Growing pressures on land availability and housing affordability are resulting in an increase in demand for attached homes. Zero-lot-line configurations are becoming more popular for detached homes because of more innovative use of small lots. The principal added code consideration for attached and zero-lot-line homes is the requirement for fire barriers.
Requirements of the major model codes are not always clear and are often subject to local interpretation and/or amendment. It is important to understand that all major model codes have an "Alternate Materials and Systems" section and that local code officials have the discretion to approve alternate construction. Appropriate documentation is, of course, usually necessary.
To be acceptable, firewall constructions must be rated by a recognized testing laboratory in accordance with ASTM El 19, Standard Methods of Fire Tests of Building Constructions and Materials. Many different one – and two-hour wall constructions have been approved and are listed in literature available from the Gypsum Association, 1603 Orrington Avenue, Evanston, IL 60201; the National Concrete Masonry Association, P. O. Box 781, Herndon, VA 22070; and other industry associations and product manufacturers.
For zero-lot-line homes, each unit must have an independent one-hour fire-resistive rating. The Standard Code (Southern) Uniform Building Code (ICBO), and the One and Two Family Dwelling Code (CABO), all require one-hour ratings for homes built less than 3 feet from the property line. The Basic/National Code (BOCA) requires a one-hour rating on exterior walls less than 6 feet from the property line. None of the codes permit unprotected openings through a firewall. Normal electrical, plumbing, and ductwork are generally allowed.
The most common one-hour firewall is of wood frame construction with 5/8- inch type X gypsum wallboard or gypsum sheathing attached to each side with 6d coated drywall nails 7 inches on center. Joists are required to be staggered at least 24 inches on center on each side.
For attached homes, a two-hour firewall is required, either as two separate one-hour walls or as a common two-hour wall at the property line. Check your local Code. The two-hour common wall typically built is a single wood frame wall with two layers of 5/8-inch type X gypsum wallboard on each side or concrete block. Two-hour walls typically have restrictions on electrical wiring, plumbing, and ductwork within the wall.
In addition to the firewall, some provision is required to block the spread of fire to the roof of an adjoining unit. For zero-lot-line detached homes, codes are somewhat vague because there is no adjoining roof.
In addition to confusing major model code firewall and roof treatments, some local codes require that firewalls be built of masonry construction.
This requirement is prohibitive for factory-built construction.
As mentioned, three of the four model codes require a firewall if within 3 feet of the property line. The other code, BOCA, requires a firewall if within 6 feet of the line. If a home is built 37 inches from the property line (73 inches under BOCA), no firewall is needed.
If an easement for use of that narrow strip of land is assigned permanently to the house next door, a zero-lot – line effect is obtained without cost of a firewall or roof parapet. It will be worthwhile to check local interpretation of firewall/roof treatment requirements prior to construction.
Since the major model codes are difficult to interpret and have not seriously addressed detached zero-lot – line homes in many cases, a complete review and rewrite of all codes should be undertaken.
Three JVAH sites, (Lacey, WA; Everett, WA; and Santa Fe, NM), all built under UBC, ran into the problem of firewall and roof treatment requirements.
In Santa Fe, the normal city requirement is a masonry firewall between attached garages, including a parapet above the wall. The builder obtained the Fire Resistance Design Manual from the Gypsum Association which shows wood frame firewalls.
In addition, he pointed to the 1,000 square foot per floor exception for roof fire treatment in UBC. These convinced the city that a common two-hour wood-framed firewall with no parapet or roof treatment was adequate.
In Lacey, the city required either a parapet extending 30 inches above the roof or that all framing elements (trusses, wall plates, studs, etc.) within 5 feet of the two-hour separation wall be of one-hour fire resistance construction.
The builder, John Phillips, pointed out that none of the other major model codes had this requirement and that fire-resistive sheathing, installed at least 4 feet from the wall, provides adequate fire safety according to building code experts. The city accepted his documentation which resulted in substantial cost savings.
In Everett, zero-lot-line homes were built with one-hour fire walls. The city accepted the builder’s documentation that type X fire-rated gypsum board under roof sheathing, within 4 feet of firewall was adequate to comply with the intent of the code.
The standard roof truss has become the most common and most cost – effective method of roof framing. Light-weight trusses are the most highly engineered component in new home construction and form the basis of a very efficient roof system. They are easy to install and adapt to many basic designs. Therefore, if cost is the primary consideration, standard roof trusses are recommended.
The "in-line" framing concept discussed in the House and Lot Design section of this manual works very well with roof trusses. That is, the 24- inch on-center roof trusses align with the 24-inch on-center wall studs which in turn align with the 24-inch on- center floor joists. The key to this consistent alignment is to start all layout from the same corner.
Simplification of roof overhang and trim details, consistent with design and function, provides opportumties for cost reduction. For example, the ■ rake overhang is essentially nonfunctional on a gable end roof. A simple fascia board at the siding/roof junction serves to cover the rough edge of the siding and conceal inaccuracies of fit. Several of the nation’s largest builders use this detail on all their production homes.
Roof overhangs are desirable for most designs and provide rain protection for the front and rear of the house. They also can provide summer shading for some windows. When an overhang is used, an inexpensive "open" soffit will eliminate much of the cost of the traditional cornice. All trim details on the underside of the overhang may be
eliminated, leaving the truss or rafter tails exposed. Blocking between trusses or rafters and a 1×6 fascia board are the only finish items needed. If soffit venting is needed, screening between trusses or rafters can be used instead of blocking.
Three-eights-inchplywood roof sheathing with metal plyclips is an acceptable alternative to 1/2-inch plywood.
Posted by admin on 16/ 11/ 15
Shoring temporarily supports loads carried by bearing walls while you modify them—say, to add a window or a door opening. Typically, shoring is installed after removing finish surfaces and rerouting pipes and wires but before cutting into a bearing wall. If you’re not sure if the wall is bearing or whether it can be safely modified, have a structural engineer inspect the house and review your remodeling plans. This is hard-hat work.
For first – and second-floor walls, two types of shoring are common: screw jacks used with top and bottom plates, and temporary stud walls built from 2x4s. In either case, position shoring back 2 ft. to 3 ft. from the wall you’re working on so you’ll have room to move tools and materials.
► If you’re using screw jacks, doubled 2×6 top plates will distribute loads better. Here’s how to laminate the top plates in place: Use two or three
16d common nails to nail the upper 2×6 directly to the ceiling joists; then face-nail the second 2×6 to it. Ideally, the top plates should extend one joist beyond the new opening on both sides. Don’t overnail, you’re just holding up the plates till you get jacks underneath. Plumb down to mark the location of the single 2×6 sole plate. Place jacks every 4 ft., and plumb them. Tack-nail the top of each jack so it can’t fall over. Then raise one jack in tiny increments before moving to the next. Raise ceiling joists no more than Vs in.—just enough to take pressure off the bearing wall.
► Building a temporarily stud wall is similar: Tack-nail the top plates; then plumb down to mark the bottom plate. (To keep the bottom plate in place, tack-nail it to the joists underneath.) Cut studs in. longer than the distance between the plates because, here, the studs do the lifting. Toenail the studs to the top plate on 16-in. or 24-in. centers. Then use a sledge to rap the bottom of each stud till the stud is plumb. Recheck each stud for plumb as you progress, and monitor them periodically.
Once shoring supports the loads above, remove the studs from the bearing wall as needed to enlarge openings, add headers, and the like. If the bearing wall transfers loads from upper stories down into girders or foundation walls, study the lengthy section on jacking and shoring in Chapter 10.
Structural Remodeling
Once shoring is in place, you should be safe in removing bearing walls. Check with a structural engineer if you have any doubts. Again, wear safety gear (hard hat, eye protection, work boots with thick soles, and so on) and test the electrical outlets to be sure the power is off. If you need to do any jacking, read Chapter 10.
Posted by admin on 16/ 11/ 15
Step 11-Install Sheathing
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Posted by admin on 16/ 11/ 15
It’s common in many regions to build houses directly on a concrete slab. When this is the case, wall building can begin once the sill plates are down. Other builders use a system of posts and girders to support joists so that a floor can be nailed to them. Still others use manufactured joists (called I-joists) that span a basement from sill plate to sill plate without any interior support, leaving a room large enough for a dance hall. [7] length of the building. Houses frequently have an exterior stemwall foundation with girders supported by piers set on concrete footings (see the drawing above).
Post length
Posts in a basement will be quite long, while posts in a crawl space will be shorter—only about 1 ft. to 2 ft. But to keep wood dry and away from termites, make sure that no wood is within 6 in. of the ground. To determine the exact length of each post, pull a chalkline directly over the tops of the concrete piers that will support them, from foundation wall to foundation wall (see the top drawing on p. 91). Then place a scrap piece of girder stock (like a 4×6) on a pier. The distance between the string and the top of the girder stock is the length of the post for that pier. Make a list and note the length of every post before beginning to cut them.
Posts are usually cut from 4×4 stock. In some areas, they may need to be pressure treated. They can be cut to length with a circular saw or with a chopsaw. Leave the string in place to help align the posts as you nail them to the top of the piers. Toenail three 16d nails (two on one side, one on the opposite side)—or four 8d nails—down through the post into the wooden block on top of the pier (for more on toenailing, see the sidebar below).
Girders
Once the posts are nailed in place, it’s time to cut and nail on girders. Again, use straight stock that isn’t twisted. Pier posts are often 6 ft. apart, so cut the girders to break in the middle of a post, which will ensure solid bearing for all girders. Secure the girders to the posts with three 16d or four 8d nails. Take some simple steps to strengthen the girder frame structurally, especially if you live in earthquake country: If the posts are over 3 ft. long, nail a 1x brace diagonally (45°) from the bottom of the post to the girder with five 8d nails in each end (see the bottom drawing on the facing page). Unite the joints with a metal strap or a plywood gusset. I prefer the gusset because it ties girder to girder and girders to the post.
INSTALLING JOISTS
Joists are placed on edge across the sill plates to provide support and a nailing surface for the subfloor and a platform for the walls (see the drawing on p. 92). The joists need to be strong enough to support your grand piano without having it wind up in the basement.
Joist systems are made from either standard 2x lumber or from manufactured joists. The weight these members can
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