FRAMING A PLATFORM FOR A FORCED-AIR HEATING UNIT

Подпись: SIDE VIEW

FRAMING A PLATFORM FOR A FORCED-AIR HEATING UNIT FRAMING A PLATFORM FOR A FORCED-AIR HEATING UNIT Подпись: І FRAMING A PLATFORM FOR A FORCED-AIR HEATING UNIT FRAMING A PLATFORM FOR A FORCED-AIR HEATING UNIT FRAMING A PLATFORM FOR A FORCED-AIR HEATING UNIT

FRONT VIEW

36 in.

Some furnace rooms need a platform so the heating unit can receive combustion air from below.

FRAMING A PLATFORM FOR A FORCED-AIR HEATING UNIT

FRAMING A PLATFORM FOR A FORCED-AIR HEATING UNIT

my carpenter-daughter, you can hop right up on the plates and start lying the walls together. Otherwise, it’s best to work on a sturdy ladder.

The corner marks you drew on the plates earlier now serve as guides when railing off the top plates. Make sure that the double top plate is on these lines and that the top plates of both walls are touching. If necessary, toe­nail a 16d nail up through the top plate of the through wall into the double top plate of the butt wall to draw everything together, as shown in the photo at left. Nail two I6d nails through the lap into the intersecting wall.

TOENAIL THE TOP PLATE. Draw intersecting walls together by nailing through the top plate of one and into the double top plate of the other.

Wood Insulated Concrete Forms

Wood insulated concrete forms (WICFs) were invented of necessity in Europe follow­ing World War II. Massive rebuilding was required and there was a shortage of conven­tional building materials. Waste wood was plentiful, and insulating forms made by mix­ing mineralized (clay impregnated) wood chips with cement proved to be a good way to conserve both precious fuel and scarce con­crete. These wood and cement masonry units had many excellent building properties. They were lightweight and noncombustible, had a high strength-to-weight ratio, and were di­mensionally stable, insulative, and resistant to freeze-thaw, rot, insects, and fungus growth. The resulting structures were more durable, energy efficient, and economical than struc­tures built by prewar methods. In continu­ous use since the 1940s under various brand names, WICFs are still a preferred method of construction throughout Europe.

In North America, WICFs are avail­able through Durisol, Faswall, and Healthy Buildings Made Easy. They come as inter­locking hollow blocks similar to cinder or masonry unit blocks. They are dry-stacked (without mortar) and filled with concrete and reinforcing steel. Durisol produces special thermal units that can incorporate mineral fiber insulation inserts to reach an R-value of 28. Faswall is a shorter, heavier block with thicker walls that can incorporate different in ­sulation inserts to produce an R-value of 26.

Although all the cores are usually filled with concrete, a more ecological application is to use concrete only in the cores where steel re­bar is required and to fill the other cores with natural insulation or earth. WICFs are consid­ered to be a form of vapor diffusible or breath­ing wall construction.

Aerated Autoclaved Concrete

Aerated autoclaved concrete (AAC) was first developed by a Swedish engineer between 1920 and 1932. It has since been refined into a concrete-based block material with high in­sulation used for both load – and non-load­bearing walls. AAC is manufactured from quartz sand, lime and/or cement as the bind­ing agent, aluminum powder, and water. The aluminum powder reacts with calcium hy­droxide and water to form tiny hydrogen gas bubbles. At the end of the foaming process the hydrogen escapes into the atmosphere and re­acts with air to form water, and air replaces the hydrogen in the formed bubbles. The finished block does not contain aluminum. The final block form is autoclaved under heat and pres­sure to reach full strength.

AAC block construction uses standard masonry skills and is installed in a manner similar to regular cinder block, using a thinset instead of a cement mortar. Where reinforcing is required by code, special units with bored cylindrical holes can be vertically stacked and filled with rebar and cement grout, thus

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minimizing the use of cement. No blocking is required, and shelving and other attach­ments can be screwed directly into the walls. The blocks can be sawn, cut and shaped with woodworking tools. The solid, lightweight walls combine thermal mass and high insu­lation values. They have outstanding seismic, acoustic, and fire performance. The walls can be plastered inside and out and are inert and stable, with no toxic outgassing. This system has worked well for people with chemical sen­

sitivities, but sensitive individuals should pre­test the thinset mortars for acceptability. In North America, aerated autoclaved concrete is manufactured by Aercon, Contec, Huma – built HumaBlock, and TruStone.

Conclusion

A variety of natural materials can be used to create heirloom quality buildings that are eco­logically sound, promote health, and have

Подпись: This "Santa Fe Style" residence features pumice-crete walls, hard trowelled plaster interior wall finishes, sustainably harvested maple flooring, central air filtration and specialty finishes throughout. Architect: Baker-Laporte and Associates; Builder: Prull and Associates. Photo: Lisl Dennis.

outstanding energy efficiency. In short, natu­ral building materials may be superior in all these respects to the standard building systems prevalent in industrial countries. An owner choosing to use a natural alternative building system is a pioneer who may be well rewarded for an adventuresome spirit. Regional factors such as drainage, rainfall, temperature, hu­midity, freeze and thaw cycles, and the avail­ability of natural materials will make some natural building systems more suitable for certain locations than others.

When planning to build with alternative materials, make careful inquiry to determine the status of these materials with local build­ing authorities to ensure that the alternative you choose will be permitted in your jurisdic­tion. Each of the model building codes used in the United States has a provision for alterna­tive methods and materials. Building officials of the jurisdiction in which a project is located have the authority to approve any building they deem adequately meets the intentions
and provisions of the code. It may be necessary to educate a building official about the materi­als you intend to use, and it is worthwhile to gather information about code approvals that have been granted elsewhere for the same ma­terials. If a building official is unable to make a determination about the alternative material you are presenting, it may be possible to move forward with approvals by creating a legal document holding the building department harmless. DCAT is a nonprofit organization dedicated to addressing the challenge of insti­tutional barriers to sustainable building and development found in building codes.

Earlier in the 20th century it was incum­bent upon industrial manufacturers to prove to code officials that their products performed as well as their preindustrial counterparts. The powerful forces of industry, with their finan­cial capability to test manufactured products, have now completely reversed the situation to the point where nonproprietary materials and methods of construction are viewed as inferior.

Подпись: AAC home under construction. Photo: Paula Baker Laporte.

Ironically, this is so in spite of the thousands of years of research and development that have gone into the refinement of natural building techniques. In order to gain more widespread acceptance into mainstream building venues in this country, each example of natural build­ing mustbe well-conceived, well-documented, and based on a sound knowledge of the laws of nature. In fact, a thorough understanding of building science is even more important for designers and builders using these alternative systems because of the high degree of experi­mentation involved in adapting ancient tech­niques to modern comfort and performance demands.

We would like to emphasize that the use of natural construction materials does not automatically create a healthy home. The ma­terial used in the buildings walls is only one of many components that go into creating a home environment. However, when the alter­native systems described in this chapter are
used in conjunction with the other principles of healthy building outlined in this book, it is possible to produce buildings of exceptional vitality.

Further Reading

Baker-Laporte, Paula and Robert Laporte. EcoNest: Creating Sustainable Sanctuaries of Clay, Straw and Timber. Gibbs Smith, Publisher, 2005. Chiras, Daniel D. The Natural House. Chelsea Green Publishing Company, 2000.

Cob Cottage Company Earth Building and Cob Revival: A Reader. 3rd ed., Cob Cottage Company, 1996.

Easton, David. The Rammed Earth House. Chelsea Green Publishing Company, 1996.

Elizabeth, Lynne and Cassandra Adams, eds. Al­ternative Construction: Contemporary Natural Building Methods. John Wiley and Sons, 2000. Evans, Ianto et al. The Hand Sculpted House. Chelsea Green Publshing Company, 2002.

Kennedy, Joseph et al., eds. The Art of Natural Build­ing. New Society Publishers, 2002.

King, Bruce. Buildings of Earth and Straw. Solar Liv­ing Center, 1996.

The Last Straw: Vie International Quarterly Journal of Straw Bale and Natural Building. See thelast straw. org.

MacDonald, S. O, and Matts Myhrman. Build It With Bales: A Step-by-Step Guide to Straw-Bale Con­struction. Treasure Chest Books, 1997.

McHenry, Paul G. Adobe: Build It Yourself Univer­sity of Arizona Press, 1985.

Minke, Gernot. Earth Construction Handbook: The Building Ma terial Earth in Modern Architecture. WIT Press, 2000.

Roodman, David Malin and Nicholas K. Lenssen.

A Building Revolution: How Ecology and Health Concerns Are Transforming Construction. World­watch Paper 124,1995.

Steen, Athena Swentzell et al. The Straw Bale House.

Chelsea Green Publishing Company, 1994.

Steen, Bill et al. Built by Hand. Gibbs Smith, Pub­lisher, 2003.

Wanek, Catherine. Vie New Straw Bale Home. Gibbs Smith, Publisher, 2003.

Weismann, Adam and Katy Bryce. Building with Cob: A Step-by-Step Guide. Green Books, 2006.

Safety items on the job site

• Keep a first-aid kit on the job site at all times.

• Keep the sun off your body. It may be okay to wear tank tops, shorts, and sandals to the beach, but these are not okay to wear on a construction site day in and day out. You won’t stay cooler by letting the hot sun beat directly on you. Wear long-sleeve shirts, jeans, good shoes, and a wide-brim hat when the sun is shining. If you are especially sensitive to the sun, keep a bottle of sunblock handy. (If you aren’t con­vinced of the value of protecting yourself from the harsh sun, ask an old carpenter with skin cancer to find out what he thinks about it.)

• Don’t wear loose-fitting clothing or jewelry that can get caught in a power tool. If you have long hair, tie it up for the same reason.

• Drink lots of water. It’s easy for the body to become dehydrated on a hot day. Dehydration can lead to heat exhaustion, which can lead to accidents.

• Keep a hard hat handy. Many carpenters resist wearing hard hats, but when someone is working overhead, wearing a hard hat below is a good idea. You may have a hard head, but it won’t be hard enough to protect you from falling tools or lumber. [6] in a sock and carry them with you. If you wear pre­scription glasses, don’t think they protect your eyes. Standard prescription lenses are not rated to shield your eyes from flying objects. You need lenses that are made specifically for safety. I wear safety glasses with plastic prescription lenses and side protectors.

• Use ear protection whenever operating a loud power tool like a router or circular saw. Otherwise, make “huh?” part of your vocabulary. I keep a few sponge ear plugs in a 35-mm film canister and store them in my toolbucket so that I have them with me at all times.

• Wear knee pads to protect your knees—for example, when putting down roofing or nailing down flooring.

• Lungs need protection, too. A dust mask helps keep large particles out of your lungs. I use one when sanding or when working in an enclosed area with poor ventilation. With toxic materials, wear a respira­tor. I have often worn a respirator during remodeling jobs in which I’ve ripped out old plaster and insula­tion. When ripping out these materials, the dust parti­cles may be small enough to penetrate a dust mask (and some older plaster may even contain asbestos).

• Protect your hands with gloves when necessary. Wear light rubber gloves when painting or staining to prevent harmful materials from entering your body through your pores. Use heavy work gloves to protect your hands from wood slivers when handling rough lumber.

Flat plate straps are another type of anchor used to tie wooden members together. They are made from heavy – gauge metal, contain numerous fastener holes, and come in many different widths and lengths (up to 4 ft. long).

Hold-downs are heavy-gauge, L-shaped metal anchors that help prevent house uplift by connecting the building to the foundation. They often attach near the mudsill with an anchor bolt set in the concrete foundation and are bolted to posts in the wood frame.

Post caps attach larger posts, like 4x4s, to beams or to concrete. L – or T-straps connect two members that meet in a right-angle or T configuration, such as when a beam rests on a post.

Reinforced-Concrete Flat-Slab Bridge

For short simple spans (up to 30 ft or 9.1 m) and for somewhat longer continuous spans (interior spans up to 55 ft or 16.8 m), reinforced-concrete flat slabs provide a minimum – depth bridge. Figure 4.5 shows a schematic of this bridge type. At a slab depth of about 2 ft (610 mm), the slab begins to become uneconomical, with too much of the section required to support itself.

Falsework is required to construct the slab. Where space is available beneath the struc­ture, scaffolding may be used. If the bridge is over a stream, or over a highway or railroad

TABLE 4.2 Approximate Maximum Span for Various Types of Bridges

Подпись: Approximate

maximum

Type span, ft (m)

Reinforced-concrete flat slab, continuous 55 (17)

Composite steel beam (36-in series), simple 100 (30)

Precast prestressed-concrete voided box beam 120 (37)

Precast prestressed-concrete beams (bulb-tee), simple 120 (37)

Composite steel beam (36-in series), continuous 125 (38)

Precast prestressed-concrete beams (bulb-tee), made-continuous 140 (43)

Composite steel plate girder, simple 230 (70)

Precast prestressed-concrete beams (bulb-tee) spliced 250 (76)

Cast-in-place (on falsework) posttensioned-concrete box girder, continuous 300 (91)

Precast posttensioned segmental concrete box girder, continuous, 400 (122)

balanced cantilever

Composite steel plate girder, continuous, parallel flange 460 (140)

Composite steel plate girder, continuous, haunched 540 (165)

Cast-in-place posttensioned segmental concrete box girder, continuous, 850 (259)

balanced cantilever

Steel arch (New River Gorge, Fayetteville, West Virginia, U. S.A.)[3] [4] 1700 (518)

Steel cantilever truss (Pont de Quebec, Canada)* 1800 (549)

Steel cable-stayed (Stonecutters, Hong Kong)* 3340 (1018)

Suspension (Akashi Kaiko, Japan)* 6529 (1990)

where traffic must be maintained, the falsework must include support beams to span over the feature crossed. In that case, camber should be built into the falsework to compensate for its deflection. Also, the falsework must provide for the vertical geometry of the bridge and for deflection of the slab after removal of the falsework.

Longer continuous-slab spans can be constructed if the slab is haunched, that is, made deeper over the piers or bents. However, the cost and difficulty of constructing the forms, and bending and placing the longitudinal reinforcing bars, often negates the advantage of haunched construction.

Another type of construction that can be used to extend the span capability of slab bridges is voided construction. Voids, similar to those used to fabricate prestressed- concrete box beams, are used to replace the relatively ineffective concrete at mid-depth of the slab, thereby reducing the weight of the slab. However, where this type of construc­tion has been used, it has generally been found to be more expensive than competitive types of bridges. A principal reason is the cost of providing adequate hold-down devices to prevent the voids from floating when the concrete is placed.

For balanced design of continuous-slab bridges, the usual rule that the end span should be shorter than the adjacent interior span may not apply. In the design of a three – span continuous flat-slab bridge with three equal spans of 30 ft (9.1 m), considering an HS 25 live load (a load 25 percent greater than HS 20) and the AASHTO Alternate Military Loading, a good balance resulted between maximum positive and negative moments using equal span lengths.

STEP 9 SHEATHE THE WALLS

I lived through the 6.8-magnitude earthquake that hit Northridge, California, in 1992. It made me believe in wall sheathing. A 6.8 quake is not a big one, yet a number of people lost their lives. More lives would have been lost if critical areas in buildings had not been sheathed with ply­wood or OSB. The buildings that held up best were small, single-story wood-frame houses, such as those built by Habitat. Many were knocked several feet from their foundation, but they didn’t collapse on their occupants.

Unlike drywall, stucco, and most exte­rior siding, plywood and OSB wall sheathing provide both lateral (horizontal) and verti­cal strength. Sheathing helps hold buildings together and makes a house windproof, which is important if you live in an area where cold winds are a reality.

Because sheathing panels will be covered with finished siding, they don’t need to be installed perfectly. Earthquake – and hurricane – country sheathing codes are often quite strict, so check with your local building department before you start covering walls. Again, remem­ber to insulate corners, channels, headers, and behind tubs before you attach wall sheathing.

Install sheathing on the corners first

I always install sheathing on the corners first (see the left photo on p. 109). To hold a sheet in position while you get ready to nail it, try driv­ing a couple of 16d nails near the bottom of the wall. Keep plywood and OSB in. away from a masonry foundation. If the stud layout is cor­rect, the edge of the first panel should fall on a stud 4 ft. from the corner. In humid areas, leave a //8-in. expansion gap between sheets. If a sheet
doesn’t break on the center of a stud, rip the sheet to fit, move the wall stud, or put in an extra stud.

You can sheathe right over windows and doors and cut them out later with a reciprocat­ing saw. Use scrap pieces to fill in gable ends and underneath windows or to cover rim joists.

I also sheathe various walls inside the house, though this goes beyond most codes. I do this because I know that a few extra sheets of OSB might save someone’s life during an earthquake or a tornado. Sheathing the back wall of a closet, bathroom, or utility room gives the frame extra lateral stability. In areas prone to serious torna­does, you may be required to create an entirely sheathed and well-anchored safety room in which household members can gather during a storm.

The nailing schedule lor sheathed walls often requires 8d or 10d nails at 4-6-12. This means that nails are spaced 4 in. around the perimeters of walls, 6 in. at the joints between sheathing panels, and 12 in. in the field. Check with your building department for the required nailing schedule in your area.

Siding Often Determines the Type of Housewrap

When you’re using vinyl siding, which comes with built-in drainage holes and fits on the wall loosely, an ordinary smooth­faced housewrap provides good drainage. But with tightly fastened board siding, any water trapped between the siding and a smooth housewrap will sit and eventually could make its way through the housewrap and into the framing. Remember, although many housewraps are good at resisting bulk water, they should not be considered waterproof.

In these cases, it’s a good idea to choose a furrowed rain-screen housewrap. Its embossed texture provides just enough air­space for liquid water to drain away before it has a chance to penetrate the membrane (see "Rain screen and housewrap com­bined," p. 76).

When applying stucco, choose a house – wrap designed specifically for stucco and masonry, such as DuPont’s StuccoWrap or Benjamin Obdyke’s Mortairvent®, which not only provide a corrugated surface but also are compatible with the chemicals in stucco.

Подпись:Housewrap Choices

Siding Often Determines the Type of Housewrap

Siding Often Determines the Type of Housewrap
Siding Often Determines the Type of Housewrap

(Dow)

Type: Nonwoven polyolefin Perm rating: 6.7 Notes: Membrane has a more substantial, foamlike texture compared to other housewraps. 866-583-2583; www. dow. com/styrofoam

Weathermate (Dow) Type: Perforated, woven polyolefin Perm rating: >5.0 Notes: Translucent; perforated products are less resistant to water intrusion; does not meet the air-barrier requirement of the National Building Code of Canada. 866-583-2583; www. dow. com/styrofoam

Barricade®

(Berry Plastics Corporation)

Type: Perforated, woven polyolefin Perm rating: 9.0 Notes: Translucent; perforated products are less resistant to water intrusion; resists UV- degradation for 12 months. 877-832-0333; www. berryplastics. com

Siding Often Determines the Type of Housewrap

I Still Prefer Felt Paper

Based on my lab testing at the Univer­sity of Massachusetts, if I were buying housewrap today, I likely would choose a nonperforated product because it displays the best water resistance.

As it happens, I have felt paper on my own home. If I could do it over again and choose between felt and housewrap, I’d still choose felt. That’s because I believe that under cer­tain circumstances, felt paper outperforms housewrap.

For example, an ice dam or a roof leak might allow liquid water to get behind the

felt or housewrap. It’s also possible for the sun’s heat to drive water vapor through the housewrap from the outside, where it can condense on the sheathing. In either case, you have liquid water on the wrong side of the wrap. Under these conditions, the liquid water is trapped by the housewrap, which is permeable only to diffusion of water vapor. Felt, on the other hand, absorbs water and dries more quickly to the outside.

Paul Fisette is director of building materials and wood technology at the University of Massachusetts.

Siding Often Determines the Type of HousewrapSiding Often Determines the Type of HousewrapSiding Often Determines the Type of HousewrapSiding Often Determines the Type of Housewrap

R-Wrap (Berry Plastics Corporation)

Type: Nonwoven polyolefin Perm rating: 56.0 Notes: Membrane can be installed with printed logo in or out without change in performance; manufac­turer will replace product if damaged by wind. 877-832-0333; www. berryplastics. com

GreenGuard® Value (Pactiv® Corporation) Type: Perforated, woven polyolefin Perm rating: 15.0 Notes: Low-cost house – wrap for the value­conscious builder. Resists UV-degradation for 12 months; translucent membrane makes it easy to see where to nail siding. 800-241-4402; www. green-guard. com

GreenGuard Classic (Pactiv Corporation) Type: Perforated, woven polyolefin Perm rating: 15.0 Notes: Resists UV – degradation for 12 months. Highly tear – resistant; translucent, glare-reducing green color. 800-241-4402; www. green-guard. com

GreenGuard Ultra (Pactiv Corporation) Type: Nonwoven polyolefin Perm rating: 48.0 Notes: Uses a reinforcing scrim that makes it highly tear-resistant. Translucent membrane makes it easy to see where to nail siding. 800-241-4402; www. green-guard. com

CHARACTERISTICS AND SELECTION OF BRIDGE TYPES

The type of bridge and the span layouts are interdependent. Bridge type cannot be selected without regard to the length of spans, the ratio of adjacent span lengths, and whether spans are to be made continuous.

Table 4.2 lists common types of bridges and the maximum span lengths below which they may be an economical choice. The maximum spans tabulated are approximate, and are presented as a guide only. They are subject to increase as technology advances. Similarly, increases in specified live load may tend to reduce the maximum span. The economic competitiveness of a particular bridge type varies with regional availability and workload of fabricators and specialty contractors, yearly fluctuations of labor and material costs, and other factors. Thus, it is usually desirable to seek and permit bids on alternative bridge types.

Characteristics of some of the more common bridge types for short and intermediate spans and considerations in their selection are discussed in the following articles.

Cultivating Coincidence

On all the buildings I’ve done with old barn timbers, I would catalog the pieces that I’d been able to procure, using a legal pad or clipboard. I’d record the sectional dimensions of each piece, its useful length, and its condition. Then I would match the cataloged pieces to my plan, to see how I could make the available pieces mesh with what I needed. Sometimes I’d have a few timbers left over — I’d save them for the next project or make them available to another owner-builder — and sometimes I’d have to seek out certain timbers to make up a shortfall. We scored timbers from a variety of sources: eight-by-eights and the like from barns within a 25-mile radius, and lots of good three-by-ten floor joists from the old Masonic hall in West Chazy, New York, as well as from an old Adirondack Inn being tom down for salvage.

I mention these finds to illustrate that it is not just old barns that yield good heavy timbers, but also old commercial buildings and even homes. The best way to increase your chances of finding material like this is to “cultivate your luck.” The more tentacles you send out into the world, the better the chances of latching on to something. Some call this networking. I think of it in mathematical terms: There are no coincidences. There is simply a probability of something happening, and the more you do to increase the number of events, the more “coincidences” come through for you. I know all this sounds very “airy-fairy,” so here are some practical tips to help you along the way. Believe me, they work.

i. Consult newspapers and pennysaver-type advertising tabloids. It is

amazing how many farmers and other country folk have timbers — or

other valuable building materials — available. In urban areas, Bob advises:

“Read the want ads religiously. The Chicago papers are good for this, but other big-city papers will be, too.” Also, you can put a “wanted” ad in yourself. This is a tentacle!

2. Go to auctions. But don’t just limit yourself to what’s being offered. Talk to other people interested in the same stuff. They may know of something they don’t need, but which would suit you to a tee. You might lose something at an auction that goes past your price, but score a better deal from someone you meet there.

3. Talk it up. Let everyone you meet know that you are looking for old timbers (or cordwood, or straw bales, or windows and doors.) More tentacles.

4. Keep your eyes peeled while traveling country roads. Don’t be afraid to knock on doors. I do this all the time to procure large stones for megalithic work, and sometimes, when I stop to ask about stones, I discover something else that the people have available. Country people don’t usually take good stuff to the dump. They keep it, thinking that they will eventually use it themselves, but, after a couple of years go by, realize that they’ll never get around to the project they had in mind and would just as soon let the timbers — or cordwood, or bricks — go to someone who will make good use of the material. Often, someone will say, “I don’t have what you’re looking for, but old Fred down at the end of the road might be able to help you.”

Send out tentacles, and the world will connect with you. Local people would say to us, “I don’t see how you get all these good deals. I’ve been here for twenty years and I never hear of deals like you get.” Our secret? We extend ourselves. Go thee and do likewise.

Other Alternative Building Systes

Straw Bale

Although straw has been an important com­ponent of natural building for centuries, straw bale is a relatively new form of alternative con­struction that appears to be an innovation of the early settlers of the Nebraska plains, where unsuitable soils and a scarcity of wood made necessity the mother of invention. The high insulative value of straw bale (between R-33 and R-57, depending on the type of bale and the testing facility) and the aesthetics of the thick walls have quickly made it a popular al­ternative building material.

Because much of the straw grown in the United States is heavily sprayed with pesti­cides, we recommend looking for straw that

Other Alternative Building Systes

One of many 800 year old structures in Germany. Composed of timber frame and earthen and straw wall materials it stands as a testimonial to the beauty and longevity of natural building materials.

Photo: Robert Laporte.

has been organically grown. The Last Straw, listed in the bibliography at the end of this chapter, has published a list of organic straw sources.

Because cellulose is aperfect food for mold, bales of straw often contain mold. This means that it is very important with straw bale build­ing to incorporate rigorous water and mois­ture management strategies into the design. If the walls are allowed to breathe — that is, if

Подпись: Straw bale residence in Santa Fe, New Mexico. Metal roof, wide roof overhangs and rain gutter system protect the stucco finishes from the occasional high desert rains. Architect: Baker-Laporte and Associates; Builder: Prull and Associates; Photo: Julie Dean.
they are not covered with impermeable mem­branes that will trap any moisture in the wall — in theory the bales will always remain dry enough so that mold will not be a problem. Us­ing earth-based instead of cement-based plas­ters on interior walls will help keep water away from the bales and allow them to dry out more readily when they do get wet. On the exterior of the building, earth-based plasters that are augmented to prevent water penetration may prove more desirable from a moisture move­ment standpoint than cement-based plasters, which are less flexible, tend to crack more, and allow less vapor diffusion. Should water become trapped in the wall through roof fail­ure, plumbing leaks, poor drainage, or other building systems failures, mold can become a problem.

Many techniques have evolved for straw

bale construction. Building permit approval is greatly simplified when structures are non­load-bearing and most straw bale construc­tion relies on a variety of structural systems, including exposed and buried post and beam, steel posts, and poured or masonry concrete piers. Load-bearing straw bale examples have been built in Colorado, Arizona, and Canada. Several jurisdictions have adopted straw bale codes, including New Mexico and California; Pima County and Guadalupe, Arizona; Aus­tin, Texas; Boulder and Cortez, Colorado; and McCook, Nebraska. Nevada has a legislative mandate to ensure that local jurisdictions de­velop building codes allowing straw bale con­struction. While some jurisdictions permit load-bearing straw bale construction, others permit straw bale only as a non-load-bearing wall system.

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Section through pumicecrete wall.

Pumice-Crete

In this method, 14- to 24-inch-thick walls are created by mixing pumice, a very porous vol­canic rock, with a light, soupy concrete. The mixture is poured into formwork. The result­ing walls have both thermal mass and a high insulation value, and are ready to accept plas­ter without further preparation. When used with a concrete bond beam at the top, the walls are load bearing. In Europe, pumice and other naturally occurring lightweight volcanic aggregates have been used with mud in place of the concrete. However, these walls are not used in a load-bearing situation.

Because of the simplicity of this system and the absence of organic matter in the wall construction, pumice-crete is very suitable for persons with chemical sensitivity, who are often also highly sensitive to wood terpenes, mold, and pesticides that may be found in small quantities in other building materials. Since the wall uses cement, the rules for con­crete formwork and cement composition, out­lined in Division 3, must be followed.

Pumice can be radioactive. Samples should be tested with a Geiger counter to be sure they are free of radioactive material. (Refer to the section on radiation in Division 13 for testing
methods.) Because pumice is highly porous, it can readily absorb odors and it is prudent to specify that pumice be free of acquired odors when it arrives onsite and protected onsite and in place from pollution sources. Once the walls are plastered, this should no longer be of concern.

To help stabilize indoor humidity levels and create further thermal mass storage ca­pacity, clay-based plasters can be applied to interior surfaces and will adhere well without the use of lathing.

Finishing Basement Walls

Basement walls are usually masonry, rarely plumb, and often damp. If you want fin­ished basement walls, here’s a skeletal outline of the principal steps (see Chapter 14 for insulation tips).

1. Eliminate external sources of water such as clogged gutters, inadequate drainage, and improper grading. Repair foundation cracks that could admit water.

2. Trowel or roll a cementitious coating onto foundation walls to damp-proof them. Using construction adhesive, install rigid foam insulation panels to isolate cool foundation walls and prevent condensation. Cover the panels with a plastic water­proofing membrane.

3. Erect wood-frame or light-steel stud walls within—but not touching—

the foundation walls. Use pressure-treated sole plates on wood walls. Or, if space is tight, consider installing 15/s-in.-wide steel studs. (Covered with drywall, they’re sturdy and stable.)

4. image353Powder-actuated tools quickly attach sole plates to concrete floors, but such tools are dangerous because most powder loads are the equivalent of a.22 cartridge. Plus you’re shooting steel fasteners into concrete. Get instruction in using these tools safely, read the accompanying safety manuals, and wear appro­priate safety equipment— including eye and hearing protection.

As furring for basement walls, light-steel studs have advantages: They won’t rot, and 15/o-in.-wide studs don’t waste much space. Here, a powder-actuated tool attaches a metal sole plate to a concrete floor. Because of risks in mis­using such tools, follow the manufacturer’s operating instructions exactly.

When a partition runs parallel to the joists, try to position it over a joist so you’ll have something to nail the sole plate to. If you can’t reposition the wall, add blocking between the joists.

or unnecessarily. Moreover, local codes may require a professional.

Подпись: I Sistering JoistsПодпись:Подпись: To sister a new joist when one end will rest on a mudsill and the other will hang from a girder, angle cut the mudsill end and slide it into place. Then raise the other end till it's flush with the girder before attaching with a hanger.Подпись: SISTER JOIST SITS ATOP SILL AND GIRDER Подпись: To “sister" a new joist to one that sits atop a mudsill on one end and a girder on the other, bevel the leading top edge so it will “sledgehammer “ into place.It’s often difficult to tell whether an infestation is active or not. For example, if a subterranean termite infestation is inactive, a prophylactic treatment may suffice. But if the infestation is active, the remedy may require eliminating the conditions that lead to the infestation (such as excessive moisture and earth-wood contact) and an aggressive chemical treatment. Treatment usually consists of applying a chemical barrier on the ground that repels the termites or a "treated zone” whose chemical doesn’t repel them initially but later kills or severely disrupts them.

Termites, the most famous of insect pests, include drywood, subterranean, and Formosan types. Because subterranean termites need access to the moisture of the soil, they build distinctive dirt tubes up along the surface of foundations. When they eat into the wood, they usually pro­ceed with the grain. Termites swarm in spring or fall. Discourage the return of subterranean ter­mites by lowering soil levels around foundations, footings, and the like.

Drywood termites hollow out chambers sepa­rated by thin tunnels and often travel cross-grain; they eject fecal pellets through kick-out holes, forming a pyramid-shaped pile under the holes. Fumigation is effective for drywood termites, but it’s ineffective for treating subterranean termites because their colonies are located in the ground and fumigation gas does not penetrate the soil.

Formosan termites, whose colonies may exceed 1 million individuals, are wreaking havoc along the Gulf Coast of the United States; they live in the ground or in buildings and build huge, hard nests.

Carpenter ants are red or black, ‘/ in. to h in. long. Sometimes confused with termites, these ants have narrow waists and, when winged, wings of different sizes. While they do tunnel in wet or rotting wood, they do not eat it as food and are therefore less destructive than termites. To locate their nests, look for borings rather like coarse sawdust. Professionals will often drill into nests and spray them with an insecticide safe enough for inside use; dusting with boric acid is another common treatment.

Powder-post beetle holes look like tiny BB-gun holes; their borings resemble coarse flour. Because these insects favor the sapwood, evidence of borings may be only superficial until you prod with a pocketknife. Still, holes are not a sure sign of an active infestation. One approach is to remove the damaged wood, sweep up borings, paint the area, and monitor it for a year. If holes reappear, it’s an active

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This wall sheathing shows evidence of fungi and insect damage. After failed window flashing allowed water behind a stucco exterior, wood-destroying fungi grew quickly. Then subterranean termites tunneled, consuming the moist, fungus-damaged wood. Cross-grain checking just above center is a typical sign of fungus damage. A beetle larva showed up too.