Heat-Pump Basics

Heat-Pump Basics

A

ir-to-air heat pumps use pressurized Freon® gas to absorb heat from the air outside and transfer it to your home. When the thermostat calls for heating, Freon is pressurized, it condenses, and then it turns
is distributed through registers in the floors, walls, and ceiling. At the same time, a fan in the condenser sends cold air outside. You can reverse the cycle for cooling in the summer. (Ground-source heat pumps

to hot liquid. A blower forces air across warm Freon-
use a water/glycol mixture to exchange heat energy

filled coils and through a system of ducts; warm air

 

with the earth

 

Branch duct

 

Fan

 

Disconnect box

 

INDOOR UNIT

 

Trunk duct

 

Damper

 

Heat-Pump Basics

Coils

 

DAMPERS ADJUST AIRFLOW.

In a forced hot-air system, you sometimes can adjust the inline dampers to increase or decrease airflow to a specific part of the house. When the lever is in line with the duct, the damper is fully open. When the lever is perpen­dicular, it’s closed.

 

Freon

lines

 

Coils

 

Filter box

Blower

 

OUTDOOR COMPRESSOR

 

Heat-Pump BasicsHeat-Pump Basics

Q: The temperatures upstairs and downstairs are uneven; some rooms are colder or hotter than others. What’s causing this problem? Can it be fixed?

A: You’re likely describing an out-of­balance duct system. If a forced-air system isn’t ducted properly, the flow of supply and return air is unbalanced, resulting, for example, in a ground floor that doesn’t stay warm in heating season or a second floor that’s not sufficiently cooled in AC season. Sometimes it’s due to poor duct design; other times it occurs when air­conditioning is added to a heating system without re-evaluating and possibly resizing the ductwork.

If you have problems with individual rooms and you’ve made sure all the ducts are connected properly (believe me, I’ve seen my share of ducts to nowhere), you might be able to adjust the dampers and guide a little more (or less) air to those areas. Damp­ers are normally located within the first few feet of each branch, or takeoff, and are adjusted by turning an external lever. Gener­ally, when the lever is in line with the duct, the damper is fully open. Airflow also can be regulated somewhat at the register if it’s an adjustable model; however, that can create an objectionable noise as air rushes past the louvers.

While adjusting airflow this way could improve comfort, it doesn’t help the system to perform better. To do that, you need to call in a pro. A good HVAC contractor uses a nationally approved design program to size an entire duct system properly. Ask the contractor to show you how he or she does the design work, and ask ques­tions. The fix can range from a few sim­ple adjustments to installing a mini-split inverter heat pump in the affected areas to ripping out everything and starting over, costing from a couple of hundred dollars to several thousand.

Q: I hear a lot about tuning up furnaces, but how can I boost the efficiency of my heat pump?

A: Like furnaces and boilers, your heat pump should be serviced annually. Cleaning the coils and changing the filter can increase the heat pump’s efficiency by up to 10%. Heat pumps are rated in SEER for cooling efficiency and HSPF or COP for heating efficiency. (See "Say What?" on p. 124.)

The higher the numbers, the higher the efficiency and the lower the operating costs.

If your heat pump operates below 13 SEER and 6.5 HSPF (the current minimum stan­dards set by the federal government), you should plan to replace it. When you do, ask for a 410A refrigerant-based system (Carrier® calls it Puron®). The 410A-based systems are a bit more efficient and a bit more expensive, but the R-22 refrigerant currently in use is being phased out. As a result, it’s unlikely to be available when new equipment wears out.

With today’s fuel costs escalating, you might also want to consider a hybrid heat­ing system, wherein a fossil-fuel furnace is coupled with a high-efficiency heat pump, allowing you to choose whichever system is least expensive to operate at specific times.

Подпись:

Heat-Pump Basics

These setups often use automatic controls that seamlessly switch from one system to the other based on the internal programming.

Q: I keep hearing about "modulating’ technology in furnaces and boilers. What’s that?

A: Traditionally, heating equipment operates on one speed: Either it’s on, or it’s off. The minute a furnace or boiler fires up, it produces the same amount of Btu whether it’s trying to raise the temperature of a house 2°F or 20°F, and whether the air outside is -5°F or 50°F. But a number of new, high-efficiency stepped-input ("hi-lo fire") furnaces can operate at two levels: low input or high input, with a lower or higher fan speed.

Because the low-input level can be used when outdoor air temperatures are relatively moderate (roughly 70% of the heating sea­son for many of us), modulating equipment promises fuel savings of 30% or more. When the heat-demand load exceeds the "lo-fire" output, the furnace control steps on the gas to meet demand.

Modulation technology has been limited to boilers—until now. York International’s recently released Affinity 33 is the industry’s first truly modulating gas furnace that uses outdoor reset, which adjusts the system based on the air temperature outside, to determine how hard it needs to run to meet a home’s heat loss (from 35% to 100% in 1% increments). Both the burner and the blower modulate as a team to maximize Btu, and the manufacturer claims 98% thermal efficiency.

A furnace first.

The York® Affinity™ 33 is the industry’s first modulating gas furnace and boasts 98% efficiency (www. york. com).

Heat-Pump BasicsПодпись: High-grade your hydronics. Thermostatic radiator valves fine-tune hydronic heating systems by controlling temperatures in individual rooms. Set the dial to raise the temperature in one room and lower it in another (www.danfoss.com). Modulation is an almost universal feature found on high-efficiency condensing boil­ers. Here, too, you’ll find products that can achieve 98% thermal efficiency. Virtually all these high-efficiency products use out­door reset to achieve superior comfort and efficiency.

Q: We’re not ready to replace our heating equipment right now. What can we do to improve our comfort and reduce fuel bills?

A: If you’ ve performed the fixes I already mentioned and you’re still uncomfortable (or breaking open the piggy bank to meet fuel costs), you might consider fine-tuning your system with an auxiliary appliance.

One option is spot-treating one or more rooms with high-efficiency mini-split heat pumps. With efficiencies topping out at 26 SEER and 12 HSPF, these ultraquiet heat pumps give you the option of conditioning just the space you’re occupying while letting the rest of the home’s mechanical systems hibernate. They’re basically self-contained units with supply tubes for refrigerant running through the wall. The best ones use inverter (variable-speed) technology, allowing the units to sip only as much electricity as they need to maintain comfort.

If you have a hot-air system, adding hu­midification can increase comfort while let­ting you reduce the temperature by several degrees. You can plug in a freestanding unit or have a pro connect one to your furnace for $600 or more.

If you have a central system that’s not zoned, a motorized damper system can de­liver heat where you need it most. Multiple dampers can be daisy-chained so that several rooms operate as one zone. One caution: It’s important to have a good professional do this work.

If you have a hydronic system, you can fine-tune the zones with thermostatic ra­diator valves, which can be installed in every room except where the thermostat is located. Once you set the dial, the valves open or close automatically based on the room’s temperature. They’re a good solution in rooms that are chronically overheated or that are seldom used.

In an uncertain economy, investing in energy—that is, the energy you use in your own home—could be your wisest move.

Your ROI (return on investment) begins the second you start using the equipment and can well exceed anything the stock market can yield. You’ll add value to your largest in­vestment (your home), you’ll be more com­fortable, and you’ll get to keep more of your hard-earned money.

Heat-Pump Basics

Heat-Pump Basics

A damper with horsepower.

Motorized dampers allow for controlled airflow through ducts from remote locations and can create heating zones in a formerly one-zone house (www. aprilaire .com).

Q: What separates low-efficiency heating systems from high-efficiency models?

A: One difference is the way the unit is vented. A 78%-efficient furnace (or boiler) vents into a chimney and uses the home’s interior air for combustion. New 92%-efficient models are designed for sealed combustion. A direct venting setup draws outdoor combustion air.

Boiler Basics

 

Boilers heat water with gas, propane, oil, or electricity, and the water heats the home through a hydronic delivery system that can include baseboard fin-and-tube radiators, steam radiators, or in-floor radiant heating. When the thermostat fires the boiler, fuel burns in a combustion chamber, and warm water is pumped through a closed circuit of tub­ing. (Electric boilers have direct-immersion heating elements.) The water can get as warm as 180°F, depending on the system’s design. Because hot water expands, a pressure gauge and a relief valve prevent the system from failing due to excess water pressure. Combustion gases exit the house through a chimney or a direct-vent system.

 

Return

 

Chimney

 

Supply

 

Circulator

pump

 

Exhaust flue——-

 

Cleanout door 1

 

Aquastat

 

Oil filter

 

Combustion

chamber

 

Exhaust

 

Exhaust pipe

 

Fuel line

 

Drain

 

Oil burner

 

Combustion-air supply—————

 

12 i min.

 

Air

 

Boiler or furnace

 

Snow

 

Outside

wall

 

DIRECT VENTING

 

Heat-Pump Basics

Подпись: Q: My furnace still works, but my heating bills are sky-high. Should I think about getting a new one?Heat-Pump Basics

Chimney-vented heating equipment con­tinuously drafts heated air out of the house and strips away some of the Btu produced when the furnace is operating. There’s also a hidden energy cost: air infiltration. When­ever its burner fires, the chimney-vented unit draws in warm room air to support combustion—air that must be replaced by cold outside air drawn through cracks and gaps in the home’s shell. Eliminate that draw with a sealed-combustion model, and your fuel bills could fall by 30% or more.

Cost also separates the top performers from the rest. But the difference in price between 78%- and 95%-efficient gas-fired furnaces has narrowed considerably, to about $1,500 for the equipment and in­stallation costs. If your system burns oil, you have fewer choices, and the price gap is wider (about $4,000). But with ever-shifting oil prices, it’s easier to justify the extra expenditure.

A: Given today’s rapidly escalating fuel prices, you really can’t afford not to consider upgrading to a new high-efficiency furnace. Older furnaces were constructed with durability, not efficiency, in mind. Trimming 20% to 70% off your fuel bills is a realistic expectation when you upgrade to high – performance equipment.

Your existing furnace most likely has a 60% to 78% efficiency rating, which was once considered respectable. The current federally mandated minimum efficiency for furnaces is 80%, but there are models— hundreds of them—that operate above 92% and qualify for Energy Star rebates. There are even a few that can achieve 98% efficiency by using a feature called "outdoor reset," which modulates both the blower speed and the burner’s fuel input. As you might expect, the better the efficiency, the higher the up­
front costs. But with the rise in fuel prices and the anticipated 20- to 30-year life span of a furnace, the increased purchase price pales by comparison to the fuel costs saved over time.

Dave Yates owns and operates F. W. Behler Inc., a mechanical-contracting firm in York, Pa.

Wind Can be a Serious Problem

Подпись: Fig. 4.16: Fiere, graphically, are the basic ways that wind can affect a structure. Illustration courtesy of Simpson Strong-Tie Co., Inc.
image52

Подпись: 8"x8"Подпись:image53In certain areas of the country like the southern U. S. Gulf Coast, Hawaii, “Tornado Alley,” coastal Alaska, and other areas, code demands a more positive tie-down mechanism than the positioning pin and gravity technique that I employ in northern New York. Fortunately, several manufacturers make a variety of anchoring fasteners whose purpose is to tie the base of the posts to foundations. Three companies are listed in Appendix C. One of the leaders in the field is Simpson Strong-Tie Co., Inc. In their High-Wind-Resistant Construction Product Selection Guide (catalog C-HW02, November 1, 2002), on page 4, they say: “Newer building codes such as the International Building Code (IBC), the International Residential Code (IRC), and the Florida Building Code (FBC),

Подпись: different post bases, courtesy of Simpson Strong-Tie Co., Inc.Подпись: Fig. 4.17: Four Illustration Подпись: 2” minimum sidecover image56"have had a profound effect on the way wind design is performed/’ The same publication gives this concise overview of how strong winds affect buildings: During a thunderstorm, blizzard, hurricane, or tornado, the force of the wind on a house works in three ways:

1. As it flows over the roof the wind creates a strong lifting effect (uplift).

2. It exerts horizontal pressure which tries to overturn the structure.

3. If overturning is resisted, the wind pressure tries to slide the structure off of the foundation or to rack the walls.

Be extremely careful working around or under heavy timbers that have not yet been firmly tied to each other and diagonally braced to the ground, foundation, or floor. Avoid timber framing on windy days.

Tying Posts and Sills to the Foundation

While codes in areas of severe wind potential are concerned with all the structural components, up to and including tying roof trusses and rafters down to the

top plate, the first building require­ment will be to tie the posts to the foundation. Simpson makes a variety of post and column bases for the purpose, and some examples are shown in Fig. 4.17, reprinted by kind permission from Simpson. Other companies make similar products. Note that some of these post bases can be fastened to anchor bolts set in the concrete (or in grouted concrete block cores), while others involve embedding the lower part of the base into the concrete. With a poured slab or footing, these anchors will have to be installed accurately at the time of the pour. Make sure that you understand how the base works before you set it up in the concrete, and be careful that the part upon which the post rests is flush with the top of the
foundation or a tiny bit above it. An advantage of the fastener styles that make use of anchor bolts or pins is that the base-support piece is snugged up to the foundation by tightening a hex­headed nut. This system seems a little more forgiving of error.

Подпись: Fig. 4.18: Steve and Eileen Sugar's home in Hawaii makes use of a post-and-beam frame and mechanical fasteners. Подпись: Fig. 4.19: The girder is strapped to a concrete-filled column.image58While visiting Hawaii’s Big Island in 2003, I noticed that a lot of people make use of tie-down connectors from the foundation right through to the roof. The Simpson Strong-Tie folks call this a “continuous load transfer path.” Steve Sugar says that his building inspector is quite insistent on that, because Hawaii can bare the brunt of some pretty powerful winds. Steve and Eileen Sugar’s house, seen in Fig. 4.18, is built up on twenty or so four-by-four posts, each married to heavy concrete bases as shown in Fig. 4.1 at the beginning of the chapter. The metal fasteners were cast in place. The living area is all above the garage space, a protection in case of flooding (in a region of 200-plus inches (5.08 meters) of rain per year) or tsunami (tidal waves) that occasionally hit the coast.

On the other side of Hawaii, Terry, another owner-builder, also put his living space eight feet up, and for similar reasons. A self-reliant mango farmer, Terry used strong homemade metal fasteners to tie his main girders to the seven-foot pillars made from concrete-filled hollow-core chimney

blocks. These blocks, which come in 16- by іб-inch (and other) sizes, are very handy for building a deck up off of the ground. Filling the blocks with concrete and vertical rebar makes a strong pillar, and the U-shaped plate assembly can be set into the concrete of the last core. We see just the exposed part of this assembly in Fig. 4.19. Note, also, that the girder is tied to the main corner post column with a strong metal strap.

Подпись:We’ll return to Hawaii later to see how floor girders and roof rafters were fastened down to posts.

Specialty fasteners are also available for tying sill plates down to foundations, although regular anchor bolts, as already described, are very strong. In high-wind areas, your tie-down methods will have to agree with local code or the local code­enforcement officer, who may have some discretion. Although Timber Framing for the Rest of Us is concerned with post-and-beam framing, not conventional balloon framing, Fig. 4.20 may be of interest to show that fasteners are available for virtually every kind of wood-to-wood (or wood-to-masonry) situation.

Is Your Heating System an Energy Beast?

Is Your Heating System an Energy Beast?

■ BY DAVE YATES

The economy is down, fuel costs are up, and chances are that your heating budget is already busted. You need to do something—but what? Only a few of us are ready to invest in geothermal or solar. The rest of us need to find the answer in the heating system we already have.

For 70% of U. S. households, that sys­tem consists of a furnace that forces hot air through ducts; for 17%, it’s a heat pump; and for 11%, it’s a boiler that heats with water or steam radiators. The remaining 2% of homes use wood, coal, geothermal, solar, or other heating methods. When it comes to fuel, 58% of us use gas (either nat­ural or propane), about 35% use electricity, and almost 7% use fuel oil.

Your home might not have the most ef­ficient heating system available, but there’s good news: You can tune up your current system so that it performs better, keeps you more comfortable, and doesn’t put as big of a dent in your wallet. The following can help. Although the topics might seem simple, they’re useful in diagnosing deficien­cies. In fact, I usually end up fielding a lot

Is Your Heating System an Energy Beast?

of these questions from homeowners based on their observations of how their heating system is or isn’t working. Once you know where your system is falling down, it’s pos­sible to boost it (and its efficiency) back up.

Q&A

Q: I hear a whistling noise around the blower compartment of my furnace. What is causing the noise? Should I be concerned?

A: You’ re hearing air leakage. All air handlers (any device with a blower, including furnaces, heat pumps, and central air) have two ducts: one for supply, the other for return. I often find considerable air leakage at both connection points. If the blower is located in an unconditioned location (attic, crawlspace, or basement), it is bleeding out heat, or Btu, on the supply side while pulling in unconditioned air that must be warmed (or cooled and dehumidified) on the return side. This energy loss can add 10% or more to your heating and cooling bills.

You can fix these leaks by sealing the connection with sealant and/or top-grade mastic tape rated to withstand the area’s exposure. While you’re at it, check the air handler’s access door, another frequent

source of air leaks. Because the access door must be opened to service the equipment, you want to use only tape or magnetic strips to seal gaps. Other spots to seal include filter slots and openings for wiring. Last but not least, the accessible ductwork should be examined for leaks. Seal them with high – quality tape, mastic, or sealant that’s com­patible with the duct material and with ex­posure to surrounding air temperatures.

Is Your Heating System an Energy Beast?

Q: Streaks of dirt are visible around the ceiling registers in our house. What’s causing them?

A: Those streaks are tiny particles of soot blasted across the ceiling by air leaking from around a register that isn’t connected properly. Think of your ceiling as the inner layer of a sandwich. If you had X-ray vision, you’d see the duct boot resting on the attic side of the ceiling with the register below, sandwiching the ceiling between them.

If the boot isn’t firmly attached, you’re heating (or cooling) your attic—typically unconditioned space—which means your energy dollars are being lost to the great outdoors. The same goes for floor registers. In either case, the cure is the same: Remove the register, use a sealant to close the gaps between the boot and the ceiling (or floor), and add foam weatherstripping between the ceiling (or floor) and the register to prevent air leakage.

Is Your Heating System an Energy Beast?
Is Your Heating System an Energy Beast?Is Your Heating System an Energy Beast?Furnace Basics

Disconnect

switch

Filter box’

Gas shutoff

Подпись: Gas line

Blower’

Is Your Heating System an Energy Beast?

Q: Our local oil company is offering a $29.95 service special. It seems like a bargain, but does heating equipment need to be serviced every year?

A: Just as people should get an annual physical, all heating equipment should receive an annual checkup to maintain peak performance and to keep the home’s occupants safe. Part of the service is a test for proper combustion using an analyzer that provides CO (carbon monoxide), O2 (excess oxygen), and CO2 (carbon dioxide) levels, as well as net stack (exhaust) temperature. You should ask for a copy of this test, or combustion analysis.

While the internal surfaces of some gas appliances don’t need to be vacuumed (unlike oil units), regular maintenance is particularly important for newer high – efficiency models. Also, in all units, the chimney or venting should be inspected periodically to make sure it’s not obstructed. Dirty heat exchangers in oil burners rob efficiency, which results in increased fuel usage. A layer of soot just Vie in. thick reduces operating efficiency by 10%.

That said, it’s not physically possible to clean and tune up an oil-burning appliance properly for $29.95. Companies offering prices that low often pay technicians a flat rate for each call they make; the more they fit into a day, the more profitable it is for them—at your expense. I often see those fur­naces six to eight years later, when they’re malfunctioning. So accept the fact that if it sounds too good to be true, it probably is, and call in a professional technician you can trust at a believable price.

What Should I Expect from a Service Call?

• Preliminary combustion analysis • Chimney inspection • Top of boiler removed and com­bustion chamber cleaned • Soot vacuumed from all surfaces • Oil filter replaced • Oil-burner nozzle replaced • Reassembly; draft in flue and over burner checked; boiler operation tested

• Final combustion analysis

Is Your Heating System an Energy Beast?

Q: Our ductwork is located in the attic. There doesn’t seem to be as much warm air blowing from the registers as there used to be. Is that my imagination?

A: Ductwork that travels through unconditioned spaces (basements, crawlspaces, garages, and attics) needs to be well insulated. Uninsulated ducts waste gobs of energy and create drafts as chilled air spills out of ceiling registers; it’s hard to believe how noticeable this is until you’ve felt it firsthand. Newer codes require R-8 minimum insulation on ducts, but on older flex and duct-board systems, it can be as low as R-2.5. Before you consider more insulation, however, remember that insulation can hide the real problem: air

Is Your Heating System an Energy Beast?

Подпись: Duct wrap Is Your Heating System an Energy Beast?Подпись: Flexible duct insulation sleeve

Подпись: leakage. According to the Department of Energy, you could be losing 40% of the heat through duct leaks. A home-energy audit that includes a duct-pressure test can identify those leaks; sealing them Подпись: with mastic can result in substantial fuel savings. Once the leaks are sealed, add more insulation around the ducts, either blown- in, loose fill, fiberglass batt, or a duct wrap, as seen above.

Is Your Heating System an Energy Beast?Insulation helps, too. Once all ducts are air – sealed, use insulation to limit heat loss. Owens Corning makes insulated rigid ducts, insulated flexible duct wrap, and foil-faced insulation that can be used to wrap existing ducts (www. owenscorning. com).

Working with DWV Materials

As mentioned earlier, DWVstands for drainage, waste, and venting. ABS and PVC plastic pipe are by far the most common DWV materials, although cast-iron is still specified where sound suppression is important. Plastic pipe is strong, the most corrosion resistant of any DWV pipe; is easy to cut and assemble, using special solvent – based cements; is light enough for one person to handle; is reasonably priced; and is extremely slick inside, which ensures a good flow of wastes. It’s by far the favorite DWV material of amateur plumbers—and many pros. But there are few disadvantages. Many codes prohibit using plastic pipe on exteriors because of durability and UV degradation issues, and if you don’t spread the cement evenly or allow it to cure before stressing the joints, plastic can leak.

Cast iron is relatively corrosion resistant, though it will rust in time (decades); and its mass deadens the sound of running water. Though it’s heavy to work with, it is still specified by many professionals for high-end jobs, where codes allow pipes on building exteriors, and where codes require cast-iron in multistory buildings. Ever since no-hub couplings replaced lead and oakum, cast iron has been easier to connect, but it still takes skill and strength to cut cleanly and support adequately. Consequently, it’s rarely installed by amateur plumbers. Professionally

DWV Fitting Sampler

ELBOWS

TEES OR TEE FITTINGS

Подпись: Ell or 90image557Подпись: Vent ell Подпись: Long-sweep ellПодпись: 45° ell or 45Подпись: 22’/2-degree ellimage559Подпись:image560Подпись:image561image562"Подпись: Vent tee Подпись: Reducing tee Подпись:Подпись: Double tee or cross fittingПодпись: WYE FITTINGSПодпись: Wye fittingimage565Подпись: Double wye Подпись: POTPOURRI OF PARTSПодпись:image567Подпись:image568image569"Подпись: Trap adapter has a slip-nut coupling with a plastic washerПодпись:Подпись: Cleanout plugimage570Подпись: Closet flange, which glues to a closet bendПодпись: Coupling

The fittings shown are ABS plastic, but their shapes are essentially the same as those of copper and cast-iron DWV fittings of the same name. Drain fittings-such as the long-sweep ell, the combo and the sanitary tee-turn gradually so wastes can flow freely, without clogging. Whereas vent fittings have tighter turning radii because they carry only air. Finally, street fittings have one hubless end that fits directly into the hub of another fitting, which is useful when space is tight.

Подпись: DWV pipe supports. Clockwise from left:riser clamp (stack clamp), steel rigid pipe strap (U-clamp), ABS pipe strap hanger, and J-clamp (often used with all-thread rod). image573

Подпись: PRO"ГIP Have a friend help you set plastic DWV pipe. Although plastic is light, it is cumbersome. Once you've applied pipe cement, you have about 30 seconds to position the fittings before it sets. With two people working, one can hold a fitting while the other pushes the pipe and twists it one-quarter turn. 1111

installed cast-iron systems cost, on average,

30 percent to 50 percent more than plastic pipe installations.

Copper DWV pipe is installed mostly on jobs with bottomless budgets. Copper is lightweight, durable, and undeniably handsome. Because its walls are relatively thin, copper DWV pipe is sometimes specified where there are tight turns. However, copper costs two to three times as much as a plastic DWV installation, and it’s less corro­sion resistant. Compared to cast iron, copper’s thin walls don’t suppress sound nearly as well.

PLASTIC DWV PIPE

Cut ABS or PVC pipe with a plastic-pipe saw and a miter box, or with a wide-roll pipe cutter. If you use a cutter, gradually tighten its cutting wheel after each revolution. Whatever tool you use to cut the pipe, use a utility knife, a rounded file, or a deburring tool to clean off burrs before sanding the cut lightly with emery paper. Use a clean cloth to wipe off any grit.

Dry-fit the pipes and fittings before cementing them together. Dry-fitting allows you to deter­mine the exact direction you want the fitting to point, as well as the depth of the pipe’s seat in the fitting. Pipe cement sets so quickly that there’s no time to fine-tune fitting locations. Use a grease pencil or a builder’s crayon to draw alignment marks on the pipe and the fitting; a yellow or white grease pencil works well on black ABS pipe.

Here, two horizontal ABS lavatory drains meet at a figure-5 fitting, also called a double­combo. An ABS vent rises out the fitting’s top hub, while the drain hub connects to a cast – iron stack via a no-hub coupling. A riser clamp supports the bottom of the cast-iron pipe, and steel nail plates protect the ABS.

Подпись: Don't use ABS cement on PVC pipe or vice versa. Because solvent-based cements partially dissolve plastic to create a chemical weld, their chemistry is quite specific. Using an incorrect cement or joining PVC and ABS pipe is a code violation because it can lead to weak joints and leaks. llll Подпись: After dry-fitting DWV pipes and putting alignment marks on the pipes and fittings, disconnect them and apply solvent-based cement to the outside of pipes and the inside of fittings. Wear plastic gloves to protect your skin. Подпись: Insert cemented plastic pipes all the way into the fitting and give a quarter turn to spread the cement evenly. The yellow crayon lines are the alignment marks. image575

(See "Pipe Fitting,” on p. 273). Then take apart the dry-fit pieces and apply the cement.

Apply plastic-pipe primer to the outside of the pipe and to the inside of the fitting. Then, using the cement applicator, apply a generous amount of solvent-based cement to the outside of the pipe and the inside of the fitting hub. Immediately insert the pipe into the fitting so that it seats completely. Then turn the fitting (or the pipe) a quarter turn in one direction only—stop when the alignment marks meet. When you are finished, the joint should have an even bead of cement all around. Allow the joint to set completely before putting pressure on it.

One-coat, no-primer plastic-pipe cements are new to the market: They seem promising but as yet are unproven for the long haul. Research them carefully before you commit.

CAST IRON

To the inexperienced eye, all cast iron looks the same, but it’s not. If you lightly rap most cast iron with a rubberized tool handle, you’ll hear a muf­fled thud; old "light iron,” however, will reverber­ate somewhat, with a higher, tinny tone. If you suspect that you have light iron, which was widely installed in the northeastern United States till the 1940s, hire a plumber to assess and possibly cut it for you. If you try to cut light iron with a conventional snap cutter, the pipe may crush and collapse.

To cut into cast iron to extend a DWV system or replace a corroded fitting, rent a snap cutter. Many cast-iron joints are hubbed, in which a straight pipe end fits into the flared hub. But increasingly, sections of straight pipe are joined

A cast-iron snap cutter has beveled cutting wheels along the length of its chain.

 

image576

Gritting Materials

Grits usually consist of different types of aggregates, such as the following:

• Aggregate 2/5 (or 2/4) mm, cleaned and hot, applied at a rate of 1.0-2.0 kg/ m2, for SMA with a gradation of at least 0/11 mm (Figure 10.14)

• Aggregate 1/3 mm, washed and hot, applied at a rate of 0.5-1.5 kg/m2, for SMA with any gradation

• Aggregate 0.25/2 mm, washed and hot, coated with about 1% binder (m/m), applied at a rate of 0.5-1.5 kg/m2, for SMA with any gradation but preferred for SMA 0/5 and 0/8

Generally, the use of finer grains for gritting means a lower quantity per square meter. Additionally the smaller the maximum aggregate size of the SMA, the smaller the grit grains that should be used.

image105

FIGURE 10.14 Gritting particles among SMA coarse aggregates. (Photo courtesy of Krzysztof Blazejowski.)

Gritting with aggregate 2/5 (2/4) mm is not recommended for SMA in Germany because it brings about an increase in noise generated by the contact between tires and the gritted pavement, (Druschner and Schafer, 2000). However, Dutch research has not proved an increase in noise caused by the use of grit (Jacobs and Fafie, 2004).

Gritting with an aggregate coated with binder provides a durable bond between the grit and the hot SMA layer. Attention should be paid to preventing an overdose of grit to avoid its sticking to the drums of a roller and destroying the hot layer surface. An overdosing of grit uncoated with binder can produce a similar effect (Jacobs and Fafie, 2004).

It is worth knowing that in British guidance (HAUC 2009), the aggregates for gritting should have a PSV not less than 55, which is more than the PSV of coarse aggregates used in an SMA skeleton in many countries (e. g., Germany, Poland, Hungary).

Selection of Crash Cushions

Selection of the most appropriate crash cushion depends on site characteristics, perfor­mance of the systems, maintenance characteristics, and life-cycle cost. Both the geometrical conditions encountered and the space requirements for the different systems vary widely. Obstacles greater than 16 ft (5 m) wide can be shielded by systems such as arrays of sand-filled barrels, or the bullnose attenuator. Where space is limited, narrow systems are appropriate. The structural and safety characteristics of alternative systems must be carefully reviewed and matched with needs. Items to consider include impact deceleration, redirection capability, impact debris, and anchorage and backup require­ments. Table 6.10 has been prepared to compare the maintenance requirements of the different systems. Agency maintenance records should be used to establish associated costs. After potential systems have been identified for a given site, the final selection should be based on a life-cycle cost analysis. (See Chap. 10.) Costs to consider are the initial cost of the device, site preparation and installation costs, and maintenance costs, as well as the cost of accidents.

Fiber-Cement Siding

FIBER-CEMENT SIDING has been around a long time. The first house I worked on in the late 40s was cov­ered with fiber-cement siding. It was a bit brittle and not too attractive but just about indestructible. It fell out of favor because it was hard to work with and full of asbestos, while high – quality wood siding was inexpensive and becoming widely available.

Times have changed. Today, wood siding is expensive and often lacking in quality. Modern fiber-cement sid­ing, on the other hand, contains no asbestos and offers all of its old advantages and a few new ones, too. Like vinyl, it’s fairly easy to work with, thanks to the new cutting and nailing equipment available today. Unlike wood, it doesn’t cup, curl, rot, or attract termites. Unlike vinyl, it doesn’t burn, melt, expand, or contract.

Once you learn a few basic tech­niques, such as how to cut and nail it, fiber-cement siding is easy to install and goes on one plank at a time. The siding can be nailed directly to studs that have been covered with house – wrap. It can also be fastened to ver­tical furring strips or to exterior sheathing covered with housewrap. The manufacturers’ product and installation information is compre­hensive and extremely useful (see Resources on p. 278).

Fiber-cement clapboard siding comes in various widths that are usually 12 ft. long and Xr, in. thick. Both smooth and wood-grain tex­tures are available. For best results, order the siding pre-primed on both sides. After it has been delivered to the job site, keep it covered with a tarp whenever you’re not using it to minimize moisture absorption. Store the siding flat and level, too, so it doesn’t break or warp.

Cutting Tips

Fiber-cement siding can be cut with a regular circular saw and a convert-

Fiber-Cement Siding

INSTALLING THE SIDING. Fiber-cement panels can be installed over exterior sheathing or nailed against house – wrap or felt fastened to the framing.

tional carbide blade, but a diamond- tipped masonry blade with four to six teeth works much better and is prob­ably cheaper in the long run. The biggest problem with cutting fiber – cement with a power saw is that it creates a lot of dust. Be sure to wear a good dust mask and follow the manu­facturer’s recommendations to avoid unnecessary exposure to silica, which can damage your lungs.

I prefer to use a set of electric fiber-cement siding shears, a power tool designed specifically for this job (see Resources on p. 278). The shears cut cleanly, don’t create any dust, and can be used for both straight and curved cuts. For small holes, such as those for exterior electrical outlets, use a jigsaw with a carbide-tipped blade. Cut round holes for pipes with a carbide-tipped hole saw mounted in a heavy-duty, two-handled drill.

Corrosion-Resistant Fasteners

Most companies guarantee their fiber-cement siding for 50 years. Therefore, it will last a long time – provided it’s properly attached with high-quality, corrosion-resistant nails. I generally use regular 2-in.-long, hot-dipped galvanized nails. If I’m working near the ocean or in another area with high humidity, I often use stainless-steel nails.

Подпись:Подпись:Подпись:Подпись:Fiber-Cement Siding

Подпись: SOFFIT, SIDING, AND FRIEZE-BOARD DETAILS n u u r • ^ Roof truss Rough or sub-fascia Soffit

Подпись: FasciaПодпись:Подпись:Подпись:Fiber-Cement SidingПодпись:Подпись: Fiber-cement sidingПодпись:Подпись: 1У4-ІП.- or la/2-in.-thick stock is used for the outside corner.Fiber-Cement SidingПодпись: 1У2-ІП. square inside-corner trim pieceПодпись:For the most part, builders use pneumatic nailers to attach fiber- cement siding to walls. I’ve found that a regular pneumatic nailer works better than a roofing nailer (see Resources on p. 278). Make sure that the pressure is set correctly once you get started. Fiber-cement panels can be nailed by hand, but you may need to predrill the nail holes, especially near the ends of planks.

Trim Details

As with wood siding, trim for fiber- cement siding is usually installed first, and then the siding panels are butted against it. Fiber-cement trim is avail­able for inside and outside corners, doors, and windows, as well as for covering fascia boards and soffits.

The illustrations at right show a few of the trim details available. These same details also work for wood clap­boards and wood shingle siding. The trim should be fairly thick—either 5/4 (ЇЙ in. thick) or 2x—in order to stand proud and cover the ends of the siding.

At the outside corners, the siding can butt against the corner boards or be covered with aluminum corner pieces (called siding corners). These pieces have been used for many years as trim for wood siding and work just as well with fiber-cement siding. The siding is installed first and stopped exactly at the comer. After all the sid­ing is in place, the siding corners can be slipped under each course. A flange at the bottom of the corner hooks a row of siding and a 6d or 8d

Screened
vent

Frieze board

STARTER COURSE, CORNER,
AND NAILING DETAILS

Apply caulk where the siding butts against the trim.

galvanized nail is driven through a hole in the top to hold it in place.

Installing Siding Panels

The installation details for fiber-cement siding are similar to those for wood clapboards. The bottom-most course of siding rests on а 5/б-іп.-thick, 1%-in.- wide starter strip cut from the siding or from pressure-treated wood. The bot­tom edge of the first course should lap about 1 in. below the top of the foun­dation. To install subsequent courses, follow the manufacturer’s recommen­dations for overlapping and nailing.

After you know the amount of reveal the siding will have, you can establish the height of each course. For example, a typical lap on 8!4-in.-wide siding is 1 / in., which leaves a 7-in. reveal. As you work your way up the wall, this reveal can be adjusted slightly (up to lA in.) to maintain a uniform distance between the top of the wall and the uppermost siding course. To make sure the last course of siding will be uniform in width, measure down from the top of the wall frequently (every other course or so) and fine – tune the reveal, if necessary.

STEP4 Complete Ventilation and Electrical Work

Before you install the siding, soffits, and exte­rior trim, its important to resolve some venti­lation and electrical details. For example, this house has a rectangular attic vent centered beneath the ridge in each gable-end wall. If you chose to sheathe the gable-end truss on the ground, this is the logical place to cut the hole for the vent. If the hole hasn’t been cut yet, do so now, then install the vent (see the photo on the facing page).

Referring to your house plans, an electri­cian will be able to locate any outlet boxes that need to be installed in the exterior walls. Outdoor receptacles are placed at convenient locations; the same is true for outdoor lights.

This is also the time to cut the hole for the dryer vent. A standard dryer vent requires a 4-in. hole; it’s usually placed in the laundry room, at the back of the dryer near the floor. There are several ways to cut a vent hole. The easiest way is to use a 4-in.-dia. hole saw (bor­row one from the plumber, if possible). Otherwise, mark the vent location with a 4-in.-dia. circle, drill a %-in. hole along one edge, then cut out the circle with a keyhole saw, a jigsaw, or a reciprocating saw. Just make

158! closing IN

 

STEP4 Complete Ventilation and Electrical Work

INSTALL ТНЕ АПК VENT. Vinyl siding panels can’t be installed until the vents, outlet boxes, and other wall elements are in place. This vent has flanges for easy installation.

sure you are above the bottom plate and base­board and away from the end stud. There shouldn’t be any electrical wires down this low, but check to make sure. Insert the vent pipe through the wall, then attach the vinyl trim cover.

Be sure to seal around the vent on both the inside and the outside to keep cold air and moisture from entering the house. Vent pipes can become plugged with lint after years of use. I unplug ours by cleaning out the pipe with a broom handle and then using the vacuum cleaner.

STEP5 Install the Starter I Strips and the Trim for I Vinyl Siding

The most important thing to keep in mind as you’re installing vinyl siding is that it expands and contracts significantly with temperature changes. All siding components and installa­tion details are designed to cope with this temperature-induced movement. Review the installation information shown in the illustra­tion at right and discussed throughout this chapter. Make sure you comply with the

І

STEP4 Complete Ventilation and Electrical Work

Подпись: UndersiLL trim Подпись: Outside corner Подпись: CUTTING BACK NAILING FLANGES ON VINYL SIDINGSTEP4 Complete Ventilation and Electrical WorkПодпись:Подпись:Подпись: At least 1 in.Подпись: Overlap at least 1 in.Подпись: SidingSTEP4 Complete Ventilation and Electrical WorkПодпись:Подпись: INSTALLING J-CHANNEL AROUND DOORS AND WINDOWSSTEP4 Complete Ventilation and Electrical WorkПодпись:Подпись:STEP4 Complete Ventilation and Electrical WorkПодпись: J-channel is nailed around the top and sides of doors and windows to receive siding panels. The top J-channel can be cut square or mitered to fit into the side channels. Use undersill trim at the bottom of windows. manufacturer s instructions that come with

STEP4 Complete Ventilation and Electrical Work

Characteristics of Crash Cushions

Crash cushions are impact attenuators developed to prevent errant vehicles from impacting fixed obstacles. The crash cushion should either decelerate the vehicle to a safe stop, such as in a head-on hit, or redirect it safely away from the obstacle, in the case of a side hit. Crash cushions are typically used where fixed objects cannot be removed, relocated, converted to a breakaway design, or shielded by a longitudinal barrier. Examples of application sites include exit ramp gores where a bridge rail end or bridge pier presents a hazard, and the ends of longitudinal barriers. Most crash cushions are patented systems developed and tested by the manufacturer, who can also provide design charts for selection of appropriate designs.

Most crash cushions perform their function by the principle of kinetic energy absorption or transfer of momentum. In the first case, energy is absorbed by materials or devices that crush or plastically deform, or by hydraulic devices. A rigid backup support is required for such compression crash cushions. In the second case, the momentum of the vehicle is transferred to an expendable mass, such as containers filled with sand. No rigid backup support is needed for such “inertial” barriers. Some crash cushions use a combination of these principles.

Table 6.9 provides a list of some of the most common crash cushions in use today, and their applicable test levels. A description of these systems follows.

The Advanced Dynamic Impact Extension Module (ADIEMII) is a proprietary terminal designed to shield the end of a concrete safety-shape barrier. It consists of a 30 ft-long (9.1-m) carrier beam or concrete base structure onto which 10 interlocking perlite con­crete crushable modules are mounted. Energy is dissipated by crushing the modules. Perlite is an expanded inert mineral that, when substituted for coarse aggregate in a concrete mix, results in an extremely lightweight and crushable material. Strength lev­els in the perlite concrete are closely controlled to ensure that it falls within acceptable levels compatible with acceptable vehicle deceleration limits.

The Brakemaster 350 is a proprietary design used primarily as a terminal for W-beam median barriers or as a crash cushion to shield narrow obstacles. If used to terminate a concrete median barrier, a suitable transition is required between the device and the con­crete. It may also be used to shield the end of a roadside barrier but may not be cost – effective. The manufacturer recommends use in low-frequency impact areas. This terminal consists of an anchor assembly with posts embedded in the ground, a cable/brake assembly, and W-beam panels supported by steel diaphragms that slide backward in end-on hits. When impacted end-on, the W-beam panels telescope and the cable/brake assembly absorbs most of the energy through frictional resistance. The anchor assembly also provides sufficient anchorage to redirect side-impacting vehicles. A paved instal­lation pad is not required.

The Crash Cushion Attenuating Terminal (CAT) is a proprietary, nonflared attenuator commonly used to terminate W-beam median barriers and as a crash cushion to shield narrow fixed objects. A transition design is required for the latter case. It is sometimes used to shield a W-beam roadside barrier, but in that case, a cable anchor is required at the downstream. The CAT can redirect vehicles striking its face from one side or both

TABLE 6.9 Crashworthy Crash Cushions

System

NCHRP Report 350 test level

System width, ft (m)

System length, ft (m)

Advanced Dynamic

TL-3

2.3 (0.7)

30 (9.1)

Impact Extension Module (ADIEM II)*

Brakemaster 350*

TL-3

2.1 (0.64)

31.5 (9.6)

Crash Cushion

TL-3

2.3 (0.7)

31 (9.5)

Attenuating Terminal (CAT)*

Bullnose guardrail system

TL-3

14.8 (4.5)

65 (20)

ABSORB 350*

TL-2

2 (0.6)

17 (5.2)

TL-3

2 (0.6)

32 (9.7)

TL-3

2 (0.6)

27 (8.3)

QuadGuard family* QuadGuard

Three-bay unit

TL-2

2 (0.6)

13 (4.0)

Six-bay unit

TL-3

2.5 (0.76)

22 (6.74)

QuadGuard Wide

Three-bay unit

TL-2

Up to 7.5 (2.29)

13 (4.0)

Six-bay unit

TL-3

Up to 7.5 (2.29)

22 (6.74)

QuadGuard LMC

11-bay unit

TL-3

4 (1.2), 5.7 (1.75), or 7.5 (2.29)

33.33 (10.16)

QuadGuard Elite

Seven-bay unit

TL-2

2-7.5 (0.6-2.29)

23.8 (7.26)

Nine-bay unit

TL-3

2-7.5 (0.6-2.29)

35.5 (10.82)

Trinity Attenuating Crash Cushion (TRACC)*

TL-3

2.6 (0.8)

21 (6.4) plus 2 (0.6) backup

Reusable Energy-Absorbing Crash Terminal (REACT 350)*

Four-cylinder array

TL-2

3 (0.9)

13.1 (4.0)

Nine-cylinder array

TL-3

3 (0.9)

30.7 (9.35)

Narrow Connecticut impact

TL-3

3 (0.9)

24 (7.3)

attenuation system (NCIAS)

Sand-filled plastic barrels (two-column array)

Fitch*

TL-3

6.6 (2.0)

Varies

Energite*

TL-3

6.6 (2.0)

Varies

TrafFix*

TL-3

6.6 (2.0)

Varies

Gravel bed attenuator

N/Af

N/A

N/A

Dragnet*

N/A

N/A

N/A

Water Twister Vehicle

N/A

N/A

N/A

Arresting System (VAS)*

*Proprietary system. fN/A = not applicable.

Source: From Roadside Design Guide, AASHTO, Washington, D. C., 2002 and 2006, with permission.

sides. The CAT functions as a three-stage system, utilizing energy-absorbing beam elements, breakaway wood posts, and a cable anchorage system. The beam element is a slotted W-beam that telescopes during impact. Shearing of the steel rail between the slots dissipates energy.

The bullnose guardrail system provides a nonproprietary means for shielding an object in the median of a divided highway by constructing a thrie-beam guardrail envelope around the end. Several such designs using W-beam guardrails have been constructed by highway agencies in the past, but these did not meet the criteria of NCHRP Report 350. However, a design that has met TL-3 consists of slotted thrie – beam panels mounted on breakaway posts near the nose, followed by standard thrie-beam posts and blocks toward the back of the system. Rail tension is developed through cable anchors and struts. A set of steel retention cables is mounted on the back of the thrie-beam nose to contain vehicles in the event of rail fracture. The leading edge of the bullnose attenuator should be located a minimum distance of 62 ft (19 m) in advance of the shielded object.

The ABSORB 350 is a proprietary, nonredirective, crash cushion primarily designed to shield the ends of the Quickchange® median barrier. This is a narrow cushion that may also be used to shield ends of concrete barriers or narrow fixed objects. The system is comprised of multiple, water-filled, energy-absorbing elements; a nosepiece assembly; and a transition/attachment assembly. Three length configura­tions are available.

QuadGuard refers to a family of proprietary devices with similar design and per­formance characteristics. The design consists of several types of energy-absorbing cartridges supported by a framework of steel diaphragms and corrugated steel fender panels. A concrete pad and rigid backup are required. Crash energy is dissipated by telescoping rearward and crushing the cartridges. The devices meet TL-2 or TL-3, as indicated in Table 6.9. Many parts of the various systems are interchangeable. The standard QuadGuard is a bidirectional device used as an end treatment for a concrete barrier or narrow fixed object. The cartridges must be replaced after an impact. The QuadGuard Wide is similar but can be used to shield wider objects. The QuadGuard LMC (Low-Maintenance Cartridge) is a self-restoring, bidirectional end treatment used at locations where a moderately high frequency of impacts is anticipated. It can be used to shield rigid barriers or fixed objects and is available in two widths. Energy­absorbing components are elastomeric cylinders that are reusable after most design impacts. The QuadGuard Elite is a self-restoring, bidirectional end treatment for loca­tions with high-impact frequency. It can be used to shield rigid barriers or fixed objects and is available in two widths. The energy-absorbing components are high – density polyethylene cylinders that are reusable after most design impacts.

The Trinity Attenuating Crash Cushion (TRACC) is a proprietary system. Components include a pair of guidance tracks, an impact “sled,” intermediate steel frames, and W-beam fender panels. A concrete pad and rigid backup are required. The sled, or impact face, contains a hardened steel blade that absorbs energy by cutting metal plates on the sides of the guidance tracks as it is forced backward. The interme­diate frames that support the fender panels are free to slide backward on an end impact, but lock onto the guidance tracks on a side impact to redirect the vehicle.

The Reusable Energy-Absorbing Crash Terminal (REACT 350) is a proprietary system comprising single row of 0.9-m-diameter (3-ft), high-density, polyethylene cylinders atop steel skid rails; a restraining cable system consisting of two heavy steel wire rope assemblies along each side; a front and rear anchorage system; transition hardware; and a backup assembly. A nine-cylinder array meets TL-3 and a four-cylinder design meets TL-2. The system may be used on either a concrete or an asphalt surface if properly anchored. The polyethylene cylinders absorb energy as they slide rearward on the steel railing, and are self-restoring in many cases. The steel cables redirect vehicles in side impacts. A wider REACT that can be used to shield fixed objects up to 5 ft (1.5 m) was tested successfully to TL-3. This design consists of two parallel columns of 2-ft-diameter (0.6-m) cylinders attached to steel diaphragms mounted on an anchored monorail, which provides redirection for side impacts.

The narrow Connecticut impact attenuation system (NCIAS) is a nonproprietary, bidirectional crash cushion that consists of eight steel cylinders in a single row with two anchored wire tension cables along each side. The cylinders, which are 3 ft (0.9 m) in diameter and 4 ft (1.2 m) high, crush to absorb energy. The tension cables keep the cylinders in place and provide redirection for side impacts. The last four cylinders are reinforced with pipe stiffeners and retainers to help redirect vehicles hitting close to the rear. The NCIAS is recommended for use where shielding of narrow objects is needed and reverse-direction impacts are unlikely.

Sand-filled plastic barrels, sometimes called inertial crash cushions or inertial barriers, are used in both temporary and permanent installations to shield the ends of longitudinal barriers or other fixed objects. The sand-filled barrels dissipate energy by transferring vehicle momentum to the variable masses of sand in the barrels that are hit. Standard module masses vary from 200 to 2100 lb (90 to 960 kg). A backup struc­ture or wall is not required because the force that a vehicle exerts on the individual modules is not transmitted through the cushion. Manufacturers have developed stan­dard arrays that can be used for specific types of fixed objects as well as design charts to analyze layouts. The barrels should be set as far from the traveled way as possible to minimize hits. However, the width of the last row should always be greater than the width of the shielded object. Moisture content of the loose sand should be 3 percent or less and clean sand should be used to minimize caking. A significant variation in the density of the sand could affect performance. Frozen sand reduces safety performance but mixing rock salt (5 to 25 percent by volume, depending on climate) with the sand generally prevents wet sand from freezing. The use of sacked sand to facilitate cleanup is not acceptable.

The gravel-bed attenuator provides a means to decelerate large trucks. Basically, the truck is slowed as the wheels move through a bed of gravel. It is typically used on truck escape ramps along descending highway grades where runaway vehicles present a problem. Crash cushions previously discussed are designed to stop or redirect passenger cars and pick­up trucks. They are not applicable to large vehicles, because considerable space is required to dissipate the energy. Detailed design guidelines for the gravel-bed attenuator are provided in the AASHTO publication A Policy on Geometric Design of Highways and Streets.

The Dragnet or chain-link fence vehicle attenuator is a proprietary device consist­ing of anchor posts, energy-absorbing reels of steel tape, and a net assembly to catch the vehicle. When impacted, the chain-link fence wraps around the front of the impacting vehicle and energy is absorbed as the metal tape is pulled through a series of rollers. The system may be repaired by replacing the steel tape in the casings and resetting the chain-link fence and cable. The Dragnet may be considered for locations where impacts are expected to be head-on and the results of vehicle penetration are severe, such as for temporary road and ramp closures, or in conjunction with a longi­tudinal barrier to shield the opening between twin bridges. It is designed to stop a 4500-lb (2000-kg) passenger car impacting head-on at 60 mi/h (100 km/h). It has also been used in series to stop large vehicles where space will not accommodate a gravel bed attenuator. Such a system safely stopped at 50,000-lb (22,700-kg) tractor-trailer impacting at 90° and 50 mi/h (80 km/h). Since the Dragnet deflects significantly, it can be used effectively only at locations where a sufficient clear area exists behind it. Because of the low deceleration rates resulting, very little damage is done to impacting vehicles and serious injuries to vehicle occupants are unlikely.

System

Regular maintenance

Crash repair

Material storage

ADIEM II*

Can be inspected on a drive-by.

Damaged concrete modules must be replaced. Damaged covers should also be replaced. Most other parts are normally reusable.

Replacement concrete modules, covers, and other parts per the manufacturer’s recommendation.

Brakemaster*

Can be inspected on a drive-by. Should be inspected on-site periodically.

Most aboveground components can be damaged and need replacement.

Braking mechanisms, fender panels, diaphragms, etc., per manufacturer’s recommendations.

CAT*

Can be inspected on a drive-by, except for cable tension which should be checked periodically.

Nose, rail elements, and wood posts must be replaced. Foundation tubes are normally reusable.

Rail elements and wood posts.

Bullnose

guardrail

system

Can be inspected on a drive-by. Cable tension should be checked periodically.

Rail elements and posts must be replaced. Cables and foundation tubes are normally reusable.

Slotted thrie-beam rail elements and wood posts.

ABSORB

350*

Can normally be inspected on a drive-by. Periodic on-site inspections should be performed to be certain that all parts are properly connected.

Nosepiece and damaged energy-absorbing elements must be replaced.

Replacement nosepiece, energy-absorbing elements, and fluid supply. Other parts per manufacturer’s recommendation.

QuadGuard*

Can normally be inspected on a drive-by; missing or displaced cartridges can be readily noted. Should be periodically inspected on-site to be certain that all parts are properly connected.

Nose, expended cartridges, and damaged fender panels must be replaced. Unit must be repositioned.

Spare cartridges, nose units, fender panels, and other parts per manufacturer’s recommendation.

QuadGuard LMC and Elite*

Can normally be inspected on a drive-by. Periodic on-site inspections should be performed to be certain that all parts are properly connected.

Most of unit is reusable after a crash. Unit must be repositioned.

Fender panels and other replacement parts per manufacturer’s recommendation.

530

The Water Twister Vehicle Arresting System (VAS) is a proprietary system consisting of a chain-link restraining net connected to two energy-absorbing base units by nylon straps. As an impacting vehicle displaces the net, the straps turn shafts connected to turbine rotors inside the base units, which contain a water/ethylene glycol solution. Rotation of the turbine blades in the fluid dissipates energy. The base units are of sub­stantial size and may require shielding.

BARRIER END TREATMENTS AND CRASH CUSHIONS

Barrier terminals and crash cushions are developed to gradually decelerate an impact­ing vehicle to a stop or to suitably redirect it. Otherwise, untreated ends of barriers and fixed objects can cause severe accidents. A crashworthy end treatment is essential if a barrier terminates within the clear zone or other area where it is likely to be hit by an errant vehicle. Requirements for testing and performance are contained in NCHRP 350. Suitable devices must be able to perform under both head-on and side impacts, with no objects penetrating the passenger compartment or encroaching on other traffic. The vehicle should remain upright and not be redirected into adjacent traffic lanes. Occupant deceleration levels must be within target values. For longitudi­nal barriers that depend on the tensile strength of the elements, the end treatment must

6.12.1 Characteristics of End Treatments

Many types of end treatments are available. Table 6.8 provides a summary of charac­teristics and test levels for a number of them. A description follows. As indicated, many of the systems are proprietary.

The three-strand cable terminal is used at the ends of a three-cable barrier. In one version, the cable barrier is flared back at 4 ft (1.2 m) from the tangent barrier line. The three cable strands are turned down at 45° and anchored to a concrete block in the ground.

TABLE 6.8 Crashworthy End Treatments

System

NCHRP Report 350 test level

System width, ft (m)

System length, ft (m)

Three-strand

TL-3

40 (1.2) flare

N/A*

cable terminal

Wyoming Box Beam

TL-3

2 (0.6)

50 (15.2)

End Terminal (WYBET-350)

Barrier anchored

TL-3

N/A

N/A

in backslope

Eccentric loader

TL-3

1.6 (0.5) plus

37.5 (11.4)

terminal (ELT) Slotted Rail Terminal

TL-3

4 (1.2) flare 1.6 (0.5) plus

37.5 (11.4)

(SRT-350)f

REGENTf

TL-3

4 (1.2) flare or

1.6 (0.5) plus 3 (0.9) flare

1.6 (0.5) plus

37.5 (11.4)

Vermont low-speed,

TL-2

4.3 (1.3) flare 4.9 (1.5)

11.15 (3.4)

W-beam guardrail end terminal

Flared Energy-Absorbing

TL-2

1.6 (0.5) plus

25 (7.62)

Terminal (FLEAT)f

TL-3

1.7-2.7 (0.51-0.81) flare 1.6 (0.5) plus

37.5 (11.4)

Beam-Eating Steel

TL-3

2.5-4 (0.76-1.2) flare 1.6 (0.5)

37.5 (11.4)

Terminal (BEST)f Extruder Terminal

TL-3

1.6 (0.5)

or 50 (15.2) 37.5 (11.4)

(ET-2000)f Sequential Kinking

TL-3

1.6 (0.5)

or 50 (15.2) 50 (15.2)

Terminal (SKT-350)f

QuadTrend-350f

TL-3

1.5 (0.46)

20 (6.1)

NEATf

TL-2

1.9 (0.57)

9.7 (2.957)

Sloped concrete

N/A

2 (0.6)

20-40(6-12)

end treatment

The Wyoming Box Beam End Treatment (WYBET-350) is used with the box-beam barrier. It consists of a nosepiece welded to a box beam, which is inserted into a larger tube that contains a crushable fiberglass composite tube. The device is supported by a wood post. Crushing of the composite tube dissipates the energy. It may be installed parallel to the roadway or flared out at a maximum rate of 1:10.

A barrier anchored in backslope is sometimes used in areas of a roadway cut sec­tion, or where the road is transitioning from cut to fill. A W-beam guardrail thus anchored has been successfully crash-tested to TL-3. This type of anchor can provide full shielding, eliminate the possibility of an end-on impact with the barrier terminal, and minimize the likelihood of the vehicle passing behind the rail. According to the AASHTO Roadside Design Guide, key design considerations include the following:

(1) maintaining a uniform rail height relative to the roadway grade until the barrier

crosses the ditch flow line, (2) using a flare rate within the clear zone that is appropriate for the design speed, (3) adding a rubrail for W-beam guardrail installations, and (4) using an anchor that is capable of developing the full tensile strength of the W-beam rail. Also, the foreslopes on the approach should be no greater than 1:4. If a barrier cannot be termi­nated in a backslope without violating any of these principles, a different type of end treatment may be more appropriate.

The eccentric loader terminal (ELT) evolved from efforts to improve the break­away cable terminal (BCT). The resulting device has a fabricated steel lever nose inside a section of corrugated steel pipe. A strut between the steel tube foundations for the two end posts enables these posts to act together to resist impact loads. Holes are drilled in the next four posts, one hole at ground line and one below ground, to make them break away. A blockout is added to the second post to increase curvature near the end of the rail, thus reducing rail column strength and reducing the likelihood of rail penetration. The end post is offset 4 ft (1.2 m).

The Slotted Rail Terminal (SRT-350) is a proprietary, flared, non-energy-absorbing terminal, designed to break away when impacted end-on. There are two versions, one with an offset of 4 ft (1.2 m) and another with an offset of 3 ft (0.9 m). They consist of a curved W-beam rail element in which longitudinal slots have been cut at specific loca­tions. This reduces dynamic buckling strength to an acceptable level and controls buck­ling location, so that the yaw of an impacting vehicle and the potential for secondary impacts with the bent rail are minimized. Rail tension is developed through a cable anchor system. A traversable area must be provided behind the terminal since it is designed to break away when impacted, allowing the vehicle to travel behind the guardrail.

The REGENT is a proprietary energy-absorbing end treatment. It is a flared W-beam terminal that consists of a slider head assembly, a cable anchor/strut and yoke assembly, modified W-beam rail panels, and special weakened wood posts. The post offsets cor­respond to those of the BCT, except that the REGENT uses more posts to minimize deflection and the posts are of unique design. The modified rail elements are partially crushed at two locations to induce predictable kinks in the rail in end-on hits while maintaining most of the rail’s bending strength. A traversable area must be provided behind the terminal since it is designed to break away when impacted, allowing the vehicle to travel behind the guardrail.

The Vermont low-speed, W-beam guardrail end terminal is a nonproprietary end treatment for use on roadways where impact speeds do not exceed 45 mi/h (70 km/h). It consists of a 12.5-ft (3.8-m) W-beam rail section that is shop-bent to a 16-ft (4.9-m) radius and mounted on W6 X 9 W150 X 14 steel posts with steel blocks. An anchor consisting of a steel rod and buried concrete block is attached to the rail at the third post from the end.

The Flared Energy-Absorbing Terminal (FLEAT) is a proprietary energy-absorbing end treatment that consists of an impact head installed at the end of a modified W-beam rail, a guide tube assembly, a breakaway cable anchor assembly, and a series of weakened posts. The posts may be wood or of a welded-steel breakaway design. The kinetic energy of a crash is absorbed by the head sliding along the rail element while bending it. The flattened rail exits the head on the traffic side and coils into a tight loop. Tension in the rail is developed through the cable anchor system. The terminal has been tested successfully to TL-3 and TL-2, with a total length of 37.5 ft (11.4 m) and to 25 ft (7.62 m), respectively. The TL-3 terminal can be installed with an offset from 2.5 to 4 ft (0.76 to 1.2 m), and the TL-2 terminal with an offset from 1.7 to 2.7 ft (0.51 to 0.81 m). A traversable area must be provided behind the terminal since it is designed to break away when impacted, allowing the vehicle to travel behind the guardrail.

The Beam-Eating Steel Terminal (BEST) is a proprietary energy-absorbing end treatment with an impact head mounted on the end of a wood post W-beam guardrail system. Kinetic energy is absorbed by the head, which contains three teeth that slide along the rail and cut it into four relatively flat widths. These widths are subsequently bent out of the path of the impacting vehicle. A cable provides anchorage for down­stream impacts, and a quick release attachment allows the W-beam to feed into the impact head during end-on impacts. No flare is required, but to position the impact head entirely outside the shoulder, a 1:50 flare may be desirable.

The Extruder Terminal (ET-2000) is a proprietary energy-absorbing end treatment, with an extruder head installed over the end of a standard W-beam guardrail element. Kinetic energy is absorbed by the head sliding along the rail element while flattening it and bending it away from the traffic. The extruder head includes a squeezing section and a bending section. The W-beam is fed through the squeezing section, which reshapes the rail into a flat section. Next, the bending section bends the rail around a small radius and directs it to the side, away from the vehicle. A cable provides anchorage for downstream impacts, and a quick release attachment allows the W-beam to feed into the impact head during end-on impacts. No flare is required, but to position the impact head entirely out­side the shoulder, a 1:50 flare may be desirable. Either breakaway timber posts or hinged breakaway steel posts may be used with this terminal.

The Sequential Kinking Terminal (SKT-350) is a proprietary energy-absorbing end treat­ment that consists of an impact head mounted over the end of a modified W-beam guardrail. The modification consists of punching three slots in the valley of the rail at specific locations. The impact head is forced rearward, bending the W-beam rail against the deflector plate, and absorbing the kinetic energy. A “kinker” beam in the head causes short segments of the rail to kink sequentially and bend away from the impacting vehicle. A cable anchorage system is provided to develop the tensile strength of the rail. No flare is required, but some offset is recommended to locate the edge of the impact head farther from the traveled way. Either breakaway timber posts or hinged break­away steel posts may be used with this terminal.

The QuadTrend-350 is a proprietary unidirectional end treatment for direct attachment to a vertical concrete barrier or vertical concrete bridge parapet. Additional transition guardrail sections are not needed. It employs sand-filled, energy-absorbing containers that are sacrificial and must be replaced following impact. Many of the other parts can be reused. A concrete pad is required.

The Narrow Energy-Absorbing Terminal (NEAT) is a proprietary, narrow, nonredirec­tive, energy-absorbing terminal. The NEAT is an aluminum cartridge, designed to shield the approach end of a portable concrete safety-shape barrier or a Quickchange® moveable barrier system.

A sloped concrete end treatment is sometimes used to terminate a concrete barrier, although this end tapering treatment has not met the crash-testing criteria of NCHRP

Report 350. This treatment should only be considered for locations where traffic speeds are low, 40 mi/h (60 km/h) or less, and limited space precludes the use of a tested end treatment. Other possible applications include locations where the barrier is flared out beyond the clear zone or where end-on impacts are not likely to occur. Recommended length of the taper is 20 ft (6 m) with 30 to 40 ft (9 to 12m) desirable. The height of the end of the taper should be no greater than 4 in (100 mm).