorly ventilated spaces didn't last long in the trade. A serious whiff of the solvents in those products would spin your brain and stagger your feet. Fortunately, most of the paint sold in this country today is water based, which is a lot less hazardous to use and cleans up with soapy water. The best latex paint contains a large amount of acrylic resin. Vinyl acrylic is the second- best choice. Vinyl resin is the least durable option. Oil-based paints are still around but are mainly used by professional painters. Even among pros, alkyd paints containing synthetic resins have largely replaced oil-based paints. Alkyds are great when you want a glossy surface, but they are harder to apply than latex paints, take longer to dry, and are more work to clean up (requiring paint thinner). Usually, there are three grades of paint: Good- quality paint has a 10-year warranty, better-quality
Подпись: paint offers 15 years, and best-quality paint offers 20 years. Flat-finish paint has more pigment than gloss paint, so it covers better than gloss but also wears faster. That said, when evaluating two similar products (different brands of flat-finish latex paint, for example), a higher content of solids indicates a better-quality product. However, don't compare across categories, such as flat to gloss. One problem with paint is that it contains solvents, which release volatile organic compounds (VOCs) into the air as they evaporate. These compounds can make some people sick. Latex paints contain far lower levels of solvents than alkyds, but they can still be bothersome to some people. If fumes are a problem for you, choose one of the low-VOC paints on the market. To minimize indoor fumes, keep the windows open and run a good fan to promote ventilation.

afford. A knowledgeable paint supplier will help you choose primer and finish paints that are compatible; you’ll also get advice on the I best brushes and rollers to use with your paint. For some basic background informa – I tion, see the sidebar above. A well-built house deserves a quality paint job. Spending more money on high-quality paint can actually save you money down the road, because 1 good paint covers better and holds up well over time.

When using several gallons of a single I color, mix them together in a 5-gal. bucket to j I ensure uniformity. Keep the pigment mixed by stirring well before painting and through – ■ out the day.