CHOOSING MATERIALS

Choosing materials for a venting system is not usually much problem. Most jobs use Schedule-40 plastic pipe for vent pipes. There are, however, other options for vent materials. And, not all codes allow the same types of vent ma­terials. You will also notice from the following tables of approved materials that there can be a difference in approved materials for vents that are installed underground, compared to those installed above ground. We will close out this chapter with tables that indicate what types of materials are allowed within major plumbing codes.

Cast iron

ABS*

PVC*

Copper

Brass

Lead

 

Cast iron

ABS

PVC

Copper

Galvanized

Lead

Aluminum Borosilicate Glass Brass

 

*These materials may not be used with buildings having more than three floors above grade.

 

FIGURE 5.49 ■ Materials approved for above-ground vents in Zone Two. (Courtesy of McGraw-Hill)

FIGURE 5.51 ■ Materials approved for underground vents in Zone One. (Courtesy of McGraw-Hill)

Подпись: Cast iron ABS PVC Copper Galvanized Lead Aluminum Brass

Подпись: Cast iron ABS PVC Copper Aluminum Borosilicate glass

FIGURE 5.50 ■ Materials approved for above-ground vents in Zone Three. (Courtesy of McGraw-Hill)

FIGURE 5.52 ■ Materials approved for underground vents in Zone Two. (Courtesy of McGraw-Hill)

Cast iron ABS PVC Copper

 

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Mass Transport in Surface Runoff

Where precipitation falls mainly as storm events, the majority of mass transport in surface runoff is connected with the start of the storm water runoff. This so-called first flush will mobilise pollutants having accumulated on the pavement surface since the previous storm event (Barbosa & Hvitved-Jacobsen, 1999). Concentra­tions and masses decrease with time, and the relationship between the mass and the contamination pulse depends on many factors (Sansalone & Cristina, 2004). The amount of pollutant in the storm runoff depends on several conditions be­fore the rain. The consideration of the first-flush phenomenon, inclusive of con­taminant fluxes, in stormwater treatment is of much concern among practitioners (Hager, 2001).

The transport of pollutants accumulated during dry weather can be described using the theory of sediment transport with water combined with semi-empirical equations. The wash-off rate of pollutants is directly proportional to the amount of material remaining on the surface. During a storm event, the mass of pol­lution present on the pavement is decreasing exponentially with time (Hall & Hamilton, 1991). The relation can be described as:

M(t) = M0e-JRpwt (6.13)

where M(t) = pollutant mass on the pavement surface (M/L2) at time t (T); M0 = pollutant mass on the pavement surface at the beginning of the storm hydrograph (M/L2); J = rate coefficient (L2/M); R = runoff (L/T) and pw = density of water (M/L3).

At the beginning of the storm runoff event, various particles from dry deposition are remobilised. As a consequence of the interaction between water and dry sed­iment during the storm, the concentrations in the diluted phase are also changing with time.

Part of the runoff water is mobilised by the traffic to form splash and aerosols which will be wind-transported away from the road. The vast majority of the pol­lutants so mobilised will be deposited close to the road but the smaller particles will be wind transported further away from the road, at least some hundred me­tres (Blomqvist & Johansson, 1999; Folkeson, 2005). To what extent pollutants are transported in the form of splash/spray or in the form of pavement-surface runoff is governed by factors such as traffic characteristics, weather conditions, topography and the type and condition of the pavement surface. For instance, aerial transport is more limited where porous asphalt is used as compared to conventional asphalt (Legret & Colandini, 1999; Legret et al., 1999; Pagotto et al., 2000).

Timber from Small Sawmills

The wood descriptions above are general in nature. A particular species can exhibit varying characteristics depending on where it grows. A local sawyers advice is as valuable as the list above, particularly one who has many years of experience in the area.

Local sawyers charge for their lumber by the board foot. Logically, you would think that you’d get a break on price for an eight-by-eight over, say, four two-by­eights or eight one-by-eights of the same length. After all, the board footage is the same in all cases, and the sawyer has far fewer cuts to make with an eight-by-eight. You should get a price break, right? Well, I’ve never seen that happen. You pay by the board foot, end of story. The only exception is that if you give your sawyer your complete timber schedule and ask him (or her, though I have yet to meet a female sawyer) to give you a cost for the whole job, the generic “he” will take things like this into consideration, especially if there are other mills in the area.

If possible, leave your timber schedule with at least three local sawmills for pricing. But also ask about how long it will take to finish the order and whether or not they can arrange for delivery. Most sawyers are too busy to deliver on their
own, but they often know someone with a truck who can deliver the timbers to you. You can also use your own pickup truck if you are not too far from the sawmill. Several loads will be required, and fresh-cut timbers are well, heavy. Length of timber is limited to around ten feet for pick-up transport, unless the truck is equipped with an overhead wood rack. I hauled all the timbers for our new addition at Earthwood (Chapter 5) in our Nissan pick-up, but it took a few loads, at 18 miles round trip.

Подпись: Fig. 3.2: A sawyer in West Chazyt New York, tows this portable Wood Mizer bandsaw mill to private woodlots to make lumber.image34All sawyers think — or say — that they are accurate, and most are, but take a tape measure with you and quietly check out a few timbers that are already lying around. I work with two local sawyers. “Sawyer 1” has a bandsaw and “Sawyer 2” has a traditional large circular saw. Each one makes very regular dimensional timbers — I have never had a complaint about this — but Sawyer 1 sometimes lets some shoddy pieces go through: excessive wain, heart rot, large knots on the edge of the timber creating a weakness. The other guy doesn’t let this type of thing pass.

I usually end up going with Sawyer 2, even though he is a little more expensive, because of timber quality and the fact that he is reliable in having the job ready when he says it will be. Also, he will give me special attention for some of the personal quirky projects that we have going at Earthwood. Once, I needed a couple of six-by-eight posts resawn on an angle along their length. I showed up with the timbers, and he stopped production to accommodate me, and did a good job. Another time, he pulled five very cylindrical logs out of his pile for use as rollers at one of our megalithic stone workshops. This kind of service is beyond price.

Using Rigid Foam for an Efficient and Dry House

■ BY MARTIN HOLLADAY

R

emodelers who open up fiberglass – insulated walls in the middle of the winter are often surprised to see a thin layer of frost on the interior side of the wall sheathing. The frost indicates that warm, humid interior air is leaking through the wall penetrations, leading to condensation on the cold surface of the sheathing.

One way to limit this phenomenon is to keep the sheathing warm by adding a layer of rigid-foam insulation on the exterior side of the sheathing. If there are no cold sur­faces in the wall cavities, condensation is unlikely. A layer of exterior foam also makes a house more energy efficient by increasing insulating performance, reducing thermal bridging, and minimizing air leakage.

All three types of rigid-foam insulation— expanded polystyrene (EPS), extruded poly­styrene (XPS), and polyisocyanurate—are suitable for use on the exterior of walls and
roofs, though they do not perform equally. EPS is the most vapor permeable of the three types; at R-4, it also has the lowest R-value per inch. Foil-faced polyiso is the least va­por permeable and has the highest R-value per inch, at R-6.5. XPS (R-5 per in.) and the denser types of EPS can extend below grade, but polyiso absorbs water and therefore should not be installed in contact with soil.

Every wall needs a water-resistive barrier such as asphalt felt or housewrap. It’s also possible to use rigid foam as a barrier, as long as foam seams are sealed with a suitable tape or installed with Z-flashing. Regardless of your choice of barrier, all penetrations, including windows and doors, need to be flashed properly; these flashings need to be integrated with the barrier using adequate overlaps or durable tapes.

Подпись: Roof underlayment Asphalt shingles Peel-and-stick roof membrane V2-in. roof sheathingПодпись: Two layers of iV2-in. rigid-foam insulation Cavity insulation between rafters 5/fe-in. roof sheathing Expanding spray foamПодпись: Note: If you are using asphalt shingles, make sure the manufacturer will honor the warranty if shingles are installed on unvented roofs.Подпись:Подпись:Подпись:Подпись:Подпись:Using Rigid Foam for an Efficient and Dry HouseThe benefits of adding a layer of rigid-foam insula­tion to the exterior of walls and roofs are twofold. First, the foam will increase ther­mal performance by adding R-value and minimizing thermal bridging. Second, the foam will keep the sheathing warm, so mois­ture passing through the wall or roof will find no cold surfaces for condensation to occur. For this reason, the roof does not need to be vented. That’s why exte­rior roof foam makes a lot of sense on difficult-to-vent hipped roofs or on roofs with multiple dormers.

Preparing Samples with a Granulated Stabilizer

An unexpectedly high draindown may be obtained during laboratory tests in which components, including a granulated stabilizer, are mixed with a small mixer (or manually). This may be caused by the way the granulated stabilizer was prepared before mixing it with aggregates. As we know from Chapter 4, the granules contain a small amount of binder or wax. This coating makes them less sensitive to moisture and makes dosing easier. However, the coating also requires enough shear force and a high enough temperature to release the fibers during mixing.

To avoid trouble with dispersing the granulated fibers, the container with a weighed-out amount of granulated stabilizer should be put in the oven before mixing and warmed up to a temperature at which the binder or wax in the stabilizer clearly softens. This will make distributing the fibers through the mix easier. In an unheated granulated stabilizer, some granules may remain intact; therefore the stabilizer will not work effectively. The effect will be self-evident—an incorrect (high) result of draindown testing.

Be careful when testing stabilizers with which you are unfamiliar. Learn about appropriate mixing temperatures and mixing details, such as whether the stabilizers should be added to the dry aggregate or to the mixture with binder.

Preparing Samples with the Use of a Gyratory Compactor

The use of a gyratory compactor is another popular method worldwide for preparing laboratory samples. This piece of equipment is not new; this method of compacting samples was developed in the late 1930s and early 1940s.[48] Making samples with the use of the gyratory compactor is described in EN 12697-31, ASTM D4013-09, and ASTM D3387-83(2003).

This method of compacting samples consists of kneading a mix with a rotational force. The crucial features of the gyratory compactor are

• Angle of rotation

• Vertical pressure

• Number of gyratory rotations

• Initial (Ninitial)

• Design (Ndesign)

• Maximum (Nmax)

The air void content after an initial number of rotations (usually 9 or 10) are a mea­surement of the compactability of a mix.

There are several types of such instruments, of a dozen or so makes, with more than 3000 examples of them in laboratories. The following are distinct types of these devices:

• Superpave Gyratory Compactor (SGC) is used in the United States for designing mixes using the Superpave method (AASHTO T312 standard) and for designing SMA. Settings according to AASHTO T312 are as follows:

• Internal angle of rotation: 1.16° ± 0.02°

• Vertical pressure: 600 ± 18 kPa

• Rotational speed: 30 ± 0.5 rev/min

• Diameter of sample: 150 mm

• Gyratory Testing Machine (GTM) is the press that was designed and built by the U. S. Army Corps of Engineers.

• Presse de Compactage a cissaillement Giratoire (PCG) is the press that was designed and built by the LCPC[49] in France; its parameters have been adapted to the guidelines of various methods, inter alia Superpave method.

In both the Marshall and gyratory methods of compaction, the important point is fixing suitable design parameters precisely. In the recent past, the number of rota­tions of a gyratory compactor have been established as a parameter corresponding with the number of strokes of the Marshall hammer (to determine density and air void content of a given mix). According to the results of research presented in Brown and Cooley (1999), the number of rotations (Ndesign= 70 or 100) used for an SMA design with an SGC are equivalent of the Marshall hammer compac – tive effort 2 x 50. The number of rotations chosen depends on the resistance to crushing (Los Angeles [LA] index) of the coarse aggregate used; 70 revolutions of an SGC should be assumed when the LA index amounts to 30-45% and 100 revolutions for the LA index less than 30%. In other documents, like NAPA SMA Guidelines QIS 122, the Ndesign = 75 and 100 rotations are used for SMA design with an SGC. The current AASHTO R46 standard corresponds with the NAPA publication (75 and 100 gyrations according to the LA index), values that are used in the United States.

The Australian guidelines NAS AAPA 2004 use a different compactive effort. During SMA design for low – to medium-traffic loading and for heavy – to very heavy-traffic loading, the preferred values are 80 and 120 rotations of the compactor, respectively.

8.1.1 Visual Assessment of Laboratory Samples

A clause in one of the Polish documents on SMA design (ZW-SMA-2001) reads as follows:

After preparing Marshall samples, an additional assessment can be done…. A visual assessment of samples should be carried out: coarse aggregates should be noticeable on the surface of the sample, while voids between them should only be partially filled with mastic…

That sounds simple and clear, so let us have a look at a few examples of samples. Figure 8.1 shows an image of a proper SMA sample. There is no excess of mastic, coarse aggregates are visible, and the voids between them are “only partially filled with mastic.” This is how a properly designed and compacted SMA specimen should look.

Figure 8.2 depicts a remarkably different image of SMA samples, though maybe some readers can hardly believe it is still SMA. It really looks like mastic asphalt. There are few, if any, coarse aggregates standing out; voids only partially filled (with mastic) are not easy to find either. Generally, that SMA design could be immediately disqualified, but before rejecting the recipe of Figure 8.2, it is definitely worth giv­ing more thought to the practical reasons of that unsuitable appearance. Mastic is squeezed out, which means there was too much of it in comparison with the free space in the aggregate mix or maybe there were too few air voids in the aggregate mix. Consequently a mistake at the stage of mastic design was made (in which case the mix should be designed once again) or SMA samples were improperly com­pacted (with too great a compaction effort). Maybe the aggregate was too weak and was subsequently crushed during compaction in the mold.

Visual assessment plays only a small role, because human senses may be deceived. After all, we can imagine an SMA sample with a low binder content but compacted with a mighty effort. At that time the sample may look fine—we are under the illu­sion that the mastic-binder content is sufficient. But in the field, a comparable com – pactive effort cannot be applied. As a result, the layer will turn out to be open and

(a) (b)

image78

FIGURE 8.1 The appearance of a Marshall sample of an SMA mix after compaction and removal from the mold: (a) frontal plane and (b) lateral plane. (Photos courtesy of Alicja Glowacka.)

image79

FIGURE 8.2 The appearance of Marshall samples of an SMA mix after compaction and removal from the molds: (a) and (b) are frontal plane views of SMA samples with an excess of mastic. (Photos courtesy by Krzysztof Blazejowski.)

porous. So, despite the good appearance of the lab sample, the mix will not perform successfully in the field. As they say, sometimes looks can be deceiving. On the other hand, the method of visual assessment is sometimes useful, as long as the selected parameters of sample preparation are correct.

Seam Tape and Fasteners Are Vital to the System

Seam Tape and Fasteners Are Vital to the SystemSeam Tape and Fasteners Are Vital to the SystemIt never ceases to amaze me how many builders omit seam tape from housewrap installations. Although proper lapping is enough to create a watershed, all seams must be sealed to stop air infil­tration. Taping the seams also helps to preserve the housewrap’s integrity throughout construction and makes the membrane less likely to catch the wind and tear.

Seam Tape and Fasteners Are Vital to the SystemПодпись:Подпись:Seam Tape and Fasteners Are Vital to the SystemSeam tape also provides a means to repair cuts, but every cut or penetration should always be treated like a horizontal or vertical seam. Seam tape is never used to make up for improper lapping. In fact, assume that the tape adhesive will fail eventually, allowing water to penetrate the drain­age plane and wet the framing. In contrast, a proper lap can last forever.

Almost every housewrap manufacturer provides a seam tape for their product. Generic building tapes such as duct tape should be avoided because they might fail sooner.

Housewrap can be attached with plastic cap nails (see the photo, near right), l-in.-wide crown staples, or large-head roofing nails. Many builders use a hammer tacker to fasten the wrap with staples, but this type of fastener is much more likely to pull through the housewrap before the siding is installed.

For a better installation, manufacturers recom­mend the use of plastic cap nails or cap screws, which are available for manual fastening or collated for use in pneu­matic nailers (see the photo, far right). Cap nails also act as a gasket to keep water from leaking through the nail holes.

Whatever fastener is used, the manufacturer’s recommenda­tions for spacing are important. The most common spacing is 8 in. to 18 in. vertically, and 16 in. to 24 in. horizontally. Fasteners should be driven into studs or sheathing such as plywood or OSB.

Housewrap installation starts from the bottom and works its way up. All horizontal joints should overlap at least 6 in., and all vertical joints 12 in. If housewrap is applied to the sheathing before the wall is raised, there needs to be enough material left to cover the band joist. Horizontal laps are as important as vertical laps because wind­blown rain can travel sideways.

Housewrap should always be installed with the same care and attention devoted to siding. Although no one will see good work underneath the siding, correctly installed housewrap still pays off in the long run.

Fernando Pag6s Ruiz operates Brighton Construction Co. in Lincoln, Neb. He is also the author of Building an Affordable House: Trade Secrets for High-Value, Low-Cost Construction (The Taunton Press, 2005).

Подпись: IS>

Wood and Plastics

Use of Sustainably Harvested Wood

The history of lumber harvest in the United States is long and complicated. On one hand, the relentless removal of the aboriginal forests built great cities and industries and made way for the agricultural abundance necessary for building a nation. On the other hand, the de­struction of the aboriginal forests in all regions of the country was for the most part wanton, complete, and without regard for ecological, biological, and human costs.

As a nation we have moved beyond the idea of limitless resources. Wood can be used in an ecologically conscious manner through sustainable harvesting and replanting, along with a commitment to building methods that produce structures with greater longev­ity than the growth periods of the trees from which they are built. A sustainably harvested forest is one in which the forestry practices are continuously monitored and improved to ensure the present and future quality of both the wood resource and the forest itself. This approach includes consideration of the eco­nomic and social impacts on the communities involved and the protection of regional bio­logical diversity.

Sustainably harvested wood can often be obtained for the same price as lumber har­vested by environmentally damaging methods such as clear-cutting. By specifying the use of sustainably harvested woods for a building project, you are helping to raise awareness and increase market demand. Specifying sustain­ably harvested wood can be done by describ­ing the standards the wood must meet in order to be classified as sustainable, or more simply by listing local suppliers of wood that has been reputably certified. In residential construc­tion, where the builder may not have a sizable research and purchasing department, the sec­ond method is more effective.

The Forest Stewardship Council (FSC) is a leading international organization that sets standards for sustainability and accred­its third-party, independent certifiers. In the

US there are currently nine organizations that are FSC accredited. These include the Smart- Wood Certification Program and Scientific Certifications Systems (SCS). The Certified Forest Products Council has now become Metafore. It is a nonprofit organization that provides information on sources for purchas­ing FSC certified wood, with state-by-state listings and more than 4,500 certified loca­tions on its website. It also provides sample specification language tailored for use in the Construction Specifications Institute (CSI) Master Format.

Home Depot, the worlds largest buyer of forestry products, adopted the FSC principles in 2001 and Lowes, the worlds second largest buyer, soon followed suit. Both now offer FSC products in a relatively wide range.

REALIGNING AND REINFORCING CARRIAGES

If the outside stair carriage has bowed outward, use a 2×4 jammed against a near wall to push the carriage back into place. You can instead use an adjustable screw column horizontally to push the carriage back, but nail the column’s top plates so it can’t fall.

Where a carriage has separated from its stringer, clamp the pieces together; then add two J4-in. lag bolts, staggering the pairs of bolts every 18 in. along the length of the boards. If a carriage has pulled free from a stud wall, reattach it with washered lag bolts. Where a carriage is attached to a masonry wall, drill through the carriage into the masonry, using a carbide-tipped masonry bit. Slip a lead sleeve into the hole and expand the sleeve by tightening a washered 3/8-in. lag bolt into it. To forestall rot, slip a piece of 30-lb. building paper behind the carriage before bolting it down.

Occasionally, stringers or carriages come loose at the top and bottom. In a well-built stair­case, the upper ends of carriages are nailed to the inside of the header above; the lower ends of those carriages sit on, and are nailed to, the dou­bled joists of the rough opening below.

However, sometimes the lower ends of center carriages are mistakenly nailed to the inside of a RO header; in time the nails pull free and the car­riages slip down. Jack up the fallen carriages, using a plumbed, adjustable column securely footed on the floor or atop a 4×8 beam on edge. To create a flat jacking surface for the top of the column, screw a triangular piece (with the same slope as the stairs) to the underside of the car­riage. Should old nails resist your effort, cut through them with a metal-cutting blade in a reciprocating saw. Goggles, please.

Jack up the center carriage and join its lower end to the header with steel connectors or f4-in. right-angle mending plates. Secure the plates to the header with 18-in. lag bolts and through the bottom of the carriage with й-in.-diameter car­riage bolts. It’s not usually necessary to use mending plates on the upper end of the carriage because the lower end is bearing most of the weight.

Inadequate support for the middle of a stair­case can lead to split treads or major failures. Where a center carriage is not sawtoothed to receive treads, add plywood supports beneath each step. Cut support blocks from scrap ply­wood h in. thick. Then glue and screw them to alternate sides of the carriage—one per tread. If the stair sags in the middle and has no center carriage, add one.

You can replace finish surfaces after the car­riages are bolstered and reattached and the stairs and balusters are reinstalled. Be sure that the nailing plane on the underside of the carriages is flat, shimming as needed. To reattach plaster lath or drywall, use type W drywall screws (hammering drywall nails can crack surrounding materials).

MOISTURE, VAPOR & AIR BARRIERS

Notes

Coordinating these components is critical to avoid trapping water vapor in the wall cavity. The principle to follow is that the permeability (the degree to which water vapor will pass through a material) must be higher for materials on the cool side of the wall (usually the outside) than for materials on the warm side of the wall (usually the inside). For example, foil-faced rigid insu­lation, which has a very low permeability, should not be placed on the exterior in a cool climate. The chart below rates the permeability of common materials.

r

MATERiAL

PERMEABiLiTY (perms per STM-E96)

Foil-faced insulation

0

4-mil PVC

0.08

Extruded polystyrene

0.3-1.0

V2-in. CDX plywood

0.4-1.2

1/2-in. OSB

0.7

Kraft paper

1.8

15-lb. felt

5.6

V2-in. gypsum board

20

Building or house wraps

88-107

A moisture barrier under the siding is a sensible second line of defense to prevent water from reaching the frame of the building. Many products such as 15-lb. felt and bitumen-impregnated paper (which come in З-ft.-wide rolls, as shown here) have been used histori­cally and are suitable for this purpose.

A moisture barrier acting also as an air infiltration barrier under the siding must retard the passage of air and be impermeable to water, but allow vapor to pass. Polyolefin membranes, commonly called building or house wraps, meet these specifications and are the most prevalent barriers. They are veiy lightweight and come in rolls up to 12 ft. wide, allowing a single­story building to be covered in one pass. Building wraps can provide better protec­tion against air infiltration than felt and kraft paper because the wide rolls require fewer joints, and these joints are taped.

MOISTURE & AIR INFILTRATION BARRIERS

Installation

MOISTURE, VAPOR & AIR BARRIERSMOISTURE, VAPOR & AIR BARRIERSMOISTURE, VAPOR & AIR BARRIERSПодпись:Подпись: 3.) REPEAT STEP 2, BuT FOR TOP OF ROUGH OPENING. LEAVE OUTER EDGES UNSTAPLED FOR FUTURE INTEGRATION WITH WALL MOISTURE BARRIER.

2.) staple moisture

BARRIER To JAMBs of

rough opening & fold 6 IN. over sheathing & 6 IN. above & below rough opening.

note

it is extremely important to wrap rough openings with a moisture barrier to protect the framing because this is where leaks are most likely to occur. the method shown here is adequate for limited exposure situations because ALL layers overlap to direct water away from the structural FRAME of THE BuiLDING. simpler methods may be employed where exposure to rain is not likely to occur, and more EXTREME methods (БЕЕ 89B) should BE employed WHERE exposure is severe. for the method shown here, many builders prefer to use thin moisture barriers THAT WILL not build uP WITH THE folds & WITH several layers.

MOISTURE, VAPOR & AIR BARRIERS