Development of the Roman Orient

During the last years of the Republic, Greece, Anatolia, Syria-Palestine, Egypt, and Cyrenaica had become Roman. This process began with the bequeathing of Pergamon to the Roman Republic, and was marked by Augustus’ taking possession of Egypt in 31 BC, and continuing through the tumult of the many wars during the last years of the Republic. There is not much to say of Greece, for she was knocked flat by wars and never got back on her feet economically. The reader may recall the development works at lake Copais undertaken in the Mycenaean era (Figure 4.10), and somewhat restored by Alexander the Great. Several sources mention that during the Roman period the lake’s dikes are no longer maintained, that the adjacent cities are subject to flooding, and that the best land must be abandoned.[273]

Other lands of the Orient fare differently. Trajan reaches the Persian Gulf in 116 AD after having conquered the Parthians, but in the end Rome is able to hold onto only the extreme northwest of Mesopotamia. Thereafter, the Orient provides Rome with emper­ors: Septimus Severus marries the daughter of the sun-god priest at Homs (Emesa), and his son Caracalla is therefore half Syrian. His successors, Elagabal and Severus Alexander, from the maternal side of Caracalla’s family, are entirely Syrian. In the mid­dle of the 3rd century AD, when the Empire is threatened along all of its borders, the Sassanide Persians reach Antioch and, to add to the humiliation, take the Emperor Valerius and all of his army as prisoners, in 260 AD. At Palmyra, queen Zenobia seizes the opportunity to launch offensive military expeditions, taking Alexandria in 270 AD. But in 272 AD the new Emperor Aurelius retakes control of all of the Roman Orient, and it remains peaceful for an extended period. Diocletius begins to create an autonomous Roman Orient, in dividing political power among four emperors and establishes his own capital at Nicomedia, near Byzantium. In 330 AD the Emperor Constantine takes per­sonal control of all of the Empire, but especially favors the Orient and transforms the Greek city Byzantium into Constantinople, the new capital of the Orient. When Rome falls in 410 AD, the Roman Orient remains standing.

Egypt is arguably the least Roman of the lands of the Empire, and it retains its iden­tity under Roman domination. Its governance continues under the Ptolemaic tradition, though the peasants are under increasingly oppressive fiscal pressure. Over and above direct taxation, they must meet a number of other obligations. Just as in the Ptolemite period (and also probably in the Pharaonic era), they are obliged to work on maintenance of the dikes.[274] During the time of the Pharaohs, Egypt had only to feed herself. But under the Ptolemites, she must in addition produce the surpluses necessary for the grand political ambitions of her leaders. Then under the Romans, Egypt must also feed the great cities of the Empire (and the city of Rome first and foremost), a heavy burden shared with only a few other provinces such as Numid.

In response to these needs, the Egyptians further develop the Fayoum irrigation sys­tem – dropping the lake level down to its present level to reclaim additional land, and cleaning out the canals. Moreover, they maintain the qanats that had been constructed by the Persians in the Kharga oasis and even build new ones. The small oases of Dakhla, Farafra, and Baharya to the north of Kharga appear to have flourished during the Roman period, and this success is likely attributable to the qanats built by the Romans.[275] According to Henri Goblot, it is indeed in Egypt that the Romans learned how to build these very special devices.

The city of Alexandria continues to be a great intellectual center under the Romans, as we have seen in Chapter 5. Alexandria is a cosmopolitan city with a population of some half million,[276] and it is in a state of constant turbulence. It is said that Carcalla, the son of Septimus Severus, had the sword taken to all the young people of the city in the spring of 215 AD after they had publicly criticized him.

Some fifteen Roman dams are found in the Orient – in Anatolia, Syria-Palestine and in the northwest of Mesopotamia. Other hydraulic works are to be built by the Byzantines after the fall the Occidental Roman Empire. The structure thought to be the oldest has a very specific purpose. It is 16 m high and 60 m long (but only 5 m wide, and therefore of precarious stability), and was built in 80 AD to divert floodwaters and protect the port of Antioch on the Orontes.[277] Antioch is the ancient capital of the Seleucids and an opulent capital of the Roman province of Syria.

Earlier in this Chapter we mentioned some of the aqueducts built in the Orient, like the one at Apamea on the Orontes (Figure 6.32), perhaps the longest of all those in the Roman Empire. The water supply of Jerusalem (Aelia Capitolina from Hadrian) is one of the most famous ones of the Orient, given its symbolic importance. The pools of Solomon, vast reservoirs 13 km south of Jerusalem that are created by dams, store

200,0 cubic meters of water. An aqueduct begins at a reservoir situated near Hebron, connects this reservoir to the pools of Solomon, and then continues to Jerusalem, pass­ing through the center of Bethlehem, very close to the Cave of the Nativity. These installations have often been incorrectly attributed to King Solomon. In fact, they should be attributed to the Roman governor Pontius Pilate, at the very beginning of the

Development of the Roman Orient

Christian era.

Other hydraulic projects were built for the storage of irrigation water. Two of them, both located in Syria, merit our attention.

On the Orontes there is a very large lake formed by a dam built around 1935 over

the remains of a famous ancient dam, 12 km southwest of Homs (the Roman Emesa).[278] In Antiquity, this dam served the same function of maintaining the lake of Homs (at a level three meters lower than the modern dam). According to the study conducted in 1921 by Louis Brosse, the dam was 850 m long[279] and at most seven meters high. The dam is very stable thanks to its broad width, 15 to 20 m in its central portions. Four over­flow weirs, two each on the right and left banks, carry water to canals that lead to the city of Homs and agricultural zones.

A curious feature of this installation is that when the dam was first built, the normal course of the Orontes downstream of the dam is not supplied by water from the spillway, but rather by copious percolation through the face of the dam itself, a face obviously not at all watertight. Modern observers attribute this dam to the Roman period, based on its architecture of a fill of rough-stone concrete between walls of quarry stone. More pre­cisely, the dam appears to date from the year 284 AD, first year of the reign of Diocletius. The dam reflects the prosperity of the city of Emesa at this time.

But these same observers used to believe, in the 1980s, that the dam was much older, having been constructed by the Pharaoh Sethi I, in the 13th century BC, when Egypt dominated this region. The very ancient city of Qadesh was the site of a famous battle between Egyptians and Hittites. One must also consider the account of Strabo, who sit­uated one of the sources of the Orontes near the “Egyptian wall, toward the territory of Apamea.”[280] This account clearly refers to the phenomenon of the Orontes flowing directly from infiltration through the wall of the dam. The most reasonable hypothesis,

Development of the Roman OrientFigure 6.33 The lake of Homs (in 1932), a reservoir of about 90 million m3, and the structure of the ancient dam, after the measurements of L. Brosse in 1923 (Calvet and Geyer, 1992).

following Yves Calvet and Bernard Geyer, is that the site of the dam is a natural rocky barrier which, from very early times of Antiquity, was the site of structures built to raise the level of the natural lake. It is therefore probable that the Romans reconstructed or renovated an ancient dam at the time of Diocletius, following local rather than Egyptian practices, much as the modern dam is constructed over the Roman structure. The long life of the dam, and the fact that the impoundment is not filled with sediment, could be explained by the regular flow of the Orontes.

The Orontes is obviously a river that invites the development of hydraulic works, and it continues to do so as we discuss later in Chapter 7. But there is another region whose development necessitates important hydraulic projects: the region of Palmyra, a land of oases in the middle of the harsh desert of Syria, stopover of caravans on the silk road. Many small oases of Palmyra owe their prosperity to qanats. These could have been constructed by the Persians during the time of the Achaemindes Empire, but it is certain that the network of qanats is further developed and maintained by the Romans.[281] Even more spectacular in this region is the dam of Harbaqa, another project whose pur­pose is to create a reservoir of water for irrigation. The dam is constructed on a season­al watercourse, the wadi al-Barda, 70 km southeast of Palmyra.[282] With its height of 21 m and its length of 365 m, this is the largest dam of the Roman world (except possibly for the dam of Nero at Subiaco, which is higher). It constitutes a rectilinear wall whose thickness at the base is 18 m, further reinforced with buttresses. It is undoubtedly thanks

Development of the Roman Orient

Figure 6.34 In a land of minerals, the dam of Harbaqa across the valley of a Wadi. The impoundment is today completely filled in, but the dam enables the fill to retain sufficient moisture for farming. View from downstream (photo by the author).

to this solid construction that the dam remains standing today, minor repairs having been effected during the 1960’s (Figure 6.34). The dam was apparently built at the end of the 1st century or the beginning of the 2nd century AD as part of the infrastructural work ordered by Hadrian, who visited Palmyra in 130 AD. Much later, under the Umeyyades, new hydraulic works were built downstream of the dam of Harbaqa (Figure 7.10).

In closing this overview of hydraulic technology used in the Roman Orient, we must mention the technical consequences of a serious Roman defeat. When the Emperor Valerius is taken prisoner by the Sassanide Persians in 260 AD, the civil-engineering competence of the captured army is used to build several multi-purpose structures com­prising a dam-spillway and a bridge near the capital city Suse, on the Karun River and its tributaries. This was a kind of forced technology transfer.

Sign Components

Sign assemblies consist of four components:

• The sign panel on which the message is displayed

• The signpost

• Mounting hardware and fasteners

• The base for the post

Sign Panels. The majority of sign panels in use today are made from sheet alu­minum stock [19]. The thickness of the stock varies depending upon the sign size but is generally not less than 0.16 in (4.0 mm). Plywood is occasionally used by some agencies as the blank material for the reflective sheeting face in areas of frequent van­dalism due to gunshots. Wooden sign blanks deform less from gunshots, are easier to repair, and are not as attractive a target as aluminum sign blanks. Plywood, however, does not weather as well as aluminum and, if the edges are not sealed correctly, has a relatively short life. More important, the plywood is heavier than aluminum, thus requiring a stronger post system and increasing the probability of intrusion into the passenger compartment upon impact. Composites such as fiberglass have also been used as sign blank materials with limited success. Early problems with composites included separation of the material and problems with the reflective sheeting adhering to the sign blank. A relatively new sign blank manufactured from recycled thermo­plastic soft drink bottles is available from Composite Technologies [20]. These sign panels are molded with sealed edges, will not bend like aluminum, offer excellent bonding to adhesive sheeting, are weather and corrosion resistant, and are cost-effective compared with current aluminum pricing.

Sign Posts. The sign support must be strong enough to resist the wind and other loads yet safely give way when struck by a vehicle [21]. The loading conditions for which the support must be designed are illustrated in Fig. 7.4. The required size of a signpost is dependent upon the surface area of the sign it is supporting and the prevailing environ­mental conditions. Each state has a series of tables and/or graphs that specify support post requirements based on prevailing wind and ice loads, sign size, and the height of the sign from the ground. These tables provide the information on the support size, embedment depth, and the support type that is required to withstand the environmental loads. The ability of the sign support to operate safely upon impact is dependent on the sign location, features of the surrounding terrain, and the intended method by which the support will give way. All give-way sign support systems operate by (1) complete or partial fracture of the support post, (2) failure of intentionally weakened (frangible) bolts or splices, and

(3) mechanical release methods. These designs allow the support system to either bend at the base (base-bending) or break away into one or more pieces. Sign support systems that do not give way upon impact are fixed-base supports which must be shielded with an appropriate barrier when placed within the traversable area.

Base-Bending Support Types. A base-bending support (Fig. 7.5) is designed to bend over, lie down, and pass beneath the impacting vehicle. How effectively it performs is dependent upon the type of support and the velocity of impact. These supports tend to perform better at lower-speed impacts, which provide sufficient time for them to func­tion as designed. Impacts at high speeds will frequently result in the support’s partially fracturing or being pulled out of the ground. The performance of base-bending supports is more difficult to predict than that of other support types. Their behavior upon impact is influenced by variations in the depth of embedment, the soil resistance, stiffness of the sign support, mounting height of the sign, and the method of effecting the yielding action. One-piece assemblies are typically either driven directly into the ground or set in drilled holes and backfilled. Instead of a one-piece support, the yielding action is often effected by constructing an anchor system and connecting the sign support to the

anchor assembly. The connection can be by direct splicing or the use of commercially available couplers that are designed to bend (fracturing) or break partially (frangible). The advantage of the two-piece assembly is that the anchor system is often not dam­aged during impact, thereby reducing replacement time. Base-bending supports provide a relatively inexpensive support system that reduces the probability that the sign assem­bly will become a deadly projectile to other traffic, pedestrians, and bicyclists.

Breakaway Support Types. Breakaway sign-support systems (Fig. 7.6) are designed to have the system separate, at or near ground level, into more than one piece upon impact. This is accomplished by complete fracture of the support or by the separation of weak­ened splice parts. Wood is the most common material used for complete fracture designs. Weakened splice parts can be field-assembled splices, commercially available splices, or frangible couplings. Frangible couplings are necked down to provide a reduced cross­section. Frangible couplings can be used for single sign supports but are generally used for

FIGURE 7.6 Example of breakaway single sign support.

FIGURE 7.7 Example of mechanical release support type.

large, multiple-support systems. Breakaway support systems typically work best for high­speed impacts where the vehicle has sufficient energy to both break the support and propel it away or over the vehicle.

Mechanical Release Support Types. Mechanical support types include slip base designs (Fig. 7.7), which have flat plates welded to both the sign support and the anchor piece. Upon impact, the plates slide against each other allowing the connecting bolts to release.

DESIGN OF SINGLE-MOUNT SIGN SUPPORTS

Traffic signs are a primary source of information to motorists. The majority of traffic signs consist of sign panels held in place by a single support. Single supports can usu­ally be used for signs as large as 18 ft2 (1.7 m2) in area. The only purpose of the sign support is to hold the sign at the proper position for driver visibility. This requires that this support be strong enough to maintain the sign panel in its intended position while subjected to wind, ice, and snow loads. The magnitude of these forces increases as the sign panel becomes larger in size, until the panel is so large that multiple supports are required. Single sign supports are made of different materials, of various sizes and con­figurations, each capable of withstanding different environmental loads. Considering only the environmental loads and selecting a support system to hold the sign panel at the proper position can result in severe vehicular damage and occupant injury upon impact. Proper sign installation requires that the sign assembly be able to hold its proper position and give way under impact to minimize severity to an errant vehicle and its occupants. This requires the proper design in sign system selection and placement.

Sign supports are classified as single-support and multiple-support systems. Single sign support refers to a support that has no other support, or fixed object, within a 7-ft (2100-mm) radius [18]. Multiple supports refer to installations that are spaced less than 7 ft (2100 mm) from each other, or from other fixed objects. With the closer spacing, it is possible for a vehicle, leaving the roadway at an angle, to impact more than one fixed object or support at a time. Support systems that provide acceptable performance when struck alone can result in severe occupant injury when struck simultaneously with another support. The discussion of this article pertains to single sign supports (i. e., supports installed no closer than a 7-ft (2100-mm) radius to other sign supports or fixed objects). The single mount support types that are used by most agencies include U-channel, wood, square steel tube, and steel pipe. Descriptions of other single mount post types, such as aluminum and fiberglass, are provided at the following FHWA sign support website: http://safety. fhwa. dot. gov/roadway_dept/ road_hardware/signsupports. htm

Wall Framing

Stud spacing should be shown on the plans, but it is still good to be familiar with the code limitations. For 2 x 4 studs less than 10 feet tall, the maximum stud spacing is 24" O. C., provided the wall is supporting one floor or a roof and ceiling only. For the support of one floor, a roof, and ceiling, 16" O. C. is the maximum. To support two floors, a roof, and a ceiling with a maximum spacing of 16" O. C. and height of 10′, a minimum of 3 x 4 studs must be used. If studs are 2 x 6, a wall can support one floor, a roof, and ceiling at 24" O. C., or two floors, a roof, and ceiling at 16" O. C. Again, this stud spacing only applies to walls that don’t exceed 101 in height. (See "Stud—Spacing and Size" illustration.)

Cripple walls less than 41 in height should be framed with studs at least as big as those used in the walls above them. If the cripple walls are higher than 41, then the studs need to be at least the size required for supporting an additional floor level (as described in previous paragraph). (See "Foundation Cripple Walls" illustration.)

Double plates are needed on top plates for bearing and exterior walls. The end joints of the top plates and double plates should be offset by at least 48”. The IRC allows a 24” offset at nonstructural interior walls. The end joints need to be nailed with at least eight 16d nails or twelve 3” x 0.131" nails on each side of the joint. A single top plate may be used if the plates are tied together at the joints, intersecting walls, and corners with 3” x 6” galvanized steel plates or the equivalent, and all rafters, joists, or trusses are centered over the studs. (See “Walls, Top and Double Plate" illustration.)

Allowable drilling and notching is different for bearing or exterior walls, and for non-bearing or interior walls. Bearing or exterior walls can be notched up to 25% of the width of the stud and drilled up to 40% of the stud provided that the hole is at least 5/8” away from the edge. With interior non-bearing walls, the percentages are 40% for notches and 60% for drilling. (See “Drilling & Notching Studs, Exterior & Bearing Walls" and “Drilling & Notching Studs, Interior Nonbearing Walls" illustrations later in this chapter.)

Header sizes for exterior and bearing walls should be specified on the plans. For nonbearing walls, a flat 2 x 4 may be used as a header for a maximum of up to 8′ span where the height above the header to the top plate is 24” or less. (See “Header for Nonbearing Walls" illustration later in this chapter.)

Fireblocking refers to material you install to prevent flames from traveling through concealed spaces between areas of a building.

The location of fireblocks is sometimes difficult to understand.

It helps to think of where flames would be able to go. A 1%”- thick piece of wood can create a fireblock. If you place a row of these blocks in a wall, you create
a deterrent for the vertical spread of fire. Vertical and horizontal fireblocks are required in walls at least every 10′. (See “Fireblocking Vertical" and “Fireblocking Horizontal" illustrations later in this chapter.)

In a “party wall" construction, where you have two walls next to each other, you can create a fireblock by installing a stud in the space between the studs in the two adjoining walls. This creates a vertical fireblock. Note that %” gypsum board can also be used to create this type of fireblock.

Fireblocking is required between walls, floors, ceilings, and roofs. Typically, the drywall covering creates this fireblock. If it doesn’t, then fireblocking is needed. Where fireblocking is required behind the ledger, it can be installed at the interconnections of any concealed vertical and horizontal space like that which occurs at soffits, drop ceilings, or cove ceilings. (See “Fireblocking at Interconnections" illustration later in this chapter.)

Stair stringers must be fireblocked at the top and bottom of each run and between studs along the stair stringers if the walls below the stairs are unfinished.

Bored holes cannot be bigger than 40% of stud width.

For 2 x 4 = i3/8" maximum For 2 x 6 = 23/i6 maximum

5/8" minimum between hole and edge of stud

Notch cannot be bigger than 25% of stud depth.

For 2 x 4 = 7/8" maximum For 2 x 6 = 13/8" maximum

With doubled studs, bored hole may be as big as 60% of stud width. No more than two successive studs should be doubled and bored up to 60%.

For 2 x 4 studs = 21/8"

For 2 x 6 studs = 35/i6"

Bored holes cannot be bigger than 60% of stud depth

For 2 x 4 = 2/8" maximum For 2 x 6 = 35/i6" maximum

5/8" minimum between hoi and edge of stud

Making It Happen

IMAGINE MARION WILLOUGHBY,

sitting on the rotting front porch of his leaking rental house, listening to Habitat’s offer to have volunteers help him build a new home. Imagine him hearing that Habitat will sell the new house to him at cost and also give him a mortgage with 0% interest.

Marion did not believe a house could be built in just one week. But his opinion began to change when he saw the Habitat volunteers arrive in the pouring rain with a 40-ft. horse trailer packed with enough gear for a

crew of 30 members. Marion began to believe that a miracle might happen in just six days.

I can’t count how many times that week he said, “You don’t see ladies doing this kind of work!” and “This is such a blessing!” and “You people do it right!” Marion was amazed that a crew of accountants, lawyers, judges, flight attendants, computer program­mers, mothers, and grandmothers could build a house—and that they cared enough to come to Georgia to build a house for him.

The house cost $50,000. But it took much more than money to build Marion Willoughby’s house. It took months of planning, two days of travel, and six days of hard work. Was it worth it? There’s no doubt in my mind that Marion would answer with an emphatic “Yes!” And so would the many volunteers and staff who helped make it possible. Because, when it comes right down to it, providing decent housing for another human being is an experience that enriches everyone who lends a hand.

-Anna G. Carter

Making It HappenHabitat for Humanity and its volunteers have changed Marion Willoughby’s life for the better. His new home is safe, warm,

and dry. [Photo © Anna G. Carter.]

BUILDING A DECK FRAME

Подпись: 2x6 deck ledger bolted to houseПодпись: Beam framing connectorПодпись: 5 ft. 11 in. 5 ft. 8 in. Подпись:Подпись: Built-up girder detailПодпись: hanger Joist-to-beam connection Making It HappenПодпись: This illustration shows one way to build a solid, long-lasting porch or deck frame.Подпись: FINDING THE LENGTH OF SUPPORT POSTS Подпись: The scrap 2x6 is the width of the girder or joist that will support the deck once the frame is built. The post will extend from the concrete pier to the deck frame.

Irrigation works in North Africa

Lucius Septimus Severus was born at Leptis Magna, capital of Cyrenaica (today’s Libya), at the end of the 2nd century AD. After the death of the Emperor Commodius in 192 AD, Severus emerges victorious from the civil wars, and becomes emperor in his turn, founding the dynasty of the Severians. North Africa had already been a prosper­ous region for some time; we have mentioned earlier the great aqueducts of Carthage and Cherchell (Lol Caesarea), testaments to the prosperity of these cities. But the new emperor adorns North Africa even further, battling the desert nomads, building roads and fortifications, and creating the new province of Numedia to the west of present-day

Tunisia. Severus had a natural attachment to his native country, but was also motivated by the desire to support new colonists and to create new lands for production of cereals to help feed the Empire.

The Romans built some 130 dams for irrigation in North Africa, counting only those structures with known remains.[270] The dams were likely constructed in the 2nd century

Irrigation works in North Africa

AD (i. e. somewhat later than the dams in Spain). Some of the dams were intended to trap alluvial sediments and thus help create arable land, following the ancient technique of the Nabatians. One of these dams, near Leptis Magna, was built to divert flood waters of the wadi Labda, a watercourse at whose mouth the city’s port was developed (Figure 6.38). As far as we know, the highest of the dams was some ten meters; the longest is about 260 m. These are gravity earth dams, sometimes with buttresses, that can be sub­merged by violent floods of the wadis without suffering damage. Some 70 dams are thought to have been identified in the region of Leptis Magna and Tripoli (Oea); thirty in the region of Constantine (Cirta), Setif (Sitifis) and Rusicade; and fifteen around Cherchell (Lol Caesarea). The largest dam is that of Kasserine in Tunisia, on the wadi Derb, in a grain region not far from Sbeitla (Sufetula). This dam includes a wall 7 meters thick at its base and 4.9 m at its crest, 10 m high, and about 130m long. It has since been replaced by a modern dam on the same site.

There are also qanats in the Roman provinces of proconsular Africa and Numedia.[271] In North Africa, they are later called kettaras, or foggaras. We have seen in Chapter 2 how this technique was spread into numerous sectors of the Acheminides Empire by the Persians. We encountered it again in the oases of Egypt (Chapter 3). As we will see further on, it is obvious that the Romans maintained and developed qanats in the Orient. It is therefore no surprise that qanats are found in the eastern part of the African provinces: at El-Djem (Thysdrus), between Tebessa (Thevestis) and Gafsa (Capsa), near Carthage and, more to the west, in the region of Timgad (Thamugadi). The latter are attributed to the period of Commodius, i. e. the end of the 2nd century AD. Latin inscriptions sometimes attest to the Roman origin of the qanats, as in the region between Tebessa and Gafsa, or as at Timgad:

“Facility for the collection and delivery of underground water.”[272]

The Roman origin of the qanats is assumed in many other situations. The above observations make it tempting to accept the hypothesis of Henri Goblot, according to whom it was indeed the Romans who imported the qanat into Africa. Much later, the Arabs diffuse the technique even further, toward Spain and Morocco.

BUILDING OUT FROM THE MAIN DRAIN

Extending the DWV system out from the end of a cast-iron main drain—where it joins the soil stack—can be the least disruptive way if there’s a cleanout at the end of the drain that you can remove. Before cutting the drain, support both sides of the section to be cut, using pipe clamps or strap hangers.

The exact configuration of the end run will depend on the size of the main drain, the fitting currently at the base of the stack, the fixtures you’re adding, and the size of the drain needed to serve them. If you are not adding a toilet, the drain extension can be 2-in. pipe, which can be attached with a reducing bushing such as the male-threaded adapters shown in "Extending with 2-in. ABS,” at left. If you’re adding a toilet, however, the extension must be 3-in. pipe, often inserted with a ribbed bushing to ensure a tight fit. If it’s not possible to insert the 3-in. pipe into an old cleanout leg, you may need to cut out the existing combo and install a no-hub combo to build out from.

Note: If you build out from an existing cleanout at the end of the main drain, you’ll need to add a new cleanout at the end of the extension.

TYING INTO THE MAIN DRAIN IN MID-RUN

Before tying into the main drain in mid-run, flush the drain and support both sides of the sec­tion you’ll cut into. Then install strap hangers to support both sides of the 3-in. or 4-in. drain. Tying into a cast-iron or plastic drain is essential­ly the same procedure as splicing into a stack, but it requires different fittings. So here’s how to tie into a cast-iron main drain. With one hand,

Подпись: If the neoprene sleeve inside a no-hub coupling won't slide on easily, it may have a small stop lip inside—sort of a depth gauge to stop the incoming pipe in the middle of the sleeve. Soap the inside of the sleeve to reduce friction. You could use a utility knife to trim off the lip, but that would be more time-consuming and you're likely to puncture the sleeve.Подпись: 1111Подпись: Maximum Sizes for Holes and Notches FRAMING ELEMENT HOLE DIAMETER (in. Bearing studs 2 x4 138 7/S 2 x6 23/i6 138 Nonbearing studs 2 x4 2 138 2 x6 31/4 23/16 Solid lumber joists 2 x6 13/4 7/s 2 x8 21/2 1/4 2 x10 318 138 2 x12 33/4 138

hold the no-hub combo fitting you’ll add next to the drain section and, with the other hand, mark cut-lines onto the drain using a grease pencil.

The cut marks should be 1 in. longer than the length of the fitting to accommodate the thick­ness of the stop lip inside each no-hub coupling’s neoprene sleeve. (If the main drain is cast iron, use a snap cutter to cut it; if it’s plastic, use a wheeled cutter.)

After cutting out the drain section, use no-hub couplings to attach the new no-hub combo fit­ting. Slide a neoprene sleeve onto each end of the cut drain, insert the no-hub combo, and then slide

Toe-nailing and Toe-screwing

Nails, when they became cheap, replaced dowels, doveta Is, and mortise-and-tenon joints. Most nailing is called surface nailing: driving a nail straight through one board in order to fasten it to another. This is the way roofing planks and plywood are installed, as well as wooden siding.

But one of the most valuable skills in timber framing for the rest of us is to learn how to toenail properly. A toenail (in carpentry) is a nail driven at an angle that allows us to join one timber to another where they meet at right angles. It is a fairly strong method of nailing, because toenails are always installed opposite each other, as in Fig. 4.21. Some of the nails will always provide shear strength, no matter which way a timber is forced. Toe­nails don’t pull out easily, as you will discover when you make a mistake, and have to take your own work apart.

Toenails should be installed at about a 60-degree angle, as shown in the illustration. With two-by framing, an 8-penny (2.5-inch) toenail is started about three – quarters-inch (1.9 centimeters) up the upright. But with heavy timbers, I tend to use a larger nail, such as a 16- penny (3.5-inch) nail, and start it an inch or even 1.25- inch (3.2 centimeters) up the side of the post. With the 60-degree angle, you will still get plenty of purchase into the wood below.

The "law of the toenail" says that you will move the base of the post or beam in the direction in which you are striking. You can avoid this by marking the post in its correct position with a pencil and then starting one of the toenails until it grabs the substrate. You can drive it until the post begins to move, then stop. Install the opposite toenail as a reactionary thrust. It will move the post back into the correct position. By working on one toenail, then its opposite, you can set the post firmly, right where it belongs.

You can lessen the chance of splitting wood while toe-nailing if, first, you hit the pointy end of a nail quite stiffly with a hammer while its head bears against something hard, such as concrete. This will dull the point. A pointed nail tends to spread the fibers and split the wood, but a blunt nail will simply puncture the wood grain as it penetrates: no split. With large nails, pre-drilling the angle will also reduce the chance of splitting wood and make the nail easier to install.

As the years go by, I use nails less and screws more. Screws have the advantage of being removable. Toe­screwing is my term for using a screw instead of a nail in a toe-nailing situation. With large (3.5- to 4-inch or 10.1 centimeter) deck screws, drill a small pilot hole first to lessen the chance of splitting. Use an electric drill to install these screws, not a screwdriver. Robertson screws — the ones with the little indented squares in the head — drive more positively than Phillips or slotted screws and the heads are less likely to get mangled by the driving bit.

For the remainder of this book, the terms "toenail" or "toenailing" also implies the optional use of screws.

Toenailing can also be used to fasten any beam over a post. The toenails (or screws) are driven upward through the post into the beam. See the sidebar on the facing page. The “law of the toenail” is particularly strong In this situation, and screws give a little more control than nails.

Another way to hold the beam fast over a post as by the use of truss plates, as shown in Fig. 4.22a, and you really need to place one each side of the wall to get the proper strength. The downside of this method is that the truss plates will often be in view in this application, and they are not particularly nice looking. You can beat this by making your own heavy (one-eighth-inch or 3.2 millimeter) pieces, drilling holes in them, and installing them as in Fig. 4.22b, with, say, two one-quarter-inch by 3- inch (0.6- by 7.6-centimeter) lag screws into each member (four per plate, each side of the joint.) Paint them whatever color tickles you. But black is nice.

Yet another post-to-beam fastening method is shown in Fig. 4.22c, in which the metal can be hidden inside of an infilled wall. Here, right-angle fasteners, commonly available at any hardware store, are used instead of toenails. These are like ordinary truss plates, but bent in the middle to form a right-angle. In a pinch, I have bent truss plates into right angles for the purpose, as in Fig. 4.35. Use four – penny (4d) nails, which are one-and-a-half inches long. You don’t have to put a nail in every hole provided. I generally use about half the holes, as long as this is at least five in number, more with larger plates or right-angle fasteners.

Resilient Behaviour

9.4.1.1 Routine Pavement Analysis

In practice much routine pavement design is carried out as catalogue-based design. Nevertheless, routine structural analysis and design methods are used as supple­mental design methods where the pavement is considered as a multi-layered elastic system (Amadeus Project, 2000). The layers are characterised by Young’s modulus, Poisson ratio and thickness. The simplest model for the stress-strain behaviour of isotropic materials is based on linear elasticity, which is described by Hooke’s law. In two or three dimensions, the model is written:

°ij = Ejr (9.1)

where oij, ей, Eeijkl are respectively members of the stress, strain and stiffness tensors а, є and Ee.

A symmetric stiffness matrix is used to describe the constitutive equations in those cases. As a road pavement is a layered structure, the material behaviour might be non-isotropic, with different stiffnesses in horizontal and vertical direc­tions. Thus, the constitutive matrix is described with more independent parameters, which are also difficult to determine in a laboratory test. Hence, materials are usu­ally considered isotropic. If the layers are not too thin, this might be a reasonable simplification.

Lay out and cut the stringers

There are two basic types of stringers for stairs. Cut, or open, stringers have square cutouts to support treads and risers. Closed stringers use cleats rather than cutouts to support treads. To

Подпись: Use a square to lay out a stair stringer. Mark the square cutout areas with a framing square. The tread and riser measurements on the square align along the edge of the board.

give a deck or porch stairway a trim look, I like to use closed stringers on the sides. Cut stringers must be used in the middle. Stringers for out­door stairways are usually cut from PT 2x12s. Stairs with three risers can be cut from 4-ft. stock, but it’s a bit tight. Stairs with four risers can be cut from 6-ft. stock.

A framing square and a pencil are all you need to lay out stair stringers. Although they aren’t necessary, a pair of stair gauges (small clamps that screw onto a framing square) make the layout process faster and just about fool­proof. Attach one gauge at the 71/2-in. measure (the rise) on the narrow part of a framing square (the tongue). Place the other gauge at the 11-in. measure (the tread width) on the wider part of the square (the blade). Now lay out the stringer, working from the bottom to the top. If you don’t use stair gauges on a fram­ing square, simply align the 71/2-in. and 11-in. measurements over the edge of the stringer, as shown in the photo above. After marking the first tread and riser, move the square up,
place the tread mark directly on the riser mark, scribe the second tread and riser, then do the third. Then use the square to mark a level cut at the bottom of the stringer and a plumb cut at the top.

The bottom of the stringer must be “dropped” to allow for the thickness of the first tread. If you were to screw a FA-in.-thick tread on the first riser (7’/2 in. tall), then the first step would be 9 in., which would cause a lot of people to trip every time they used the stairs.

To make each riser the same height, cut 1’/2 in. from the bottom of the stringer. Finish laying out this stringer by marking a notch for a 2x 4 kicker board. It’s best to cut the kicker-board notch at the back of the stringer.

When the layout is complete, it’s time to cut the stringer. Start the cuts with a circular saw, closely following the lines (see the top photo on p. 188). Then use a handsaw or a jigsaw to finish the cuts at the intersection of the tread and the riser so that you don’t overcut and weaken the stringer.

Подпись: Cut a stringer the right way. Use a circular saw to cut into the corner along each tread and riser line, then finish the cut with a handsaw. A CUT STRINGER SERVES AS A PATTERN FOR A CLOSED STRINGER.

Once you’ve completed a cut stringer, use it as a pattern for other cut and closed stringers in the same staircase (see the photo at right). The plumb and level cuts at the top and bottom of the closed stringer are identical to those on the cut stringer, but they are the only cuts you need to make on a closed stringer. Using the cut stringer as a pattern, mark the tread lines on the closed stringer to indicate where the cleats must be installed.

Fasten F/2-in.-sq. PT wood cleats below the tread lines on each closed stringer (see the top photo on the facing page). Drive four 21/2-in.-long deck screws to secure each cleat. Manufactured metal cleats are also available, if you prefer. The treads will be screwed to the cleats after all the stair stringers have been installed.