Choosing a Foundation

 

FOUNDATION TYPES VARY by

region. When deciding which type of foundation to use, consider the cost, climate, and local preferences. The three major foundation types are discussed below.

 

rough or finished floor for the first level of the building. This explains why slab foundations are less expen­sive than other types. Because con­crete has poor insulativc qualities, slab foundations are often insulated with rigid foam. Plumbing waste lines are typically cast into the slab, so thev must be carefulIv laid out

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and installed first. Plumbing supply – lines and tubes for radiant floor heat­ing can also be cast into a slab.

Types of Slab Foundations

Concrete slabs can be poured inside stem walls that bear on conventional footings. Another construction method is to form and pour the floor and footing together. With this type of slab, the floor is simply thickened at the perimeter of the house (and beneath any load-bearing walls or interior posts) to form the footing. As with other foundations, the footing should extend below the frost line.

Crawl Space

Crawl-space foundations are very compatible with affordable housing. In humid, high-moisture areas (such as the Southeast and Pacific Northwest), this type of foundation raises the living space off the ground, a wav from wet soil. A house built on floor joists over a crawl space

 

SLAB WITH INTEGRAL
FOOTING

 

PT

 

sill

 

4-in. (minimum) reinforced stab, continuous

 

Termite shield

Anchor bolt

Insulation board

 

Concrete Slab

Slab foundations are popular throughout southern sections of the country and in regions where winter temperatures are mild. A concrete slab is more than a foun­dation; the slab also serves as the

 

Footing Moisture extends barrier below frost line.

 

4 in.

(minimum) of compacted gravel

 

SLAB WITH SEPARATE FOOTING & STEM WALL

  Choosing a Foundation Choosing a Foundation

PT sill

/

/

  Choosing a Foundation

Basement

Building a house on a full basement provides all the advantages of crawl space construction with the added

 

4 in. (minimum) of compacted qravel under slab

 

Foundation

wall f

Footing

 

Choosing a FoundationChoosing a Foundation

Choosing a Foundation

Choosing a FoundationПодпись: POURED CONCRETE BASEMENT FOUNDATIONПодпись: Slope away from the foundationПодпись: Horizontal rebar Уг-іп. anchor boltChoosing a FoundationПодпись: 4-in. perforated drainpipeПодпись: Filter fabricПодпись: GravelПодпись: Vertical rebarПодпись: Foundation coatingПодпись: 4-in. (minimum) reinforced concrete slabПодпись:Подпись: FootingПодпись: Horizontal rebar Подпись: " GravelChoosing a Foundation

benefit of extra room below the main living area. Of course* basement foundations are more expensive than other types, and the living space they provide can be damp and lacking in natural light. To overcome these dis­advantages, some basements incorpo­rate window wells—windows located just below grade level—surrounded by a metal or concrete retaining wall on the outside of the foundation. When a basement will he used as a living space, the foundation walls must be waterproofed on the outside, insulated on the outside or on the inside, and finished on the inside. Today, many basement foundations are built with poured concrete walls. Other builders construct basement foundations with concrete block.

Concrete Block vs. Poured Concrete Walls

If you have a large crew, like we do on most Habitat projects, it makes sense to build foundation walls with con­crete block. All you need are a couple of experienced masons and enough volunteers to keep them supplied with blocks and mortar as they work their way around and up, course by course. A crawl-space foundation can be com­pleted in just a couple of days. When building walls with concrete block, it’s
easy to form beam pockets and open­ings for vents, doors, and windows. And by switching to a smaller block just below the planned grade level, you can create a ledge for brick veneer.

If you want a full basement and you don’t have a Habitat-size crew, poured concrete is the way to go. Most basement foundations are built with poured concrete walls that are formed and poured by foundation contractors.

This can exert tremendous pressure on a foundation. I have seen how this expansive action moves footings, cracks slabs, and causes extensive damage to a house. When builders are aware of the potential problems with day soil, they can take precautions to avoid dam­aging effects. (See the drainage guidelines dis­cussed in the sidebar below.) I have worked on sites where several feet of clav soil were removed and replaced with nonexpansive soil, which was then compacted before the footings were poured.

Foam forms are worth considering

If vou haven’t done so already, take a look at the possibilities offered by insulated concrete forms (ICFs). These lightweight foam forms are easv to handle and assemble, and they stay in place to provide wall insulation after the foundation wall is poured (see the sidebar on the facing page). With an ICT system, lay­ing up foundation walls doesn’t demand back-breaking labor. Even so, many home­builders still prefer to hire a foundation con­tractor to take on this phase of the construe-

COMMONSENSE SAFETY

► Stay off the roof unless you have a compelling reason to be on it. Besides being hazardous to you, walking on a roof can damage roofing materials.

► If you must work on a roof, have a second person within earshot in case you fall or need occasional help.

► Don’t venture up when the roof is wet or near freezing or extremely warm. When wet, most roofing materials are slippery. Cold asphalt shingles are brittle; warm asphalt can stretch and tear. Always wear shoes with soft nonslip soles.

► Position ladder feet securely away from the building about one-quarter of the ladder’s extended length. Never lean sideways from a ladder. If you can’t reach something while keeping your hips within ladder sides, move the ladder.

► When installing a roof, use scaffolding with a safety rail. The most dangerous part of a roofing job—apart from tearing off shingles and underlayment—is applying the first few courses along eaves.

► When walking on a roof, try to "walk on nails." In other words, try to walk directly over the rafters, where the sheathing is nailed. The roof will be less springy over rafters, and you’ll be less likely to break through rotten sheathing.

► Follow the manufacturer’s installation instructions, which often provide time – and money-saving tips. Also, if a material fails after correct installation, manufacturers are more likely to honor their warranties.

EQUIPMENT

Unless you are installing roofing systems that need to be “torched” (heat-sealed with a propane torch) you won’t need a lot of specialized equip­ment or tools. Most of the items discussed here are safety related.

Pneumatic nailers have gauge stops on their bases that you can adjust to the correct shingle exposure. For example, when the gauge stop is snug to the butt of a shingle, the next shingle above, placed on the nose of the tool will be correctly positioned to nail.

Footwear should be sneakers or other soft-soled shoes that grip well on a roof. Old-time roofers prefer boots with thick soles that are less likely to be punctured by stray nails, but such boots are inflexible and don’t grip as well.

Scaffolding can make applying the first few courses along the eaves far safer. After the lower courses are installed, the scaffolding serves main­ly as a staging area for materials and tools.

Roofing jacks enable you to work safely on roofs with a 6-in-12 pitch or steeper. Several dif­ferent roof pitches are shown in “Gutter Lip and Roof Pitch,” on p. 149. Jacks are also indispensa­ble platforms for storing materials. As you work up a roof, install additional pairs of jacks when­ever you must stretch to nail the next course. As shown in the photo on p.65, many roofers leave jacks installed till the job is completed.

Full-body harnesses, also known as personal fall-arrest systems (PFAS), may be required by local building authorities if a roof exceeds a cer­tain pitch or if the eaves are more than a speci­fied height above the ground. If harnesses are required, have someone at the rental company demonstrate correct use.

Kneepads, sturdy ones with integral plastic cups, will spare you a lot of pain. In addition, a Malco Shingle Pad®, an insulated foam pad you can sit or kneel on while shingling, protects shin­gles from abrasion and has a little lip to keep tools from sliding south.

A pneumatic nailer, which you can rent, speeds the job along. Have the rental company recom­mend nails and explain the nailer’s correct use.

Shingling hatchets in the hands of a pro can fasten shingles almost as fast as a pneumatic nailer.

Miscellaneous tools include a utility knife with hooked blades, a straightedge or framing square, a hammer, a chalkline, a tape measure, caulk guns, work gloves, safety glasses, and hearing protection.

Techniques VENTING A CRAWL-SPACE FOUNDATION—OR NOT

  Techniques VENTING A CRAWL-SPACE FOUNDATION—OR NOT

of the building. For appearance’s sake, most builders try to leave vents off the front of the building.

If you need to install crawl-space vents, there are several ways to do so. Some factory-made vents are designed for installation in openings formed in

 

Techniques VENTING A CRAWL-SPACE FOUNDATION—OR NOT

 

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Artificial Slag Aggregates

Slags of different sorts may be used in SMA mixtures, providing they meet suit­able requirements. For example, in Europe these can be determined in the National

Application Documents for the EN 13043 standard; examples were presented in Table 5.2 (for more information, see Chapter 14). When considering the possibility of using slag in an asphalt mixture, one should remember the following specific properties for these aggregates:

• The density could sometimes be substantially different from that of crushed rock aggregates and can be variable; when designing an SMA mixture using the weight method, differences can manifest themselves in differing volume relations between mixture components.

• The binder content should be determined carefully; a higher density of an aggregate mix usually brings about the necessity for reducing the quantity of binder, but the high porosity of external surfaces of slag grains should also be taken into account.

• The complex chemical composition of slag means that adhesion promoters should be carefully selected and confirmed with testing.

• One of the basic requirements imposed on slag aggregates is an invariabil­ity of properties determined during testing called chemical disintegration.

In addition to these properties, some research (Airey et al., 2004) has proven that mixtures with slag aggregates demonstrate very good interlocking characteristics and a relatively high resilient modulus. Conversely, mixtures with slag showed an increased susceptibility to age hardening (in long-term laboratory aging).

Other tests of slag aggregate show very high PSV values, which could be used for designing skid-resistant asphalt mixes.

RECLAIMED ASPHALT

Generally, most regulations do not recommend using reclaimed asphalt or simply do not allow recycling old asphalt layers into SMA. However, some good test results do exist for SMA mixtures with reclaimed asphalt (Perez et al., 2004).

The requirements for reclaimed asphalt to be used for SMA according to the EN 13108-5 standard are discussed in Chapter 14.

5.2 OTHER MATERIALS

5.5.1 Natural Asphalt

Some results of the use of natural asphalt as an additive to road binder manufac­tured in a refinery are cited in relevant literature (Hausler and Arand, undated; Radenberg, 1997). Natural asphalt is usually added to increase resistance to perma­nent deformation.

The requirements for natural asphalts have also been cited in the EN 13108-4 standard, Annex B.

Roofs

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A roof is a building’s most important layer of defense against water, wind, and sun. Properly constructed and maintained, a roof deflects rain and snowmelt, and routes them away from other house surfaces. Historically, roof materials have included straw, clay tile, wood, and slate. Although many of these materials are still used, most roofs installed today are asphalt-based composites.

If roofs consisted simply of two sloping planes, covering them would be easy. But today’s roofs have protruding vent pipes, chimneys, sky­lights, dormers, and the like—all potentially water dams and channels that need to be flashed to guide water around them. Then as runoff approaches the lower reaches of the roof, it must be directed away from the building by means of overhangs, drip-edges, and—finally—gutters and downspouts.

This chapter assumes that the house founda­tion and framing are stable. Because structural shifting or settling can cause roofing materials to separate and leak, you should fix structural prob­lems before repairing or replacing a roof.

Roof Safety and Equipment

Among the building trades, roofing is considered the most dangerous—not because its tasks are inherently hazardous—but because they take place high above the ground. The steeper the roof pitch, the greater the risk. If heights make you uneasy or if you’re not particularly agile, hire a licensed contractor.

Although these wood shingles seem randomly placed, the installer is taking great pains to offset the shingle joints between courses and to maintain a minimum exposure of 5 in. so the roof would be durable as well as distinctive.

Aesthetics

Today’s market suggests that, for many of us, the perceived prestige of enor­mity takes precedence over design and even structural integrity when choos – sing a home. It seems that even a shoddy status symbol, with its expansive vinyl walls and snap-on plastic window grills, can somehow connote distinc­tion. The finer qualities of design have become as difficult to market as they are to achieve, so they are being replaced by highly-prized square footage.

Подпись: A house in Bodega, CA Just as something is typically appre­ciated as good or beautiful when it is deemed necessary, it will be con­demned as ugly or evil when it is considered pointless. Under the right circumstances, murder becomes hero­ism and trash turns into treasure. The distinction between valuables and gar­bage is based primarily on our notions of utility. What two people see as beau­tiful will vary as much as what they consider to be useful.

Accordingly, the selfish squandering of valuable resources and the emission of toxins without any worthwhile pur­pose are always corrupt and unsightly. Beauty may be in the eye of the be­holder, but an oversized house is an ugliness we all have to contend with.

Pedestrian Facilities

When pedestrian facilities are to be constructed or reconstructed as part of project plans, the facilities should be designed to accommodate the disabled. Guidance in design of pedestrian facilities with access for the disabled is available (Ref. 11).

Walks. Walks should be provided in urban areas where pedestrian traffic currently exists or is planned in the future. Walks may be provided in rural areas where they will have sufficient use in relation to cost and safety. Walks are usually made of concrete, although asphalt or gravel may be used under special circumstances. Concrete walks are usually 4 in (100 mm) thick. At drive locations, the thickness is increased to 6 in (150 mm), or the drive thickness, whichever is greater. Asphalt or gravel walks are mostly used in parks, rest areas, etc., where there is low usage. Asphalt walks consist of 2 in (50 mm) of asphalt and 5 in (250 mm) aggregate base, while gravel walks are con­structed of 4 in (100 mm) compacted aggregate base.

Walk Design. The normal width of walks is 4 ft (1.2 m) for residential areas and 6 ft (1.8 m) for commercial areas or major school routes. In downtown areas, the walk width normally extends from the curb to the right-of-way or building line. Transverse slopes should be 1/4 in/ft (21 mm/m). The grade of the walk is normally parallel to the curb or pavement grade, but may be independent. The walk and the “tree lawn” (see next section) normally slope toward the pavement. Care should be taken in setting the pavement curb grade so that the sidewalk and the curb will not trap water or otherwise preclude usability of the adjoining property. The back edge of the walk should be located 2 ft (0.6 m) inside the right-of-way line, unless grading, utilities, or other considera­tions require a greater dimension.

Tree Lawn. The tree lawn is defined as the area between the front of the curb and the front edge of the sidewalk. Grass is usually provided in the tree lawn, although in some urban areas the tree lawn is paved. As shown in Fig. 2.30, in most cases, the desirable tree lawn width is 8 ft (2.4 m) or more. The 8-ft (2.4 m) width provides an area for snow storage and for traffic signs, and an adequate distance for elevation changes at drives. Tree lawn widths of less than 5 ft (1.5 m) result in locating of sign­posts close to pedestrians using the walk, and steep grades on drive profiles. The mini­mum tree lawn width is 2 ft (0.6 m).

Border Area. In an urban area where a walk is not provided, the area between the face of curb and the right-of-way line is often referred to as a border. As indicated in Fig. 2.30d, the border width in residential areas should be at least 8 ft (2.4 m) and preferably 14 ft (4.3 m). In commercial areas, the minimum border width is 10 ft (3.0 m), while a 16-ft (4.9-m) width is preferable.

Walks on Bridges. Walks should be provided on bridges located in urban or suburban areas having curbed sections under two conditions: (1) where there are existing walks on the bridge and/or bridge approaches, or (2) where evidence can be shown through local planning processes, or similar justification, that walks will be required in the near future (5 to 10 years). Anticipated pedestrian volumes of 50 per day justify a walk on one side, and 100 per day justify walks on both sides. Walks on bridges should preferably be 6 ft (1.8 m) wide in residential areas and 8 ft (2.4 m) wide in commercial areas measured from the face of curb to face of parapet. Widths, however, may be as much as 12 ft (3.7 m) in downtown areas. The minimum bridge walk width is 5 ft (1.5 m).

Walks under Bridges. The criterion for providing walks at underpasses is basi­cally the same as described above for walks on bridges. An exception is that in areas where there are no approach walks, space will be provided for future walks but walks will not be constructed with the project unless there is substantial con­current approach walk construction. Where the approach walks at underpasses include a tree lawn, the tree lawn width may be carried through the underpass wherever space permits.

Curb Ramps. A curb ramp is a portion of the walk that is modified to provide a gradual elevation transition through the face of the adjoining curb. It is designed to provide safe and convenient curb crossings for the disabled in wheelchairs, but it can also be used by others. Examples include wheeled vehicles maneuvered by pedestrians and bikeway traffic, when such use is permitted. Curb ramps should be provided where curb and walks are being constructed at intersections and other major points of pedestrian curb crossing such as mid-block crosswalks. When a curb ramp is built on one side of a street, a companion curb ramp is required on the opposite side of the street. The basic requirement is that a crosswalk must be accessible via curb ramps at both ends, not one end only. In most cases, curb ramps will be installed in all quadrants of an intersection. Curb ramps should be located within crosswalk markings to permit legal street crossings. The ramp location must be coordinated with drainage structures, utility poles, etc. The normal gutter profile should be continued through the ramp area, except the profile may be altered to avoid a location conflict between the ramp and a drainage structure. Drainage structures should not be located in the ramp or in front of the ramp. Catch basins should be placed upstream from the ramp.

Going Beyond the Call of Duty

Подпись: [Photo : Anna Carter]

KEN AND MICHELLE AMDAHL moved into their Habitat house just before Christmas of 1997. Since then, they’ve both contributed countless volunteer hours to many other Habitat projects in Winneshiek County, Iowa. That in itself isn’t so unusual, but the Amdahls aren’t your average volun­teers or Habitat homeowners.

Ken, though developmentally dis­abled, not only built the retaining walls for his own house, which is situ­ated on a steeply sloped lot, but he also designed and built the retaining walls for several other Habitat proj­ects in his neighborhood, as well as for projects with other affiliates. A tireless and meticulous worker, Ken also serves as a member of his chap­
ter’s construction committee and participates in other aspects of the affiliates activities.

Not to be outdone bv her husband, Michelle Amdahl (who is legally blind) has contributed numerous volunteer hours both on her own house and on subsequent projects. Among other tasks, Michelle has pre­pared meals, staffed information and check-in tables, and stuffed envelopes for their local Habitat affiliate.

All in all, the Amdahls’ contribu­tions stand as a testament to what can be done when one has the will… and is given a hand up. For all their efforts, Ken and Michelle were desig­nated Winneshiek County HFH’s Volunteers of the Year 2000, a fitting
tribute for a couple who are a resound­ing Habitat success story and also good-hearted Habitat volunteers.

-Don Kemp

Special hardware

If you live in earthquake or hurricane country, you will be using lots of metal hardware to help hold your house together. Earthquakes can be catastrophic events. Properly installed straps, braces, and hold-downs can mean the difference between life and death. To hold the sill plates in place atop foundation walls, anchor bolts are usually embedded in the

4

foundation during its construction. The threaded ends of those bolls extend through the sill plates and are held fast with washers
and nuts. Metal angle braces (10 ft. to 12 ft. long) are used as permanent braces to hold walls plumb. Metal hangers are used to sup­port joists around openings, such as stairways. Metal straps arc sometimes needed to attach the house frame to the sill and the foundation or to tie plates together. Code may also require that hold-down hardware, such as metal angles, be fastened to framing members and the foundation.

FLOORS MAY SEEM TO BE THE SIMPLEST OF THE CHALLENGES Га cing a new builder, but the importance of establishing a firm, sound, dependable connection between a house, the foundation, and the earth cannot be overstated. Everything rests, quite lit­erally, on the quality of the foundation and framing work done in the first few days or so after the concrete contractor has left. Our first house, in coastal Oregon, had a concrete foundation made from beach sand. Sixtv years of wind and rain had

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washed much of that sand back toward the beach, leaving us with a shaky, tilted floor that wasn’t even bolted to the foundation.

Know the Foundation Fundamentals

Take a deep breath. Having found and purchased a lot, bought or drawn up the plans, obtained the permits, cleared and run power to the site, and completed the necessary grading, drainage, and excavation work, you’re finally ready to begin work­ing on the foundation. You’ve already come a long wav.

Whenever Ї think about foundations, 1 can’t help but recall being told as a child, “You’re on your feet most of the day, so wear good shoes." A foundation is like a pair

5 Подпись: STEP BY STEPПодпись: 1 Form and Pour the Footings 2 Build the Foundation Walls 3 Backfill around the Foundation 4 Attach the Sills Build Midspan Support for Joists

6 Install the Joists

7 Install Extra Joists and Blocking

8 Install the Floor Sheathing

42 I

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Going Beyond the Call of Duty

Подпись: Helping HandПодпись: All foundations need proper drainage. In addition to installing drainpipe around the footings, make sure that the finished grade slopes away from the house. If gutters and downspouts are installed, use elbows and splash plates to direct runoff away from foundation walls.

of shoes—quality makes all the difference. Walk around all day in poor shoes and your whole body feels lousy. Build a house on a poor foundation and the entire house is unstable.

There are quite a few foundations that can be used for houses. The three major types— slabs, crawl spaces, and full basements—are discussed in the sidebar on pp. 46-47. Because our Charlotte house has a crawl space founda­tion, we’ll cover the step-bv-step process for this type shortly. The main parts of this foun­dation are shown in the illustration above. However, if you’re planning to build a house, it’s a good idea to consider all your foundation options. Talk to builders and foundation sub­
contractors in your area to find out which foundations and special site conditions to consider. If you’re building a crawl space foundation, as we did here, find oi. t about the ventilation requirements. In some areas, vents are required in crawl-space foundations. In other areas, codes have been updated to allow for an unvented crawl space (see the sidebar on the facing page).

Clay can cause problems

Local soil conditions have a lot to do with choosing and constructing a foundation. Extra care must be taken when building on clay-rich soils, which exist in many parts of the country. Clay expands when saturated with moisture.