STEP 6 INSTALL THE SIDING PANELS

Thanks to the work you did in the previous step, panel installation can go quickly, especially when you have a good-size crew, as we did on this job. The first panel course is always the bottom-most course. Start against the corner on one side of the house (preferably the back corner). Pull up the first panel, snap it into the starter strip, and slide the end of the panel under the corner trim’s top edge. Keep the panel seated in the starter strip as you drive nails into each stud. The nail heads should be Мб in. proud of the flange. Don’t drive nails at the edge of a slot or through the vinyl itself. If the prepunched slot is not centered over a stud, lengthen the slot with a utility knife or a slot-punch tool.

STEP 6 INSTALL THE SIDING PANELSПодпись: Trim around a door. J-channel trim is nailed around the window and door frames, with a tab in the top piece bent to fit around the corner.Подпись: The work goes quickly. With a Habitat-size crew, this siding job moves along at a good pace. Short offcuts from one side of the house can often be used elsewhere to minimize waste. Once the panel is nailed in position, check whether you can slide it back and forth manu­ally. If the panel won’t slide, find out where it’s getting hung up and fix the problem. After you’ve checked that the panel is free to move, you can, if you like, nail it fast near the middle. Some builders prefer this technique, which

Some volunteers prefer contrast between the white cor­ner trim and the brown siding, whereas others aren’t sure whether it looks attractive.

We install siding panels from the bottom up.

Each new course of panels snaps onto the one below.

You can’t drive the nails hard against the vinyl because it needs to move.

With snips and utility knives, we measure, trim, and cut to fit around windows, doors, outlets, and vents.

The vinyl soffit panels are filled with small holes so that air can pass into the attic space.

They finish off the eaves nicely.

STEP 6 INSTALL THE SIDING PANELS

Photos top row and bottom left courtesy HFHI

 

Подпись: Turn the blade backward! For smoother, shatter-free cuts in vinyl siding, use a fine-tooth paneling blade in a circular saw and turn the blade so that the teeth face backward. The same backward rule applies if you're using a chopsaw or radial-arm saw to cut vinyl siding.Подпись: Cutouts are challenging. This siding panel was notched to fit over a door and a window. It's important to measure carefully so that the cutout edges fit properly in the J-channel around the doors and windows.

encourages the panel to expand and contract equally in both directions.

The clearance between the end of a panel and the inside edges of the trim pieces depends on the temperature. If it’s over 90°F when you install the siding, leave the panel end about 14 in. away from the trim piece’s inside edge. If it’s less than 30°F, leave a good Vi in. of clearance at each end so there’s room for heat-induced expansion. For temperatures between these two extremes, gauge accordingly.

Cutting and lapping panels

When you come to an opening or reach the end of a wall, cut a panel to fit. Remember always to leave room for expansion. Cut panels to length with a tablesaw, as described earlier using a circular saw with the blade in back­ward. You can also crosscut with a radial-arm saw, a sliding compound-miter saw, a utility knife, a hacksaw, or even tinsnips. Plan each siding cut so that the cut ends are hidden in the corner posts, in the J-channel trim, or by the factory edge of an overlapping panel. Panels that join within a course should overlap by at least 1 in.

You’ll notice that the nailing flange on a siding panel is cut back about 1 in. from the end of the panel. When two panels join each other in the same course, their nailing flanges should never butt together on the wall. When necessary, cut back the nailing flanges so that those in the same course are separated by at least 1 in.

It’s best to lap the panels between—not on— the studs. Try not to install pieces shorter than 3 ft. long, especially in high-wind areas. And don’t let the overlaps where siding panels meet stack over one another in subsequent courses. Rather, randomly separate these overlaps by two or three studs, so that you don’t create a staircase pattern. The pattern created by the installed vinyl panels should be pleasing to the eye.

Pull each panel up snugly against the lock­ing hem of the previous panel, but don’t stretch it. Panels that were stretched tightly when they
were installed (especially in warm weather) can tear when cold weather causes them to contract. Before moving on to the next row, make sure each panel is free to move back and forth horizontally.

As you proceed upward, measure down from the underside of the trusses to each row to ensure that the siding is remaining level around the building. Vinyl siding can stretch upward and easily become out of level. Some builders snap level chalklines every 2 ft. or so around the building to serve as reference points while they install rows of siding.

Median Barrier End Treatments

Median barriers, similar to roadside barriers, should be introduced and terminated with safety in mind. Openings or breaks in barriers should be kept to a minimum to negate the need for end treatments. Where openings are required, shield barrier ends or, if the median

SGM04a (with non­steel blocks)

Подпись: AASHTO Designation: SGM04a SGM04b Test Level: TL-2 TL-3 Post Type: W6x 9 8 in x 8 in timber* Post Spacing: 6 ft-3 in 6 ft-3 in Beam Type: Two steel W-sections Two steel W-sections Offset Brackets: Two W6 x 9 Two routed 8 in x 8 in x 14 in timber or plastic Nominal Barrier Height: 27 in 27 in Maximum Dynamic Deflection: Approximately 2 ft Approximately 2 ft

Подпись: SGM06a Подпись: SGM04a
Median Barrier End Treatments

TL-3 W6x9 6ft-3 in Two steel W – sections

Two 6 in x 8 in x 14 in timber or plastic 27 in

Подпись: SGM06a TL-3 W6x9 6 ft-3 in Two steel W- sections Two routed 6 in x 8 in x 14 in timber or plastic 30 in Approximately 2 ft Подпись: SGM06b TL-3 6 in x 8 in timber* 6 ft-3 in Two steel W-sections Two routed 6 in x 8 in x 14 in timber or plastic 30 in Approximately 2 ft
Подпись: AASHTO Designation: Test Level: Post Type: Post Spacing: Beam Type: Offset Brackets: Nominal Barrier Height: Maximum Dynamic Deflection:

Approximately 2 ft

Remarks: These systems are semirigid and are satisfactory for use in narrow medians. After typical impacts, the system remains serviceable. Some states use a W-section as a rubrail, centered at 10 in above grade. This modification is appropriate for both the SGM06a and b, and a higher SGM04a and b. By dividing any of these systems into parallel roadside barriers, assuming adequate deflection distance, fixed objects in the median can be effectively shielded,

*6 in x 8 in post and blockout is acceptable

FIGURE 6.29 W-beam (strong-post) median barrier. Conversions: 1 in = 25.4 mm, 1 ft = 0.305 m. (From Roadside Design Guide, AASHTO, Washington, D. C., 2002 and 2006, with permission) is sufficiently wide, flare or offset the barrier. In locations where impacts are likely, end treatments must be crashworthy. Also, they should safely redirect vehicles impacting from the rear, where hits from opposing traffic are likely. Many proprietary devices are available for terminals. Appropriate end terminals for W-beam barriers include the CAT or Brakemaster. For concrete barriers consider the ADIEM, the TRACC, the QuadGuard™, and the REACT-350®. Sand barriers can also be used to shield median barrier ends, particularly where medians are wide and the likelihood of impacts from opposing traffic is low.

SGM09a

SGM09b

AASHTO Designation:

SGM09a (with non steel

SGM09b

SGM09c

blocks)

Test Level:

TL-3

TD4

TL-3

Post Type:

W6x 9

W6x9

6 in xSin timber

Post Spacing:

6 ft-3 in

6 ft-3 in

6 ft-3 in

Beam Type:

Two thrie-beams

Two thrie-beams

Two thrie-beams

Offset Brackets:

Routed 6 in x 8 in timber

M14in x 17.2 in steel

6 in x8in timber or

or plastic

plastic

Nominal Barrier Height:

32 in

32 in

32 in

Maximum Dynamic Deflection:

Approximately 20 in

Approximately 20 in

Approximately 20 in

Remarks; SGM09 systems are satisfactory for use in narrow medians. Normal impacts do little damage to the rail.

Under severe impact conditions, the rail of an SGM09b system remains upright and has the capability to redirect 40,000-lb vehicles impacting at 50 mph and at an angle of і 5 degrees.

Median Barrier End Treatments
Median Barrier End Treatments

FIGURE 6.30 Thrie-beam (strong-post) median barrier. Conversions: 1 in = 25.4 mm, 1 ft = 0.305 m. (From Roadside Design Guide, AASHTO, Washington, D. C., 2002 and 2006, with permission)

Raising the walls

Like barn raisings of old, it often takes a few warm bodies to raise a framed, unsheathed wall. For raising sheathed walls, it takes even more people or a wall jack. For your safety, don’t try either job solo. And, as always, start with a clear deck.

With the first wall assembled, align the bottom plate with the chalkline on the floor if it hasn’t already been toenailed in position. To keep the wall from slip­ping over the outside edge while it’s being raised, nail pieces of 2x stock to the rim joist so that they stick up above the floor a few inches to catch and hold the bottom plate (see the photo at right). On a slab, bolts hold the bottom plate in place; otherwise, the bottom plate is toenailed to the deck.

To lift up an unsheathed wall, stick the claws of your hammer into the double top plate, lever the wall up a bit, and kick a 2x block beneath a member. Keeping your back straight, lift the wall to your waist using your legs, then over­head with your arms and upper body (see the photo on p. 120). Then, by pushing on the studs, continue to raise the wall until it is fully upright. Losing a newly raised wall is a common fear of beginning carpenters, but once the wall is upright, it is easy to hold in this posi­tion unless a Wyoming wind is blowing.

With the wall in position, nail a tempo­rary 2x brace to each end, extending diagonally from about б ft. up on the corner stud down to the rim joist (I like to attach the brace to the wall before I raise it). Drive a 16d nail in each end of the brace. On long walls, nail other braces in the middle. Make sure that temporary wall braces are secure, espe­cially if you have to leave them over-

Подпись: When raising a wall, keep your back straight and lift the wall to your waist using your legs. Then push the wall overhead with your arms and upper body until it is fully upright. (Photo by Roe A. Osborn.)

night. I’ve returned to a job site to find walls blown over because temporary braces weren’t securely nailed.

If the wall needs to be moved end for end or aligned with the chalkline, tap the bottom plate into place with a sledgehammer. Once the wall is where it belongs, nail it to the floor, using one 16d nail between every stud and beside every king stud. Once again, drive those nails close to the studs to leave room for plumbers and electricians to drill through without hitting a nail. Don’t nail in doorways because you’ll be cutting out the plate when you set the door frame later.

After the first wall is done, nail together another outside through wall, raise it, and brace it. Then build and raise the butt walls (see the photo on the facing page). Remember to cut the double top plate for a 2×4 wall about ЗУ2 in. longer at each end of the butt wall so it can lap over and tie into the through walls. Because of the top-plate overhang, the butt walls may have to be raised one end at a time. Pick up one end to clear the through wall and sort of roll the other end up into position. Remove the temporary brace on the through wall and pull the two walls together. Make sure that the plates of both walls are flat on the floor and not held up by debris,

Подпись: After the first wall is done, nail together another outside through wall, raise it, and brace it. Then build and raise the butt walls. (Photo by Roe A. Osborn.)

then nail the end stud of the butt wall into each corner or channel with three evenly spaced 16d nails, just as you did on the three-stud corners. After you’ve nailed together and raised the remaining walls, stand back and enjoy the impres­sive sight of a framed-in building.

Almost like magic, it’s starting to look like a house.

TOOLS FOR VINYL SIDING

TOOLS FOR VINYL SIDINGA long, flat work surface is essential for vinyl siding and sheet-metal work. A couple of 2×12 boards on sawhorses work fine. For precise 90- degree-angle cuts and angled rake cuts, I suggest making a cutting jig for a circular saw (see the bottom center photo).The jig, which sits on a long worktable, is essentially a wooden cradle that guides the base of the circular saw. The cradle can be positioned at a right angle, or at other angles, to the siding.

Use both right – and left-handed aviation snips to make straight and curved cutouts (see the center right photo); tinsnips are also helpful. Other specialty tools you’ll need include a slot punch, to make nailing slots in siding (see the top right photo); a snap-lock punch, to create crimps or tabs that lock into the finish trim (see the bottom right photo); and a zip tool, in case you need to remove a damaged panel from a wall.

TOOLS FOR VINYL SIDING

Подпись: Don't nail IIP it—hang it. If you remember that most vinyl siding is hung rather than nailed, you'll avoid the common error of driving nails tightly against the siding.

as you install it around the building, and drive your first nail in each piece no less than 4 in. from an end. Remember: The strip must be able to move beneath the nail heads. At a wall’s outside corner, the starter strip must be 1 in. or more from the vinyl corner trim, as shown in the right photo on p. 165. Keep the strip ІУ2 in. to 2 in. from the inside corners.

Corner trim, J-channel, and undersill trim

The corner trim pieces, which receive the ends of the vinyl siding panels, must be installed straight and plumb or they won’t look attractive. Hold a short, cutoff piece of vinyl corner post against the sheathed corner of the house and mark the edge of the flange on both sides of the
corner at the top and bottom of the wall. Snap a chalkline between the marks. Set a corner post /4 in. to У2 in. down from the soffit, and drive a Р/2-in.-long nail at the top of a slot on both sides of the corner. The corner post hangs from these nails, allowing the vinyl to move. Hold the posts directly on the chalklines and drive nails about every 12 in. in both flanges, down to the bottom of the wall. Keep each nail in the center of its slot. The corner posts should extend /’2 in. to 1 in. below the starter strip.

Most doors and windows have factory-made siding channels. If yours do not, install J-chan – nel along the top and sides of the window to hide the ends of the siding. You can use a miter or a square cut at the top corners. Either way, at the ends of the top piece, leave l-in.-long drain tabs that can be folded down over the window sides. This helps channel water down around the window (see the photo at right).

Characteristics of Median Barriers

Like roadside barriers, median barriers can be classified as flexible, semirigid, or rigid as indicated in Table 6.7. Figures 6.26 through 6.35 show details of these various types of median barriers and factors to be considered in selection and application. Additional comments on several of the systems follow. In many of their characteristics they are similar to their roadside barrier counterparts.

Typical three-strand cable systems (Fig. 6.26) should be used only if there is ade­quate deflection distance, about 12 ft (3.5 m) in each direction. Performance is sensi­tive to mounting height. Proper end anchorage is critical. They are not well suited for areas hit frequently, on sharp curves, and on facilities with high truck volumes.

Characteristics of Median Barriers

сл

о

00

 

о ю 20 30 40 50 60 70

 

MEDIAN WIDTH (feet)

 

Characteristics of Median BarriersCharacteristics of Median Barriers

TABLE 6.7 Classification of Median Barriers and Approved Test Levels

Barrier system

Test level

Flexible systems

Three-strand cable (weak-post)

TL-3

High-tension cable (weak-post)

TL-3

W-beam guardrail (weak-post) Semirigid systems

TL-2

Box beam (weak-post) Blocked-out W-beam (strong-post)

TL-3

Steel or wood post with wood

TL-3

or plastic block Steel post with steel block

TL-2

Blocked-out thrie-beam (strong-post)

Wood or steel post with wood

TL-3

or plastic block

Modified thrie-beam

TL-4

Rigid systems

Concrete barrier

New Jersey shape

32 in (810 mm) tall

TL-4

42 in (1070 mm) tall F-shape

TL-5

32 in (810 mm) tall

TL-4

42 in (1070 mm) tall Single-slope

TL-5

32 in (810 mm) tall

TL-4

42 in (1070 mm) tall Vertical wall

TL-5

32 in (810 mm) tall

TL-4

42 in (1070 mm) tall

TL-5

Quickchange® movable barrier

TL-3

(including SRTS and CRTS)*

*SRTS refers to the steel reactive tension system; CRTS refers to the concrete reactive tension system.

Source: From Roadside Design Guide, AASHTO,

Washington, D. C., 2002 and 2006, with permission.

Deflection can be reduced by decreasing post pacing. The system shown meets the TL-3 requirements.

High-tension cable systems are installed with significantly greater cable tension. They reduce deflections to 6.6 to 9.2 ft (2 to 2.8 m) and often show less damage after impact. Several proprietary systems have been accepted by the FHWA.

The W-beam (weak-post) system (Fig. 6.27) is sensitive to mounting. Proper end anchorage is essential. It is not well suited where terrain irregularities exist or where frost heave or erosion is likely to alter the mounting height by more than 2 in (50 mm). However, it is suitable for relatively flat, traversable medians without curbs or ditches that could affect vehicle trajectory. This is a Tl-2 system.

The box-beam (weak-post) median barrier (Fig. 6.28) is a TL-3 system, most suit­able for traversable medians with no significant irregularities. Posts have to be repaired after most hits to maintain correct beam height, so it should not be used in areas where it is likely to be frequently hit.

Подпись: AASHTO Designation: Test Level: Post Type: Post Spacing: Beam Type: Nominal Barrier Height: Maximum Dynamic Deflection:

Characteristics of Median Barriers

None (the former single-strand cable “MBI” is obsolete)

TD3

S3 x 5.7 steel 16 ft

V4-in-dia. steel cable 30 in 11 ft-6 in

Remarks: Because of the high dynamic deflection for cable systems, they are not recommended for use in medians narrower than approximately 23 ft, nor in medians which contain rigid objects. The extensive damage done during moderate to severe impacts leaves a significant length of barrier inoperative until repairs can be made. Cable median barrier systems are recommended for use on irregular terrain and on wider medians where the need is only to prevent infrequent, potentially catastrophic cross-median crashes. For proper performance it is essential that this system be installed and maintained at the correct mounting height. This system is similar to the 3-strand cable roadside barrier, except that one of the cables is mounted on the opposite side of the post from the other two.

FIGURE 6.26 Three-cable median barrier. Conversions: 1 in = 25.4 mm, 1 ft = 0.305 m. (From Roadside Design Guide, AASHTO, Washington, D. C., 2002 and 2004, with permission)

The blocked-out W-beam (strong-post) median barrier meets TL-3 or TL-2, depending upon the post type and blocking used. Figure 6.29 shows several variations of the system. Mounting heights of 30 in (760 mm) are sometimes specified but have not been tested. A separate rub rail (usually a steel channel or tube) has sometimes been added to minimize postsnagging problems with the higher mounting height.

The blocked-out thrie-beam (strong-post) median barrier meets TL-3 and the modified thrie-beam meets TL-4. The post type and blocking used affect the rating (Fig. 6.30). The thrie-beam is capable of accommodating a larger range of vehicle sizes than the W-beam because of its greater beam depth. Also, the deeper beam eliminates the need for a rubrail.

The concrete safety shape (Fig. 6.31) is the most common rigid median barrier because of low cost, effective performance, and low maintenance. Approved shapes include the New Jersey and F-shaped barriers, the single-slope barrier, and the vertical wall barrier.

Подпись: AASHTO Designation: Test Level: Post Type: Post Spacing: Beam Type: Offset Brackets: Nominal Barrier Height: Maximum Dynamic Deflection: Characteristics of Median Barriers

Remarks: This barrier system is suitable for wide, flat medians where sufficient space is available to accommodate deflections. In order to place rigid objects within the median, the SGM02 must be divided into parallel SGR02 barriers with the objects centered in a 23-ft-plus gap or be transitioned to a semirigid system.

FIGURE 6.27 W-beam (weak-post) median barrier. Conversions: 1 in = 25.4 mm, 1 ft = 0.305 m. (From Roadside Design Guide, AASHTO, Washington, D. C., 2002 and 2006, with permission)

When adequately designed and reinforced, all of these meet the requirements of TL-4 at the standard height of 810 mm (32 in) and TL-5 at heights of 1070 mm (42 in) and higher. The New Jersey and F-shape barriers (Fig. 6.31), commonly referred to as safety shapes, differ in the height of the break point (change of slope of the face). The F-shape may per­form better with regard to vehicle roll when subjected to small vehicle impact. When pavement overlays exceed 3 in (75 mm), the height of the concrete above the break point must be increased to maintain an adequate height. Figures 6.32 and 6.33 show tall-wall safety-shape barriers (reinforced and nonreinforced concrete) that have been used success­fully. The single-slope barrier (Fig. 6.34) offers an advantage over others in that the pave­ment next to it can be overlaid several times, reducing the height to 42 in (1070 mm), without affecting performance. Foundation requirements do not appear critical, and there are many variations. Concrete median barriers can be slipformed, precast, or cast in place. A sand-filled metal version has been used in several states on an experimental basis.

Two important factors for safety-shape concrete barriers should be noted. Although the barrier does not deflect when hit, passenger vehicles may become air­borne and even reach the top in high-angle, high-speed impacts. Fixed objects on top of the barrier such as luminaire supports can cause snagging. Also, even for shallow-angle

Подпись: SGM03 TL-3 S3 x 5.7 6 ft 8 in x 6 in x ‘/4 in steel tube None Steel paddles 30 in 5 ft-6 in

Characteristics of Median Barriers

A ASHTO Designation:

Test Level:

Post Type:

Post Spacing:

Beam Type:

Offset Brackets:

Mountings;

Nominal Barrier Height:

Maximum Dynamic Deflection:

Remarks: This barrier system is suitable for both wide and narrow medians and locations where the terrain is moderately irregular. Even moderate vehicle impacts cause a large number of posts to be damaged, Temporary supports may be used to maintain beam height until posts are replaced.

FIGURE 6.28 Box-beam median barrier. Conversions: 1 in = 25.4 mm, 1 ft = 0.305 m. (From Roadside Design Guide, AASHTO, Washington, D. C., 2002 and 2006, with permission) impacts, the roll angle of a high-center-of-gravity vehicle may be great enough to permit contact of the cargo box with objects on or just behind the barrier. Taller barriers offer improved characteristics in this regard.

The movable concrete barrier is an F-shaped barrier furnished in lengths of 37 in (940 mm) and arranged in a chain fashion with ends joined by pins. The proprietary Quickchange® system is shown in Fig. 6.35. The T segment at the top facilitates lifting. The system is often used in construction zones where traffic lanes are opened and closed frequently. Various other systems are available.

Variable transformation method

The variable transformation method generates a random variate of interest based on its known statistical relationship with other random variables the variates of which can be produced easily. For example, one is interested in generating chi-square random variates with n degrees of freedom. The CDF – inverse method is not appropriate in this case because the chi-square CDF is not analytically expressible. However, knowing the fact that the sum of n squared independent standard normal random variables gives a chi-square random variable with n degrees of freedom (see Sec. 2.6.6), one could generate chi-square random variates from first producing n standard normal random variates, then squaring them, and finally adding them together. Therefore, the variable transformation method is sometimes effective for generating random variates from a complicated distribution based on variates produced from sim­ple distributions. In fact, many algorithms described in the next section are based on the idea of variable transformation.

An Overview of Plumbing Systems

A plumbing system is a loop of sorts, created by supply (or delivery) pipes that carry potable water to the house and its fixtures and by drainage, waste, and venting (DWV) pipes that carry waste water, effluvia, and sewage gases away from the fixtures—sinks, toilets, lavatories, washing machines, and so on.

These two systems within a system are quite different from each other. DWV pipes are larger and must slope downward so wastes can fall freely (by gravity) and sewage gases can rise through vents. Consequently, large DWV pipes can be difficult to route through framing. By con­trast, smaller water-supply pipes are easy to run through studs and joists, and they deliver water under pressure, so there’s no need to slope them.

THE WATER SUPPLY

The pipe that delivers water to a house (from a city water main or an individual well) is called the service pipe. So it won’t freeze, a service pipe must run below the frost line and enter a building through its foundation. Typically, a 1-in. service pipe is controlled by a main shutoff valve shortly after it enters a building; but municipal hookups may enter a water meter first. Plumbing codes may also require a pressure-reducing valve if water pressure is more than 80 psi (pounds per square inch).

On the other side of the shutoff valve, the serv­ice pipe continues as the main supply pipe, com­monly % in. in diameter. At some point, the main supply pipe enters a tee fitting, at which point it splits, with one leg continuing on as a cold-water trunk line and the other feeding into the water heater, where it emerges as the hot-water trunk line. From the 14-in. hot and cold trunks run vari­ous /2-in. branch lines that serve fixture groups. Finally, individual risers (supply tubes) run from branch lines to fixtures. Risers are % in. or 12 in. in diameter and connect to fixtures with threaded fittings. By decreasing in diameter as they get farther from the trunk lines, supply pipes help maintain constant water pressure.

Before the 1950s, supply pipes were usually galvanized steel, joined by threaded fixtures, but steel pipes corrode and corrosion constricts flow. Consequently, rigid copper piping, which cor­rodes more slowly, soon replaced galvanized. Joined by soldering (sweat fitting), copper was also easier to install and has been the dominant supply piping since the 1950s. Rigid plastic pipe, especially CPVC (chlorinated polyvinyl chloride), has gained market share because it is corrosion

image530

Originating at a service pipe from the street (or from a well), the main supply pipe splits at a T-fitting, with one leg feeding cold-water trunk lines and the other entering the water heater to emerge as the hot-water trunk line.

resistant, less expensive than copper, and easily assembled with solvent cement. But it may be PEX (cross-linked polyethylene) flexible piping that will finally dethrone King Copper (PEX is discussed later in this chapter).

DRAINAGE, WASTE, AND VENTING

The DWV system carries wastes and sewage gases away from the house.

► Every fixture has a drain trap designed to remain filled with water after the fixture empties. This residual water keeps sewage gases from rising into living spaces. (Toilets have integral traps.) As trap arms leave individual fixtures, they empty into branch drains or directly into a soil stack, which, at its base, turns and becomes the main drain. The main drain then discharges into a city sewer main or a septic tank.

Подпись: PROTIP If you're new to plumbing and need help, learn the lingo and get to know the staff at a local plumbing-supply store. But visit the store during off-peak hours. The last thing counter clerks need during the 8 a.m. rush is duffers with dinky orders and a million questions. When business is slow, however, most of these clerks are happy to share what they know. 1111 Drainpipes may also be differentiated according to the wastes they carry: soil pipes and soil stacks carry fecal matter and urine, whereas waste pipes carry waste water but not soil. Stacks are vertical pipes, although they may jog slightly to avoid obstacles.

► Venting is the Fin DWV. Without venting, wastes would either not fall at all or, in falling, would suck the water out of fixture traps, allowing sewage gases to enter living spaces. Vents admit an amount of air equal to that displaced by the falling water. Thus every fixture must be vented. In most cases, the trap arm exits into a tee fitting whose bottom leg is a branch drain and whose upper leg is a branch vent. Branch vents continue upward, often joining other fixture vents, until they join a vent stack, which exits through the roof.

image531

Drainpipes must slope downward at least ‘/4 in. per foot so wastes can fall freely. Vent pipes must slope upward at least ‘/8 in. per foot so sewage gases can rise and exit the building.

Because vents must admit enough air to offset that displaced by falling water, vents are approxi­mately the same size as their companion drains. Branch vents and drains are usually 112-in. or 2-in. pipes, and main stacks and drains are 3 in. Minimums are indicated in "Minimum Drain, Trap, and Vent Sizes,” on p. 281. Important: Drainpipes must slope downward at least ‘/a in. per foot so that wastes will be carried out; vent pipes usually slope upward a minimun of 18 in. per foot.

DWV pipes may be of any number of materi­als. Thus an older house may have drain and vent pipes with sections of cast iron, galvanized steel, copper, or plastic. Because some of these materi­als are also used for supply, let size be your guide: If an existing pipe’s diameter is 114 in. to 4 in., it’s a drain or vent pipe. DWV pipes installed these days are mostly plastic: white PVC (polyvinyl chloride) or black ABS (acrylonitrile butadiene styrene). Fortunately, there is a host of ingenious fittings that enable you to tightly connect these various materials, should you need to. Note: If sound suppression is an issue, you should insu­late plastic pipes or install cast iron.

I A Drain Trap

image532

Water traps seal sewage gases from living spaces, but they need vents to operate properly. Without incoming air from the vent, falling wastes could suck the water out of traps.

Simple flashing details

Whether or not you wrap the house, it’s important to flash around the window and door openings. Especially with windows, proper flashing can prevent the water that runs down both sides of the window from entering the wall cavity through the sill area. To flash window and door openings, I gener­ally use б-in.- to 8-in.-wide strips of felt paper, installing the strips as shown in the illustration on the facing page. Don’t forget to install the top piece of flashing after the win­dow has been set in its opening. If housewrap

Подпись: FLASHING A WINDOWПодпись: 2. Attach the side pieces to overlap the bottom piece.Подпись: 1. Fasten the bottom flashing along the rough sill.Simple flashing detailsПодпись: 4. Install the top flashing over the window flange and side flashing.Подпись: 3. Install the window.Simple flashing detailsПодпись: Cut flashing strips 6 in. to 8 in. wide from good-quality builder's felt. Secure flashing with staples or Уг-іп. roofing nails.is used, you can still install a top piece of flashing. Cut a horizontal slit in the house – wrap above the window, then slip the top edge of the top flashing piece into the slit.

Plumbing

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Builders have benefited greatly from

the standardization of building materials, and nowhere is this more true than in plumbing. Whereas a plumber once had to fashion waste systems from cast iron, oakum, and melted lead, today one needs little more than plastic pipe and solvent-based cement. Such improved technology enables more people to understand, repair, and install plumbing. Would-be plumbers should do two things:

► Learn the vocabulary. Some people feel intimidated by the plethora of plumbing terms, especially fitting names. But there’s actually a logic to all those names, once you learn what a part does and why it is shaped as it is. Besides, you’ll get better service from plumbing-supply clerks if you can speak their language.

► Consult local plumbing codes before beginning a project. Codes protect your health and that of your neighbors. They spell out when you need permits, what materials you may use, and at what stages the work must be inspected. There is no national code, so most local building departments often follow the Uniform Plumbing Code (UPC) or the Inter­national Residential Code (IRC). Get a copy of local plumbing codes from your building department.

Recommended further reading: Merle Henkenius’s Plumbing (Creative Homeowner) and two books by Peter Hemp, Installing and Repairing Plumbing Fixtures and Plumbing a House (both The Taunton Press).

Local plumbing codes vary greatly. In general, you don’t need a permit if you replace a fixture, such as a sink, toilet, or washing machine, with­out changing existing pipes. However, if you want to add new fixtures or move existing ones, you’ll need a permit because you’ll need to change pipes.

Replacing a water heater also requires a permit —even if you connect to existing pipes. Here, the issue is safety: Inspectors want to make sure that gas – and oil-fired water heaters are properly vented and that electric heaters are correctly wired. They’ll also check that temperature – and pressure – relief (TPR) valves, which keep water heaters from exploding, are correctly rated and installed.

Starter strips

The installation of vinyl siding begins with different trim elements: starter strips, inside corners, outside corners, J-channel, and so on. The various trim details are designed to hide or interlock with siding ends and edges. As with other homebuilding phases, if you get started right, the next steps follow more smoothly. The critical first step is to put on a straight and level
starter strip right above the top of the concrete foundation wall or slab (see the photo above). This strip can usually be installed by nailing through the sheathing and into the bottom of the mudsill or sole plate. The strip’s bot­tom edge can then extend about 1 in. over the concrete.

With a house that is covered with housewrap, it is not always easy to see where to nail the starter strip. One way to establish the exact height of the strip is to measure down from the underside of the joist chords on the roof trusses and mark the proper height at various points around the house. This will ensure that the starter strip is level and equidistant from the top plates. Connect these points with a chalkline all around the house.

On long walls, keep the line from sagging in the middle by having someone hold the line to a height mark near the middle of the wall, then snap the chalkline from the center to both corners.

Starter stripsTo secure the starter strip, drive nails in the center of the installation slots, spacing them ev­ery 12 in. to 14 in. Leave at least /4 in. to lA in. of expansion room between sections of starter strip