Failure point)

In cases for which several stochastic basic variables are involved in a perfor­mance function, the number of possible combinations of such variables satis­fying W (x) = 0 is infinite. From the design viewpoint, one is more concerned with the combination of stochastic basic variables that would yield the lowest reliability or highest failure probability. The point on the failure surface asso­ciated with the lowest reliability is the one having the shortest distance to the point where the means of the stochastic basic variables are located. This point is called the design point (Hasofer and Lind, 1974) or the most probable failure point (Shinozuka, 1983).

Consider that X = (X1,X2,…,XK)t are K uncorrelated stochastic basic variables having a vector mean px and covariance matrix Dx. The original stochastic basic variables X can be standardized into X’ according to Eq. (4.30). The standardization procedure maps the failure surface in the original x-space onto the corresponding failure surface in x’-space, as shown in Fig. 4.6. Hence the design point in x ‘-space is the one that has the shortest distance from the

Xk

Failure point)

(a)

 

x’

Failure point)

Figure 4.6 Performance function in the original and standardized spaces: (a) original space; (b) standardized space.

 

Подпись: Minimize subject to Failure point) Подпись: ^ x'l k=1 Подпись: (4.31a) (4.31b)

failure surface W'(x 0 = 0 to the origin x’ = 0. Such a point can be found by solving

This constrained nonlinear minimization problem can be converted into an unconstrained minimization problem using the Lagrangian function:

Подпись: (4.32)Minimize L(x’, %) = (x’tx 7)1/2 + f W'(x’)

Failure point) Failure point) Failure point) Подпись: x7 -^ + f*Vx W'(x *) = 0 |x *| W 7(x *) = 0 Подпись: (4.33a) (4.33b)

in which f is the Lagrangian multiplier, which is unrestricted in sign. The solution to Eq. (4.32) can be obtained by solving the following two equations simultaneously, that is,

Подпись: (4.34)in which Vx = (д/д x1, d/dx2,…, d/dxK )t is a gradient operator. FromEq. (4.33a), the design point x * can be expressed as

x * = f * |x *|Vx7 W ‘(x *)

Furthermore, from Eq. (4.34), the distance between the origin x’ = 0 and the design point x * can be obtained as

|x *| = If* ||x *|[VX 7 W ‘(x * )Vx W'(x *)]1/2 = If* ||x *||Vx7 W ‘(x *)| (4.35)

from which the value of the optimal Lagrangian multiplier x* can be determined as

f* = sign[W 7(0)]|Vx W 7( x* )|-1 (4.36)

Substituting Eq. (4.36) into Eq. (4.34) determines the location of the design point as

V W'(x 7)

x* = – sign[W'(O)]|x*| rox * = – sign[W'(0)]|x*|a* (4.37)

|Vx7 W (x *)

Подпись: |x 'J = -sign[W '(0)]atx ( = -sign[W '(0)]- Failure point) Подпись: (4.38)

in which a* = Vx W 7(x *)/|Vx – W 7(x **)| is a unit vector emanating from the design point x’* and pointing toward the safe region. Referring to Fig. 4.6, where the mean point fux is located in the safe region, hence W'(0) > 0 [or W(px) > 0], and the corresponding – sign[W'(0)]a* is a unit vector emanating from the origin x7 = 0 and pointing to the design point x*. The elements of a* are called the directional derivatives representing the value of the cosine angle between the gradient vector Vx W'(x **) and axes of the standardized variables. Geometri­cally, Eq. (4.37) shows that the vector, x** is perpendicular to the tangent hyper­plane passing through the design point. The shortest distance can be expressed as

Подпись: (4.39a)Recall that Xk = fik + akX’k, for k = 1, 2,, K. By the chain rule in calculus,

d W'(Xr) d w (X) dXk d w (X)

d Xk ~ d Xk Щ ~ d Xk ak

or in matrix form as

Vx W'(X’) = D^VxW (X) (4.39b)

Подпись: |x * Failure point) Подпись: (4.40)

Then Eq. (4.38) can be written, in terms of the original stochastic basic variables X, as

in which x* = (x1+, x2*,…, xK* )* is the point in the original variable x-space that can be easily determined from the design point x * in x’-space as x* = fix + D У2x *. It will be shown in the next subsection that the shortest distance from the origin to the design point |x *|, in fact, is the absolute value of the reliabil­ity index based on the first-order Taylor series expansion of the performance function W (X) with the expansion point at x*.

Example 4.8 (Linear performance function) Consider that the failure surface is a hyperplane given by

K

W (X) = a + £) akXk

k=1

or in vector form as W(X) = Oq + a* X = 0, with a’s being the coefficients and X being the random variables. Assume that X are uncorrelated random variables with the mean vector fix and covariance matrix Dx. It can be shown that the MFOSM reliability index computed by Eq. (4.29) with /iw = a0 + a* fix and aW = a* Dxa is the AFOSM reliability index.

To show that the original random variables X are first standardized by Eq. (4.30), therefore, in terms of the standardized random variables X’, the preceding linear failure surface can be expressed as

W'(X’) = b0 + b* X’ = 0

in which bo = Oq + a*fix and b* = a*DУ2. In Fig. 4.7, let the lower half space con­taining the origin of x ‘-space be designated as the safe region. This would require

bj = Oq + a*fix > 0.

Referring to Fig. 4.7, the gradient of W'(X’) is b, which is a vector perpendicular to the failure hyperplane defined by W'(X’) = 0 pointing in the direction of the safe set. Therefore, the vector —a = —bjlb*b is a unit vector emanating from x’ = 0 toward the failure region, as shown in Fig. 4.7. For any vector x’ landing on the

xk

Failure point)

failure hyperplane defined by W'(x’) = 0, the following relationship holds:

—2bl x’ 60

/ЪЪ = TPb

Note that the left-hand side is the length of the vector x’ projected on the unit vec­tor —Ы4¥Ъ, which is the shortest distance from x’ = 0 to the failure hyperplane. Therefore, b0/Vb1 b is the reliability index, that is,

e = 60 = ap + a

ЪЪ л/a Dx a aw

As shown, when the performance function is linear involving uncorrelated stochastic basic variables, the reliability index is the ratio of the expected value of the perfor­mance function to its standard deviation. Furthermore, the MFOSM method would yield the same results as the AFOSM method.

4.1.2 First-order approximation of performance function at the design point

Referring to Eqs. (4.20) and (4.21), the first-order approximation of the perfor­mance function W (X), taking the expansion point xo = x*, is

K

W(X) sk*(Xk — xk*) = s*(X — x*) (4.41)

k=i

in which s* = (sn, s2*,, sK*), a vector of sensitivity coefficients of the per­formance function W (X) evaluated at the expansion point x* that lies on the
limit-state surface, that is,

Подпись:Подпись: Sk* =for k = 1,2,…, K

X=x*

note that W(x*) is not on the right-hand-side of Eq. (4.41) because W(x*) = 0. Hence, at the expansion point x*, the expected value and the variance of the performance function W(X) can be approximated according to Eqs. (4.24) and (4.25) as

f^w ^ s *(Mx x*) (4.42)

al « s CXs* (4.43)

in which fj, x and Cx are the mean vector and covariance matrix of the stochastic basic variables, respectively. If the stochastic basic variables are uncorrelated, Eq. (4.43) reduces to

K

Подпись: (4.44)2 _ c.2 „2

aw = Sk*ak

k = 1

in which ak is the standard deviation of the kth stochastic basic variable Xk.

Since a* = s*/|s*|, when stochastic basic variables are uncorrelated, the standard deviation of the performance function W (X) alternatively can be ex­pressed in terms of the directional derivatives as

K

aw = ^2 ak*Sk*ak (4.45)

k=1

where ak* is the directional derivative for the kth stochastic basic variable at the expansion point x*

Sk ak

Failure point)

 

for k = 1, 2,…, K

 

(4.46a)

 

or, in matrix form,

Подпись: (4.46b)D 1/2Vx W (x*)

| D 1/2Vx W (x*)|

which is identical to the one defined in Eq. (4.37) according to Eq. (4.39). With the mean and standard deviation of the performance function W (X) computed

at x*, the AFOSM reliability index ^afosm given in Eq. (4.34) can be determined as

вafosm = ^ = ^k=1KSk*(lXk – Xk*} (4.47)

Z_jk = 1 ak*sk*Gk

The reliability index eAFOSM also is called the Hasofer-Lind reliability index.

Once the value of eAFOSM is computed, the reliability can be estimated by Eq. (4. 10) as Ps = $^afosm). Since eAFOSM = sign[W40)]|x*|, the sensitiv­ity of eAFOSM with respect to the uncorrelated, standardized stochastic basic variables is

x’

Vx’ eAFOSM = sign[W/(0)]Vx’|x(| = sign[W 40)]—^ = – a* (4.48)

|x *

Note that Vx в is a vector showing the direction along which the rate change in the value of the reliability index в increases most rapidly. This direction is indicated by – a* regardless whether the position of the mean of the stochastic basic variables fxx is in the safe region W40) > 0 or failure zone W40) < 0. As shown in Fig. 4.8, the vector – a* points to the failure region, and moving along – a* would result in a more negative-valued W'(x0. This is, geometri­cally, equivalent to pushing the limit-state surface W'(x’) = 0 further away from x’ = 0 in Fig. 4.8a and closer to x’ = 0 in Fig. 4.8b. Hence, moving along the direction of – a* at the design point x* would make the value of the relia­bility index в more positive under W40) > 0, whereas the value of в would be less negative under W40) < 0.

In both cases, the value of the reliability index increases along – a*. Alge­braically, as one moves along – a*, the current value of the limit-state surface W'(x’) changes from 0 to a negative value, that is, W'(x’) = – c, for c > 0. This implies a new limit state for the system defined by W'(x’) = R(x’) – L(x’) + c = 0. The introduction of a positive-valued c in the performance function could mean an increase in resistance, that is, W'(x’) = [R(x0 + c] – L(x’) = 0, or a decrease in load, that is, W'(x’) = R(x’) – [L(x’) – c] = 0. In either case, the reliability index and the corresponding reliability for the system would increase along the direction of – a*.

Подпись: ak* Подпись: ^AFOSM 4 ~щ~) Подпись: ЭвAFOSM d Xk Подпись: Gk Подпись: for k = 1, 2,..., K (4.49a)

Equation (4.48) indicates that moving along the direction of a* at the design point x*, the values of the reliability index would decrease and that – ak* is the rate of change in вАго:зМ owing to a one standard deviation change in stochastic basic variable Xk at X = x*. Therefore, the relationship between Vx в and Vxв can be expressed as

or, in matrix form, as

Failure point)

It also can be shown easily that the sensitivity of reliability or failure probability with respect to each stochastic basic variable along the direction of a* can be computed as

Failure point)

Failure point)

ak*ф (eAFOSM)

ak* Ф (^afosm)

®k

 

(4.50a)

 

or in matrix form as

Подпись:Vx; Ps = —Ф (eAFOSM)a*

Vx, Ps = Ф (^afosm)Vx, ^afosm = —Ф (^afosm) D x1/2 a*

These sensitivity coefficients would reveal the relative importance of each stochastic basic variable for their effects on reliability or failure probability.

Thermal and Moisture Control

Foundation Water Management

Dampproofing is used to form a water – resistant barrier on the outside of stem walls where they come into contact with the earth. This treatment is especially important wher­ever there is a crawl space or basement be­low grade. Along with proper grading and perimeter drainage, dampproofing is used as protection against the migration of moisture through the wall. Water migration can result in a damp environment under or inside the home, which can lead to structural deterio­ration of the building. This is a frequent and serious cause of mold infestation throughout the country.

Dampproofing of stem walls is only one component of the creation of an effective water barrier. Proper drainage backfilling and final grading are also essential in order to drain unwanted water away from the wall and relieve hydrostatic pressure that, if pres­ent, will drive water through any imperfection in the dampproof barrier and the stem wall.

Conscientious and thorough workmanship are of the utmost importance. The following sample specifications describe the proper in­stallation of perimeter drainage.

Installation of Perimeter Drainage [10] [11]


Подпись: The Problem: Saturated crawl spaces created perfect conditions for mold growth. Recom-mendation: Crawl spaces should be dry. Perimeter drainage and detailing should keep water out of the crawl space and a barrier placed over the soil can prevent soil moisture from creating moldy conditions. Photo: Restoration Consultants.

A free-draining backfill of %-inch mini­mum crushed stone or gravel that is free of smaller particles shall be used to line and fill the excavation for all below-grade walls.

• An engineered drainage system may be substituted for a free-draining backfill. These systems frequently incorporate perimeter insulation with the drainage. The engineered drainage system must be installed in strict compliance with manu­facturers’ specifications.

• A french drain shall be installed so that all perforated pipes are located below the level of the bottom surface of the footing. French drain perforated pipes shall be in­stalled with the holes down to allow water to rise into the pipe. If holes are present in more than one side of the pipe, at least one set of holes shall face downward.

French drains shall be sloped down-

ward a minimum Ы inch per foot of run and be connected to daylight. If a french drain cannot be connected to daylight, it may have to be connected to an under­ground engineered collection pool, a sump pump, or a storm sewer system. The architect or engineer should then provide drawings that explain the exact require­ments. This situation is not ideal because sump pumps can fail and storm sewers can back up. If these problems are not quickly corrected, water damage may re­sult. If the storm sewer is connected to the sanitary sewer •— a situation that is usu­ally not permitted in new construction — any backup may also result in sewage on the exterior side of underground walls.

• The perforated pipe shall be surrounded and set in a minimum 2-inch depth bed consisting of a minimum 34-inch size of crushed stone free of smaller particles.

Thermal and Moisture Control

• The perforated pipe and crushed stone shall be surrounded by a filter membrane to prevent adjacent soil from washing into and clogging the french drain system.

Step 2-Sheathe Gable Ends

When sheathing gable-end truss, check plans to see if a vent opening is shown.

• Toenail through bottom of truss into plate so gable end is on chalk line IV2" in from outer edge of double plate. (See below.)

Step 3-Set Gable Ends

Toenail 16d nails 24" O. C. to hold

gable end while setting gable-end truss.

IV2" chalk line

Truss

Wall

Steps

1. String line from center of gable ends.

2. Lift single truss into place.

3. Center truss on string line.

4. Nail truss to exterior wall on layout.

5. Nail through temporary spacer support near ridge of truss and on layout marked on temporary spacer support.

6. Set six trusses. Then check gable end for plumb and put permanent brace on gable end. Permanent brace should connect top of gable end to an interior wall or a cross support running between the trusses.

7. Every eight trusses, add an additional brace. Refer to truss specifications for additional braces.

6. Lookouts

Lookouts support the roof overhang and fascia.

The skin for the roof, sheathing, is a structural part of the roof diaphragm.

Chanter Six

RELINING A CHIMNEY

Подпись: As two unseen helpers on the other side of this double-sided fireplace steady the Franklin stove, the mason tips it upright. She placed heavy sheet metal over the hearth and slid the stove on its back into the fireplace.

image398
Подпись: A simple 2x2 and plywood frame creates a 11/2-in. overhang and a 2-in.-thick edge for this site-built concrete crown. To make frame disassembly easy, use drywall screws to fasten it.

While inspecting a chimney, you may find that it has no flue-tile lining or that existing tiles are cracked or broken and too inaccessible to replace. Because superheated gases can escape

through gaps, such a chimney is unsafe to use. In this case, your options are:

► Seal up the chimney so it can’t be used and add a new, properly lined chimney else­where. Or tear that chimney out and replace it.

► Install a poured masonry liner. In this procedure, a heavy-gauge tubular rubber balloon is inflated inside the chimney, and the void is then filled with a cementitious slurry. After the mixture hardens, the tube is deflated and removed. Poured masonry creates a smooth, easily cleaned lining and can stiffen an old chimney whose strength is suspect. Poured masonry systems are usually proprie­tary, however, and must be installed by some­one trained in that system. Finally, this method is expensive.

► Which brings us to stainless-steel pipe, a sensible choice if you want a solution that’s readily available, quickly installed, effective, and about one-third the price of a poured masonry liner. Interchangeable rigid and flexible pipe systems enable installations even in chimneys that aren’t straight.

Installing a stainless-steel liner. Steel flue lin­ers and woodstoves are often installed in tandem, correcting flue problems and smoky fireplaces at the same time.

Start by surveying the chimney’s condition, including its dimensions. After steel flue pipe is installed, there should be at minimum 1 in. clear­ance around it. Thus a 6-in. pipe needs a flue at least 7 in. by 7 in. Note jogs in the chimney that might require elbows or flexible sections. Also note obstructions, such as damper bars, that must be removed before you insert the pipe.

If you’re installing a woodstove, too, measure the firebox carefully to be sure the stove will fit and that there’s room for the clearances required by local code and mentioned in the stove manu­facturer’s instructions. You’ll also need room to insert the stove, with or without legs attached, and raise it up into its final position. Stoves are heavy—300 lb., on average—so give yourself room to work. Fireboxes often need to be modi­fied to make room for a fireplace insert or stove. Install the stove or fireplace insert before installing the flue liner.

Assemble the flue pipe on the ground, joining pipe sections with four stainless-steel sheet-metal screws per joint, so the sections stay together as you lower them down the chimney. Although pop rivets could theoretically join such pipe, they’d likely fail under the stress and the corrosive chemicals present in wood smoke.

Подпись: INSTALLING AN INSULATED FLUE PIPEПодпись: To keep internal temperatures constant and prevent condensation, insulate stainless- steel flue liners with heat-resistant mineral wool batts and metal tape. N/ote;The flexible flue section that attaches to the woodstove outlet does not need to be insulated. Подпись: Don't try this on a windy day. The entire length of flue liner is preassembled and screwed together on the ground, carried aloft, and then lowered into the chimney. . . Подпись: . . .while the flexible lower section (above) and an adjustable elbow will enable you thread the pipe through a slightly offset chimney and still connect to the woodstove outlet. Подпись: To increase directional draw and prevent rain blow-in, the big monsoon cap (right) is clamped to the top of the metal flue liner. A steel top plate sealed to the top of the terra-cotta tile centers the steel flue liner in the opening and stabilizes it.image402Next insulate the flue pipe, as necessary, with heat-resistant mineral batts and metal joint tape.

Heat ratings vary. Temperatures inside flue pipes intermittently reach 2,000°F. Thus flue pipes are insulated to keep temperatures constant inside and prevent condensation, which also prevents accretion of creosote and creosote’s corrosive effects. Generally, the first pipe section coming off the woodstove is not insulated because tem­peratures are so high that there’s little danger of condensation. Toward the top of the pipe, stop the insulation just before the pipe clears the chimney—you don’t want to expose the insula­tion to the elements.

Carry the flue-pipe assembly onto the roof and lower it down the chimney. This is a two – person job, especially if it’s windy. Once the lower end of the flue pipe nears the woodstove, one team member can go below to fit the lower end over the woodstove’s outlet.

NINE Fixes FOR SMOKING FIREPLACES

► Open a window. New houses are often so tightly insulated that there’s not enough fresh air entering to replace the smoke going up the chimney. So smoke exits only sluggishly if at all. Alternatively, you can install an air-intake vent near the hearth.

► Use dry wood. Burning wet or green wood creates a steamy, smoky fire whose low heat output doesn’t create enough of an updraft and promotes creosote buildup.

► Clean chimneys at least once a year, so their flue diameters aren’t choked down with creosote. Cleaning also removes obstructions, such as nests.

► Have a properly sized flue. Flues that are too large won’t send volatiles upward

at a fast enough rate and often allow smoke to drift into living spaces. Although flue pipes are sized to match woodstove flue outlets (6 in. or 8 in.), sizing fireplace flues is trickier. In general, a fireplace flue’s cross section should be one-eighth to one-tenth the area of a fireplace opening.

► Reduce air turbulence inside the smoke chamber, above the metal damper by giving the corbeled bricks on the front face a smooth parge coat. To do this, brush, vacuum, and wet the corbeled bricks before applying a smoothening heat-resistant mortar such as Ahrens® Chamber-Tech 2000. (You’ll need to remove the damper for access.)

► Replace the chimney rain cap. Clogged or poorly designed metal or masonry caps can create air turbulence and prevent a good updraft.

► Increase the height of the chimney. A chimney should be a minimum of 3 ft. above the part of the roof it passes through and a minimum of 2 ft. above any other part

of the roof within 10 ft.

► Rebuild the firebox with Rumford proportions. Count Rumford was a contemporary of Ben Franklin and almost as clever; however, he bet on the British and left the colonies in a hurry. But not before he invented a tall, shallow firebox that doesn’t smoke and radiates considerably more heat into the living space than low, deep fireboxes. Search the Internet for companies that sell prefab Rumford-style fireplace components—or build your own.

Подпись: Although installation details vary, a metal top plate centers the pipe within the chimney and is caulked to the chimney top with a high- temperature silicone sealant. The juncture between the pipe and the top plate is then covered with a storm collar, which typically employs a band clamp to draw it tight. That's caulked, as well. Finally, cap the top of the flue pipe. The monsoon cap shown on p. 195 maintains a fairly uniform updraft even when winds shift suddenly. REBUILDING A FIREBOX If you can see broken firebricks or missing mortar inside your fireplace, it's time to rebuild the firebox. You'll need to decide which bricks to leave and which to replace. But you'll almost certainly need to replace the back wall, which suffers the highest temperatures as well as the most physical abuse—from logs thrown against it. This job requires a respirator mask, eye protection, and—at least during demolition—a hard hat. A head sock is also a good idea because you'll be sitting in the dusty firebox during most of the repairs. Finally, you'll need a droplight that can withstand abuse. Measure. Measure the firebox before you start tearing out old bricks. Note its height, width, depth, and angle at which sidewalls meet the back of the firebox. And if the back wall also tilts forward, take several readings with a spirit level Подпись: Traditional Fireplace Cross Section Подпись: Parge corbeled Подпись: FlueПодпись: Hinged damper Smoke shelf (mortar) Подпись: Rubble brick and fillПодпись: Back wall of chimneyimage403Install a Franklin woodstove. Charming as they are, fireplaces are an inefficient way to heat a house. Install an efficient, glass-doored stove and you can watch the flames without getting burned by wasted energy costs.

Подпись: This is a partially dismantled fireplace firebox. To the left, the firebrick sidewall is solid enough to be left in place, though its mortar joints need repointing. The back-wall firebricks have already been removed, revealing the back of the chimney. (An intervening wall of rubble bricks was also removed.)image404

RELINING A CHIMNEY

to determine how much off-plumb it is. Finally, note the height and dimensions of the chimney throat, the narrowed opening at the top of the firebox, usually covered by a metal damper. Knowing the location and dimensions of the throat is particularly helpful—it tells you the final height of the back wall of the firebox.

Tear out. Starting with the back wall of the firebox, use a flat bar to gently dislodge loose firebricks—most will fall out—and place them in an empty joint-compound bucket for removal. Rebuild with only new firebricks. Remove the damper, and if it’s warped, replace it. As you remove firebricks from the back wall, you may find an intermediate wall of rubble brick between the firebox and the outer wall of the chimney. And, as likely, the rubble bricks will also be loose, their mortar turned to sand. You can save, clean, and reuse these bricks when you rebuild the rubble wall.

Next remove loose or damaged firebricks from the sidewalls and floor of the firebox. But, again, if the bricks are intact, it’s a judgment call. If repointing the joints is all that’s needed, leave the bricks in place. Firebricks on the floor, which have been protected by insulating layers of ash, often need only repointing. Once you’ve removed loose bricks, sweep and vacuum the area well. (Rent a shop vacuum.) Using a spray bottle, spritz all surfaces with clean water till they’re damp.

Bricks and mortar. Firebricks (refractory bricks) are made of fire clay and can withstand tempera­tures up to 2,000°F. They’re bigger and softer than conventional facing bricks and less likely to expand and contract and hence are less likely to crack from heat. Yet, because they are soft, they can be damaged by logs thrown against

them. Firebrick walls need tight joints of he in. to ‘/ in. thick and thus require exact fits. To achieve this, rent a lever-operated brick cutter.

For firebricks, two kinds of mortar are used. Until recently, most masons just threw a few handfuls of fire clay into a conventional portland cement-based mortar, such as Quikrete® Mason Mix. (Fire clay helps resist burnout and smoothes easier.) However, adding too much fire clay makes a mix so sticky it’s difficult to scrape off your trowel. The second mortar, refractory mortar, comes premixed in cans or pails and is roughly the consistency of joint compound. With names such as Heat Stop® and Alsey Air-Set Refractory

Fireplace Mortar, these mortars can withstand high temperatures without degrading. Heat toler­ance aside, the biggest difference between the two mortar types is drying time: Refractory mortars set very quickly—in 15 seconds or 20 seconds—so there’s little time to re-adjust bricks once in place. If you’re new to bricklaying, a conventional mix will be more forgiving.

Tests of Filler Stiffening Properties Filler stiffening properties may be tested with the following methods

• Methods of increasing of softening point—ring and ball (R&B) method, according to EN 13179-1 (delta ring and ball), and similar methods

• Rigden’s method, according to EN 1097-4, and Rigden-Anderson’s method

• The method of increasing mortar viscosity

The two European tests cited in EN 13043 (EN 13179-1 and EN 1097-4) are carried out for an added filler and the 0/0.125 mm fraction sieved out of the fine aggregate (or an aggregate of continuous grading with D less than or equal to 8 mm) that contains more than 10% dust. Let us dedicate some time to discussing those tests since under­standing them will help determine the expected values of a good filler.

8.3.3.1 Method of a Softening Point Difference

8.3.3.1.1 Method EN 13179-1 (Delta Ring and Ball)

What is delta ring and ball (AR&B)? According to EN 13179-1, it is an increase in the R&B softening point of a binder-filler mixture consisting of 37.5 parts of filler and 62.5 parts of binder by volume, related to the R&B softening point of the pure binder used for testing. The part of the filler passing through the 0.125 mm sieve and, according to EN 1259, road binder type 70/100 are used for testing. Measurements are taken according to EN 1427. The final result is denoted AR&B (or in simplified terms, delta).

European countries, which created their requirements for fillers according to the common EN 13043 standard, mostly require a class AR&B8/25, which signifies a stiff­ening power between 8°C and 25°C.

Interlocking Metal

Interlocking metal weatherstripping is an ef­ficient way to seal air leaks around doors. It comes with two different pieces; one attaches to the door, and the other to the jamb and the threshold. When closed, the two pieces interlock to form a seal. This type of weatherstripping is the most difficult to install, a job best left to pros. If your doors already have interlocking metal weather-

stripping, keep it working smoothly by straightening any bends or dents that pre­vent the two pieces from fitting together.

 

Interlocking Metal

 

Durability: excellent Cost: $1.50/ft. to $3/ft.

 

HINGE SIDE

Interlocking Metal

 

Interlocking Metal

On the hinge side of the door, a bronze strip nailed to the jamb slips into a groove cut in the door.

 

LATCH SIDE AND TOP

Saw kerf

 

Door

 

Jamb

 

Interlocking bronze strips

 

Aluminum with vinyl top and feet

 

Saw kerf

 

On the head and latch sides, bronze strips let into saw kerfs and nailed on both the door and the jamb interlock.

 

Adjustable – height oak and aluminum

 

Interlocking Metal

Hook

strip

Rabbet

 

Door

 

Vinyl top on

paintable

hardwood

 

Threshold

 

aluminum with vinyl top in bronze finish

 

At the door bottom, a bronze hook strip on the door engages the saddle screwed to the sill.

 

Durability: Excellent Cost: $3.85/ft. to $7/ft.

 

Interlocking MetalInterlocking MetalInterlocking MetalInterlocking MetalInterlocking MetalInterlocking Metal

however, should be outfitted with a thresh­old designed to shed water away from the house. If an existing wooden threshold shows signs of water damage, simply replac­ing it will only postpone a larger problem.

Door Sweeps

Installing a door sweep is the final step in sealing air leaks under a door. Sweeps come in various styles, one of which simply at­taches to the outside of a door. Metal, vinyl, or wood versions connected to either felt or foam all can be cut to length with a hack­saw, backsaw, or tin snips, and most simply screw to the bottom of a door. When trim­ming the sweep, cut it about V8 in. shy of the overall door width. Some versions are nailed instead of screwed into place. If pos­sible, opt for a version that screws into place through elongated holes because they allow for easy adjustment.

Other sweep styles actually wrap the bottom of the door and rely on a rubber or foam gasket along the door’s bottom edge to seal tight against the threshold. Again, look for a model with elongated screw holes that enable you to adjust the sweep. You might have to remove the door to mount the sweep.

Automatic door sweeps are a fairly recent invention, and they come in handy if the door opens over irregular stone or carpeted floors, where a regular sweep would drag or bind. With automatic door sweeps, a vinyl flap drops down to seal leaks when the door is shut, but retracts when the door is open. If it sounds like hoodoo, it’s not: A stop button attached to the jamb lifts and closes the flap.

Matthew Teague is a furniture maker and journalist in Nashville, Tenn.

Aluminum with drip cap

 

f

 

White and brushed chrome with adjustable screw holes

 

Cost: ЗЗФ/ft. to $3.30/ft.

 

Interlocking MetalInterlocking Metal

Подпись: Crf

Tapes

These inexpensive tapes come in several varieties: nonporous, closed-cell foam; open-cell foam silicone; and various rub­bers, including a product called EPDM (ethylene propylene diene monomer). It’s worth spending a few extra cents per foot to buy the more-efficient closed-cell foam or higher-quality silicones. Any of these styles can be purchased in various thicknesses and lengths.

Although installation is easy—little more than peel-and-stick—be sure to clean sur­faces using a mild detergent prior to setting the tape in place. In areas that see little use, such as inoperable windows, expect the tape to last roughly three years. On frequently opened windows, you’ll need to replace it in as little as a year. Securing the tape with tacks or staples helps to extend its longevity. As a general rule, apply this type of weath­erstripping only on parts of windows that are not opened, such as around the upper sash.

Durability: Poor Cost: Vinyl foam: about 20ФДк X-Treme Rubber: about ЗОФ/ft. Rubber foam: about ЗОФ/ft. EPDM rubber: about 80ФДк Silicone: about $1.15/ft.

Tapes

Tapes

Accurate Metal Weatherstrip Co. Inc.

www. accurateweatherstrip. com

Duck® Products

www. duckbrand. com

Frost King®

www. frostking. com

M-D® Building Products

www. mdteam. com

Pemko Manufacturing®

www. pemko. com

Randy Surley Manufacturing Company

www. randysurleymfg. com

 

Resource Conservation Technology Inc.

www. conservationtechnology. com

Tapes

 

Available at tool-rental outlets, this laminate trimmer has a 45-degree angled base that slides between the window jamb and stop to cut an angled groove for silicone-bead and other kerf-in weatherstripping.

 

OPTIONS FOR AN EXTERIOR DOOR

The swinging motion of a door allows you a greater choice of weatherstripping. In most cases, though, you must pay attention to how it should be applied. Some types of weatherstripping attach to the door jamb, and others to the doorstop.

 

TOP OF

DOOR

V-strips

(attach to jamb)

Felt

(against doorstop) Tapes

(attach to doorstop)

Rigid jamb

(attaches to jamb and abuts doorstop) Kerf-in (against doorstop)

HINGE SIDE OF DOOR V-strips

(attach to jamb)

Felt

(applied to jamb) Tapes

(applied to jamb) Kerf-in

(against doorstop)

 

LOCK SIDE OF DOOR V-strips (attach to jamb; notch to fit around latch plate)

Felt (against door­stop; place separate lengths on each side of latch plate)

Tapes (abut doorstop)

Rigid jamb

(attaches to inside face of doorstop)

Kerf-in (against doorstop)

BOTTOM OF DOOR

Vinyl, metal, or wood thresholds Door seals, sweeps, or shoes; attachment varies by style

 

TapesTapes

TapesCut the groove toward the corners. Plunge the kerfing tool into the seam between the window jamb and the stop that holds the sash, and move it slowly toward the top and bottom corners of the jamb. A vacuum hose sucks up stray sawdust. silicone-bead and other kerf – in weatherstripping is easy to install. Just cut the corners at a 45-degree angle, and press the flat fin into the kerf.

Подпись: Plastic polymer-coated foam TapesПодпись: silicone bead Tapes

Durability: silicone: excellent Plastic polymer and foam: good Cost: Plastic polymer: about 18$/ft. Foam: about 38$/ft.

Silicone: 35$/ft. to $1.10/ft.

Kerf-In

A kerf is a blade-width notch cut into a door or window jamb with a saw or router. New doors often come with kerf-in weatherstrip­ping in place. Although silicone might last up to 50 years, plastic and foam kerf-in weatherstripping might need replacement sooner. Simply pull out the old weatherstrip­ping and snap the new, self-locking product into place.

Although it’s possible to install kerf – in weatherstripping on old windows not originally designed for it, you need to rent a corner-grooving tool (see the photos above left and on p. 87) to create the kerf. If you’re tool savvy, these router-like machines are easy to use. Expect to pay about $70 per day for the rental.

About Chimney Fires

Chimney fires occur when imperfectly burned materials in wood smoke condense and stick to the inside of a chimney. The chief culprit in chimney fires is creosote, a sticky brown or black substance that may harden to resemble fragile glass. Incomplete combustion also produces tar, ammonia, methane, carbon monoxide, toluene, phenol, benzene, and eventually, turpentine, acetone, and methyl alcohol.

Подпись: This flue tile and mortar cap were cracked by a chimney fire in a flue overdue for cleaning.Подпись: and attack mortar joints. Above all, never use chimneys whose tiles or mortar joints are cracked or chimneys that have no flue lining. If you're considering buying a house, have its chimney professionally inspected if you see signs of a chimney fire such as creosote flakes on the roof or the ground, scorched or cracked flue liners or chimney crowns, warped dampers or charred studs or joists near a chimney. Many local codes require inspections before homeowners fire up new woodburners. If the chimney isn’t cleaned for a while, creosote accumulates until it’s heated enough to combust in a flash fire, often in excess of 2,000°F. For homeowners, a chimney fire is a terrifying experience, for it may literally roar for extended periods inside the entire flue, flames shooting skyward from the chimney top as though from an inverted rocket. If there are cracks in mortar or flue tiles—or no flue tiles at all—those superheated gases can "breach the chimney" and set fire to wood framing. At that point, the whole house can go up in smoke.

Fortunately, you can prevent chimney fires, simply by inspecting and cleaning the chimney regularly. In general, don’t burn green (unseasoned) or wet wood. Give a fire enough air to burn completely. Each time you start a fire, open the dampers and air controls until the fire is burning well. Don’t burn Christmas trees (whose unburned resins collect as sticky masses inside flues), wrapping paper, or glossy-coated papers because their emissions can corrode stovepipes

Подпись: SAFETY ALERT The most dangerous part of roof work is descending the roof and remounting the ladder. Minimize ladder trips by lowering buckets of mortar debris to a hard-hat-protected helper on the ground, who will later fill upward- bound buckets with concrete mortar, cleaned bricks, and so on. (Empty 5-gal. joint-compound buckets are perfect.) Never stand on tarps or drop cloths when working on a roof, because they're slippery and unsafe. The roofside worker should also wear safety harnesses. Подпись: Illlll

After you’ve brushed the flues well, allow the dust and debris to settle before removing the plas­tic covering the fireplace and other openings. Shovel up the soot and debris at the bottom of each flue and from the fireplace; then vacuum all areas thoroughly. Don’t forget the soot that may be resting in thimbles or on the fireplace smoke shelf.

REPLACING A CHIMNEY CROWN

A masonry crown is a beveled flue collar at the top of the chimney, sloping gently to direct water away from flue tiles. When crowns weather and crack, water can drain between flue tiles and brick, seep into mortar joints, and freeze, thereby cracking flue tiles, bricks, and mortar joints. In warmer seasons, this water can leak into living spaces, stain walls, and linger as acrid combus­tion smells. Replacing the crown is easy enough if the chimney is not too tall—and the roof not too high or too steeply sloped. Otherwise, you’ll need rooftop scaffolding—which a pro should install—before tearing down the chimney to sound masonry and rebuilding from there.

Note: In warmer regions, uncovered flues and crowns are common. However, for winters in cold climates, flues should be capped to prevent the entry of rain and sleet that can damage flues during freeze-thaw cycles.

In most cases, a few hammer blows will dis­lodge old mortar crowns. Put the debris into a bucket. Then sweep the top of the chimney clean. If some mortar joints need repointing, attend to that. If many mortar joints are soft and badly eroded, tear down the chimney to the roofline, clean the bricks, install new flashing, and rebuild it. If bricks are cracked or broken, replace them with new SW grade bricks. It’s okay to reuse old bricks if they’re solid, but if you must replace more than a handful, rebuild the chimney with new bricks. They’ll look more uniform and last longer.

Installing a new crown. Spread sheet plastic around the base of the chimney to catch falling mortar. There are essentially two types of crowns. If your region gets a lot of precipitation, pour an in-place concrete crown, which overhangs the chimney 1 in. to 112 in. and acts as a drip cap, keeping rain and sleet off bricks near the top. Otherwise, use a trowel to build a sloping mortar crown that runs flush to the chimney faces. A flush crown isn’t as durable as an overhanging crown but is much quicker to build.

To construct an overhanging crown, as shown on p. 194, measure the outside dimension of the chimney top and build a frame from 2x2s that slides snugly over the chimney top. Shim from

below to wedge the frame in place so its upper face is flush to the top of the chimney. This 2×2 frame (actual dimension, 12 in. x 1 f2 in.) creates a 1h-in. overhang. Next, cut strips of plywood 3h in. wide and as long as the sides of the frame; using a cordless screwdriver, screw these strips to the frame so that they stick up 2 in. above the top of the frame. The resultant plywood frame keeps the concrete in place and creates a 2-in.-thick edge.

Wet the bricks with a brush or a spray bottle, and you’re ready for the concrete. Use a cement – rich, fairly stiff concrete mix: 1 part portland cement, 2 parts sand, and 2 parts %-in. gravel is about right. To prevent cracks, mix in a handful (!4 cup) of fiberglass fibers, which concrete sup­pliers carry. As you place the concrete into the plywood frame, use a trowel to force it into the corners and to drive out air pockets.

Important: Whether you build a mortar crown or pour a concrete one, wrap the flue liners with polyethylene bond-breaker tape or closed-cell foam strips. This prevents the mortar and con­crete from bonding to the tile liners and thereby provides an expansion joint. Without this gap, heat-expanded flue tiles can crack a new crown in a single heating season.

If you’re building up a mortar crown, use a premixed mortar mix. For a slightly more flexi­ble, crack-resistant crown, substitute a liquid latex fortifier for part of the water.

Both types of crowns should be sloped away from the flue liners and troweled to a smooth fin­ish; and both will cure slower and stronger if you cover them with a damp burlap sack or plastic to protect them from rain and sun. Caulk the gap between the flue liners and the crown with a good urethane sealant.

Chimney caps should match the style of the house: chimneys on colonials and capes are often covered with slabs of bluestone bedded into corner tiers of mortared brick. Whereas, for newer homes or those with stainless-steel liners a stainless-steel or copper cap may be more appropriate. If there are multiple flue liners, you may need multiple caps or an over­all custom cap.

Chimneys

Masonry chimneys are freestanding units that carry exhaust gases out of the house. To prevent superheated gases from escaping, chimneys should be tile lined and free from cracks or gaps, or they should have insulated stainless-steel flues. Annual inspections and maintenance are crucial to chimney health: If you discover mortar or flue tiles that are cracked or missing, the chimney is unsafe. Chimney flashing and roof safety are fur­ther discussed in Chapter 5.

These days, new and retrofit chimneys are often nonmasonry. There are several reasons for this transition: building code and insurance require­ments; a shrinking pool of qualified masons; the inherent inflexibility and tendency of masonry to crack and compromise safety when structurally stressed; and, perhaps most important, a host of safe, cost-effective, and easily installed insulated metal chimneys now available. That noted, the review here is limited to masonry chimneys.

CLEANING A CHIMNEY

Chimneys and their flues should be inspected at least once a year and cleaned as needed—ideally, before the heating season. Better chimney-cleaning services will get up on the roof, inspect the chimney top, and in some cases lower a videocamera into the flue linings. That video is very helpful if the chimney needs relining because homeowners can see the damage for themselves and make an informed decision.

Because chimney cleaning takes serious elbow grease, working atop the roof is often the most effective way to brush clean a chimney. But working on a roof is inherently dangerous to you and your roof shingles, which can be easily abraded, torn, and dislodged, leading to leaks. Moreover, because many people put off cleaning a chimney till it’s almost heating season, they fre­quently go aloft when the weather is inclement or the roofs are slick after a rain. For all these rea­sons, you’re probably better off hiring an insured professional, certified for cleaning and inspecting.

However, if you are determined to clean the flues yourself, first turn off the furnace and other appliances (such as water heaters) that vent to the flues and disconnect their vent pipes. Using duct tape, tape plastic over the thimbles that open into living spaces, to prevent dislodged soot from entering. If you have a fireplace, open its damper to allow dislodged soot to fall into the fire pit. Then firmly tape sheet plastic around the fireplace opening. But before you start, suit up. Dislodged creosote and soot are highly carcino­genic, so wear a respirator mask with replaceable cartridges, tight-fitting goggles, gloves, and dis­posable coveralls.

To clean a chimney thoroughly, you’ll need special brushes, which scrub flue surfaces without damaging them. Today, many professional sweeps favor polypropylene brushes to clean sooty flues and stiff steel-wire brushes for flues with heavy use and creosote buildup. These brushes come in various sizes to match the most common flue cross sections. You can screw them onto a series of 3-ft. to 4-ft. rod sections or to a continuous flexible rod (on a reel) up to 50 ft. long.

FUNDAMENTALS OF OPEN-CHANNEL FLOW

The fundamental relationships for hydraulic flow are the same for channels that are physically open at the top, such as roadway channels and curbs and gutters, and for pipes and culverts that have a free water surface. In both cases, hydraulic design is based on open-channel flow. An understanding of these relationships is important for comprehending various design aids subsequently presented.

5.3.1 Types of Flow

Open-channel flow may be categorized by three characteristics: the flow may be (1) steady or unsteady, (2) uniform or nonuniform, and (3) either subcritical, critical, or supercritical. This discussion will begin with the first two categories, and the third will be discussed later.

Steady flow means that at a particular point, there is no change in depth with respect to time. By extension, this means that there is no change in the quantity of flow. Unsteady flow means that the depth does change with time.

Uniform flow assumes that there is no change in depth or quantity of water at any section along the length of the channel (or culvert) under investigation. This requires that there be no change in velocity of the flow, and it is possible only if the slope, roughness, and cross-section all remain constant along the length of the channel. This state is evidenced by the fact that the water surface is parallel to the channel bottom. Nonuniform flow assumes a change in depth or velocity along the length of the channel. This type of flow may be further classified as rapidly varying or gradually varying flow.

For most highway applications, the flow is steady and the changes in the section are so gradual that the flow may be considered uniform. The equations for open-channel flow are based on that assumption. Where the change in the cross-section of the channel is dramatic, nonuniform flow should be assumed. (For analysis of nonuniform flow, see E. F. Brater and H. W. King, Handbook of Hydraulics, McGraw-Hill, 1996.)

5.3.2 Continuity Equation

The continuity equation is based on the basic and fundamental concept that the quantity of flow passing any cross-section remains constant throughout the length of the stream flow:

Q = AV (5.10)

where Q = discharge, ft3/s (m3/s)

A = area, ft2 (m2)

V = velocity, ft/s (m/s)

5.3.3 Manning’s Equation

Manning’s equation assumes uniform, turbulent flow conditions and computes the mean flow velocity for an open channel:

V = ^ 1,486 ^R2/3S1/2 in U. S. Customary units (5.11a)

n2/3o1/2

V = for SI units (5.11b)

n

where V = mean velocity, ft/s (m/s)

n = Manning coefficient of roughness R = hydraulic radius = A/WP, ft (m)

A = cross-sectional flow area, ft2 (m2)

WP = wetted perimeter = total perimeter of cross-sectional area of flow minus free surface width, ft (m)

S = channel slope

Manning’s equation may be solved directly or obtained from the nomograph in Fig. 5.3. Typical Manning’s n values are given in Table 5.6. For shallow flows, the effective n values should generally be increased, because the wetted perimeter will have a greater effect on the flow.

The continuity equation and Manning’s equation may be used in conjunction to directly compute channel discharges. Substitute Eq. (5.11) into Eq. (5.10) and rearrange terms to obtain

AR2/3 = 14Q—1/2 in U. S. Customary units (5.12a)

AR2/3 = —— for SI units (5.12b)

R is a function of A. Thus, for a given slope, flow quantity, and n value, AR2/3 may be determined and the normal depth of flow calculated by trial and error.