Techniques MAKING AN OUTLET-BOX CUTOUT

PRECISE CUTOUTS ARE SOMETIMES REQUIRED

for certain situations, such as fitting siding panels over vents or electrical outlet boxes. Careful layout is the key here.

1. Place the siding panel directly below where it will be installed. Mark where the sides of the box hit the panel.

2. Reposition the panel to one side of the box, clipping it into the panel just below the box. Mark where the top and bottom of the box hit the panel.

3. Outline the cutout where the horizontal and vertical lines intersect, then cut the opening with a sharp utility knife.

The panel is now ready to install.

Techniques MAKING AN OUTLET-BOX CUTOUTTechniques MAKING AN OUTLET-BOX CUTOUT

side for expansion. These notched cuts can be made with a utility knife, a hacksaw, or tin – snips. Use a snap-lock punch to create crimps, I or tabs, lA in. down from the top edge of the I notched siding and make crimps every 6 in. across the length of the window. The crimps must face out to lock into the undersill trim.

The panels that fit over the tops of win­dows and doors are marked and notched in the same way as those on the bottom. The horizontal part of the siding slips down into the J-channel. To make cutouts where the sid­ing fits over a dryer vent, an electrical outlet box, or another protrusion, use the techniques discussed above and on the facing page.

Positive Placement Nail Guns

Earthquakes, hurricanes, and tornados continue to wreak havoc on our wood frame houses and buildings. We will never be able to completely protect against the worst case scenario, however our codes are continually improving so that we can make our buildings stronger. A big part of this improvement has been the addition of connection hardware. Whereas most connections used to be secured by nails, connections needed to establish shear and diaphragm strength are now secured by hardware. Most of this hardware is fastened with nails and in many cases a large number of nails. For example, where a small framing clip may take 12 nails, a four foot strap may take 32 nails, depending on the particular size and type of connector.

Because of all the additional hardware nailing, nail gun manufacturers have come out with positive placement nail guns that are specially made for nailing on hardware. There are different styles but they all use the same nails which are different
from standard nail guns. The nails are hardened and come in four sizes which are.131 X 1-1/2",

.148 1-1/2", .148 X 2-1/2", and.162 : 2-1/2". The guns use two methods to find the nail holes in the hardware. One style uses a probe that is placed in the hole, and then the gun directs the nail. In the other style, the nail protrudes so that the nail is placed in the hardware hole before firing the gun.

You need to make sure you use the right nail for the hardware. Each piece of hardware has its own nail requirements. If you use too big a nail you can fracture the steel around the nail hole, and if you use too small a nail you will not develop the appropriate strength needed. Hardware manufacturer specifications note the requirements. For example on the web at strongtie. com, Simpson Strong-Tie Company lists all their hardware with the amount and size of nails needed. There is also a convenient nail replacement chart which lists some nail size substitutions. This is helpful when you are installing hardware that was designed for standard nails but you are using positive placement gun nails. You can find this chart at strongtie. com/ products/connectors/nails. asp.

Conclusion

Quality of installation is probably the most important part of framing to withstand the forces of nature. APA (formerly the American Plywood Association, now the Engineered Wood Association) confirmed this fact when it conducted a study of the construction failures in the aftermath of Hurricane Andrew. In the houses they investigated, roofs were the most common failures. Those roof systems most often failed due to lack of proper sheathing nailing.

Wind – and earthquake-resistant framing are important skills for lead framers, and essential to those in susceptible parts of the country. Building codes, along with the designs architects and engineers create to meet code requirements, specify the framing for wind and earthquake resistance. The lead framer must take that information, along with data from connector manufacturers, and ensure that those requirements are met.

Roof failure as a result of Hurricane Andrew

CALCULATING PROPER FIXTURE SPACING AND PLACEMENT

S

tandard fixture layouts are dictated by local plumbing codes. Plumbing codes require certain amounts of space to be provided in front of and be­side plumbing fixtures. The rules for standard fixtures are different than those used to control the installation of handicap fixtures. We will use this chapter to cover the essentials of standard fixtures and address the topic of handicap fixtures in the next chapter. For now, just concentrate on typical fix­ture installations when you review the information in this chapter. Before we get into deep details, I want to remind you to consult your local plumbing code for requirements specific to your region. The numbers I give you here are based on code requirements, but they may not be from the code that is enforced in your area.

If you work mostly with new construction, you probably work from blue­prints. When this is the case, fixture locations are usually indicated and ap­proved before a job is started. But, remodeling jobs can require plumbers to make on-site determinations for fixture placement. A contractor might ask you to provide spacing requirements for small jobs. Knowing how to do this is important. For example, if a builder showed you a sketch, like the one in Figure 10.1, would you be able to assign numbers to the areas around the fix­tures? How wide would the compartment where the toilet is housed be re­quired to be? The answer is 30 inches. This is common knowledge for many plumbers, and codebooks define the distance. So, even if you don’t know the spacing requirements off the top of your head, you can always consult your local code for the answers.

A general rule for toilets is that there must be at least 15 inches of clear space on either side of the center of the drain for the toilet. This equates to a total space of 30 inches (Fig. 10.2). Now, how much clearance is needed in front of a toilet? The normal answer is 18 inches (Fig. 10.3). Some bathrooms are small. This can create a problem for plumbers, especially if you are re­modeling the bathroom with new fixtures or possibly different types of

187

CALCULATING PROPER FIXTURE SPACING AND PLACEMENT

FIGURE 10.1 ■ A typical bathroom layout. (Courtesy of McGraw-Hill)

CALCULATING PROPER FIXTURE SPACING AND PLACEMENT

CALCULATING PROPER FIXTURE SPACING AND PLACEMENT

FIGURE 10.3 ■ Minimum distance in front of toilet. (Courtesy of McGraw-Hill)

 

Подпись: ► sensible shortcutCALCULATING PROPER FIXTURE SPACING AND PLACEMENTfixtures. Getting your rough-in for the fixtures right is crucial to the job. If you install a drain for a toilet and find out when you go to set fixtures that there is inadequate space for the toilet to comply with the plumbing code, there could be a lot of work and expense re­quired to correct the situation.

Подпись:When you are laying out plumbing fixtures, you should concentrate on what you are doing. Get to know your code re­quirements and check the fixture place­ment in all directions. Figure 10.4 shows how a legal layout might look. in contrast,

Figure 10.5 shows what would result in an illegal layout. Notice that the distance from the edge of the vanity is only 12 inches from the center of the toilet. To meet code, the distance must be at least 15 inches. A problem like this might be avoided by using a smaller vanity. If the potential problem is caught on paper, before pipes are installed, it is much easier and less costly to correct.

CALCULATING PROPER FIXTURE SPACING AND PLACEMENT

FIGURE 10.4 ■ Minimum distances for legal layout. (Courtesy of McGraw-Hill)

CALCULATING PROPER FIXTURE SPACING AND PLACEMENT

Something else to consider when set­ting fixtures is their overall alignment.

Подпись: been there done that There are times when space is at a premium. Consider using corner fixtures, such as a corner shower or corner toilet. This can buy you enough space to make a remodeling job work. The plumbing codes not only require cer­tain defined standards, they also deal with topics such as workmanship. This means that a job could be rejected if the fixtures are installed in a sloppy manner. Figure 10.6 shows a toilet where the flush tank is not installed with equal distance from the

back wall. A proper installation would have the toilet tank set evenly, with equal distance from the back wall, as is indicated in Figure 10.7.

CALCULATING PROPER FIXTURE SPACING AND PLACEMENT

CALCULATING PROPER FIXTURE SPACING AND PLACEMENT

FIGURE 10.7A ■ Proper toilet alignment. (Courtesy of McGraw-Hill)

 

Measurement

 

Minimum distance (in inches)

15

18

30

60

 

From center of drain to any object on either side From front of fixture to any object in front of it Width of a privacy compartment Depth of a privacy compartment

 

FIGURE 10.7B ■ Clearances for water closets. (Courtesy of McGraw-Hill)

 

Identifying Need for Supplemental Advance Warning Devices

Locations which would benefit from the installation of supplemental advance warning devices typically exhibit safety and/or operational problems. Establishing the need for supplemental devices, therefore, requires identifying the problem locations and performing a safety and/or operational analysis. Deficient locations can be identified by a traffic safety management system, citizen complaints, employee observations, and by safety analysis during a planned resurfacing, restoration, and rehabilitation (RRR) project.

Accident-based studies are used to identify locations that can be considered haz­ardous due to a large number of accidents. These studies involve the review and analysis of systemwide accident information. To compare the accident experience of several locations, the length of time over which accidents are counted, the traffic vol­umes, and the length of roadway section involved should be the same at each location. If not, accident rates may be compared between locations, provided that a common unit of exposure (e. g., accidents per million vehicle miles for longer roadway sections, or accidents per million entering vehicles for spot locations and intersections) is used.

Potential locations can also be identified by complaints received from citizens and by observations made by employees. Often a combination of accident analysis and an investigation of complaints and observations is required for low-volume roadways. Complaints about “near misses” and observations of hazardous roadway elements can be considered indicators of site deficiencies. This type of information is treated by some agencies with the same importance as a documented accident history. Such treat­ment has the advantage of reducing the number of accidents required to identify the hazardous roadway locations.

It should be recognized that maintaining a complaint and employee observation file requires that the agency be responsive to these inputs. Complaints and observations are notifications of hazards that become a matter of public record and are available as evidence should an accident result in litigation. This alone is not a valid reason to fail to maintain a complaint and observation file. If a defect is allowed to remain for an unreasonable period of time, even if no complaints or observations were received, the courts can consider it as constructive notice and assign liability. Complaint and obser­vation files should, therefore, be maintained and a program established to respond to all complaints and to document facts and engineering decisions to minimize the possi­bility of lawsuit losses.

An opportune time to identify the need for a device is during the design phase of pro­jects primarily intended to upgrade the physical and operational characteristics of the roadway. This opportunity can be used to detect safety and operational deficiencies and to select appropriate improvements that can be incorporated into the upgrading project.

The identification of potential locations for each of the previous methods should include a field inspection to help establish the cause of the deficiency and appropriate countermea­sures. If the site inspection indicates that the deficiency cannot be readily corrected due to cost or physical constraints, then an advance warning device should be installed. If the site conditions are sufficiently unusual that an appropriate warning device is not con­tained in the federal or appropriate state MUTCD, then a supplemental device may need to be used or developed until it is feasible to take care of the underlying problem.

For example, consider a situation where a sag vertical curve was constructed to provide sufficient vertical bridge clearance on a roadway with a posted speed of 45 mi/h (70 km/h). Analysis of the areawide accidents indicated that there is a higher than expected occurrence of intersection-related and rear-end accidents at a signalized intersection immediately downstream of the bridge. A visit to the site indicated that the signal faces were not visible to approaching drivers until they were 400 ft (120 m) from the stop line. Since this distance is less than the minimum visibility distance of 460 ft (140 m) specified by Sec. 4D.15 of MUTCD, a Signal Ahead sign (W3-3) was installed [2]. The engineer determined that, although the minimum recommendations of MUTCD were being achieved, safety improvements could be achieved by providing real-time warning that a stop will be required at the intersection. Since removing the sight obstruction was not

FIGURE 7.1 Example of supplemental advance warning sign.

possible, the engineer considered lowering the speed limit and/or providing additional motorist warning. Experience with lowering speed limits indicated that this countermea­sure was not an effective long-term solution. The engineer decided to install an active supplemental advance warning device with the legend “Prepare to Stop When Flashing” configured as shown in Fig. 7.1. The device was installed over the roadway, 500 ft (150 m) in advance of the stop bar, and interconnected with the traffic signal controller. The hor­izontally mounted beacons were timed to flash yellow 8 s prior to the red indication so that drivers passing the beacon at the legal speed limit would have advance warning of the required stop at the intersection. The yellow beacons continued to flash until 3 s before the end of the red indication to allow the start of queue dissipation. Motorists not encountering the flashing lights could expect not needing to come to a complete stop at the signal, while still having the signal presence reinforced by the overhead sign. The engineer plans to continue monitoring the location to determine if the active advance warning device is effective in reducing accidents.

Finding the Sweet Spot: Siting a Home for Energy Efficiency

Finding the Sweet Spot: Siting a Home for Energy Efficiency

BY M. JOE NUMBERS

A

rchitecture professors love a good riddle. Here’s one: How do ancient Greek town grids, Anasazi Indian pueblos, and New England saltbox houses differ from most residential construction today? Give up? Each culture understood how to site a
house. The ancient Greeks oriented their town grids to receive winter sun and sum­mer shade. The Anasazi Indians located their dwellings beneath cliff overhangs to take advantage of natural shading. Early Ameri­can settlers oriented and configured their saltbox houses to minimize the cold north­ern facade and to maximize the warm southern facade.

Regrettably, the siting lore known to our ancestors has practically disappeared because of central-heating and – cooling systems. That’s too bad, because a house’s energy efficiency, comfort, and marketability are all affected by its siting. A house that’s sited to take advantage of the sun, the wind, and the topography costs less to heat and cool, and lets you enjoy indoors and outdoors longer, two strong selling points.

In the site-design classes I used to teach, we divided solar-siting strategies into three categories: orientation, or which way the house faces; location, or where the house sits; and configuration, or how it’s shaped. Figuring out the best orientation, location, and configuration requires a little knowledge of local climatic conditions and an analysis

of the site and its surroundings. Here, I’ll discuss what to look for and where to find the information you need to reap the ben­efits of a properly sited house.

Long Side Faces South

When siting a house, the most effective strategy you can use is to orient the building with the long side aligned on the east-west axis. This orientation places the long side of the building where it can be reached and heated by the low-angle rays of the winter sun. Conversely, it places the short sides of the building to the east and west to mini­mize solar gains during the overheated peri­ods of summer.

Your house doesn’t have to be exactly on the east-west axis; somewhere within 15 degrees of this axis is fine. What’s more important is that the house is oriented toward true south, not magnetic south. Compass needles point to magnetic north, which deviates from true north by as much as 20 degrees. The difference between mag­netic north and true north is declination, and it varies across the United States (see the sidebar on pp. 130-131). Information on declination can be found on U. S. Geological Survey topological maps or the NOAA web­site (http://www. ngdc. noaa. gov/geomag/ geomag. shtml).

Once you know your area’s declination angle, it’s a matter of spinning the dial on a compass. For example, in Boise, Idaho, the declination angle is approximately 14 degrees east. Line up a compass on mag­netic north, then rotate the dial until the needle is pointing to 14 degrees east of the north mark on the dial; now the dial mark­ings (not the needle) point to true north.

Lots of related strategies make a true – south orientation more effective. One is to reduce openings (i. e., windows and doors), especially on the north side of the house, because doors and windows conduct more heat than a well-insulated wall. In cold cli­mates, only about 5% to 10% of non-south­facing walls should be openings. In warmer climates, you can get away with slightly more openings as long as the house is well insulated.

On south elevations, increase openings for winter solar gain, but shade them during summer months. Deciduous trees provide summer shading, as do awnings. You can also build overhangs, but they shouldn’t be so deep that they block the sun in winter (see the drawing on p. 131).

To figure out the optimal depth for over­hangs in your area, use the shade-line-factor formula: The depth of an overhang equals the height from the bottom of a window to its overhang divided by the shade-line factor. This number varies with latitude, so you’ll need to know your location’s geo­graphic latitude to choose the right shade­line factor. Most maps of the United States and most state maps show latitude.

Another way to make a southern expo­sure work harder for you is to coordinate the floor plan with the house’s orientation. Locate public living spaces, such as the liv­ing room, the dining room, the kitchen, and such, to the south side of the house, where they will receive light and warmth through­out the year. Locate private and unoccupied rooms—bedrooms, utility rooms, storage rooms, etc.—to the north, where they will act as insulating buffers for the home’s public spaces (see the floor plan on p. 130). These buffer spaces serve as a form of insula­tion (particularly if they can be closed off

Design of Supplemental Warning Devices

Designing a warning device that provides a clear, unambiguous message to the motorist can be a difficult task. The difficulty is due in part to the concern of the engineer to act in a “reasonable and prudent” manner. Increasing motorist safety and minimizing lia­bility require that the device provide a readily understood and unambiguous message.

In the design of warning signs, it is important to remember that signs are designed to draw attention to themselves through contrast, color, shape, composition, reflector – ization, and illumination, with a simple message providing a clear and understandable instruction to the motorist. Sign size, symbol size, lettering size, and placement should be such to allow adequate time for proper response. Uniform and reasonable instruc­tions to the motorist will instill respect and develop willing compliance with the sign message. For these reasons, the majority of general warning signs should be designed as diamond shapes with black letters on a yellow background. Standard sign letters are prescribed in FHWA Standard Highway Signs, which should be used to develop let­tering size and style [9]. Sections 2C.01, 2C.02, 2C.03, and 2C.04 of MUTCD contain information that must be followed in the design of warning signs. In addition, Sec. 1A.11 of MUTCD lists additional publications and documents that provide requisite information for the proper design of warning signs.

Romans and dam technology

In about 60 AD the Emperor Nero built his villa at Subiaco, on the river Anio upstream of Tivoli (Figure 6.8). He formed lakes for his personal pleasure by damming the river. The largest of the structures he built for this purpose is across a natural gorge and at 40 m, is the highest dam of all the Roman Empire. Rectilinear, 80 m long at its crest and 13.5m thick, it is what one would call today a gravity dam, relying on friction at its base to resist the force of water in the reservoir behind it. This dam remained standing until 1304, when the monks of a neighboring monastery dismantled it to recover the stones for other use.[263] Forty years after Nero, Frontinus built the new intake for the Anio Novus aqueduct on one of these lakes to improve the quality of its water, as we have seen earlier.

Nero’s dam at Subiaco is not only the highest, but also one of the first dams con­structed by the Romans, and the only one in Italy. Since dams were not essential to the development of Italy, dam technology is not a traditional Roman discipline (Vitruvius says nothing of dams in his treatise On Architecture). We have seen in the first part of this book that numerous dams were built in the Orient from the IVth millennium BC. It is undoubtedly through their domination of the Orient (Syria-Palestine, Egypt) and through their military expeditions (Yemen) that the Romans acquired this technology and then further developed it, especially from the 1st century AD.

Like those of the Orient, Roman dams are almost always of the gravity type, the one at Subiaco being a good example. These dams most often are built of simple rectilinear walls of masonry or concrete, supported by earth fill or buttresses, as we will see further on. However the Romans also invented the arch dam, a structure whose shape enables it to transmit the pressure force of impounded water to the lateral valley walls, just as the arch of a bridge transfers the load to its supporting piers.

In the valley of the Baume, several kilometers south of Saint-Remy-de-Provence in France, are the remains of a structure that is now buried under a dam built in 1891. A provincial scholar named Esprit Calvet fortunately discovered these remains in 1765 before they were buried. The principal vestiges of the dam are the keyways in the val­ley walls where the dam abutments were anchored. The shape and alignment of the key – ways, which extend somewhat above the level of the modern dam, reflect and reveal the curvature of the structure (Figure 6.26).

A recent study led to reconstitution of the dimensions and function of this Roman dam.[264] It is likely during the time of Augustus that the Romans built the dam in the nar­row gorge of the Peyrou to supply an aqueduct leading to the nearby Roman city of Glanum. This structure, the first known arch dam, is nearly 15 m high, 23.8 m wide at its crest, and has a radius of curvature of about 30 m. The dam is keyed into the nearly vertical rock walls of the valley at its two ends. It apparently is built of either two faces of quarried rock blocks with an impermeable fill, or perhaps a solid mass of mortared blocks with a watertight joint.

Romans and dam technologyFigure 6.25 The dam in the Baume valley, near Sant-Remy-de – Provence: the oldest known arch dam (from the reconstitution of Agusta-Boularot and Paillet, 1997). The water transported by the aqueduct is destined to supply a massive fountain at Glanum, perhaps a watering station for migrating herds. The aqueduct is 500 m long, with a slope of 3.2 m/km. The canal is 0.59 m wide, and 0.89 m deep.

Romans and dam technologyFigure 6.26 In the Baume valley, site of the Gorge of Peyrou, seen from the reservoir. The arrow shows the location of the keyway of the Roman dam, at the right extremity of the present-day dam (photo by the author).

To the south of Evora in Portugal there is another small arch dam: Monte Novo. It is less than 6 m high, but is probably of Roman heritage.60 The only other known exam­ple of an arch dam revealing Roman techniques is the one built at Dara (Anatolia) in the Byzantine period (Chapter 7).

The dams built for Nero on the Anio were expressly for the personal pleasure of an emperor. On the other hand, the dams that we describe now respond to economic needs; the provinces had to produce enough food to supply the Empire. In Spain, in North Africa, and as always in the Orient, irrigation was essential to the development of agri­culture.

Economic development of the provinces: dams for irrigation and industry

The abundance of water and water infrastructure in the city of Rome not only provides for essential needs, but also serves as a cultural background for the urban life and pleas­ures of Rome’s citizens. Water plays an equally important role in the economic devel­opment of the Roman provinces. We have already described the development of the water wheel as it appeared in all of the Empire. But water management and exploitation went much further than this. Water had to be removed from the deepest galleries of mines, and massive quantities of water were needed to obtain lead, silver, and gold from their ores; the remnants of such ore-washing installations have been found in many of the provinces. In addition, the textile industry relied upon a steady supply of water. There is also of course agriculture, for which irrigation is required to support plentiful yields in southern and eastern regions. It is in these provinces, where water is less abun­dant and often scarce, that there is the most plentiful archaeological evidence of water acquisition and use. The most spectacular evidence is that of the Roman dams construct­ed in Spain, North Africa, and the Orient. Before describing these projects, as well as projects other than dams, let us first introduce Roman dam-construction technology.

Basic Dimensions and Potential Restrictions

Every inch counts in a small house, so knowing exactly how many inches are required for each element is important. Dimensions for the integral parts of a house are listed here. The wall, floor and roof thicknesses listed are for the most standard type of construction—that which uses 2x lumber and half-inch plywood as the primary building materials. The greater the distance a rafter or joist needs to span, the thicker it and the roof or floor it comprises will need to be. A list of the most standard sizes for appliances and some considerably smaller options is also provided.

A house in Mendocino, CA

Span Chart

RAFTER SPAN RATINGS (for roofs with a pitch over 3 in 12):

SPECIES

2 x 6

2 x 8

2 x 10

(16’

’ o. c. / 24”

o. c.) (16” o. c. / 24” o. c.) (16” o. c. / 24” o. c.)

Spruce/Pine/Fir No. 2

8’3” / 6’9”

10’11” / 8’11”

13’11” / 11’5”

Southern Pine No. 2

9’10” / 8’0

” 12’11” / 10’7”

16’6” / 13’6”

Ponderosa Pine Sugar Pine

8’1” / 6’8”

10’9” / 8’9”

13’9” / 11’3”

FLOOR JOIST SPAN RATINGS:

SPECIES

2 x 8

2 x 10

2 x 12

(16”

d

d

^r

CNl

d

d

(16” o. c. / 24” o. c.)

(16” o. c. / 24” o. c.)

Dglas. Fir – Larch

13’1” / 11’3”

16’9” / 14’5”

20’4” / 17’6”

No. 2

Dglas. Fir – South

12’0” / 10’6”

15’3” / 13’4”

18’7” / 16’3”

No. 2

Ponderosa Pine/

11’4” / 9’3”

14’5” / 11’9”

17’7” / 14’4”

Sugar Pine No. 2

Design Criteria: Strength—10-psf dead load plus 40-psf live load Deflection—Limited to span in inches divided by 180 Source: National Lumber Manufacturers Association.

Appliance Sizes

Refrigerator Dimensions:

Avg. – 68 1/4” H x 29 3/4” W x 31 3/4” D Small – 34” H x 19” W x 20 1/2” D X-Small – 17” H x 19” W x 20 1/2” D Range Dimensions:

Avg. – 29 3/4” W x 46 1/2” H x 24”

Small – 21 3/8” W x 16 11/16” H x 20” D (R. V Style) Washer:

23 3/8” W x 33 1/4” H x 22 1/8” D Dryer:

23 3/8” W x 33 1/4” H x 22 1/8” D Water Heater:

6-Gallon – 17 3/4” H x 16” Diameter Tankless – 29 3/4” H x 18 1/4” W x 9” D 12-Gallon – 22 3/4” H x 16” Diameter Shower:

Avg. – 30” W x 80” H x 30” D Small – 24” W x 72” H x 24” D Tub:

Avg. – 60” W x 18” H x 30” D Small – 48” W x 24” H x 30” D Toilet:

Avg. – 20” W x 29” H x 30” D Small – 18” W x 29” H x 24” D

Anthropometric Data

More than 95% of U. S. adults are between 4’11” and 6’2” tall, with their shoes off. The average measures in at 5’7” (Architectural Graphic Standards). The remaining 5% have been excluded from the following data to keep it simple. If you or frequent visitors to your home are particularly tall or short, you may want to adjust accordingly. Ceiling heights and door widths have been calcu­lated to fit a 6’2” person comfortably. Reach areas have been calculated for an unaided, 4’11” tall person. Work surface heights have been determined by what will most comfortably fit someone at the 5’7” median.

Ceiling Height:

6’3” minimum

Door Height:

6’2” minimum

Door Width:

1’5” minimum

Bed Width:

2’8” minimum

Bed Length:

6’3” minimum

Counter Height:

2’8” minimum/

3’2”

maximum

Counter Depth:

1’4” minimum/

2’6”

maximum

Door Knob Height:

2’9” minimum/

3’4”

maximum

Lavatory Height:

2’6” minimum/

3’3”

maximum

Control Knob Height:

2’6” minimum/

6’0”

maximum

High Shelf:

6’2” maximum/

Desk/Table Height:

1’0” minimum/

2’7”

maximum

Desk/Table Depth:

1’0” minimum/

2’8”

maximum

Booth Width:

5’0” minimum/

6’6”

maximum

Sleeping Loft Height:

2’10” minimum

Leg Room Under Table:

1’4” minimum

Room or Hallway Width:

1’8” minimum

STEP6 Install the Siding Panels

Thanks to the work you did in the previous step, panel installation can go quickly, espe­cially when you have a good-size crew, as we did on this job. The first panel course is always the bottom-most course. Start against the cor­ner on one side of the house (preferably the back corner). Pull up the first panel, snap it into the starter strip, and slide the end of the panel under the corner trims top edge. Keep the panel seated in the starter strip as you drive nails into each stud. The nail heads should be ‘/в in. proud of the flange. Don’t drive nails at the edge of a slot or through the vinyl itself. If the prepunched slot is not cen­tered over a stud, lengthen the slot with a util­ity knife or a slot-punch tool.

Once the panel is nailed in position, check whether you can slide it back and forth manu­ally. If the panel won’t slide, find out where it’s getting hung up and fix the problem. After you’ve checked that the panel is free to move, you can, if you like, nail it fast near the mid­dle. Some builders prefer this technique, which encourages the panel to expand and contract equally in both directions.

The clearance between the end of a panel and the inside edges of the trim pieces depends on the temperature. If it’s over 90°F when you install the siding, leave the panel end about і in. away from the trim piece’s inside edge. If it’s less than 30°F, leave a good ^ in. of clear­ance at each end so there’s room for heat – induced expansion. For temperatures between these two extremes, gauge accordingly.

Cutting and lapping panels

When you come to an opening or reach the end of a wall, cut a panel to fit. Remember always to leave room for expansion. Cut pan­els to length with a table saw, as described ear­lier, using a circular saw with the blade in
backward. You can also crosscut with a radial – arm saw, a sliding compound-miter saw, a utility knife, a hacksaw, or even tinsnips. Plan each siding cut so that the cut ends are hidden in the corner posts, in the J-channel trim, or by the factory edge of an overlapping panel. Panels that join within a course should over­lap by at least 1 in.

You’ll notice that the nailing flange on a siding panel is cut back about 1 in. from the end of the panel. When two panels join each other in the same course, their nailing flanges should never butt together on the wall. When necessary, cut back the nailing flanges so that those in the same course are separated by at least 1 in. (see the illustration on p. 159).

It’s best to lap the panels between—not on—the studs. Try not to install pieces shorter than 3 ft. long, especially in high-wind areas. And don’t let the overlaps where siding panels meet stack over one another in subsequent courses. Rather, randomly separate these over­laps by two or three studs, so that you don’t create a staircase pattern. The pattern created

Подпись: гПодпись: Helping HandПодпись: Turn the blade backward! For smoother, shatter-free cuts in vinyl siding, use a fine-tooth paneling blade in a circular saw and turn the blade so that the teeth face backward. The same backward rule applies if you're using a chopsaw or radial- arm saw to cut vinyl siding.by the installed vinyl panels should be pleas­ing to the eye.

Pull each panel up snugly against the lock­ing hem of the previous panel, but don’t stretch it. Panels that were stretched tightly when they were installed (especially in warm weather) can tear when cold weather causes them to contract. Before moving on to the next row, make sure each panel is free to move back and forth horizontally.

As you proceed upward, measure down from the underside of the trusses to each row to ensure that the siding is remaining level around the building. Vinyl siding can stretch upward and easily become out of level. Some builders snap level chalklines every 2 ft. or so around the building to serve as reference points while they install rows of siding.

Installing panels around win­dows, doors, outlets, and vents

Strips of undersill trim must be installed beneath windowsills. This special trim covers the horizontal edge of a siding panel and locks
the panel in place. Cut each trim piece to fit between the two side J-channels, then nail it flush against the underside of the window. If the panel beneath a window needs to be notched more than I in. to fit, you must fur out or shim the undersill trim. The deeper the notch in the siding, the thicker the shim you’ll need. By furring out the undersill trim, you can prevent the surface of the siding from bowing in beneath the window. Try not to have any joints between panels located beneath or above windows.

To determine a notch’s location in the panel beneath a window, measure from the last piece of siding to the opening and mark it on the panel (don’t forget to add 1 in. for the overlap). For an accurate height measure­ment, lock a scrap of siding into the nail flange of the piece below, then slide the scrap against the window edge. Mark where the scrap hits the bottom of the window and transfer the mark to the panel you’re cutting. Finally, measure the length of the opening and transfer it to the siding, leaving / in. on each

STEP6 Install the Siding Panels

STEP6 Install the Siding PanelsCUTOUTS ARE CHAL­LENGING. This siding panel was notched to fit over a door and a window. It’s important to mea­sure carefully so that the cutout edges fit properly in the 3-channel around the doors and windows.