BOLSTERING JOISTS

Widespread sagging or excessive springiness in a floor is probably caused by joists that are too small for the span or by post, pad, and founda­tion failure, as covered in Chapter 10. Isolated joist failure is usually caused by insect or water damage; an earlier renovator cutting into the joist; or point loading, in which a heavy piece of furniture or a tub causes joists to sag. If there’s infestation or rot, correct that condition first.

Sistered joists. The most common way to rein­force a weakened joist is to nail a new one to it— a “sister” of the same dimension and length. The new sister needn’t be the exact length of the origi­nal but should be long enough to be supported on both ends by the perimeter foundation or a girder. For this reason, short sections “scabbed on” don’t work and are usually prohibited by local building codes.

To insert the new joist, remove blocking or bridging between the affected joists, and bend over or snip off flooring nails protruding from the underside of the floor. Then eyeball the new sister joist and note its crown: If its arc is exces­sive, power plane it down so that you don’t bow up the floor as you drive the joist into place. Beveling the leading top edge of the joist will also make sledging into place easier. Once the new joist is in position, use bar clamps to draw it tight to the old joist; then face-nail them, staggering 16d nails every 12 in. If there’s no room to swing a hammer, use a pneumatic palm nailer to the drive nails most of the way.

Angled-end joist. Where joists will rest on a foundation mudsill at one end and hang from a girder at the other (rather than sitting atop it), angle-cut the end destined to rest on the mudsill so it will fit between the mudsill and subfloor.

Подпись: Here, new joists are sistered to both sides of existing joists, with a 3-ft. overlap. The red chalkline down the center of the joists indicates the center of a new girder to come.

Подпись: I Leveling a Ceiling with Steel Studs
image350
Подпись: Steel studs let you establish a level plane of nailers for eventual drywall. As detailed in the text, measure up from a level laser line, drive a nail at each room corner, and stretch a string perpendicular to the joists at each end of the room.

Cut the other end square to butt to the girder. Place the angle-cut end of the joist on edge over the mudsill; then lift the squared end and slide it toward the girder till it butts against it. Thus angle cut joists must be a few inches shorter than the original joist you’re sistering to.

You may need a plumbed adjustable column or a screw jack to raise the joist till it’s flush to the underside of the subflooring. Once it is flush, use a double-joist hanger to join the new joist (and its sister) to the girder. Face-nail the two joists, staggering 16d nails every 12 in. Remove jacks and replace blocking between joists. Should one flange of the double-joist hanger overlap a hanger already there, predrill the metal so that you can nail through both hangers with case – hardened hanger nails. To learn more about jack­ing safely, see Chapter 10.

Flitch plates. Steel flitch plates are sometimes used to reinforce undersize beams or joists. Because they are typically 18-in. to 12-in. thick and must be predrilled, they’re not well suited to casual installation by nonspecialists. There’s more on flitch plates on p. 53.

TREATING INSECT INFESTATIONS

If you see signs of an infestation, hire a pest- control professional to assess and remedy it. Pesticides are often toxic, and anyone unfamiliar with insect habits may not destroy all their nest­ing sites or may apply pesticides inappropriately

BOLSTERING JOISTS

CONTINUITY AND JOINTLESS BRIDGES

Where possible, bridges should be made continuous. Continuous spans are less prone to catastrophic collapse from loss of substructure support due to stream erosion, earth­quake, or vehicle or vessel collision. Bridges with multiple simple spans must have two lines of bearings and an expansion joint at each intermediate support. Two lines of bearings, each having the required capacity for the end of a simple span, will almost certainly be more expensive than the single line of bearings required for con­tinuous spans. Expansion joints are expensive and in most geographic locations should be sealed against storm drainage and intrusion of debris, which further increases their cost. (Even the manufacturers of sealed expansion joints agree that the best joint is no joint.) Aesthetically, continuous bridges are generally superior, especially if constant depth is maintained, and do not require the cosmetic plates or other devices that have sometimes been used to conceal the gaps between simple spans.

Continuous bridges are generally more economical than simple-span bridges because of the reduction of mid-span moments. Most bridges can be designed continuous for live load, and some bridges may be designed continuous for dead load as well. In the case of precast prestressed-concrete bridges, it is generally more convenient and economical to place the deck slab concrete while the beams are supported on their bearings, without temporary intermediate shoring, so that the beams are not continuous until the deck slab has acquired its strength and top longitudinal reinforcing bars are present in the compos­ite section over the piers to resist negative moment. Therefore, these bridges are designed continuous for live load and for superimposed dead loads (loads above the deck slab) only. Note that this type of construction unavoidably requires two lines of bearings at intermediate supports because practical prestressed-concrete design and construction require that the spans be simple initially. This is called “made-continuous” construction.

There are situations where simple spans are preferable. Examples include situations where adjacent spans are unavoidably different in length and depth, or where adjacent spans have widely different geometrics with beam layouts that do not lend themselves to continuity, such as varying beam spacing or splayed framing. Simple spans may also be preferable where the bridge is part of a facility, such as an interchange, where stage construction will require future removal or addition of one or more spans. Simple spans are also desirable where differential substructure settlement is anticipated.

SHEAR WALL DESIGN CONSIDERATIONS

SHEAR WALL DESIGN CONSIDERATIONS

11 11

 

PLywOOD FLOOR

diaphragm

 

SHEAR WALL DESIGN CONSIDERATIONS

SHEAR wALL SHEATHING LAPS RIM jOIST,

OR

FRAMING ANCHOR TIES DIAPHRAGM TO SHEAR wALL STRUT.

 

FOUNDATION

WALL OR FLOOR ; ! STRUCTURE

 

Double TOP PLATE ACTING AS A SHEAR wALL STRUT

 

SPECIAL ANCHOR BOLT EMBEDDED IN FOUNDATION AND/OR CARRIED THROUGH FLOOR STRUCTURE PER MANUFACTURER’S INSTRUCTIONS

 

SHEAR WALL/ROOF DIAPHRAGM

 

SHEAR WALL/ROOF DIAPHRAGM

 

SHEAR WALL DESIGN CONSIDERATIONSSHEAR WALL DESIGN CONSIDERATIONSSHEAR WALL DESIGN CONSIDERATIONSSHEAR WALL DESIGN CONSIDERATIONS

SHEAR WALL DESIGN CONSIDERATIONS

SHEAR WALL DESIGN CONSIDERATIONS

DIAPHRAGM

DRAG STRUT TIES MARGINAL PORTION OF DIAPHRAGM TO SHEAR WALL.

 

SHEAR WALL

 

SHEAR WALL DESIGN CONSIDERATIONS

SHEAR WALL DESIGN CONSIDERATIONS

When shear walls are required on upper floors, they must be tied, through the floor diaphragm, to the shear walls below. If upper and lower shear walls align, their comers may be tied with hold-downs (see 86A) with the lower hold-downs inverted. If the shear walls do not align, their edges may be tied to the diaphragm with a combination of twist straps (for uplift) and framing anchors (for horizontal shear).

ґдЬ SHEAR WALL/SHEAR WALL_______

V—’ Tie between Floors

Drag struts are sometimes required to tie the dia­phragm to the shear walls, especially if the diaphragm is not bounded by shear walls at each end. A drag strut consists of a long metal strap firmly attached to the dia­phragm above the shear wall. The drag strut extends into the diaphragm in a line parallel to the shear wall to pull or “drag” the force from the diaphragm to the shear wall.

DRAG STRUT

Подпись: GARAGE PORTAL FRAME Подпись: REINFORCED WINDOW

SHEAR WALL DESIGN CONSIDERATIONS

Garages with wide doors and limited walls are typical of buildings requiring shear walls. These condi­tions are so typical that several companies have devel­oped proprietary premanufactured walls specifically for garages. The shear walls are strapped to the door header and work in conjunction with it. Garage shear walls are also commonly site-built.

SHEAR WALL DESIGN CONSIDERATIONS

STIFF HEADER

STIFF COLUMN SHEAR PANEL

STRAPS TIE COLUMNS TO PANEL & HEADER.

Engineers can design reinforced windows so the window can extend virtually from wall to wall in small buildings and building extensions. A shear panel below the window opening is strapped to stiff single-piece or built-up columns at the corners. The columns effectively cantilever up from the panel, stiffening the entire wall.

SHEAR WALL DESIGN CONSIDERATIONSПодпись: OVERLAP 4 IN. AT VERTICAL JOINTS.Подпись: ALIGN BOTTOM OF EDGE OF MOISTURE BARRIER WITH BOTTOM EDGE OF SHEATHING. sEE SPECIFIC SIDING TYPE FOR DETAILS.Подпись: OVERLAP 2 IN. TO 4 IN. AT HORIZONTAL JOINTS.SHEAR WALL DESIGN CONSIDERATIONSOnce the walls are framed and sheathed, they must be protected from moisture. This involves the installa­tion of a moisture barrier. The moisture barrier must be coordinated with an air barrier (to control air infil­tration), a vapor retarder (to control water vapor), and insulation.

A moisture barrier (also called a weather barrier or water-resistive barrier) is a membrane directly under the siding that prevents any water penetrating the siding from reaching the sheathing or the framing. An effective moisture barrier stops liquid water but lets water vapor through, thereby letting the wall breathe.

A vapor retarder (formerly known as a vapor barrier) is a membrane on the warm side of the wall (usually the interior) that retards the passage of water vapor from the warm inside air into the cooler wall, where it could condense (see 120).

An air barrier limits the infiltration of air through the wall. Either a moisture barrier or a vapor retarder may be detailed to seal the wall against air infiltration, thereby becoming an air barrier as well (see 120).

STEP 8 INSTALL AND PLUMB DOOR AND WINDOW TRIMMERS

Many builders—even experienced ones—don’t like to spend time plumbing window and door trimmers. But I’ve found that this step really makes a better building. If the door trimmers are plumb, the door’s hinge-side jamb butts solidly against the trimmer along its entire length. There’s no need for shims on this side of the door. That means you save time and obtain solid, continuous backing for the jamb that sup­ports the full weight of the door. If the opposite trimmer is also plumb, the shims you install can
share the same thickness. There’s no fussing to make shims of different sizes. Similarly, win­dow installation benefits from plumb trimmers.

Window trimmers were installed during step 5, when the window assemblies were built on the floor deck. Full-length window trimmers are firmly attached at the bottom corners of the rough window opening, but each trimmer can still be pried away from its king stud to get the trimmer as plumb and straight as possible. Use a straight claw on a framing hammer or a flat bar to pry and a 2-ft. level to test for plumb and straight. When the trimmer is where you want it to be, secure it by toenailing through the header

SHEATHING A WALL

STEP 8 INSTALL AND PLUMB DOOR AND WINDOW TRIMMERSSTEP 8 INSTALL AND PLUMB DOOR AND WINDOW TRIMMERSSTEP 8 INSTALL AND PLUMB DOOR AND WINDOW TRIMMERS
When all the walls have been raised, braced, and lined, it’s time to attach the sheathing. On this house, two types of sheathing are used. To provide shear bracing, OSB panels are installed on all corners and every 25 ft. along exterior walls. Foam-board sheathing is nailed to the framing between wood panels. It’s easier to sheathe right over window and door openings, then cut out the openings from the inside. Foam cuts easily with a handsaw.

Подпись: Plywood and I OSB can be purchased in 9 ft. and 10 ft. lengths. These longer panels can be used when sheathing walls. They are long enough to cover the studs and will extend down over the rim joist and bottom sill. Once nailed, these will tie the structure securely together. Подпись: LADDERS Few things scare me more than working on a ladder. Although they are frequently indispensable, ladders must be treated with the same respect as power saws. Here are a few tips to make working on a ladder safer: ■ Don't buy a cheap ladder. I like the heavy-duty fiberglass models. Look for one with a 1A rating (the best) on the label. When buying an extension ladder, be sure to select one that is long enough to extend 3 ft. above the height of your roof. ■ Aluminum and wet wood can conduct electricity. It's best to use a fiberglass model when working near electrical wiring. ■ Don't stand on the uppermost rungs. Get a longer ladder instead. ■ When working on a ladder, you can lose your balance by reaching too far to the side. If your reach starts to feel precarious, it probably is. Get down and move the ladder. ■ Don't leave tools sitting on top of an unattended ladder. ■ Make sure the ladder's feet are firmly and securely planted on a solid surface before climbing up it. When using an extension ladder, tie it to the building at both the top and the bottom (this is particularly important if it's a windy day).

with 8d nails. Make sure you toenail from both sides of the wall. To lock a trimmer in straight position, hammer a nail clip into each edge of the trimmer, as shown in the illustration on p. 108.

It’s best not to install door trimmers until af­ter the walls have been raised and braced. This way, each trimmer can be measured and cut to fit snugly up against the bottom of the header.

I carry two straight studs to each opening, hold them in position under the header, and mark them to length. When the trimmer has been cut for a snug fit, secure it to the king stud with a single 16d nail driven near the center. Don’t drive any more nails, because you will need to tap the 2 x in or pry it out slightly to get it plumb. Test for plumb with a 6-ft. level. When it is plumb, drive toenails through the header and into the trimmer, then toenail the trimmer to the bottom plate.

Finish by getting the trimmer straight, using nail clips, if necessary. When the sheathing is installed, you can lock the trimmers in place by nailing through the sheathing and into the trimmers’ edges.

Light Clay-Straw Construction

For construction in colder climates, where higher insulation values are required than can be provided by mud alone, several methods

that combine earth with lightweight natural aggregates have evolved. These include mixing mud with pumice, volcanic rock, straw, wood chips, expanded clay, or vermiculite. In the US, clay-straw construction has become the most well-known of these methods because of the work of Robert Laporte of the Econest Build­ing Company, who has taught workshops and built clay-straw structures throughout North America. The Laporte technique uses a light­

weight mixture of clay and straw as an “outsu – lating” wall around a timber-frame structure. Clay-straw can also be used as an infill mate­rial between deep structural members.

Straw is mixed with a clay slurry so that each strand is coated. The wet material is then compacted into a 12-inch-wide formwork, which is removed the same day. The result is a precise wall that has enough texture to accept plaster without any further wall preparation

Подпись: The timber frame structure and light-clay walls of the Baker-Laporte Residence. Builder: Econest Building Co.; Photo: Lisl Dennis.

or lathing. The walls must be allowed to dry thoroughly. Because clay has the capacity to wick water away from the straw that it encases, mold growth has not posed any problem in this wall system if initial full curing takes place in a timely manner. A completed wall that ac­cidentally becomes wet will dry out without developing mold, but the walls must be fin­ished with materials that will allow for suffi­cient vapor diffusion. Earth and lime plasters, or wood siding with a vented air space and an air barrier of earth plaster on the clay-straw (for wetter climates with driving rain), are ideal for this purpose.

A clay-straw wall weighs approximately 50 pounds per cubic foot. The density can be var­ied to provide more mass on the south side of a building and more insulation on the north side, with weights of 60 and 40 pounds per
cubic foot respectively. The average R-value of a 12-inch-thick clay-straw wall has a range of approximately R-19 to R-24,7 making it ther­mally acceptable in all but the coldest regions of North America. The high thermal mass also makes it an excellent material for use in hot, dry regions. In areas with rainfall of more than 30 inches a year, an exterior sheathing of wood with a vented air space between the wood and clay-straw is advised.

Clay-straw is less suitable for locations that do not have a predictable dry season of at least three months duration for proper curing to occur. A similar technique combining clay and cedar wood chips has been used success­fully in wetter climates. These buildings can be dried from the inside out during the win­ter with a wood heat source. Many examples, including some that are several hundred years
old, can be found in Germany, which has an extremely damp climate. The older examples of mud and straw wall construction found in Europe are denser and have a higher clay con­tent than our modern formulas, which are de­signed to have higher insulation values. As with all natural systems, a good above-grade stem wall or plinth and large roof overhang will help protect the walls and increase lon­gevity.

Because clay-straw is non-load-bearing, permitting has been readily granted in many localities. However, if you are interested in building with clay-straw, check with your local building department to determine whether approval will be forthcoming. New Mexico has passed official guidelines for clay-straw construction, and this information, which is available on the Econest website at econest. com, may be helpful for obtaining approval from code officials elsewhere.

Expansion Joint Sealers

Several types of expansion joint-sealing devices are available. Properly sized and installed, they can greatly reduce, if not eliminate, drainage through the joint. Some of the available types are

• Polymer-modified asphalt

• Compression seal

• Slab-type seal

• Strip seal

• Modular seal

Polymer-Modified Asphalt. For resurfacing projects where an asphalt concrete overlay or a portland cement concrete overlay is placed on an existing bridge deck, the approach slab is also overlaid, and the joint movement is moderate (no more than 1.5 in or 38 mm), an expansion joint seal using a poured liquid joint sealer and “armor” of polymer-modified asphalt concrete (elastomeric concrete) can be used. Construction is simple and requires only a minimum of removal of the existing structure, if any. The elastomeric concrete will bond to steel, concrete, or asphalt concrete, and also develop a tenacious bond with the liquid joint sealer, which is poured over backer rod installed between formed vertical faces of the elastomeric concrete. Figure 4.1 illustrates this seal.

Compression Seal. The compression seal (Fig. 4.2) is a rectangular elastomeric tube that has internal webbing and is manufactured by extrusion. It is installed between formed or sawn faces of concrete, or, more commonly in bridges, between steel armor. A lubricant/adhesive is used to facilitate installation and prevent displacement in service.

Cold-applied pourable self-leveling joint sealer

Polymer-modified asphalt

Existing deck surface,

(elastomeric) concrete

asphalt or concrete

Backer rod

FIGURE 4.1 Cross-section of polymer-modified asphalt concrete joint seal.

Подпись: Neoprene Steel armor angle compression seal Deck surface

Compression seals can be of the high-compression type, which relies more on internal compression than on the adhesive to stay in place, or the low-compression type, which relies more on the adhesive. The high-compression type is more subject to loss of tight fit due to compression decay with age, and so is less desirable. Catalogs will not describe the seals in this manner, but manufacturers’ representatives will know. A clue to the type of seal is the number of internal webs, which is greater for the high-compression type.

Compression seals are available for joint widths up to 5 in (127 mm), but some agencies impose a 4-in (102-mm) limit. Some skew can be accommodated by using a larger seal than would be required for an unskewed joint. A maximum allowable skew of 15° (with respect to a line normal to the bridge centerline) is imposed by one state. Seals should be one piece for the entire length of the joint.

A variation of the compression seal is a proprietary seal that has no internal webbing. It is installed in the joint by air inflation, which presses the sides against the supporting surfaces, onto which an epoxy adhesive has been applied. The air pressure is released after an adequate curing period, and the adhesive is relied upon to maintain the seal in position.

Slab-Type Seal. The slab-type sealing device consists of an elastomer and internal steel plates that combine to provide a surface that bridges over the joint opening and supports traffic loads. There are notches in the slab that, along with the elasticity of the elastomer, permit it to change length. The sides of the slab are supported on horizontal steel or concrete surfaces, and a bedding adhesive is applied before the slab is fastened down. The slab is fastened to the bridge by closely spaced bolts.

A primary disadvantage of the slab-type seal is that large stresses are induced in the slab by temperature changes, which, along with pounding by traffic, tend to break it loose. Some users of slab-type seals have had satisfactory experience with them, but most users have changed to other types of seals.

Strip Seal. The strip seal (Fig. 4.3) is an elastomeric extrusion, called a gland, that spans between supporting steel armor. It is anchored by enlargements on the ends of the glands, which are inserted into grooves in the armor. The gland is generally only one layer thick, but some strip seals have two layers, the lower of which should act as a back­up if the top layer is punctured. A lubricant/adhesive is used to facilitate installation. Like

Подпись: Polychloroprene gland Deck surface

the compression seal, the gland should not be spliced. Special tools should be used to install the gland, and the gland should not be stretched during installation. Left by them­selves, contractors may try to use inappropriate tools and brute force to install the gland.

Strip seals can accommodate skew somewhat better than compression seals and are favored by agencies for joint openings larger than can be accommodated by compres­sion seals.

Подпись:
Modular Seal. At the ends of long bridges, or the ends of individual units of long bridges, the joint movement may be greater than can be accommodated by a single joint seal of the types described above. In this case a finger joint with an elastomeric trough may be used, or a modular joint can be provided. The modular joint consists of multiple compression seals or strip seals separated by steel or aluminum structural members, which are in turn supported by bars that span transversely to the joint, parallel to the centerline of the roadway. Figure 4.4 illustrates this type of seal. The support mechanisms can become quite elaborate, with sliding bearings and components to ensure that uniform spacing between longitudinal seal elements is maintained. The designs must provide for joint rotation as well as translation. It is also important that the design of these joints allows for replacement of components.

The fact that many specifiers of sealed expansion joints do not expect them to be, or remain, watertight throughout their life is indicated by the practice recommended for weathering steel bridges (see Art. 4.13). That recommendation is that the steel be painted at the joints, and is applicable to sealed and unsealed joints alike.

Failure of an expansion joint can occur in the sealing mechanism itself, but in the past, failures have occurred as frequently in the anchorages. Some causes of anchorage failure have been

• Inadequate consolidation of concrete below wide legs of armor angles

• Too small or too widely spaced welded stud anchors

• Vulnerability to snowplow damage because the sealing device was not recessed below the wearing surface

• Pressure exerted during thermal changes by overlapping steel angles because the joint design did not properly accommodate longitudinal grade

• Material used to bed or anchor the joint sealing device that was not shrinkage-resistant and broke under traffic

Step-By-Step Instructions

1) image41Buy your materials and order your windows. Be sure the trailer will accommodate the weight of your house. Cut any extra vertical parts off the trailer, but leave the wheel wells intact. Remove all the decking you can. Leave no more than 24” be­tween the remaining boards. These gaps should be cov­ered with aluminum flashing to guard against rodent and water infiltration. Do not put any beneath the porch.

2) image42Assemble the floor framing in front and in back of the wheel wells. Then connect the two sections by framing between the wells. Use screws instead of nails for this and all your fram­ing.

3) image43Fill the cavities with your choice of insulation (in this case, expanded polystyrene foam board with expanding spray foam at the seams). Once again, the porch area should be left open to let wa­ter drain through it.

4) image44Once you cover the whole thing with 3/4” flooring or a subfloor, the exterior wall framing can be erected all along the perimeter. Connect the walls by driving screws through the bottom plates into the floor framing below.

5) image45Put up temporary, diago­nal braces to steady the project while you work. Then install the collar beams (ceil­ing joists). The framing over the wheel wells is supported by horizontal headers which are, in turn, supported by the wheel wells.

6) image46Screw and glue CDX plywood to the exterior surface, and cut openings for the windows and door(s) with your skill saw.

image47

image48

8) Staple house-wrap to the walls. Go ahead and cut holes in the wrap if you anticipate dry weather or if your windows and door(s) are available for installation.

image49

7) Frame the roof and gables. Be sure to fasten the rafters to the walls with metal hurricane clips so that the entire roof does not blow off onto the highway.

image50

9) image51image52
Waterproof the roof with tar paper or some equivalent. Then, run some 1/4” lath up the sides of the house. Place each over a stud. The chan­nels between the strips will serve as air spaces to vent be­neath the siding. This would also be a good time to trim the corners and openings and to put facia boards up around the eaves and rakes.

10) image53Use metal roofing if you plan on moving the house much. Asphalt shingles and most other materials are far more prone to blowing off. When the roof is done, you can put up your siding. Drive screws through it into the lath, and studs below. Caulk the seams where boards meet the wheel wells.

11) image54Fill the wall cavities with your insulation of choice, and frame the interior walls. Then, run the wires and pipes for your plumb­ing and electrical systems. I like to hire professionals to do most of the utilities, as these require a whole new skill set. If your in­sulation is water-permeable, this would be the time to hang some sort of vapor barrier to protect it from potential condensation problems.

image55

13) If your windows and doors are not in place by now, then this would be the time to insert them. You can also start building and/or installing any cabinetry and built-ins you in­tend to include.

image56

12) Your interior wall finish can now be hung. I generally use thin, knotty pine tongue-and-groove paneling be­cause it is so light and easy to install, but drywall and other materials will work, too, so long as you do not ex­ceed your trailer’s weight limit.

image57

14) Put your integral appliances in place and trim your edges. I do tend to put the screws aside and use nails and glue for this part. Finish work is, by far, the most time-consuming part of the entire building process, but, when it is done, your house is done, too. Make yourself at home.

The finished product (right)

I и

SINGLE-WALL CONSTRUCTION

Structural Sheathing

SINGLE-WALL CONSTRUCTIONSINGLE-WALL CONSTRUCTION

SINGLE-WALL CONSTRUCTION

SINGLE-WALL CONSTRUCTION

Подпись: 8-Ft. Panel Typical8-Ft. Panel with Water Table

Подпись: NONSTRUCTURAL SHEATHING

Подпись: (A GYPSUM SHEATHING

SINGLE-WALL CONSTRUCTION

NON-STRUCTURAL

SHEATHING.

SINGLE-WALL CONSTRUCTION

FULL-SIZE PANELS (AFT. X 8FT., 9FT, OR 10FT.) CAN PROVIDE STRUCTURAL

sheathing and/or FIRE resistance.

Many sheet materials that can be used for sheathing do not provide adequate lateral bracing. In addition to providing a base for a moisture barrier and siding, such nonstructural sheathings may also provide insulation or fire protection.

Insulative sheathings range in thickness from V2 in. to 1У2 in. They include fiberboards, foam plastic, and rigid fiberglass boards. R-values vary. Verify that the permeability of the sheathing is coordinated with the permeability of the vapor retarder (see 88A).

Siding must be nailed through nonstructural sheath­ings directly into the studs beneath them. The need for lateral bracing is often satisfied by applying plywood or other structural panels to the corners of a building, with less-expensive nonstructural sheathing elsewhere.

SINGLE-WALL CONSTRUCTION

Fire-protective sheathings are often required at walls on or near property lines, between attached dwellings, and between garages and living space. Type-X gypsum wallboard applied directly to the studs will satisfy most codes. Water-resistant gypsum board applied to the exterior of framed walls can also serve as an underlayment for various siding materials.

Gypsum board can also satisfy code requirements for shear strength. In this application, 4-ft.-wide panels may be applied vertically or horizontally (if covered with a moisture barrier) and must be nailed at 4 in. o. c. at the 4-ft. ends and 8 in. o. c. elsewhere. The panels do not have to be blocked at edges.

While gypsum sheathing can provide fire protection, water resistance, and structural strength, it has severe limitations for the attachment of siding materials. It is not a nailing base, so any siding material applied over it must be connected through the gypsum to the framing behind or to furring strips or another sheathing mate­rial applied over or under the gypsum.

In most cases, minimum code requirements for let-in bracing or structural sheathing will sufficiently stiffen the walls of a light wood-frame building to resist the typical lateral loads of wind or eccentric loading. The stiffened walls act like the sides of a shoe box working in concert with the lid to maintain the overall shape of the box.

In more extreme conditions such as zones with a high risk of earthquakes or severe winds, lateral bracing measures beyond standard structural sheathing or let-in bracing must be taken. For small simple build­ings in these zones, codes typically require increased nailing, strapping, and anchoring, as well as extra framing members.

But it is common to have conditions where even these increased code requirements are not adequate. Such conditions generally involve a building in which numerous wall openings reduce the ability of the wall to resist the lateral forces. In these cases, more extreme measures must be taken to resist lateral loads, and these usually involve calculations by an engineer to design diaphragms coupled with shear walls.

The following diagram summarizes how diaphragms and shear walls work together to resist lateral forces. For simplicity, the diagram shows a wind acting in a single direction perpendicular to the building wall, but in reality, the direction of lateral forces cannot be pre-

SINGLE-WALL CONSTRUCTION

dicted, so lateral resisting systems must be designed for the eventuality of forces in all directions.

The lateral force follows a continuous path through the structure: (1) the force of wind on the windward wall is transferred through studs to the top (and base) of the wall, (2) the diaphragm collects the loads from the top of the windward wall and transfers them to the top of the shear walls at either side, and (3) the shear walls at opposite ends of the diaphragm transfer the loads down to the foundation.

The diagrams on these pages use wind forces to illus­trate how lateral forces follow a continuous path through diaphragm and shear walls. Although these structural elements are designed essentially the same to resist the forces of wind or earthquakes, these two forces act dif­ferently on buildings. Simply stated, wind forces act on the top of a building and earthquake forces act on the bottom. The relatively light weight of wood-frame build­ings works to their advantage in the case of earthquakes, but works against them in the case of high winds.

Diaphragm—A diaphragm is a horizontal structure such as a floor or roof composed of sheathing, framing members, and a structural perimeter. In the case of a floor, the framing members are joists, and the structural perimeter is composed of rim joists and/or blocking (see 32). In the case of a roof, the framing members are common rafters (or trusses), and the structural perim­eter is composed of end rafters (or trusses) and frieze blocks (see 129). A diaphragm acts as a horizontal beam to collect lateral forces and transfer these forces to the shear walls.

SINGLE-WALL CONSTRUCTION

Shear walls—Shear walls are extremely strong framed walls that connect the horizontal diaphragm to the foundation. They act like regular braced or structurally sheathed walls to resist the action of lat­eral forces except that they are much stronger. Their greater strength comes from increased nailing, thicker sheathing, more framing members at their edges, and more substantial anchoring.

Shear walls act as beams cantilevered from the foun­dation (or upper floor) to resist forces parallel to them. They are connected at their base to the foundation (or to another shear wall) and at their top to a diaphragm.

At their base, shear walls must resist both sliding and overturning. Horizontal forces can slide the wall off the foundation if adequate shear connections are not provided. Sliding forces are resisted by anchor bolts, by nailing, and/or by framing anchors at upper floors (see 85).

SINGLE-WALL CONSTRUCTION

LATERAL FORCES FROM DIAPHRAGM

DEFLECTED SHAPE

ANCHOR BOLTS, FRAMING ANCHORS, AND/OR NAILING PREVENT SLIDING

Horizontal forces applied to the top of a shear wall can cause overturning unless the bottom corners are adequately tied (with hold-downs) to resist uplift (see 85 & 86A). While the force is applied, one edge

SINGLE-WALL CONSTRUCTION

LATERAL FORCES FROM DIAPHRAGM

DEFLECTED SHAPE

LEEWARD EDGE UNDER COMPRESSION

HOLD-DOWN ANCHOI TO FOUNDATION COUNTERACTS TENSION ON WINDWARD EDGE TO PREVENT OVERTURNING.

of the wall will be in tension while the opposite edge is in compression.

Longer shear walls are inherently better because they have a longer base to resist sliding and because the hold-downs are farther apart to resist overturning.

Connections—Because shear walls involve a large number and variety of components and connec­tions, it is critical that each connection be designed and constructed to resist the forces that pass through it. Depending on their location, connections may be called upon to resist vertical and horizontal forces in several directions. When designing and building to resist extreme conditions, it is especially important to pay close attention to manufacturers’ instructions for the installation of connectors. A shear wall is only as strong as its weakest connection.

Distribution—Shear walls are generally located within each (principal) exterior wall of a building, but may also be located strategically at interior walls. For earthquake resistance, shear walls should generally be balanced on all four sides of the building; for wind resistance, however, shear walls should be longer (or stronger, see 85B) at the short walls in order to resist the larger wind forces imposed on the long walls.

SINGLE-WALL CONSTRUCTION

THE BUILDING’S PERIMETER.

SHEAR WALLS CONNECT TO FLOOR DIAPHRAGM. SEE 86B

Подпись: NOTE FOR GARAGE PORTAL FRAME, SEE 87C. Подпись:Подпись: OPENINGS IN WALL LIMIT SHEAR WALL LOCATION AND SizEПодпись:Подпись:Подпись:Подпись:Подпись:SINGLE-WALL CONSTRUCTIONDRAG strut TIEs

shear wall TO diaphragm.

SEE 87b

LARGE WALLS On upper levels MAY uSE STANDARD

code-prescribed

SHEATHING TO provide LATERAL RESISTANCE.

Because lateral forces such as wind are assumed to act perpendicularly to the walls of a building, they can theoretically be resisted by shear walls in each of the four walls of a simple building. Forces acting in a north-south direction, for example, can be resisted by shear walls located in the east and west walls of the building (and vice versa). When the wind blows on a diagonal (as it usually does), shear walls in all four walls will be in play.

Because they connect diaphragm to the foundation, shear walls cannot be placed where there are openings in the wall. Therefore, in walls with many openings, there may need to be several shear wall segments in order to provide ample resistance to lateral forces.

Shear walls are most effective when they are wide relative to their height and their base anchors are far
apart. For this reason, codes have specified that shear walls must have a height-to-width ratio of 3.5:1 or less. The practical effect of this limitation is a mini­mum shear wall width of approximately 2 ft. for a wall 8 ft. tall.

In a building with more than one floor, the need for shear walls is greater on floors nearest the ground. This is because the lower floors are required to resist the forces from upper floors in addition to their own. It is not unusual to have a two-stoiy wood-frame building with engineered shear walls on the ground floor and standard code-prescribed sheathing on the upper floor.

The calculation of shear wall values is fairly com­plicated—involving different factors for earthquake or wind forces—and is thus usually performed by a licensed engineer.

DOUBLE TOP PLATE ACTS AS A STRUT.

 

DOUBLE STUDS AT EDGES ACT AS CHORDS THAT STIFFEN EDGE AND PROVIDE THICK ANCHORAGE FOR HOLD-DOWNS AT Base.

 

blocking as required prevents buckling of PANEL EDGES.

 

HOLD-DOwNS AT BASE CONNECT TO FOuNDATION OR OTHER SHEAR wALLS

to prevent overturning.

 

ANCHOR BOLTS PREvENT SLIDING.

 

SINGLE-WALL CONSTRUCTION

(g) COMPONENTS OF A SHEAR WALL

SINGLE-WALL CONSTRUCTION

Once the lateral forces have been determined, there are seven basic considerations that need to be taken into account when designing a shear wall:

Proportion— Most codes specify a maximum height-to-width ratio of 3.5:1. This generally means that shear walls cannot be less than 2 ft. wide.

Hold-downs— Extreme forces at the lower corners of shear walls necessitate metal hold­downs to connect the shear-wall chord to the founda­tion or to lower shear walls (see 85A & 86A). There are a variety of types and capacities of hold-downs.

Anchor bolts— To prevent sliding, anchor bolts are used to connect the base of a shear wall to the foundation. At framed floors, framing anchors and nailing are used to prevent sliding. Hold-downs also resist sliding but are not generally considered in engineering calculations.

Sheathing Strength – The strength of the rated sheathing must match the required capacity of the shear wall. Sheathing on both sides of the shear wall will double its capacity. All panel edges must be blocked to prevent buckling of the panel.

Chord Strength—At the boundaries of the shear wall where stress is greatest, chords must be stronger than standard studs. A minimum of two studs is required by most codes (see 85A).

Strut Strength— Like chords, stmts are at the boundary of shear walls where stresses are greatest. Typical framing (i. e., single sole plate and double top plate) is usually sufficient as struts. Splices in struts should be avoided if possible.

Nailing—Size and spacing of nails must be specified. More nailing is required at the edges of panels than in the field of the panel. Increased nailing acts to increase wall strength (see 78A).

Expansion Joints

Bridge roadway expansion joints are provided to accommodate the thermal changes in the superstructure, and, in the case of prestressed-concrete bridges, to accommodate creep shortening of the superstructure as well. They are required at abutments that are restrained against longitudinal movement and at the end of supported superstructures free to translate due to provision of expansion bearings. In some long-span steel bridges, expansion joints and expansion bearings must also accommodate change of length of span due to live load deflections. Expansion joints are not required in short bridges where movement is small— for example, in steel bridges with span less than 50 ft (15 m)—or in longer bridges where the superstructure is fixed to the abutment (jointless bridges or integral construction). For these longer bridges, designs that eliminate or minimize bridge expansion joints, without introducing problems in the approach roadway or causing distress in the superstructure or substructure, are favored. (See Arts. 4.15 and 4.16.7.)

Expansion joints, or, more accurately, rotation joints, are also provided where the deck is made discontinuous, or a hinge is provided, in anticipation of settlement of the end of a span.

Where expansion joints are required, they should be sized to accommodate the anticipated movement with a liberal allowance. A joint-sealing device such as a strip seal can be destroyed by one occurrence of a record cold period. For deep simple-span girders, the joint movement due to live load rotation of the end of the span should be included. Specifications for installation of joints should take setting temperature into account. A table giving required joint opening dimensions for different ambient tem­peratures is preferred over an equation for adjustment of a fixed dimension that is applicable to a given temperature. In areas where roadway deicing salts are not applied, it may not be necessary to seal expansion joints. Even in this case, though, sealed expansion joints will prevent intrusion of foreign objects, which can damage the bridge by causing excessive local pressure, and will prevent accumulation of debris on bridge seats.

Large-capacity open expansion joints can be fabricated using steel plates with meshed fingers, the so-called finger joint. Finger joints have served well for many years on many bridges. The plates used in these joints must be thick to withstand the direct cantilever wheel loading to which the fingers are subjected. The two halves of finger joints are massive steel fabrications, but they can be gas-cut with accurate dimensional control. In snowplow areas, where the ends of the fingers may be snagged by the plow blade, the use of a finger joint should be avoided, or the ends of the fingers should be rounded downward. In areas where joints should be sealed, the finger joint surface may be left open, but an elastomeric trough should be installed beneath the joint.

Bicycles should not be permitted on bridges with finger joints, because the wheels can drop into the space between fingers, causing injury to the rider. Conversely, open finger joints should not be used on bridges on which bicycles are permitted.

In areas of salt application, expansion joints must be sealed. Northern states have incurred tremendous cost to repair damage to superstructures and substructures in the form of steel corrosion, prestressed-concrete beam deterioration, and concrete spalling due to salt drainage through open or inadequately sealed expansion joints.

Extrapolation problems

Most often frequency analysis is applied for the purpose of estimating the mag­nitude of truly rare events, e. g., a 100-year flood, on the basis of short data series. Viessman et al. (1977, pp. 175-176) note that “as a general rule, fre­quency analysis should be avoided… in estimating frequencies of expected hydrologic events greater than twice the record length.” This general rule is followed rarely because of the regulatory need to estimate the 100-year flood; e. g., the U. S. Water Resources Council (1967) gave its blessing to frequency analyses using as few as 10 years of peak flow data. In order to estimate the 100-year flood on the basis of a short record, the analyst must rely on extrap­olation, wherein a law valid inside a range of p is assumed to be valid outside of p. The dangers of extrapolation can be subtle because the results may look plausible in the light of the analyst’s expectations.

The problem with extrapolation in frequency analysis can be referred to as “the tail wagging the dog.” In this case, the “tail” is the annual floods of rela­tively high frequency (1- to 10-year events), and the “dog” is the estimation of extreme floods needed for design (e. g., the floods of 50-, 100-, or even higher-year return periods). When trying to force data to fit a mathematical distribution, equal weight is given to the low end and high end of the data series when trying to determine high-return-period events. Figure 3.6 shows that small changes in the three smallest annual peaks can lead to significant changes in the 100-year peak owing to “fitting properties” of the assumed flood frequency distribution. The analysis shown in Fig. 3.6 is similar to the one presented by Klemes (1986); in this case, a 26-year flood series for Gilmore Creek at Winona, Minnesota, was analyzed using the log-Pearson type 3 distribution employing the skew­ness coefficient estimated from the data. The three lowest values in the annual maximum series (22, 53, and 73 ft3/s) then were changed to values of 100 ft3/s (as if a crest-stage gauge existed at the site with a minimum flow value of 100 ft3/s), and the log-Pearson type 3 analysis was repeated. The relatively small absolute change in these three events changed the skewness coefficient from 0.039 to 0.648 and the 100-year flood from 7,030 to 8,530 ft3/s. As discussed by Klemes (1986), it is illogical that the 1- to 2-year frequency events should have such a strong effect on the rare events.

Under the worst case of hydrologic frequency analysis, the frequent events can be caused by a completely different process than the extreme events. This situation violates the initial premise of hydrologic frequency analysis, i. e., to find some statistical relation between the magnitude of an event and its like­lihood of occurrence (probability) without regard for the physical process of flood formation. For example, in arid and semiarid regions of Arizona, frequent events (1- to 5-year events) are caused by convective storms of limited spa­tial extent, whereas the major floods (> 10-year events) are caused by frontal

Extrapolation problems

1 10 100 Return period, in years

Figure 3.6 Flood frequency analysis for Gilmore Creek at Winona, Minnesota, for 1940-1965 computed with the log-Pearson type 3 distribution fitted to (1) the original annual maximum series and (2) to the original annual maximum series with the three smallest annual peaks set to 100 ft3/s.

monsoon-type storms that distribute large amounts of rainfall over large areas for several days. Figure 3.7 shows the daily maximum discharge series for the Agua Fria River at Lake Pleasant, Arizona, for 1939-1979 and clearly indi­cates a difference in magnitude and mechanism between frequent and infre­quent floods. In this case estimating the 100-year flood giving equal weight in the statistical calculations to the 100 ft3/s and the 26,000 ft3/s flows seems in­appropriate, and an analyst should be prepared to use a large safety factor if standard frequency analysis methods were applied.

Подпись: 0 1 10 100 Return period, in years Figure 3.7 Return periods for the annual maximum daily flow of the Agua Fria River at Lake Pleasant, Arizona, for 1939-1979.

Another problem with “the tail wagging the dog” results when the watershed experiences substantial changes. For example, in 1954 the Vermilion River, Illinois, Outlet Drainage District initiated a major channelization project in­volving the Vermilion River, its North Fork, and North Fork tributaries. The project was completed in the summer of 1955 and resulted in changing the nat­ural 35-ft-wide North Fork channel to a trapezoidal channel 100 ft in width and the natural 75-ft-wide Vermilion channel to a trapezoidal channel 166 ft in width. Each channel also was deepened 1 to 6 ft (U. S. Army Corps of Engineers, 1986). Discharges less than about 8,500 ft3/s at the outlet remain in the modified channel, whereas those greater than 8,500 ft3/s go overbank. At some higher discharge, the overbank hydraulics dominate the flow, just as they did before the channelization. Thus the more frequent flows are increased by the improved hydraulic efficiency of the channel, whereas the infrequent events are still subject to substantial attenuation by overbank flows. Thus the frequency curve is flattened relative to the pre-channelization condition, where the more frequent events are also subject to overbank attenuation. The pre – and post­channelization flood frequency curves cross in the 25- to 50-year return period

Extrapolation problems

1 10 100 1000

Return period, in years

Figure 3.8 Peak discharge frequency for the Vermilion River at Pontiac, Illinois, for pre-channelized (1943-1954) and post-channelized (1955-1991) conditions.

range (Fig. 3.8), resulting in the illogical result that the pre-channelization condition results in a higher 100-year flood than the post-channelization con­dition. Similar results have been seen for flood flows obtained from continuous simulation applied to urbanizing watersheds (Bradley and Potter, 1991).