UPGRADING ROADSIDE BARRIER SYSTEMS

Table 6.6 provides a checklist that can be used to review existing barrier installations and determine adequacy for either structural or functional (design or placement) causes. Factors to be considered in determining the scope and extent of upgrading include the nature and extent of the deficiency, past accident history, and the cost-effectiveness of the recommended improvement. Remember to always consider the cost-effectiveness of eliminating or relocating the shielded feature.

6.6 MEDIAN BARRIERS

Longitudinal median barriers are used to separate opposing traffic on divided high­ways, to separate local and through traffic, or to separate traffic in designated lanes. Median barriers designed to redirect vehicles striking from either side require some different considerations from those for roadside barriers. However, performance requirements are the same as given in NCHRP 350 for roadside barriers.

Median barriers should be installed only if the consequences of striking the barrier are less severe than those of striking the feature in question. Figure 6.25 provides sug­gested warrants for median barriers on high-speed fully controlled-access roadways with relatively flat, traversable medians. The median width and the traffic volume dictate the need. There has been a trend to use median barriers for somewhat wider median widths than in the past as a result of studies of cross-median crash history. Site-specific data should also be considered. Also, special consideration should be given to barrier needs for medians separating roadways at different elevations.

The information presented in Arts. 6.6, 6.7, and 6.8 on selection, placement, and upgrading of roadside barriers applies generally to median barriers as well. Some additional information on transitions and placement follows in Arts. 6.9.2 and 6.10. End treatments are discussed in Art. 6.12.

I. Structural adequacy*

A. Longitudinal section

1. Standard barrier designf

2. Adequate post spacing

3. Rail element blocked out on strong-post system

4. Adequate splices in rail element

B. Terminal

1. Standard terminal designf

2. Adequate anchorage strength

C. Transition section

1. Standard transition designf

2. Adequate anchorage strength

3. Adequate stiffening in advance of rigid system

4. Adequate blockout and/or rubrail

II. Functional adequacy^

A. Longitudinal section

1. Adequate length to shield area of concern

2. Proper height of rail§

3. Proper flare rate

4. Barrier-to-object distance exceeds barrier deflection distance

5. Placement behind curb consistent with vehicle trajectory data

6. Placement on flat slopes (1:10) or on slopes up to 1:6 consistent with vehicle trajectory data

7. Beam backup plates present on steel strong-post system

B. Terminal

1. Adequate clear recovery area behind yielding terminal

2. Adequate offset of terminal end

*Structural adequacy is inherent in the barrier itself, rather than resulting from design, placement, or maintenance.

fStandard systems or elements are those which are currently an approved agency standard or have been successfully crash tested. Certain barriers that fall outside these categories may be left in place depending on the characteristics of the barrier and the results of an engineering analysis of the site.

^Functional adequacy results from barrier design or placement and is essential for barrier effectiveness.

§Generally, a 3-in (75-mm) variation from the nominal height is acceptable.

Source: From Roadside Design Guide, AASHTO, Washington, D. C.,

2002 and 2006, with permission.

Seasonal Variation of Material Parameters

Calculated stiffness values, based on measured deflections under loading of a pave­ment surface, for a thin pavement structure are given in Fig. 8.6, along with the water content. One can see that the spring-thaw period started in early April as the water content at the three probes increased from 4%-7% to 12%-16% in a very short period of time. When the water content in the lower part of the granular base reached its maximum value (15.2%), the stiffness of that layer reached its minimum value. As the water content during the summer period gradually decreased to 11%, the stiffness increased to its maximum value. The same trend was mainly true for the subgrade as well. The water content of the subgrade though reached its lowest value much later than the granular base and the recovery went on during the whole summer. This is probably due to the subsoil having much higher fines content than the base and the sub-base and, therefore, it takes much longer time for the water to dissipate from the subgrade.

ra

CL

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3

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Increased use of dielectric sensors (see Chapter 3, Section 3.2.2) have permitted moisture assessments to be continued during cold-climate winters. By this means it has been observed that complete freezing of all pore moisture doesn’t necessarily occur in all the granular pavement layers, even though they are, nominally, within the frost-affected depth.

Macrotexture

In some countries, particularly where surface properties are high priorities for a wearing course, in addition to other parameters, requirements for macrotexture are also laid down. The British requirements (HA MCHW, 2008) for mixtures with an upper (D) aggregate size of 14 mm or less, stipulate a minimum 1.3-mm macrotex­ture depth[64] (measured using the volumetric patch method described in EN 13036-1) for high speed roads at the moment of opening the road to traffic. In some other countries the requirement for the macrotexture depth is a minimum of 1.0-1.2 mm, but this requirement usually does not apply to fine graded SMA 0/7 or 0/8 mm.

10.6.2 Nuclear Gauge Density Measurements

In many countries, nuclear gauges are used for field testing compacted asphalt layers. If well-calibrated with core samples, nuclear gauges are convenient tools for rapid testing of field density.

In a report by Brown and Cooley (1999), they pointed out that the application of lev­eling sand and dynamic correction factors improve the accuracy of the density tests.

British guidelines (BS 594987:2007) provide a protocol for calibrating and oper­ating indirect density gauges, including gauge operations, initial calibrations, and consistency of calibration.

Adding Outdoor Receptacles

© To add an outdoor receptacle, find the nearest wall cavity that contains a general-use or lighting circuit, turn off the power, discon­nect the receptacle, and fish wire to the new outdoor outlet. However, do not tap into kitchen or bathroom circuits or circuits dedicated to a single appliance. To position the outdoor box, use a utility knife to cut back drywall 2 in. on one side of the existing box; then push aside the insulation in the wall and drill a %-in. hole through the sheathing and the siding. Note any­thing in the wall that would obstruct a new box. If you can’t find a good spot, caulk the hole with urethane, and try another location.

Trace the back of the new outlet box onto a flat section of siding. Then use a reciprocating saw to cut out the siding and—depending on the type of weather-tight box you install— sheathing within that outline. All outdoor receptacles must be GFCIs, housed in "water­proof while in-use" covers. Feed cable into a clamp at the back of the box (12 in. of cable should stick out of the new box), tighten the cable clamp, mount the weatherproof box, and caulk around its perimeter with silicone or urethane caulk.

Wire an outdoor GFCI receptacle as you would an interior one. After screwing the wired receptacle to the new box, attach the gasket and the waterproof cover, splice the new cable to the existing one, and reconnect the indoor recepta­cle. Turn the power back on, and then test both receptacles to be sure they’re correctly wired.

Then use a drywall circle cutter to cut it out. (If you must use a utility knife, the fixture’s trim col­lar will cover up a less-than-perfect hole.)

Open the fixture’s junction box. Then strip and splice incoming cable wires to the wires inside the junction box, using the twist-on wire nuts provided. Connections are standard: black wires to black, white wires to white, ground wire to green screw. Close the junction box and feed it through the hole in the ceiling first. Then insert the fixture can into the opening and rotate it till its spring mounting clips engage the ceiling. Insert the fixture’s inner baffle, whose mounting springs fit into slots inside the can. Install a light – bulb and the unit’s trim collar. Then turn the power on to test.

Mounting heavier fixtures is easier if there’s an unfinished attic above. In this case, simply drill an exploratory hole through the ceiling to approximate the desired fixture location. Then go up in the attic and decide whether it’s easier to nail a ceiling box to the nearest joist or to run a bar-hanger box between the joists and mount a ceiling box to it. Bar-hanger boxes allow you to position fixtures exactly where you want them, because you can slide the box along the bar. That decided, from the attic, cut out an opening for the ceiling box, which is almost always round.

Use a drywall circle cutter for drywall, a cordless jigsaw for plaster.

There are dozens of types of ceiling boxes, from flat 4-in. pancake boxes that screw to the edges of joists to deeper nail-in boxes with brackets that nail to the sides of joists to bar-hanger boxes. At­tach the box, fish cable to the location, feed the cable through a knockout in the box, staple the cable to the side of a joist within 12 in. of the box, tighten the cable clamps; then strip the sheathing from the cable, and splice individual wires as described earlier. If the ceiling box is metal, it must be grounded with a ground wire screwed to the box. That done, you’re ready to attach the individual cable wires to the lead wires from the fixture and mount the fixture to the ceiling box.

Подпись: PRO"ГIP Test new outlets before patching walls or ceilings. If the outlet's not correctly wired, you can repair it without having to rip out a newly installed new patch to get access. 1111 Подпись: This is a low-voltage recessed lighting fixture, as seen from above. Adjustable hanger bars mount the fixture to the ceiling joists. Because this first-floor ceiling will not be insulated, it's acceptable to use a non-IC-rated fixture.image525Подпись: Fishing Cable to a Ceiling Fixture Подпись: Ceiling fixture Подпись:If the cavity above isn’t accessible, cut out a larger area of ceiling to expose the ceiling joists, so you can fish cable and mount the box. If the ceiling fixture’s location isn’t critical, use nail-in boxes with brackets, which have the smallest footprint to patch. If you use a hanger bar, cut a channel in the ceiling from joist center to joist center so you’ll have something to attach the patch ends to. If the ceiling is plaster, drill 18 in. holes to find the width of one piece of lath, usually 1 in. wide. You’ll reduce patching if you can remove just one lath strip. See Chapter 15 for more about patching plaster and drywall.

Length of Need

Length of Need

The total length of a longitudinal barrier needed to shield an area of concern is referred to as the length of need. Figure 6.23 illustrates the variables that must be con­sidered, particularly the runout length LR and the lateral extent of the area of concern LA. The runout length is the theoretical distance needed for a vehicle that has left the road to come to a stop, measured as shown. Suggested values are given in Table 6.5 in terms of the traffic volume and the design speed. The lateral extent of the area of con­cern is the distance from the edge of the traveled way to the far side of the fixed object, or the outside edge of the clear zone LC of an embankment or fixed object that extends past the clear zone. After major variables are established, the length of the barrier will then depend on the tangent length L1, the distance from the traveled way L2, and the flare rate a:b. If a semirigid railing is connected to a rigid barrier, the tan­gent length should be at least as long as the transition section to reduce pocketing and increase likelihood of redirection. After variables have been selected, the required

Подпись: ^ . , Runout length L„ for indicated traffic volume, ft (m) Design speed, R mi/h (km/h) >6000 ADT 6000-2000 ADT 2000-800 ADT <800 ADT 70 (110) 475 (145) 445 (135) 395 (120) 360 (110) 60 (100) 425 (130) 400 (120) 345 (105) 330 (100) 55 (90) 360 (110) 345 (105) 315 (95) 280 (85) 50 (80) 330 (100) 300 (90) 260 (80) 245 (75) 45 (70) 260 (80) 245 (75) 215 (65) 200 (60) 40 (60) 230 (70) 200 (60) 180 (55) 165 (50) 30 (50) 165 (50) 165 (50) 150 (45) 130 (40) Source: From Roadside Design Guide, AASHTO, Washington, D.C., 2002 and 2006, with permission.

length of need X in advance of the area of concern, for essentially straight sections of roadway, can be calculated from

Подпись: (6.1)La + (/a)/) – L2
(b/a) + (La/Lr)

Подпись: Y Length of Need Length of Need Подпись: (6.2)

The lateral offset Y from the edge of the traveled way to the beginning of the length of need is

R

The amount of rail installed should be a multiple of 12.5 or 25 ft (3.8 or 7.6 m), because metal-beam barriers are furnished in these lengths. A crashworthy end treat­ment must be added if the end treatment is located within the clear zone or in a loca­tion where it is likely to be struck. If the end treatment permits vehicle penetration, it must be extended upstream to preclude a vehicle from penetrating and striking the shielded feature.

Figure 6.24 shows the definition of variables of an approach barrier for opposing traffic. In this case, lateral dimensions are measured from the edge of the traveled way of the opposing traffic. This would be the centerline for a two-lane roadway or the edge of the driving lane next to the median for a two-way divided roadway. There are three ranges of clear zone width LC to consider for an approach barrier for opposing traffic:

• If the barrier is beyond the clear zone, no additional barrier or crashworthy end treatment is required.

• If the barrier is within the clear zone but the area of concern is beyond it, no addi­tional barrier is required but a crashworthy end treatment should be used.

• If the area of concern extends well beyond the clear zone, consider shielding only that portion which lies within the clear zone (set LA equal to LC).

The lateral placement of the approach rail should satisfy the criterion for embankment slopes. If steeper than 1:10, consider flattening the slope or decreasing the flare rate so the embankment criterion is not violated.

Clear distance line for opposing traffic

Length of Need

FIGURE 6.24 Layout of barrier approach. (From Roadside Design Guide, AASHTO, Washington, D. C., 2002 and 2006, with permission)

STEP 5 INSTALL THE STARTER STRIPS AND THE TRIM FOR VINYL SIDING

The most important thing to keep in mind as you’re installing vinyl siding is that it expands and contracts significantly with tem­perature changes. All siding components and installation details are designed to cope with this temperature-induced movement. Review the installation information discussed through­out this chapter. Make sure you comply with the manufacturer’s instructions that come with the siding. It’s also smart to check with builders

Подпись: Install vinyl trim. Attached along edges and corners, vinyl molding helps secure siding panels and contributes to a nice, finished appearance. Starter strips are installed along the bottom edge of the wall (left). To allow for heat-induced expansion, the end of a starter strip should be at least 1 in. away from the outside corner trim (below).
STEP 5 INSTALL THE STARTER STRIPS AND THE TRIM FOR VINYL SIDING

in your area for any local wisdom. This is the best way to avoid the bulges, buckles, and tears that can result from incorrect installation. Most vinyl siding should not be nailed firmly against sheathing. The installation slots in the siding, starter strips, and other vinyl components are there for a reason. Keep the nail heads proud of the vinyl so that the vinyl can move.

The tools you need to install vinyl siding are mostly tools you probably already own, but there are a few others you’ll need to either buy or make (see the sidebar on p. 166). These tools are also handy for the sheet-metal work we’ll tackle later in the chapter.

Terrain Effects

Ideally, at the moment of impact, a vehicle should have all wheels on the ground and the suspension system in a neutral state. Thus, terrain conditions between the traveled way and the barrier are very important. For example, curbs should be avoided and should be no higher than 4 in (100 mm) if used. In many cases, they can be located behind the barrier. Barriers are usually tested on level terrain. If installed on slopes steeper than 1:10, vehicles may go over standard barriers or impact them too low, and thus not perform as anticipated.

6.7.2 Flare Rate

Roadside barriers must be flared (must have variable offset from the traveled way) to locate the barrier terminal back from the roadway and thus to minimize drivers’ reaction to a perceived hazard near the road when approaching a bridge parapet or railing, for example. However, the greater the flare rate, the greater the potential impact angle and the severity of an accident if the barrier is hit. Also, the chance that a vehicle would be redirected across the roadway increases. Maximum flare rates depend on design speed, barrier type, and location relative to the shy line as shown in Table 6.4. Adjustment to a flatter rate is sometimes made to avoid extensive grading.

Flare rate for
barrier beyond shy line

70 (110)

30:1

20:1

15:1

60 (100)

26:1

18:1

14:1

55 (90)

24:1

16:1

12:1

50 (80)

21:1

14:1

11:1

45 (70)

18:1

12:1

10:1

40 (60)

16:1

10:1

8:1

30 (50)

13:1

8:1

7:1

Design speed, Flare rate for barrier Rigid Semirigid

mi/h (km/h) inside shy line systems systems

Source: From Roadside Design Guide, AASHTO, Washington, D. C.,

2002 and 2006, with permission.

STEP2 Install the Housewrap and Flash Openings

We didn’t use housewrap on this project, but this thin protective layer is worth considering on any house where finish siding is applied over wood framing. Modern housewraps, such asTyvek® and Barricade®, are lightweight, fabric-like materials that come in huge rolls and are literally wrapped around the walls of a house. The main purpose of this treatment is to form a drainage plane behind the siding to stop wind-driven water from penetrating into the wall cavity. No siding is completely water­tight, so in areas where hard, wind-driven rain is common, housewrap can help protect the walls from moisture damage. However, house – wrap is not a replacement for good flashing around doors, windows, and decks. Rather, it adds to those flashing systems, with upper layers always overlapping lower layers like shingles on a house. In addition to helping keep water out, housewrap reduces air leakage

but is porous enough to allow water vapor to escape from inside the house.

Climate plays a huge role in determining how housewraps are used. We live in a coun­try with an astonishing diversity of climates, and these varied conditions require different solutions for protecting a house and its inhab­itants from the elements. Even the type of wall covering you use can affect your wrapping strategy. Talk to builders in your area (and to the building inspector) to find out what’s used locally and why.

STEP2 Install the Housewrap and Flash Openings

Подпись: HOUSEWRAP KEEPS OUT WIND AND WATER. Modern house- wraps can be applied over sheathing or directly over framing, as was done here. After wrapping the walls completely, make "X" cuts at the window and door openings, then fold and staple the flaps inside. [Photo * Memo Jasso.] Подпись: r іПодпись: Helping HandПодпись: Old-fashioned housewrap is easy to install. Asphalt- impregnated paper, known as builder's felt or felt paper, has been around for generations. If you use felt paper instead of plastic, buy a heavy, quality product and apply it starting at the bottom of the house and working upward. Make sure each successive course laps over the previous one by 4 in. horizontally and 6 in. or more vertically (where the ends meet).Installing housewrap

Housewrap may be attached directly to studs, on top of wall sheathing, or over rigid foam. Modern plastic housewrap is usually white or gray and comes on huge 12-ft. rolls. Don’t plan to install housewrap on your own; this is definitely a two – or three-person job. The only installation tools required are a staple gun and a sharp utility knife. Here are the basic steps: [3] [4]
with a circular saw. Staple the free end of the roll near a corner of the house and unroll it over the entire side of the house, with one or two helpers stapling as you go. Cover the win­dow and door openings. When you’ve finished one side, simply keep rolling onto the next one until you’ve made your way all around the house.

3. Seal joints and repair tears, if necessary. Hopefully, you can skip this step. But if you can’t create a continuous wrap around the house, make sure you overlap the wrap by at least 16 in. or one stud space. Seal the seam with the sticky, self-adhering tape made for this purpose. Be sure to get some when you pick up (or take delivery of) your housewrap. Repair a tear in the housewrap by applying a patch from the top of the wall down over the tear, so that water will drain properly. Seal the tear with tape.

4. Cut and wrap the window and door open­ings. To finish the installation, cut an“X”-slice in the housewrap, cover each window and door opening, then pull the cut ends inside the house and staple them around the trim­mers, header, and rough sill. Staple the flaps right away so they don’t get caught by the wind and torn.

Windows ■ BY MIKE GUERTIN

W

indows wear out before a house does. Sometimes the need for replacement windows is obvious, such as when you encounter poorly functioning single-pane sashes with weights. But even windows with insulated glass become difficult to operate, suffer from damaged seals, or show signs of deterioration.

The good news is that replacement win­dows eliminate these problems, offering improved appearance and easier operation, along with greater levels of energy efficiency. Window replacement could save you 5% to 15% off your heating and cooling bills, but how much you’ll save depends on where you live (the potential is much higher in cold climates) and how inefficient your ex­isting windows are.

In some cases, air sealing and better insu­lation elsewhere in your house (see "Home Remedies for Energy Nosebleeds," pp. 12-19) offer more bang for your energy buck. The best way to tell is with a home-energy audit, which will identify the biggest deficiencies in your home’s energy envelope (see "Every House Needs an Energy Audit," pp. 4-11).

If you find that your windows are costing you energy dollars, you can go one of two ways: Hire a full-service installer to measure, order, and install new windows for you; or buy and install them yourself. Replacement windows are easy to order and quick to install, and you can save money if you tackle this project yourself.

Evaluate

Existing Windows

The installation shown here took place in a modest Cape that still had its original single­glazed, sash-weighted windows—a perfect candidate for replacement windows. I chose frame-and-sash replacement windows (also known as pocket windows) because the ex­isting window jambs, sills, and trim were solid, and the siding was in good condition. Had the window frames been rotted or the siding in need of replacement, I would have had to install new-construction windows using the old rough openings. The budget didn’t allow for the extra labor to tackle full

Подпись: Accurate measurements, thorough caulking, and proper installation will maximize your savings.
Windows &amp;#9632; BY MIKE GUERTIN

window replacement, which would have required the siding to be stripped back, and the interior and exterior trim to be removed and then reinstalled or replaced.

Finally, I didn’t want to disturb the home­owners. Pocket windows are quick to install and create little mess inside or out. On aver­age, working alone, I can install one in less than 30 minutes.

Choosing the Right Windows

As a contractor, I order windows directly from more than a dozen manufacturers. Some are national, others regional, and a couple make their windows locally near where I work. National and regional manu­facturers generally don’t sell directly to

Windows &amp;#9632; BY MIKE GUERTIN

Windows &amp;#9632; BY MIKE GUERTINWindows &amp;#9632; BY MIKE GUERTINWindows &amp;#9632; BY MIKE GUERTIN

Windows &amp;#9632; BY MIKE GUERTIN

2. Windows &amp;#9632; BY MIKE GUERTINПодпись: 1. Remove sash stops. Cut the paint at the jamb joint with a utility knife; then drive a stiff paint scraper into the joint to pry off the stops. Be careful not to damage anything because the sash stops will be reused.Windows &amp;#9632; BY MIKE GUERTINCarefully remove the sashes. swing the inside sash out of the window opening, and cut the counterweight cords to free the sash. Remove the small parting bead between the sashes, and take out the outer sash the same way.

Windows &amp;#9632; BY MIKE GUERTIN

3. Windows &amp;#9632; BY MIKE GUERTINПодпись:Remove the weights. open the counterweight doors to remove the weights and cords; then unscrew the pulleys and remove them. some installation guides suggest hammering the old pulleys into the jamb, but I disagree. The pulley holes make good view spots when installing insulation.

Effect of Water and Loading on Structure Behaviour on Rut Progression

Accelerated load testing of pavements was done with the HVS-NORDIC at VTI in Sweden in 1998 (Wiman, 2001). Figure 8.5 shows the rut depth measurements for a weak pavement comprising a 49mm thick asphalt layer over a bitumen sta­bilised granular base of thickness 89mm over a sand subgrade 2.5 m thick (mean thicknesses).

After 500 000 passes the increase in rut depth was constant and only 0.88 mm/100 000 passes. Then it was decided to increase the test load from 60-80 kN

Passes

0 500 000 1 000 000 1 500 000 2 000 000 2 500 000

Fig. 8.5 Rut depth propagation rates during test SE01. Figure courtesy L. Wiman, reproduced by permission of VTI

and the tyre pressure from 800 to 1000 kPa. The rut propagation increased but only to 1.03 mm/100 000 passes. The next step was to weakening the sub grade by adding water to the sand to bring the water table to a level 300 mm below the surface of the sub grade – the highest level permitted in the Swedish specifications when constructing new pavements. The test load was at the same time reset to 60 kN and a tyre pressure of 800 kPa. Now the rut propagation increased to 4.16 mm/100 000 passes and the first cracks could be seen at the pavement surface.